nta16

Nick I thought it might be as it looks similar to the engine in my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3, which is a CJZC. Here's a link to Workshop Manuals that might help you identify parts and locations, if not I can give you the one for the Fabia Mk3 CJZC/D engine. - https://cardiagn.com/skoda/skoda-rapid/ HTH.

Hi, welcome. A new 2026 car will be a different experience to older used cars. My advice is read and refer to the car's 'Owner's Manual' (as much as you can now as they're not as good as useful as they were previously) and keep the 12v battery in a reasonably good state of charge so as not to upset the all of the car's computer system. You obviously know where the Kodiaq section of the site is and you might have already read the 'Owner's Manual', for the latest model, but in case not here's the link to VWŠkoda's 'Owner's Manual' site. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models All the best.

Nick, what's your 1.2 TSI engine code?

Tony, I might have this all wrong, but it seems like you seem to be in a rush for cosmetic sort outs of a Bodge-it & Scarper kind, is this the project type you want to teach your son, a quick turn over for profit, motor trade like, a fur coat and no knickers job. It's been 'it up the arse, what's the boot floor look like, how are side to side and front to back measurements, it might be the photo but there's a bit of an origami look to that rear wing, not a napkin swan but a side, rear or FBH impacts possibly - but I'm certainly no bodywork, or any other, expert and perhaps it looks better in the metal than in the photo.

ETA: I missed the link that's already been put up, bear in mind these things can be intermittent, at first at least. The systems are vey complex and need all the ducks in a line to operate and to be fair some of it can be about safety or perceived lack of.

Hi, welcome. You will find owning a 2020 Scala a different experience to a 2011 Polo. Plenty of information and advice on this site to be found or asked for. My advice is to read and refer to the car's 'Owner's Manual' and to keep the battery in a good state of charge, using an appropriate battery charger maintainer if required. Well done on your age and cycling.

Hi, welcome. You have not put you have a (2019?) Kodiaq so if you have not already seen it there is a 'Škoda Kodiaq' section on this site, with a sub-section for the Mk1, where you can find lots of information and help from Kodiaq owners and others. Good luck. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/340-%C5%A1koda-kodiaq/

Hi, welcome. Škoda Dealerships, eBay, others. If you give more information there might be someone who can help you with replacement or repair.

Even with a new AGM battery fitted as your mileage is so low at some point you will need to start preventative charges of the battery to stop it getting low enough in state of charge to upset the computers (forget how bright the headlights are or no difficulty the engine (though stop/start not working when it should is a sign of low state of charge in the battery). That is on top of any possible undetected fault(s) in the car that might affect the battery, that VWŠkoda might not, or might, know about. My wife's 2015 had a Recall "for battery" as my wife was told, it wasn't the battery but "the onboard supply control unit must be reprogrammed". Easier for them to blame the battery than the programming. Has your car had any programs updated on it as updates often seem to (perhaps) solve one problem and create one or more new problems (sorry Derek) - or perhaps there's an outstanding up date that might sort the issues on your car. The computer systems can get their panties in a twist with each other and causes all sorts of unexpected and "unrelated" issues and problems so I'm always in favour of a full removal and discharge of power so for you I'd disconnect the present battery and not reconnect the new AGM straight away (for my own car I'd add in another stage but that seems to upset some other members that predict disaster). Good luck. Don't let your new AGM battery get too low for the computers and see if that improves things in the future.

You shouldn't need to change the battery on a 3 year old car, there's a fault with something, but, well, that's where you might be at. If you're charging the battery then fully recharge it to 100% (of what the battery is now) with as low amps as your charger goes (5-amps IIRC), this may take many hours to get to 100% charge but stick with it even if it takes more than one go to get to 100%. It might be that the battery has already got too low and/or too low too often to fully successfully fully recharge and hold on to that charge very long or have enough guts left in the battery for much robust use but you might be able to keep it topped up (as much as possible) by regular recharging with a suitable charger maintainer. Getting a battery fitted and 'coded' shouldn't be too difficult but finding out why this is required might be more difficult unless VWŠkoda cough up on anything, other than you perhaps have fitted something to the car that causes additional battery drain but you'd hope the Dealership would have noticed such. Good luck.

ETA: my wife's 2015 90 TSI 5MT gets a little bit more than 42-44 mpg and most work days is usually driven on journeys of 3 miles (5km) or less town driving but that is a different car to yours, driven by a different person, in a different country and weather, without winter tyres, timely servicing and maintenance. But only timely servicing and maintenance and not more than that (other than changing the gearbox oil, and to better than VW use and changed the "lifetime" coolant and using a good engine oil when I done the last two engine oil changes). I don't waste anymore of my life on looking after the car than is necessary to keep it running (reasonably) well.

Are you carrying unnecessary weight in the car, have a roof box or bike rack still on it. That would only just about fully warm the engine for the last mile or two perhaps, look at your engine oil temperature not the coolant gauge you want the oil at 90+C for as long as possible on the journey. 1.,500 to 2,000 rpm isn't best for the engine all the time, perhaps it need a good blow out run (after the engine has been fully warmed at 90+c oil temp), an Italian tune-up. You can clog the engine up but taking it too easy all the time. Yes a bit. Try a couple of tankfulls of E5 with extra cleaning additive package. They should have been changed a couple of times at least by now, possibly more depending on milage on the car. You also want your engine air filter and air filter box to be not too dirty, that should have been changed at least once by now, if not more depending on use of car and environment. As I put before you want the whole car to be in a reasonable condition for it to run well and give good performance (fuel economy). On a standard car at least that would be a waste of time and money and might even give worse performance than factory fitting. With your year at least the DSG model 90 TSI is heavier not lighter than the manual gearbox 90 TSI and depending on how it is driven a manual gearbox might get better fuel economy than a DSG. Take little notice of the gear selection recommendation on the dash of your car instead drive to circumstances and anticipate the road ahead with what gear you use and you will get better fuel economy. Are you a fairly recent driver?

For 'coding' the new battery you could try - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/

He's put "Binary - AGM" rather than "Fleece", it might not may any odds but with three batteries in three years I'd not take a chance and would even stick with the three character "VAO" manufacturer code rather "Lion" just to be sure with a 2022 or 2025 VW product and their even more complex computer programing. He doesn't seem like a careless person so I'm guessing VW might have a battery charging or other issue they're not admitting to.

Given previous and current problems I think it best on this occasion at least to get a new the battery 'coded' so that no one can make the excuse that the computer didn't know it weas a new battery and thought it was a (not very) old (at all) that was possibly lower in state of charge. 'Coding' a battery isn't difficult it just requires like all computer stuff accurate information to be entered and even careless professions can balls-up this simple task but others would take more care. The important things on 'coding' are the "battery serial number" change, often by one digit increase as the factory was lazy in its own previous requirements and just entered/keystokes/'coded'/data entry of ten ones (1111111111) so you can change to 1111111112. Then the change of amp hour rating if required and the change of battery type if required (EFB to AGM). Below is from when a member used OBDEleven for the battery change (to AGM) on my wife's 2015 Mk3, as you see I didn't even bother with VW's three character code for battery make but you can just leave or retype what was in before (JCB in the case of my wife's previous battery in example below). Also below that a pdf for coding with VCDS to give you the idea of how simple it is (scan tool required of course). Don't get too carried with bigger cranking and capacity figures on a battery rather go for a good battery that can maintain its figures reliably for longer. Generally physical size and weight still matter but you are limited to the space available. If the battery is fitted in the engine bay then VW want extra insulation to an AGM battery (underneath IIRC) to protect it from engine bay heat but again I didn't bother and things still seem fine after 5 years - but others, including you can do differently if you want. VCDS How to adapt a new battery.pdf HTH.

Hi, welcome. This is the 'Hellos & Goodbye' forum, I'll 'Report' (drop-down on the three-dots at top right of posts) so that a Moderator can move your post to the Superb Mk2 forums of the 'Škoda Superb' section of this site where there will be owners and others with lots of information and advice on your model. Good luck.

Hi, welcome. There might be a few differences you'll want to know with a 2019 Mk3 from previous model, read the 'Owner's Manual' that came with the car, but plenty of info and advice in he Mk3 forum and as always keep the 12v battery in a reasonable state of charge and condition or the computers may make you suffer. Good luck. Fabia section of site. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/166-%C5%A1koda-fabia/

Hi, welcome.

Hi, welcome.

Stage one used to be go faster stripes, probably ambient lighting now. 😁 Good luck.

Well, I would suggest your wife reads the 'Owner's Manual', but I've tried that with my wife for her Fabia, and it didn't work - so it's down to you, even if you think you already know you just might not. Sorry I'm not a German marques fan though about 20 years ago I did very briefly look at the Z4 and Alpina Roadster as sports tourers but neither were for me. Why not get your wife to post her if it is her car? 😁 Good luck.

One of the best things you can do for ownership and saving garage visits and costs is to read and refer to the car's 'Owner's Manual' if the paper printed copy is missing from your car then VWŠkoda offer their website for free pdf downloads, put in your VIN. Also to make sure the 12v battery doesn't get too low in charge to upset the computers and have them throw up all sorts of unexpected warnings and lights and issues with the car. Even if the headlights seem bright enough and well, well before there's noticeable engine staring delay - you may already know this if you have/had a BMW. 'Owners Manual's' site. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models

Other side to my post on the other thread. - https://www.google.com/search?q=1.2+Fabia+MK3+remapping+site:www.briskoda.net HTH.

I've no idea what you know about cars and driving so bear that in mind, but a flip side to what you'll get in Fabia Projects, if you want some (opposite) tips and info on considering car tuning. I'm sure you would agree that the first part of tuning is full and regular timely servicing, maintenance and repairs for the whole car - fiddling with things comes after. Once that is fully sorted you might move on to better lubricants for additional protection margins for the extra push at and/or passed the usual car's parameters. You always sort your brakes first along with the suspension (tyres come into both of those for safety as well as performance), get the geometry checked and sorted and adjusted with any changes you make each time to suspension, wheels/tyres. Always last is anything to do with the engine, check that no changes are required to clutch and transmission from engine changes if you're going far with the engine. The engine should never be beyond anything else on the car, you want all in balance. Many "improvements" can turn out to be not necessarily so in real world of (legal) driving on public roads particularly if they take the overall balance out of the car. Modern cars are already generally oversized with wheels and tyres and over lowed and over-stiff suspension can often on some roads make things worse rather than better. Here's the bit you would won't like, the best tuning you can do is driver training, the benefits can also transferred at no extra cost to future cars and sometimes negate the need for more extreme tuning on the car.

I think if you read down the posts in the following thread it covers what you might want to know. If you have hand crank winders at the rear, as with my wife's car, then I know you can't get open/close off the remote key fob because that requires a different bit(s) for the windows control I forget what they might call the pack for this, then you would need to program all in. HTH.