nta16

I too wondered about that, hence putting up the power band figures (from the 'Owner's Manual') but the 3k might just have been a number given rather than spot on and the lack of other information (plus OBD11 scan yet to be done). Also I put up the link to the 'Owner's Manual' for regen light/notice and perhaps any other lights/messages.

You mean old folk. 🤣 I don't know much about cars and mechanics but do have lots of experience of running them, if I can remember, and suffering from the (English) motor trade I always used to put to other MG and "classic" owners that it was a lot less expensive for them to learn from my many, many, mistakes. 🙃

Think of the engine as a giant air pump on wheels, run by fuel. Then the computer term GIGO, garbage in garbage out, but for diesel particularly SISO, so you want sufficient clean air (and fuel) going into, through and out of the engine and exhaust then the engine (and sensors) and car's computer are happy and engine more likely to perform well. Bunged up with muck and taking shallow breathes the engine is more wheezing along and and the engine, sensor and computer are less happy less able to perform well. Now there could be many other reasons why your engine and car might not be performing as well as it could or should but the basic starting points are as detailed before. Doesn't matter about verbal or paper details "a full service history" (I personally have yet to see a true full service on a modern car) or recent "service" or MoT pass, it's about the car's actual condition now.

If you're in 6th gear do I take it you have a two-wheel drive with manual gearbox? As above. See book for DPF info. Manufacturer' s claimed figures for new car under test conditions - 2.0 l/135 kW TDI engine - Octavia Combi MG6, DSG6 - Max. torque (Nm per rpm) - 380 at 1,750-3,000. (output (kW per rpm) 135 at 3,500-4,000 - manufacturer' s claimed figures for new car under test conditions)

The joys of owning such a modern car, you may possibly need to get several quotes from accident repair specialist or wherever they send the work to as it may all be about alignment. When you get quotes you might see why Capitol Newport didn't want to do or quote for the work. Or perhaps if you're lucky if you take it to someone with the correct level of scan tool it might just be a reset, it depends on how actually "soft" or hard your partner 'bumped' the car. There's a price for all these safety devices . . .

This is the bit that's more awkward to see and photo so angle of photo is important.

The clutch went again just after I had bought a new hood and booked in with an upholster to fit it (not cheap), I had just serviced it and had the next year's engine oil too, I had also booked a rolling road session as I had decided to run it on E5 or E0 higher octane petrol and was preparing to keep the car for at least another couple of years and drive it more - such is life. I expect you have seen the video my neighbour done of the Midget for his YT channel. I spent several small fortunes on "classic" and newer and new British (English) cars and sportscars and contributed a load to tax and the economies of this country and bits around the world, I could have run a small fleet of old MX-5s on what I spent on the Midget alone, I think I had done more than my bit. The Midgets were not even particularly good cars when new but it is the way they feel so tiny and light compared to later cars and the overweight monsters of today and you could have fun driving below the legal speed limits whereas today most cars are very boring below legal speed limits. At least I had the opportunity of having such cars. You could also vacuum the air out of the bags and seal them if you want. - https://www.continental-tyres.co.uk/b2c/tyre-knowledge/storing-tyres.html

Is that a typo at 4% as most show change at 3%. Also just going on moisture percentage is only taking one thing into consideration same as only considering changing coolant based on a hydrometer.

How things feel and how they actually are is often two different things hence Gerrycan's suggested test.

Yes but don't do it yourself have someone else do it with whatever timer. You'd want the engine and car fully warmed (oil temp, not coolant temp) 90C and be on a level straight road. You can do it in whatever gears are comfortable to go from 50 to 70 and you can get figures to compare with. The rest of the car has to be in reasonable condition too, road and weather colds could also make a difference - don't be too fused about getting a too near match to any figures just use as a guide.

Hi, welcome Emilie, you put you have a 2011 Fabia but more info is required even after I ask a Moderator to move your thread to the 'Skoda Fabia Mk II Discussion for the Mk2 Skoda Fabia from 2007-2015' forum'. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/113-skoda-fabia-mk-ii/ As Ken has put a suitable level scan tool will need to be plugged it to help with (not necessarily exactly pinpoint) the diagnostics because these car's computer systems are so complicated if old-fashioned diagnostics can't get to the answer. The turbo change may be relevant, or it may not. The type and size of your engine (better still engine code, on the car or in your V5C) and model of your Fabia along with other information will help, more details here. -

Rubber brake flexi-hoses should be good if made by a good and reputable company and bought from a good reliable source. If you are unsure about the present ones fitted to the car, or they have cracks, then replacing them is a good idea. Fitting Aeroquip type flexi-hoses is not necessary on a road car unless you do not trust the supply of rubber made ones and/or you want the hoses on the car for many years with less concern about them but you still need to check them. I fitted them to my (road only, the photo was from a closed track charity day) MG Midget as soon as I got it because of the ****-poor rubbish rubber that was around at the time in other parts, they're still on the car 15 years later. Check your discs and pads (shoes) for wear and if they will be too worn before the next intended service then replace them now. One of the reason's I sold the Midget was because the wrong type of rubber O-rings were supplied to the manufacturer of the expensive sports clutch concentric slave cylinder so it failed within a couple of years which meant removing the engine to get it out - and hard though it is to believe unless you have my luck with cars the replacement O-rings were also wrong so the unit failed again 18 months later. Up to the first failure 20,000 units had been sold in 20 years without issue then mine was the second they had heard of when I drove over to their offices and manufacturing site. I hope you have been able to store the summer tyres correctly as they still age regardless of if they are actually used, stored correctly should be a problem though. Good luck.

OBD11 should give good info if it covers your model (I've no idea of contract details) but do not get too carried away with any codes it gives or doesn't, it a diagnostics tool and often only gives pointers rather than answers. As I put before as service nowadays is often just an engine oil and filter change and no more, even just an engine service is more than that let alone the whole car. The engine is not the most important system, component or part on the car the engine can chug along even if not in good condition. Brakes, steering, suspension (all three including tyres), important electrics are more important. As has been put changing the air filter if required and cleaning the air way as much as possible can make a big difference, if the engine isn't breathing well it won't go as well as it could or should, going up a steep hill fast would require good breathing. In my experience it makes a big difference, mainly the cleaning additive package will help especially for you now. When I used it instead of getting the usual black cloud of **** on hard acceleration off a roundabout right turn I got grey clouds of ****. I would recommend you use two tankfuls, one before and during and one after service and/or MoT times and every now and then or every third or fourth fill if you want. The above might save you having to do further cleaning for air and fuel other sensors. If the car has been sitting around I always advise checking the state of the battery and despite it being driven now I would checked the battery is fully charged a few hours after the car has been parked up, allowing for the car's computer systems to be at rest as much as possibly about 12.6V is fully charged. If not I would use an appropriate battery charger and maintainer to fully charge the battery as a even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough the battery can still be too low in charge for the car's computer and this can cause all sorts of unexpected problems even before the car starts to put up warning messages and lights. Do that straight away with a reliable pressure gauge and at the same time have look at how the tyres are and if all or some of the tyres are the same make, model and age. Getting the tyres and tyre pressure right will make a difference to braking, steering, suspension ride and comfort. Little point having a VRS if it's not on appropriate tyres in reasonable condition. Have a read of the Owner's Manual to see what's what with your car, if you read it and refer to it, for even what should be simple jobs, you will know more about your car than many long term owners and some at Dealerships and garages. Free VWSkoda PDF downloads from here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Update portal. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ (admitted to) Recall campaigns. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns 👍 If I was you I'd take up this kind offer HTH.

Might just need a full and proper service (of the whole car) and internal clean of air and fuel to the engine, engine oil & filter, and a few blowout runs with a couple of tanks of V-Power, depends on it's previous history and use. Have you plugged in a suitable level scan tool to see what shows up, though do not just rely on that. More details are required (as bigjohn has posted).

Other than the silicone brake fluid (DOT 5) when to replace the fluid depends on a number of variations so car manufacturers will have different ideas of when the brake fluid should be changed, at a mileage or time interval, neither will necessarily be very accurate possibly very early or even should have been sooner but that's less likely given the car manufactures caution. You can get various testers to tell you how much water is in the brake fluid at the place you test, such as the reservoir, and some will rely on just that and may not change the fluid for years others do not even bother to check and leave the fluid in for many years. For your mountain roads personally I would put in a good quality brake fluid about every two years but check it every six months as part of a shorter 6-month service. Having had so many ****-poor made modern parts for my "classics" over decades, including lots with rubber and the reason I no longer have my last "classic" I would advise keeping good quality older parts. Not always of course if they are beyond good serviceable and functioning life or for new parts that (should be, but not always are) that will give improvement. For the front calipers if they are working fine why risk putting modern O-rings and other parts on them, I would leave well alone. The front brake squeal is something you can get even with fitting new pads and discs and despite fitting new ant-squeal shims or pads so if your brake discs and pads are still in good condition do not replace them. Cleaning and lubricating the moving areas of the calipers and pads might even stop the occasional squealing you get now. As put before tyres condition, wear and age can make a big difference to the braking (steering, suspension, road holding, ride comfort and noise) more so often than going for fashionable sexy types of brake discs (and perhaps unsuitable fashionable sexy types of pads though some might be good for mountain use).

Fully recharge the battery with a charger that can go low and slow as possible, 2 or 3 amp charging better than 4 or 6 amp but will take a lot longer. The day after the full charging check the battery for (state of) charge and if possible state of health, a poor battery could hinder your recommissioning whereas a good battery in good state of charge and health will possibly speed up recommissioning and help with keeping the whole car going well.

Absolutely leave them be. If you are replacing the flexi-hose do make sure the new ones are of good quality if they are rubber. For the same reason replacing rubber O-rings with new poor quality rubber O-rings would be a backwards step. When replacing the brake fluid also flush a good amount of fresh new brake fluid through the whole system until it comes out thoroughly clean at all exit points. Brake fluid is not expensive so buy extra for the flushing. Once the system is empty you might want to clean the inside of the reservoir that way it is easier to see any discolouration at that point. Clean the rear drums and shoes and adjusting the rear brakes as required, if the 14% difference is across the axle just clean, lubricate and adjustment could reduce any difference of one side to the other. Tend to handbrake as required. Distance is not a good gauge of brake wear as it depends so much on the brake use required or given by the driver, 10km of city driving might require a lot more braking than 100km of highway, if you are some where with lots of steep hills with lots of bends and slow traffic plus some driver's use the brakes more and harder than others. Always remember the tyres are a big element of brakes (and steering and suspension).

Well done. The plugs would have been the very major contributor and Redex was redundant when using the Tesco Momentum. I'm not sure any garages do a full car service any more, engine oil and filter change and visual inspection of some other stuff is about it. You could yourself change the engine air filter and if required clean anything else engine air or fuel related. That just the engine of course, which isn't the most important component or system on the car. The brakes, steering and suspension (all three include tyres) and safety electrics are of more priority, as you've already found the engine can chug along even in a quite poor state and the world doesn't fall apart (only your wallet with all those petrol receipts). I'd not think too much about where all that petrol went for now remain on a positive and see if the service brings any further improvement in MPG but don't expect too much unless your brakes were binding or you're running your tyres under-inflated. Given your plugs gaps I'd not be too surprised at anything the service turns up but also given your current MPG hopefully it won't be too much. Good luck.

Barry, hi, welcome. You might be better posting, and looking, in the relevant Octavia section, 2013 appears to be both Mk2 and Mk3 otherwise I'd 'Report' your post to be moved to one of them. You might need to expand on what you mean or happened when it stopped on you and wouldn't start, it's not Twitter or Facebook with limited space for a post. Good luck.

Not only a self-confessed engineering expert, with all the arrogance of a surgeon but without the additional extensive education and training and possibly looks, now an expert in metal health, and wholesale and resale of car batteries, is there no end to your talents (except diplomacy obviously). I'm not the one fitting the battery but I thank you for taking your valuable time to me give your opinion despite not fully reading what I'd put, I value your advice, to different levels at different times. If only your talent of giving ultra fast solutions, none wrong by your own admission either, could have be turned towards world hunger, poverty and cancer we'd be rid of them by now. It's not just you, but all of us, that are blessed by your presence. Next time I personally want to do anything I will think what would sepulchrave tell me to do and better still if possible run it by you beforehand.

That looks like it will outlast the car. Personally even though it's new I'd fully charge it with an appropriate battery charger (and maintainer) before fitting it to the car, hopefully that wouldn't take long. Read and follow the instructions in the 'Owner's Manual' for replacing the battery, check for resets that might be required, even if listed not all seem to be needed.

It's a matter of fashion over function now. Previously 15" wheels would be on big heavy (for the time) saloons, or sportscars, I know even very small cars now are big and overweight (particularly VW) but many/most have oversized wheels for fashion only. Depends what you're used to and when you were young and how much you value fashion or want to have bigger wheels than your neighbours, 70% profile tyres used to low profile. Some clubman racers are going back to smaller wheels for the track so maybe in the future the fashion will go to smaller tyres and wheels and big wheels and tyres will look so old fashioned. Remember the three spoke alloys wheels. 🙂

Hi, welcome, You'd probably be better posting in the relevant model section, could ask to transfer this thread to that section but you've not put what model you have and engine. Just looked you up and see it's an Octavia so I'll 'Report' the post and ask if it can be moved, to save duplicate threads, to Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020). - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-2020/ You could add Octavia to your name plate too to save confusion if you post in other sections later. Good luck. ETA: wow that was a quick transfer, well done Moderator.

You must have the music up loud, or used to the sound of diesel engines. 😄 Get my wife's 1.2 90 on its power band it goes well with one or two in the car but we've never had 55mpg that I know of.

Good call, I didn't think of that my mind was stuck on the Amsoil additive.