nta16

Just bear in mind a petrol Mk3 Monte Carlo might be quite a bit different to a Mk1 TDI VRS whether 1 or 1.2. Be interesting to read how the Mk3s compare with the Mk1 (allowing for age/mileage wear/tear/abuse differences. Good luck again.

If you want not to be taking your work home surely you would be looking at getting a Japanese car with a proper Japanese engine, possibly older than 2016 to outlast a 2016 Fabia Mk3 with a lot less hassle. If not as I put other might contribute here or more information in other threads. With just two people in the car my wife's Mk3 1.2 90 engine goes well enough though we do not get the miles-per-gallon others say they get, but it is a petrol engine, so. Good luck and if no one else already has perhaps you could report back on your finding between the 1.0, 3-pot and 1.2 4-pot.

Big figures always look impressive but how reliable and long-lasting and how much servicing, maintenance and repairs are required. The Japanese tend to be better at smaller items generally, and often cars, Americans think 2.0 litres is a small engine, 1 litre would be a starter motor. 😄

All good advice. Good point, you'd not be buying the 3-cylinder 110 as just as a town runabout or glorified shopping trolley but it is pushed more and possibly be pushed more depending on the driver and car's use and going from a diesel and VRS. My wife's 1.2, 4-cylinder, 90 has far from the sweetest engine bay noises I've heard and I'm used to 1960s and 1970s British Leyland products, I think I'd be too fragile for a VW 3-cylinder. Plus modern cars are so heavy in themselves, when I've driven my wife's Fabia with three passengers there's a very noticeable difference to just driver and one passenger but that's with 90 engine and standard (not-so-robust) SE suspension (front at least) on 15" wheels (14" wheels and tyres might have be better). Plenty of threads here about the 1.2 TSI 110 in Mk3s and some on 1.0, 3-cylinder and hopefully others might be along with their input.

From what I can see from all the posts on here the Mk1 and Mk2s seem more robust generally than my wife's Mk3 at least, if I was you I'd look for a decent Mk2 against a Mk3. You'd want, as with any marque or model, to test drive a few decent (driving not looks) examples of a Mk3 to see how it stacks up, also going from the black world of diesels (my wife's previous car was a diesel) to petrol will also bring differences. With a 1.0 three compared to a four 1.2 I'd always go for the 1.2 four unless I only used the car round town or glorified shopping trolley but hopefully @toot will be by and post all the info. I've had a few 3-cylinder cars so I'm all for them if they're good but they weren't VW engines and mostly two seaters. With the turbo (and direct injection) its pushing an engine so going from 90 to 110 is an increase and to then drop the capacity is a further push. I'm not sure of the differences to 2017 cars, again @toot will know the details.

Llyod, I replaced both incandescent DRL bulbs on my wife's car and just that was a fiddle so I'm not sure how you'd get to the other bulbs from there. Removing the whole headlight unit I'd wonder about alignment when removing/refitting, but I could be wrong. I noticed one DRL light wasn't as bright as the other but Sod's Law it was a bulb I'd run out of and as I don't drive the car usually I forgot about it, a week later the car's computer noticed and threw up a warning. The bulb I took out by then was the blackest I'd ever seen, whether that was caused by the bulb or the car's wiring, connection or computer I don't know. Of the two DRL bulbs I replaced one was original factory the other wasn't, which was which I forget now so whether one of these bulbs going is another VWSkoda German engineering thing I don't know. I'm not sure just putting in one LED one side is a good idea generally even for testing but again I might be wrong. Have a look at Classic Car LEDs for reliable good quality LEDs. - https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/ Yes please do tell us how you get on.

Good news, so you are two steps closer. The VWSkoda 'Owner's Manual' aren't the best but it does make sense to have the aeration in the bit about air-con. My wife would say you had a "man-look". 😉 In your working life were you never told to RtFM, or like the electricians we employed had no experience of doing so, in the 'Index' 'Sliding/tilting roof' which takes you to 'Electric sliding/tilting roof', on to 'Electric sliding/tilting roof with solar cells', on to 'Climatronic (automatic air conditioning system)'. As with many things not a push one button and it's done and good practice for VCDS use. 😄 More good news for you, I know nothing with VCDS so can't help(?) with it's use but there are plenty here that do and are happy to help so do check with them before using the system for guidance. As always, and for viewers that don't understand old men's' banter, I hope you get things sorted to your satisfaction (or better), cheers.

If you look at the tiresize calculator with 225/45/17 then click on the "Alternate Tyre Sizes" tab for "16" you will get a list of tyres in green and how near they are in size as a percentage difference. Now you need to check the availability, range and price of the sizes offered to see what's actually available and at what prices. 225/50/16 - 205/55/16 Then of course you might be with a silly insurance provider that takes exception to you changing the wheels and tyres from the size the car left the factory with, as has been cover in various other threads. Plenty of insurers don't worry about such things but if you have a cheap policy and/or with a very general family type car provider they might.

Different places have different databases, no databases are 100% accurate in my experience, Halfords seem to go their own way with batteries size numbers. Tayna is the supplier I've used a few times - they do ask you to check and confirm your requirements. Do not assume that the battery fitted to the vehicle is correct unless it's a factory fit. Even then then perhaps it could be improved on, perhaps larger battery hence the tray space or the tray allows for diesel/auto battery in a petrol vehicle. IIRC(?) companies like Toyota (unlike VWSkoda) give battery specifications sometimes in the 'Owner's Manual' / 'Driver's Handbook' so look there too if the paper printed copy is available. https://www.tayna.co.uk/Toyota-RAV_4-Car-Battery

Hi, welcome. Why do you need to change the bulbs? Have a look at your 'Owner's Manual' for how to change the bulbs, and lots more useful information. If you don't have the paper printed copy you can download for free a pdf copy from Skoda at this link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

With some insurers and brokers yes but possibly not with others, note the post from Adrian Flux. If you get your insurance through one of the comparison sites that's usually fine for ordinary cars or vanilla models but often specialist insurers or brokers can offer more suitable policies for vehicles that are not ordinary or vanilla models and sometimes the premiums can work out lower (or much lower). For 3 decades I had "classics" (over-priced, over-priced old cars) and low volume manufacture sportscars and the specialist insurance providers provided very wide range cover at very reasonable premiums and most of these cars were also daily use cars and for work, no garage or mileage limits, fully comp, UK & Europe breakdown cover included in many policies. My last "classic" was modified some insurers didn't like that but the one I was with just wanted the modifications listed, premiums remained the same. Look around someone wants your business at a reasonable premium -unless you have high risk factors.

Varta, Yuasa, Bosch (made by Varta), Duracell, Endoroline. If you are changing the battery type (standard / EFB / AGM) or significant change to Ah you will need to 'code' the battery in, start-stop cars need EFB or AGM batteries. https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/096/tech/

Can't you input the data manually (or wotever the correct word is) as you can with VCDS and I presume (always dangerous) other, as varooom explains, for VCDS as an example. - VCDS How to adapt a new battery.pdf If it stopped when battery wasn't 'coded' perhaps it might start again when your present battery is 'coded' correctly but of course it might have been just a coincidence that it stopped operating at that time or something in the programming of Carista or VW so you would need a scan tool with the capability to deal with this specific item. I don't know, is Carista one of the 1-click coding machines that @Gizmo says can "also change things that are totally unnecessary and WILL cause you a world of pain when something totally unconnected now no longer works!" ? Having learnt to drive in the 1970s I don't expect to be able to press one button to sort things, I prepare the car to drive it before I even get into the car let alone turn the ignition or engine on, I don't expect a button(s) in the car to do everything for me (as some modern drivers seem to believe), same with diagnostic tools, I expect you're the same. Have you checked the 'Owner's Manual' (if it's in there) about the solar panel in the sunroof not driving the interior cooling fan or opening a thread about it not working as it could be a totally separate issue to the battery non-'coding'.

Totally agree, you need to do your research and decide to what level and depth you will want to go to interfere with things. We are know the joys or otherwise of computer programs, not even the great VAG always get the stuff right, first few attempts, I think Ross Tech have updates, any machine you'd want to keep up to date in the hope the latest updates sort things previously not sorted. The Yanks have decades of experience but I expect the Chinese were 'given' the programs from VAG and some possibly improved on them others shoddy and don't care as is the way with the Chinese 'borrowing' and manufacturing. As I put it depends on the level and width of what you want to do. As always buyer beware, if you want security go with what's considered best at the time. ETA: the machines, including VCDS, can be use to see information for diagnostics, without necessarily interfering with anything, bit like look but don't touch, other than perhaps clear DTCs.

Depends how much fiddling about with the factory settings on the car you want to do but there are alternatives to VCDS which are much better presented and much easier to use without having to learn the built up legacy system - unless that's your sort of thing, made it more exclusive and rewarding. There's a whole very wide range of scan tools that can cover VW products (and much, much more) with a wide variety of what you get on the machine and want contracted with them, also offering help, updates and even community. For deepest widest range of fiddling with just VWs, if that's your thing, then probably the VCDS is the most cost effective otherwise just look at the scan tools (or code readers if that's all you're after), obviously being a tiny island the costs in the UK are higher than elsewhere but they don't get the very interesting weather we do. I'll get me coat . . .

No photo just a small, er, is it icon, of of a photo and massive route stream of a hyperlink, 12 wide lines deep on my monitor. I've no idea with "smart" phones or devices do but I just drag or choose files... to attach (and sometimes Insert into the post) photos from PC file, that seem to put it to this site. HTH. - . -

It can depend on how much powder is used and how well it is mixed as to how well it is dissolved. I do not suppose it really matters but I prefer to keep with the same coolant all the time and not mix previous and future different ones, same if using any additive. I've seem gloopy mixed coloured messes come out of "classic" (over-priced and over valued old) cars' cooling/heating systems, I do not know why the mixing of similar coolants should do this other than the coolants used were not similar but these are usually not from cars that have regular changes of coolant and/or thorough flushing and/or cleaning of the cooling/heating systems.

I'd go Tesco, and drive as quick as I could (which isn't law-breaking fast) before the fuel is empty in the car's tank, the nearer to empty the quicker you need to drive to the next Tescos, Shell, Esso refill. The number of times I had to explain this to my wife when she pointed out the car was low on petrol, below half-tank, and she never understood, To be fair a full tank was less than 6 gallons, all the more reason to get to the refills quicker.

If I'm driving it's silence, passenger perhaps Radio 4, if my wife is driving and I'm not there it'll be la-la music all the time. Quite a few of my vehicles didn't have a radio or it wasn't worth turning it on. I can't stand getting into someone's car and the radio or music is never off but if I'm not paying for the fuel I put up with it or if I know them ask if they want to turn it off.

My wife is much better than me at identifying noises (from all the faults we had repeat on the cars) and locating the noises but she's not stupid and won't sit in a car just listen for noises and very wisely always disappeared promptly if I was ever doing anything other than driving a car. Anyway you're old enough to know what to do about car noises - turn up the stereo radio. 😄 Are you sure it's no your hearing aid rattling in your ear. ETA: I was thinking of your son-in-law for the sound equipment.

David, hi, welcome. Your link doesn't work for me but If I understand correctly you want to remove the whole mirror unit. I've never done it but yes it'll be door card off and unplug electrics. I've never taken the door card off but I think I've seen it written that it's not difficult (famous last words) and there may be more info on that. Personally I've always found any job involving removing and putting back bits of plastics and perhaps cardboard or more plastic to be much more awkward and time consuming than many blasé reports or instructions make out but anything to do with cars that's not driving I start with the "wrong" attitude as I loathe doing anything with cars other than driving them and that's only to get me from A to B now. If you get the door car off I think (don't know) the mirror should be easy (unless like me you find little plastic wire connectors an absolute fiddle and fart to separate). The vandal should be made to do this job for you properly and I think that would be a good punishment, as well as pay for any new parts of course.

Has your relative got one of those switchable multi-channel (4 or 6) electronic stethoscope sound detecting devices where you attach the microphone sensors to various places and switch between the channels to see where the origin of the noise might be. Or mechanic's stethoscope, or length of hose pipe, I've use the vacuum cleaner hose before (I didn't find it using that as I didn't try the one place I thought it wasn't as I'd already checked, it was of course there). Up to you, or the boss, or a mate if you're the driver or listener.

Sorry, I am confused - is the right light unit new and different from the left which is original(?). I have no idea what the difference is with Monte Carlo lights without looking it up or if the regulations for rear lights in Israel are different to the UK. Sorry but it is beyond me, even if you put up high definition photos of each side I would not see or know or be able to tell if the wiring and soldering is correct and good, if you are sure you have done that all correctly then I am at a loss - unless, if you have one side LED and the other side not perhaps that could confuse the computer but I would have thought a warning would show or error code on scan tool. If you have fitted cheaply made or faulty LED or diode I do not know how that would effect the lighting. Sorry but you need someone with more knowledge than me, luckily that is many people.

James, are you connecting to another spare battery that is in (very) good state of charge, or to another reliable car, using good quality (quick enough) leads with all four the clips connected well and securely? After you get the car started, or if not, read your Owner's Manual and fully recharge the battery using an appropriate battery charger and maintainer, if the drain was low and slow it'd be best if the recharge is too. Months ago a neighbour couldn't get his girlfriend's car jumped started using a good spare battery (I know it is because I charged it) but also some awful taped extended double jump lead sets (he used to be in the motor trade) I borrowed another neighbour's good quality jump leads and as my wife had just arrived back we used her 2015 Fabia as the power source.

I'd no idea they done such things, "oxygen thieves" seem to get given a lot. 😁 On looking up if they still do it I too found the tyre repair page and scrolling to the bottom found the repair is "from just £27.50 per tyre". I once had tyre valves fitted that one showed cracks within a matter of months, as usual I was the only person that had had such a thing though later I think one other person might have said they'd had the same, mine were at peak time of ****-poor rubbish rubber parts. A couple of years before I had three different lots, from three different motors factors in different counties, of 1/4" petrol hose leak within days or weeks of being fitted, went to modern Goodyear 6mm and no problems. Other than one remould in 1979 I've never had any bad tyres, I went out of my way to avoid them.