nta16

Those examples do not seem to have the oil at any special offer on price and are in different currencies. Mustafa and everyone else can decide on what oil and at what cost and frequency of the changing the oils they want, to repeat, mine was just a suggestion to be accepted or rejected. The cost of the oil is not that high if the Red Line is kept in for a longer time than a less expensive oil, say the Red Line is £30 a bottle but is kept twice as long as another lesser oil at £15 a bottle, then the Red Line is better value. At even a cost of £90 the cost is not that high on the overall costs of a car that is kept for enjoyment or sentimental reasons rather than regular required use. Over here at least maintaining a 20+ year old car to above legal or necessary requirements would not probably make economic sense, though this might have changed a bit given the covid/chips situation of the last few years where used car prices have gone silly high. You already spend much more than you need to on your Felicia but you have different priorities and you are happy with the gearbox oil you use which is good, I am not trying to, and how could I (?), force you or Mustafa to do anything and I do not have any interests in any oil companies so I do not benefit or lose anything from whatever oils (or anything else) you buy or use. Others with much older and more basic and simple engineered cars have said they have found a benefit to using Red Line gearbox oils and these are "classic" car owners notorious for not wanting to pay too much, or pay much full stop (unless it is cosmetic bling often) so they must find some benefit. Some will tell you that any oil that meets the gearbox requirements is good enough so you should always buy the cheapest oil available and they have a good point depending on your expectations - so that advice would be to buy the cheapest correct spec oil available, which I would guess is not MOTUL MOTYLGEAR or Red Line but either or both could still be the best value depending on your expectations.

Sorry, I wasn't clear, that was my point that IIRC it's not silicone, I struggle to read anything so safety sheets are beyond me I was just going on my wobbly memory. People say about silicone spray on paintwork but I can't remember having any issues on a car that was resprayed but perhaps if the silicone spray is fresh to when the paintwork is being done, I don't know, just nice to has one can of a good penetrating/ releasing fluid and general lubricant than half a dozen taking up space and running out halfway through a job as Sod's Law always applies. I've not tried GT85 on rubber seals just because it's a spray and our cars are always outside, no garage, and even spraying on to a cloth has some spray going elsewhere, plus sprays like this are too thin and fiddly and add too much excess farting about to whatever farting about is being done on the car. At the risk of magicking up my troll, for rubber door and other seals I apply AutoGlym Bumper & Trim Gel or silicone oil to a 35mm cube of old clean sponge and the on to the seal. Having put that I no longer fart about cleaning and maintaining the Fabia anywhere near as much as I used to fart about with cars in the past, not that I ever done it for the 'joy' (?!!?) of such stuck, good luck to those that enough such things but it wasn't really for me other than necessity.

If you wanted you could perhaps use an appropriate battery charger and maintainer to restore the battery now and when required as a preventative measure to stop the battery getting too low in the future, then you could perhaps get many more months or perhaps even a year or more out of it. Or to get a few more months out of it so that you can deal with the VW battery b*ll*cks and farting about in the better weather and when you have the Fabia sorted.

If you get away from Amazon and consider local suppliers you can sometimes find offers and better value and possibly keep revenue profits and taxes more locally. You have made assumptions about priorities and values. Mustafa values his Felicia, and if sensible values himself and his time a lot more than any car Felicia or "super" or "hyper" car. Motul and Mannol may well do a gearbox oil of a quality similar enough to the Red Line oil for use in a Felicia, as I put I do not know what is available to Mustafa but if I remember correctly Mustafa's Felicia is a cherished car that has low use and not used as a daily use car. Red Line is used by many owners of old 1950s British cars and those certainly are not "supercars" in value or engineering. The idea of the use is to improve the operation of the gearbox and protect it as wide as possible for as long as possible, do the change better and less often than with an oil not as good, and save you're valuable time. The Red Line oils appeal to American owners of ordinary old cars of quite modest values because I would guess the oils are sold at a lower cost in America but are still used in the UK because we are used to higher prices for oils generally. The Red Line was just a suggestion, I would normally use and recommend an English oil blenders' products but I do not remember Mustafa living in the UK, he you and every one can use whichever oil they feel is best, as I put many would not even bother to change the oil even at 60,000km.

The GT85 is PTFE and fine on plastics and rubber seals but I tend to use silicone on rubber seals including AutoGlym Bumper & Trim Gel or silicone oil as in photo below. Some feel silicone should be kept away from paintwork. Have a look on the can of GT85 you'll see it's one of the products from the WD-40 Company, originally a British company GT85 but like many swallowed up by the large invasive American companies, I used to use it on my pushbikes in the 1980s.

As the driver car owner you should teach your daughter basic driver maintenance like check the brake fluid (level and colour), tyres (condition, tread depth), battery (condition of clamps and are secure, charge), etc., etc.. This will empower her. Once she knows how to do these things she may well decide still to leave the jobs to you but at least she'll know and understand about these things and how to do them if required. My wife went to a night class course of basic car maintenance in the 1980s so that she knew about basic maintenance herself but has always left such stuff to me as she's not so stupid as to be messing and farting about with cars but if I hadn't been around she could do it herself and probably better and certainly with better humour.

Unfortunately you let your existing battery get to low for too long and the trickle charge was too little too late but the good side is that you now have this experience and knowledge and can prevent this happening to the new battery by using an appropriate battery recharger and maintainer in time when required before the new battery gets too low for too long. I think AGM batteries have additional insulation underneath compared to EFB but I fitted an AGM without to my wife's 2015 Fabia regardless as she often does very short journeys (2miles). If you don't use the star/stop much, or even if you did, you could go back to EFB if you want, and avoid 'coding' - see varooom's guide. This is the Varta 096 EFB from Tayna, not a lot less cost to AGM - N70 VARTA START-STOP EFB CAR BATTERY 12V 70AH (570500076) TYPE 096 - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/n70/ Don't wait for the warning lights and messages rather recharge the battery before it gets that low with an appropriate battery charger and maintainer and then your replacement EFB could last even longer than the current one. Check your 'Owner's Manual' for disconnecting/reconnecting the battery it's a lot easier and straightforward than many think (those that haven't referred to the 'Owner's Manual') and check the 'Owner's Manual' for advice on charging the battery. Free PDF downloads are available from VWSkoda from this link.- https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Check if your existing OBDEleven does battery 'coding', my wife's battery was 'coded' by a member from here using an OBDEleven but I don't know what level it was. Perhaps there might be someone near you if you need them map of VCDS owners. - https://tinyurl.com/yn6mmtyk.

3 and 5 years is for the universal mineral oil and 5 to 7 years (or more) for the Red Line full-synthetic oils - or any similar equivalent oils. I do not know what oils are local or reasonably available and priced to Mustafa. In the USA, where Red Line are, all oils seem lower priced and if you saw how much is spilled from old huge American cars you would realise they expect low priced oil products.

Thanks Bob. I've never had to use as old English cars usually made their oil leaks easy to find and I used a coolant that help find and diagnosis (and cause) leaks easier. From this eBay seller- "To use simply empty the full contents of the dye bottle into the cooling system. Then start the engine and run for 20 minutes at 2000 rpm. Switch the engine off and inspect the area with an ultra violet light for any leaks or signs of the dye." - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266152538754 This video seems OK. -

Another reason to keep it in 5 to 7 years (or more) or 60,000 km. As it is American in comes in US Quart or US Gallon bottles and it certainly is not cheap. It may be less expensive to buy it from a local motor racing supplier or some such place and it might even be less expensive to buy a US gallon bottle rather than 3 quart bottles depending on the supplier, stock and offers at the time.

You can also get similar for oil and a/c, last time I looked plenty of kits on eBay (I never look on Amazon) and I went to Ring Automotive direct for hyperlinks though the quantities they listed weren't over clear to me. I'm not sure how carefully you have to be with VW's silly coolants (G numbers and descriptions) so check with Ring or kit supplier unless you're going direct to the (chemical?) company product producer. Ring Dyes - https://www.ringautomotive.com/en/workshop-leak-detection

MTL is 75w80 (GL-4) MT-85 is 75w85 (GL-4) MT90 is 75w90 GL-4 From their catalogue - "Red Line formulates full-synthetic oils and advanced additives using the world’s finest base stocks. Rather than cutting costs by blending in petroleum products, Red Line’s high-performance oils use superior PAO and ester base stocks that provide extreme stability at high temperatures and superior film strength at lower viscosities where more power can be produced." https://www.redlineoil.com/gear-oil-for-manual-transmissions

Thanks but do bear in mind that is just my opinion. Personally I'd use something like Redline and do a thorough changes at 5 to 7 years or 60,000km, whichever is the sooner. Good luck.

If they're a Dealership don't they just plug in a Dealership level bi-directional scan tool and just try to 'actuate' the boot lock and work back from there as diagnosis(?). Someone on the list might have a scan tool capable of doing this test for less than £100 I'd have thought. I'm more used to cars where the boot lock is just mechanical but now you have also the electric and computer sides to consider. You can use your diagnostic ears to see if you can hear what's happening or not at the boot lock area and with the boot open you can do a visual check on the lock, sometimes these actions can help with repair or diagnosis before more expensive machinery is required. Best of luck, let us know how you get on.

If it's not too late - or for other viewers. - If it's a 'coding' thing then you might have more luck asking in the Diagnostics & VCDS section, as below. Presumably the other side is wired up with a bulb in it(?). https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/

Good that you've got one, remind your daughter to read the instructions on the can (hold can upright, shake well before use) and to always replace the cap and straw on to the can (good to learn from the mistakes of others). I find with folding the mirrors in best is a swift movement but you don't need to be trying to knock the car sideways, a very occasional spray of GT85 and she should find the mirrors fold easily enough. The door mirrors on my wife's car are very rarely folded in so when I have I've forgotten the passenger side until I'm sat in the car.

They were three cans for £10 at Wilco. And I have paid £2 a can but can't remember from where, I got two cans, gave one away to a neighbour and with the other I forgot to put the cap back on and it had just about emptied itself being wedged in the side of a plastic box I was using to transport the items I needed to do a little job somewhere as a favour to a mate, if only I'd let him pack away the stuff I could have blamed him. 😄

Try cleaning the mirror housings first particularly underneath and when they're pushed in clean any exposed bits of the plastic arm. Once clean or at least free from grit and debris spray with GT85 (better in all things than WD-40 Multi-Use) contains PTFE and smells nice, useful for lots of things on the car and home and garage. - https://gt85.co.uk/

Thefeliciahacker has already put 2 years is fine and "maybe extend it to 3 years in order to cover some more distance". My opinion is you can change the oil at anytime to your preference or convenience at or between 3 and 5 years.

I would use common sense and previous experience of driving the vehicle - or I could use stated mph per 1,000 rpm per gear. It's my understanding that not everyone sees all of them and I only started using the prefix and its reinforcement to try to keep my troll away a bit and as someone else thought my posts appeared too authoritative I thought it best to warn those that might not know or realise. As you've asked politely, despite your current and previous pedentry (careful Keith there's a deliberate trap and wind-up there 😉 ) I will edit the post, and drop the reinforcing.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yeah "contaminants" was used out of habit and for those with English as a second (or more) language I didn't think my more usual crud, debris, grit, ****, muck was appropriate but what is the best word to use? As the exiting oil doesn't come out after many years of use as fresh oil but with the additives worn, oxidised and perhaps bits of metal what to call that in one simple word? Oils have improved in the last 20 years let alone from the 1960s and 1970s but IIRC (I didn't with the change interval) we've already been through alternative oils, if available to Mustafa, in a previous thread.

Well it's off the net so could be a period typo and "Hypoid" shouldn't be there or it might just be a fake altogether. ETA: I'll remove it to avoid confusion on the subject.

@varooom Yes thanks. I didn't think they touched the battery more that they may have (or may not have needed to) perform some sort of error, sorry improvement, of the excellent German(?) engineering IT programming. Just because my troll and others think I'm a total idiot don't think that I necessary am (though I might be and am deluding myself but I'm not sure I've ever completed anything including being an idiot). If you can give me access to TPI 2050304 I'd be interested to see what that is. I'm not sure if my wife's car's BCM control unit was reprogramed or not, it's her car (of choice, though she regrets it somewhat now) not mine so I only get given the bits to deal with that she'd sooner not, despite having me for a life (so far) partner she's not stupid and has seen how much you (or one, if posh) can suffer with and from the (UK) motor trade (and personally knowing friends and acquaintances in the English motor trade, and IT) .

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. As far as I know or can remember we do not normally see such on gear oils here. Normally the oil company or blender will refer you to the car manufacturers' servicing guides. Compared to America the UK and Europe are the 'Wild West' when it comes to oil changes but we might not be so wedded to oil as the Americans who are used to very low prices and using it as if it's going out of fashion and taking steps to secure it's cheap availability to them in the same way very wealthy countries without too much water "help" countries with fertile ground or China helps countries with monetary loans and building infrastructures at cost and interest to those countries for what China wants (to take) from them. a bit like the British and other Empires before them. ☺️ MG Bs specified gearbox oil changes at 24,000 miles or 24 months whichever was the sooner, but they used engine oil in the gearboxes which I would suggest was less robust in that use than a gear oil. Like the BBC (British Broadcasting Corporation) I am here to Inform, educate, entertain, but this is the internet so what can you trust and believe. 🙃 All I can say is (if I am being truthful (?)) - I am not in or part of the motor trade, so take or leave as much as you want from whatever I post or part of of a post I put up. ETA: removed BL Technical Service Bulletin to keep more to subject.

toot, I get what you're saying, just how official or proper things are done, or not done, my wife got some sort of message, neither of us can remember what or how, to take her car to the Dealership on a special one off visit (nearly two month before the service) for something that I recorded on my record as a "Battery Recall". What the exact term or wording was at the time, whether the communication was from the local Dealership or Skoda UK, I don't remember, and don't have records or evidence other than the digital record shows "Recall 97CU". We might not agree on oversized wheels and tyres or silly VW oil spec but we will agree on the negative side of the UK motor trade as I've had the equivalent a whole group of poorly and badly treated customers. There was some sort of recall (Recall?) related to something related to batteries at some point, if it relates BlueTigger's daughter's car I don't know but I'd check in case it's required as at least it should be free. And of course it relates to my obsession of car batteries in VWSkodas. ☺️ More relates there than the signage changes from the Marriage Guidance Council.