nta16

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Lloyd, hi, welcome, if you fully read and when required refer to the 'Owner's Manual' for your car you will then know more about it than many long term owners and some at garages. A tip with these cars is to keep the car battery from getting into a low state of charge, even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough and there are not yet any warning lights or messages the car battery can still be in a low enough state of charge to upset the computers and they can throw up all sorts of unexpected issues. Just driving the car is not always enough to keep the car battery in a good state of charge and some owners find the use of an appropriate battery charger and maintainer can help with charging or better still prevent issues from a low battery. I think these handy videos feature a 2017 model and give info (much of it also in the Owner's Manual'), they reminded me of some things I'd forgotten I'd read in the 'Owner's Manual'. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. We all(?) sometimes forget what gear we are in but a quick glance at the dials for speed and revs should tell us if we are in an appropriate gear for the conditions.

Must be something in the water here! ☺️ 60,000 kilometers = 37282.282 miles according to Google, I rounded it to 37,000 miles for the sake of an easy figure in miles for those used to kilometers and not miles. In (UK) "old money" it would be 36,000 miles as that would be a usual (old) service point when services were at whichever was soonest arrived at mileage interval or time interval. 6,000 miles / 6 months, 12,000 miles / 12 months, 24,000 miles / 24 months and 36,000 miles / 36 months (or sometimes 30,000 miles / 3 years). So I would put 60,000 km as being equal to 36,000 miles or 3 years - at 4,000 km per year @Mustafa_Samir will be soonest at a 3 year interval than a 60,000 km interval.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Have you checked your 'Owners Manual', from a 2017 (same as ords linked to) there's lots more info in it too, free VWSkoda PDF copy available for download from following link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models See from your photo below, there's a crescent shaped slit in the trim material where you put the screwdriver through and arc up as in "Fig. 350". Try that first as it very cheap and easy to try and could easily work. I thought toot and others have put its £60 to plug in the diagnostics scan tool, well that's what the tool should be used for as a tool for diagnostics not "here's an error code so this part needs replacing". Even IF it didn't lock because of some error it would probably shut as that part of it is mechanical. Last month I open a neighbour's boot where a bag strap had got caught, that just required pulling a lever and using a bit of brute force (not a lot as I don't have much anyway). I used a diagnostic tool - my head - my eyes and brain (what's left if it and I didn't much before). If you're worried about a scan tool diagnostics you could see if you have a site member near you (where ever that is) that is willing to plug in a scan tool to check for error codes for this (or other stuff), I'm sure they'd ask a lot less than £100, see this link for map. - https://tinyurl.com/yn6mmtyk Finally a video, MK2 but still applies, and more handy hits that might also apply in other videos. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry you have put this before but I forgot, and will probably forget again. 60,000 km is 37,000 miles so is that three years use or more?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. As I put I doubt there is an interval in time or distance,* some might say 10 years or more, or 100,000 km or more. I like to do oil changes on a vehicle but even I would think three years with a mineral oil is fine, or up to 5 years, the thoroughness of the oil change will make a difference too. * ETA: I am wrong, again, (and I must have forgot, again) see D.FYLAKTOS's post - "Skoda says every 60.000 Km".

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thanks for reporting back, I'll remove that video. Always difficult to see black on black. Any idea what caused the blockage? Good to know, very fantastic plastic then, thanks.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. toot, there might not be a battery recall for 2016 cars but there was some sort of action on batteries because when I bought the battery for my wife's car it was high priced at the time and someone here pointed out VW had problems with batteries and that might be the reason. (Yes I know, hard to believe VW German engineering quality with problems. 😆) The battery is still lower cost now than when I bought it in June 2021 but perhaps there were other reasons for it's higher cost then, I don't know. I have listed a "Battery Recall" in the records for my wife's car as that's what I was told but on investigation now getting the info from the records for the car and a thread on here it's as follows. Recall 97CU vgnils put (15-3-2018) - " I looked into this the other day in erWin. This is what it says: "Technical background For Škoda vehicles of a certain production period the energy management of the vehicle battery has been optimised. Remedy On the affected vehicles the onboard supply control unit must be reprogrammed (see criterions)."" RickW had previously put (15-3-2018) - " . . . All I remember was the service manager muttering something about the battery and I left it with them. I suppose I could ring them but I wondered if anyone else has had it. My Fabia was built in January 2016." My wife's car was made April 2015. I'll alter my records to "Battery management Recall" but as the error or difference in programing that might have affected the battery life so perhaps some where changed, I don't know ours certainly wasn't and I don't know if anything was done to the car and can't remember the details now of how my wife was notified I don't even know if her car should have been part of the recall group only that the Dealership had it in and Recall 97CU is on the digital records. My wife certainly doesn't take her car to the Dealership for the sake of going there. 😀 First and only thread I looked at for info. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You should really show your daughter how to do these things as she's a driver and to empower her. My wife went on a short, basic car maintenance course at the local college decades back, but whilst I'm around it's my job. Do just check the battery at the start as you never know what previous owners and the selling garage have done with it, only recently there was a chap that had to replace the battery soon after getting the car as the car had just been sitting around before. For that thread I done a test on my wife's car as it was at home that morning. Hadn't been driven for a couple of hours (since the evening before really) unlocked the car, very quickly took a reading before the electric whirls and clicks and then took another reading about 35 minutes later having left the car locked and bonnet open and it was 0.2V higher.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. For a manual gearbox particularly I doubt there would be a gearbox oil change interval and some people would never bother changing in decades of vehicle use. - ETA: I am wrong, again, (and I must have forgot, again) see D.FYLAKTOS's later post - "Skoda says every 60.000 Km". Someone else here might know if there is a service interval for the Felicia gearbox. - ETA: as above! Personally I think useless you have extremes of driving or climate then 5 (or more) years would be fine. Better quality oils, usually synthetic, usually provide wider and longer lasting protection especially in extremes so would last longer so longer change intervals. As important as the oil change interval is the thoroughness of the oil change to get as much of the existing oil and contaminants out as possible so that as much new fresh oil can go back in meaning the new fresh oil is diluted less by the residue of existing oil and contaminants that are left in the gearbox. There is always residue of existing oil and contaminants left in the gearbox unless the gearbox is removed from the vehicle and completely striped down, the aim is to leave as little as possible in, a quick careless oil change will leave a lot more residue of existing oil and contaminants than most people realise. For the oil change get the oil as warm (hot) as possible so that more existing oil and contaminants comes out of the gearbox and easier, if drain leave to drain for as long as possible and sensible. If draining I personally add a little new fresh and warmed oil (warmed by the sun often) to the gearbox at the very end of the drain and allow that to drain through as a sort of final little flushing. If I remember correctly you really look after your car so you might want to look at the likes Redline oil or similar better synthetic oil, available in GL-4 if that is your preference. I do not know what oils companies/blenders are reasonably available to you Mannol may well have one suitable if you enquire with them.

ETA: - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) Perhaps , if you want to, you could edit in to your OP a hyperlink to that map/list of VCDS owners who offer help such as 'coding' batteries for those without VCDS, ODIS or similar other battery 'coding' facilities. I struggle to find the list or this thread as I can't see a way to make them a favourite/bookmark/go-to on this site. Cheers.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Its done now but for others - there's no need to worry about saving memories when disconnecting or replacing the battery see the 'Owner's Manual' for what's needed to replace, disconnect/reconnect or charge the car's battery. VWSkoda link for free pdf download of 'Owner's Manual' - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models varoom beat me to what I was going to put - see his previous post as his downloads detail of what 'coding' of the battery may be required - which it will be required if you've swapped from EFB to AGM battery.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I'll be honest I'd have not thought of it but then I struggle with all the plastic wire connectors on modern cars. Be interested to know when you find out as we live in a fairly hard water area and don't use premixed washer fluid. Some advice, don't let the car battery get low in charge as even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough and there are no warning lights or messages yet the car battery can still be too low for the computers and they can throw up all sorts of unexpected issues. Depending on the car, and battery, use some owners find they need to use an appropriate battery charger and maintainer as a repair or occasional preventative measure. Just for future, you can add details to your name thingy (no idea what it's called) at the lhs of posts to perhaps save having to repeat the details in future posts as in my example here. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Apparently it's a matter of a turn. See video that follows. ETA: wrong video, for a 2019 Fabia at least, so removed. I'm curious why you might on a three year old car need to clean the inside of the washer system, what's been used as washer fluid as I'd have thought most debris would be on the outside of the washer jets unless the car has been standing or washers not used for a long time when in my experience you can get a snot like gel in the fluid mixture. In particularly this could weather I'd not be touching any bits of plastic unless I really had to, and in warmer weather I'd be reluctant and very careful. Hope this video helps, (ETA: it didn't so removed) first one I found but it is a VW and still with fantastic-plastic, as no doubt(?) the Bentleys too. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi welcome. On my wife's 2015 Mk3 the horn is live with the ignition off. IIRC I've never had a car where the horn wasn't live but I am old and normally have had very old cars but even the brand new ones were the same, having put that the last new car I had was over 20 years ago. I don't think this particular thing is in there, but if you've not already done so, if you fully read and when required refer to your 'Owner's Manual' then you'll know more about your car than many long term owners and some at garages. There's also loads of info and help available here. Cheers.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. My wife's Mk3 Fabia is a 2015 1.2 TSI 90 (SE) hatch. Having had "classic" (over-priced, over-valued) cars as daily use for the last 30+ years and a 1973 MG Midget for about 14 years until last summer the thing that surprised me was the air filter change interval although luckily on my wife's car it was also changed at spark plug change, two years seems long enough to me given how much muck and grit the outside of the car gets from use and being parked up. I don't understand the VW way of specifying the oil and personally go for oil that covers all the various VW specs for the engine rather than picking one spec, VW seem to love over complicating things, makes me wonder what they're trying to hide. 😉 Personally even if your daughter uses the car for motorway miles I'd suggest you stick with 10-kmiles or annually for engine oil and filter changes and if like my wife's and many others the journeys are frequently very short and the oil barely gets a chance at 90°C then it might even need changing more often, not that I've bothered so far. One thing to be aware of is keeping the car battery at a reasonable level of charge otherwise the computers can get upset and throw up all sorts of issues before any warning lights or messages and with the engine still starting and the lights seeming bright enough. Depending on vehicle use some find the use of an appropriate battery charger (and maintainer) is required, perhaps only occasionally. There was also a battery recall so checked if your daughter's car was included and if so that it was done. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns Unlike my neighbour's 20 year old Toyota Yaris my wife's car has already had the front dampers replaced at about 6 years, 41k-miles, the new (Dealer) replacement dampers where going to be an MoT failure at less than 12-months old for leaking but after this the Dealership that fitted them with supposedly (I wasn't there) the warranty (2-years) replacements ready to fit found the fitted dampers were "misting" and didn't even note it as an Advisory on the MoT they did on the car. There's some sort of creak under the car, I've seen others have this and some have changed lots of parts and a noise remains, whether it's the same noise as on my wife's car obviously I can't know. Just recently one of key remotes has failed (we rotate the use of the two remote keys) £143.40 for remote and £41.40 to program it, an unexpected delight especially as it was the one that appeared less worn, the car had a lot of use in the 10k-miles before my wife bought it. I replaced the front discs and pads at 41k-miles, 6 years, again as my wife didn't have the car for the first 10k-miles I can't comment on the wear and I could have left replacing them to get more wear out of them but brakes are always number one priority (braking including tyres of course). At start up particularly the engine bay has given different noises at various times I guess it's the computers doing as they require I try not to hear anything now and my wife takes no notice anyway. The computers have told us there was a problem with a rear light when there didn't seem to be and not reported on a duff looking front bulb until a week after I first noticed it. The tyre pressure monitoring is not to be relied on (use a reliable tyre pressure gauge) it told my wife there was a problem well after she realised there was a puncture - but then I hope you've taught your daughter not to wait and rely on "idiot" warning lights and messages. As with the old cars if you and particularly your daughter read and when required refer to the 'Owner's Manual' you will know more about the car than many long term owners and some at garages. There should be a paper printed copy with the car and you can also get a free pdf copy download from the following VWSkoda link. Even things like changing the remote battery owners have issues with because they've not referred to the 'Owner's Manual' (synchronising remote, very easy), alarm going off when using "emergency" keyblade and lock, and a few other things I can't think of now. - 'Owner's Manual' link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Some (6 in total) simple videos that could help and remind you and your daughter (and me) of somethings about the car. Good luck.

Certainly lots of crap made stuff is made in China but a lot of that is because consumers in the likes of the UK and USA demand the lowest prices to pay for lots of stuff, and then often moan about it being crap. The Chinese can do quality very easily, very high quality but then big Western brands put their names on the cheap made crap and sell at a low price but with very high margins or the very high quality stuff at massive margins. Ratner wasn't lying. 😄 And don't mention products made in Erdington to me . . . 😡

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. As with Warrior193 I have not seen refence to it, and Warrior193 has probably seen a lot more than me about it but on what I have seen so far I suspect the opposite in that as the battery is monitored for the start/stop and the start/stop can be deactivated (or not activated) for various reasons and info from sensors the various computer programming probably has allowances to stop or prevent the battery from being overcharged. Having put that, some of the references I have seen made to some circumstances or conditions for the start/stop to operate or not didn't seem to apply to my wife's car but who knows when the programs are changed or updated from model to model or (part?) year to (part?) year and allowing for programming errors and omissions - as if!, sorry I take that back, such things wouldn't happen. 🙃

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thanks for reporting back. Glad you got it sorted. Unfortunately I'm not too surprised that a modern made part was faulty or didn't last too long as I'm so used to it from the world of "classic" (old over-priced, overvalued) British cars where parts quality can often be abysmal or ****-poor, I've even, twice, been let down by modern made British motorsport engineering, very simple but expensive, components. All being well your issue is now sorted for a very long time.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I'm not so sure as it's part of the very complex interconnected computer programming, I don't see any harm in giving it a go, see the last two paragraphs of one of Breezy_Pete’s posts in that thread. J367 is Battery monitor control unit with battery sensor. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/486431-charging-current/#comment-5463199 As I see it your problem, or part of it, could be the current battery possibly weakened or damaged by another issue, the charging system (which includes computer programing) or the computer programming, perhaps an update to it is needed(?). To confirm the battery it would possibly need to be isolated or removed from the vehicle and tested. The alternator charging could be tested but as one element of the charging system it would need the charging system monitoring. The computer programs might show a glitch from battery or charging system monitoring if no Recalls or updates are available. The other side of course is the out goings from the battery what is drawn from it, what draws for how much and how long and should it, possibly items added to the car on constant if low drain or going faulty and working when they should not. I think battery monitoring has been covered before and the others have covered VCDS, you could perhaps buy a different system that covers VAG and others makes if later you want to get out of VAG ownership but none of the better systems will be cheap. Unfortunately swapping batteries in and out or around with cars to keep them going whilst testing or charging in another car or "bench" (shed) is not as easy as it once was. My neighbour has an old spare battery that we move around between his car and van as both are rarely driven so one or the other has the battery too low for when they are used or need moving.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If it's possible and allowed for a 2018 car, and in Nirrain's country, to disconnect the start/stop system then I've seen at least one poster put they've used their car for three years with the start/stop negative post connector disconnected. Someone like varooom would have to do all the tests with readout figures or graphs but I fully 100% (if not more) charged the AGM battery before fitting it my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3, from the previous EFB, and I left the start/stop negative post connector disconnected for a while before I could get someone to 'code' the battery in. Like varoom I changed the battery prematurely to avoid the slightest hassle as my wife uses the car on lots of very, very short journeys and is not as thrifty with the electric as I and she'd not tolerate any car problems having already experience two or three lifetimes of them. Nirrain's got an EFB battery that keeps losing charge so could perhaps risk a journey or two with the start/stop negative post connector disconnected especially if he can monitor the situation with some sort of VCDS or the likes - not that I'm suggest any plug-in should be left in too much.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Did you try try, if possible and allowed, disconnecting the start/stop connector the battery negative post and seeing how things go with the battery driving with that disconnected. Or have you checked to see if your battery is fully charging or has a bad cell or other fault so shows as fully charged but is not - or does not hold charge with use, might need another new battery if the current one got badly injured. Modern "smart" battery chargers and maintainers are not very smart and easily fooled by batteries and humans. Have bought a VCDS or asking before you do?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry went by this thread. I'm not sure what you are reading there and how you're doing the readings, are you sure you've got the voltage range set correctly. The resistance is often quoted on manufacturer's materials or parts lists, possibly on a bit of paper in or on the box, though I don't know for sensors. You'd be much better with someone who knows electrics, a few post in Fabia Mk2 and Mk2 sections but also drift to Mk3 section sometimes.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I put my hands up. Sorry to hear this when you put running very rough you meant it, well beyond any battery.

Your later post had three years. - As a FREEDOM member you could go back and edit your posts if you want to, just as example perhaps for continuity a strikethrough of 2016 and add 2019, such as. -