nta16

80 will open sooner and close later than 87 so until and when the coolant temperature is above the fully open 80 then the engine will be kept cooler, once passed the fully open temperature of a stat the stat can do no more.

I don't know these cars (pick-ups) or engines at all, so you might have the Polo 1.6 engine of the time or 1.6 original to Felicia of the time and I've no idea how much their ECUs and set up would vary, I'm more used to carbs, an electronic distributor and indicator flasher unit are my electronic excursions away from basically 1950s designs, even if build in 1960s and 70s. I do remember seeing the bright yellow Fun pick-ups when they first came out but never being a VW fan never notice the VW pick-ups, that are so fashionable now. Cooling basics remain the same, even on the more annoying later more complex, aren't we German's clever, designs. I'm not sure the Felicias or Polos of last century had been taken to much of that annoyance and complexity but I could well be wrong. System flush is a good idea, my thinking with backflush was to help not to clog or partially clog any small water ways with nearby or transited debris also helped by breaking the system down by taking it apart to zones with openings that give you more direct sight and access to apertures of flushing and/or scraping out. But no matter what you do you can only get so far or do so much unless you completely strip everything down. Same other fluid changes, things like oil changes always leave a residue to mix in with the fresh new fluid introduced. The idea is to reduce the residue as much as is reasonably possible so that the residue has the least diluting effect of the fresh new fluid. If you have good flow and no bits turning up anywhere in the fresh new coolant then that is fair enough. Air locks can be an issue but I have always found following the Driver's Handbook method and no other is good and no need for all the other things some people do but I am very slow and careful, checking the book despite having unfortunately to do partial and full refills far to many times. I even got away with a full coolant change on my wife's 2015 Fabia without the use of vacuum or scan tool despite taking ages to remove two annoying self sprung hose clips in a very awkward place to get even the correct tool on let alone the non-correct tools I had to hand (only one instance of why I don't like the German car way of doing things). There are simple kits that help filling old cars to avoid air locks. The pressure in the coolant system is about higher temperatures, you won't achieve it with the pressure cap off so I doubt soft expanded hoses will make much odds to your current issue, if they split and burst that's a whole new ball game. I forget now who owns the QH brand and where the parts are made as it's been a while since I researched parts for my car but the others here will be able to tell from a photo if the QH water pump construction looks the same as original water pumps. Of course the QH pump does have to be the correct model to purpose and there may be variants, a quicker pump isn't necessarily a good thing, pump needs to be correct for application. If you have done your research and checked and cross referenced the information with good reliable sources of information then that is fine. The others would know better than I about acceptable pressure losses but it has made me think of pressure cap which I think we have covered before but if not that's another thing to check - blue(?) or yellow(?) screw on cap, doubt it's a steel bayonet which used to last for very many years but more modern one didn't last as long (a service item for some). Plugs are more of a general thing, but if they were in the engine when you got it you don't know their history and you would certainly check them for being correct and in good condition, and colour for engine running condition. Fake plugs have been about, if too bad you would have misfires probably. The ECU sorts out the running but has no direct control on mechanical parts so they need to be in good order other wise everything is compensation for the issue and may not be fully capable. As said many (many) times brakes are important relatively engine is NOT, so I'd not expect the brakes to be bad but drums can drag and you might not notice too much unless you put your hand on the wheel(s) I only think of such things as a possible contributory factor rather than the actual cause as I'd hope you'd notice if the brakes were that bad they caused the engine to get warm - but I don't know (or have forgot) if you have ever driven a Felica in reasonable condition or old cars to know what and how they should be. I've meet owners who have thought "old cars are like that" for stuff that was actually something faulty or lack of knowledge about the proper servicing, maintenance and repairs plus lack of proper driving of the vehicles over enough miles and conditions and circumstances. Plenty new to old cars or that model but also some long term and/or older owners that should have know better. The old "they all do that", often, yes when they're not kept well or driven properly. Temperature building whilst parked might be an underlining issues or if that takes a very long time a normal thing, others would know better than me but the running above what it normally should when driven again is an issue that needs resolving. Often going back over and checking everything (again) with someone else with you - the very basics first, engine set up, new parts fitted, ideas of what to check, etc. etc. can often turn up something previously missed or new ideas or solution. Number of times I or someone else have thought they'd already checked something they hadn't or dismissed something or checking or rechecking something because they think or have been told "it won't be that" to discover they should have checked or rechecked or it was that after all. A mate, unlike me who knows about mechanics and worked on lots of vehicles, and I was doing something or other on the engine of my car and he reconnected the HT leads, only 4 of them you can't go wrong, and soon after starting the engine I ask him "why's that exhaust header getting hot?". He'd mixed up two leads yet the engine didn't sound like it was running out of order. We laughed, I couldn't say anything as one time I helped him reconnect his suspension arms to speed things up so he could to for a test run, very unusually I finished first, looked at him still spanning up and asked "why have you put that over that?" - I had to undo my side and redo it the correct way, so much for saving him time. The best and worst of us regardless of lots of experience, or lack of, can make schoolgirl errors. Good luck.

You actually put some miles on your dCi so didn't have the lots of short journeys DPF issues some owners get over here, but a 2017 Renault or VW brand car will possibly be better overall than the same model Renault VW brand model built in 2021. At your rate of changing cars and mileage you might be better looking at cars built before 2020 or save even more time, hassle and money and buy even older, 2011, 2005, or further back. Or IIRC Dacia (Renault engines?) built in Romania, Sandero is least expensive car in Europe but also the most reliable, shows how the likes of VW are just taking the p1ss. Renault, VW brands are European, don't you have Japanese and Korean brands - not Nissan because of Renault bit, Nissan Cashcow (Qashqai) very big seller over here but not that reliable. Good luck.

You could perhaps try some switch cleaner lubricant on the switch. ETA: Denmark will probably have its own version(s) of this.

Hi. welcome. You are in the wrong forum, you would be best to go to the forum for your model and year of car on this site, as you have not put your car's model and year in your profile (and 'Author's stats') I can't direct you there but just look look the lists on the site Home page. Good luck. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/

Hi, welcome. If you have not already seen it along with lots of other sections and forum with general and model information on this site is one specifically for Octavias and the Mk2. - Škoda Octavia - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/169-%C5%A1koda-octavia/ I hope that helps.

But it looks like you can get the correct part numbers at least (well with this part at least) they always look good for information. I'm sure you do the same, when I have difficulty finding information and correct parts I always record the correct part and suitable alternatives as parts and parts suppliers can come and go or become unreliable for many reasons. Getting alternative parts numbers, where available, can also widen the range of suppliers and prices, as I have put before the exact same part can be listed under different part numbers or codes, even by the same supplier, at different prices and at different times. And sometimes you have to search under the alternative use name(s) for a parts - such as in this case - Oil Drain Plug M22x1.5 Czech Republic - OE producer N 016 163 2 - 002 301 127 A - 005 137 141 - 111 204 690 - 113 004 690 Gearbox screw plug, oil pans. Also of course since the wider use of computers and the internet particularly you can look for misspellings and incorrect naming or application of the parts particularly in (data) tables, a part you know fits your (factory original) car may not be in the compatibility list or incorrectly in a compatibility which should not apply to your (factory original) car. We have enough experience to know all this but sometimes we forget and become too lazy or too trusting, it's all so time consuming for something that should be so easy - such is life, particularly with old cars.

Don't go to the Dealership unless you still have warranty on the parts, in the UK the Dealership would just sell you a new remote fob and charge to 'code' it, total at about £200. I know you are in New Zealand but have a look at the shop of the video producer as he sells car key repair kits or you could email or look on line for the cases being sold but I have no idea of the various qualities. Hopefully you can just swap over parts. Or look at your case and see if you can repair it, again 'The Car Key Man UK' may be able to advise you on this or he might have put up a video on this, I've not looked. - https://www.youtube.com/@TheCarKeyMan/videos I would guess if the remote has made it out of warranty period then it has achieved its VW design and build aims. I've never understood why anyone in your part of the world favour European cars unless given to you as part of your job or your wealthy enough not to worry about the ownership costs and inconveniences. Good luck.

Autodoc is inconsistent with their list for parts not a supplier I'd use for checking parts I thought we'd been all through this before, but in case it wasn't here - N90813202 is plug with captive washer from factory I believe, for Fabia Mk3 at least, this is swapped at first engine oil change for N9028891 and washer N0138157 and subsequent engine oil changes then only need the washer changing to save material waste - but Dealership will charge for both plug and washer anyway whatever thy actually use. I don't understand your surprise with parts information you have been through this a few times that I can think of, why not start you part searches with Skoda Parts rather than elsewhere.

Thanks for reporting back. a lesson learnt there about parts quality - however VW parts quality can also be is poor (which I can confirm on suspension parts) if you have already had to replace suspension parts on a 2021 car - unless you are abusing and/or off-roading the car. I know cars with factory fitted suspension parts that are many years old, and coming up to three decades used on the third-world potholed roads we have but of course these are not VW AG cars. Even cheap Vauxhalls can get into their second decades on (most of) their factory suspension parts. Surely you can get other than German brands in Israel to compare 5 year old cars against, 50,000 miles is a bit soon to have so much falling apart on a car even if it is so modern. In the UK some car manufacturers give v5 and 7 years warranties (not VW as far as I know) but if I understand correctly in Australia VWŠkoda get 7(?) year warranties (sound too good to be true and too expensive for VW).

It was unlikely to have been the coolant but having a clean system and any bit cooler helps and delays getting too warm/hot which helps with running and finding issue. Back to checking and rechecking basics as previously listed in several posts. As you have changed from a 1.3 to a 1.6 engine the cooling needs to be adequate for the 1.6. You have fitted a lot of new parts now were you able to check the parts were correct for engine and worked correctly before fitting and that they were fitted correctly (water pump, thermostat, etc.,) checked for bubbles again and other signs of head gasket failure again, any blockages or partial blockages at new parts areas, coolant and exterior. I forget is engine set up correctly timing wise, correct plugs, air filter and air to engine unrestricted, exhaust unrestricted, brakes not binding. Have you tried heating the engine up fully when parked up and getting it warmer to check when fan cuts in and out - to eliminate the cooling or heating effect of the vehicle being driven and moving along the road. It's (hopefully) probably going to be something silly that's been, missed or not noticed. Why not do a video (landscape) of front of vehicle and inside engine bay with the engine up to temperature / warmed up / warmer hot to see if others can spot something that might be amiss.

I did think it a little odd that it was the same sump plug as a 2015 Fabia but a lot VW stuff is basic stuff from their past. Just looked at the febi Bilstein catalogue and that shows their (N 902 889 01 | N 016 155 2 | N 016 155 4 | N 912 889 01) - 03272 - Oil Drain Plug without seal ring as fitting the 1.6 and 1.9 engines but has nothing for 1.3 engine. - https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en/article/febi/03272

You tell us, those were your figures from your use of your VCDS on your car and battery. As I've put before don't get too hooked up on machine (or other) figures and simple maths, and remember these are snapshots at one point of time and many variable circumstances. Plus also I'd imagine that VW allow a margin for delay in immediately replacing the battery with, hopefully, them for good profit, so give an over-pessimistic view of wear and end of battery life. Charge figures and how they're obtained can have a few variables too, here's (one of?) VW table on this and I'm sure others will have other tables with slight variations on the figures. - VW Charge level No-load voltage 1.28 g/cm3 100% 12.7 V 1.21 g/cm3 60% 12.3 V 1.18 g/cm3 40% 12.1 V 1.10 g/cm3 0% 11.7 V

Apparently the VWŠkoda vehicles made in the Czech Republic (or at least Mladá Boleslav) have better quality control than VW German assembly factories and only recently an ex-VWŠkoda technician (he was far too nice to work in an English Dealership for too long) told me that Porches (another overrated VW AG brand) were sent there to be painted. I have no idea about the roads in Spain but in many parts of England all-wheel drive are totally unnecessary other than for the 4x4 badge imagery and perceived status and certainly if more practical wheels and tyres were used even less necessary but wheels and tyres have been a faction items on vehicles for decades, high heel shoes worn with both party dresses and work overalls. Switching off some of the driver "aids" and "assists" also often negates the need for all-wheel drive, even with the silly electronic-handbrakes fitted. There are plenty of vehicles with higher ground clearance now because of the obsession with (what used to be called) "sports utility" looking vehicles. For various reasons vehicles are bigger and heavier (so much for fuel economy and omissions) now so as manufacturers like VW AG cannot make enough profit on small cars they happily build and promote oversized (footprint) vehicles that they can market as bigger and more upmarket to sell for higher prices to (they hope) keep them in business. In the UK you would have to go up to the VW Bentley brand to get any real difference in customer service (only today I put about all the VW AG Aldi Audi marked plastic and other bits are under the Bentley skin and how decades back Toyota starting the Lexus brand and Dealerships in the UK with the famous LS 400 forced Jaguar and Mercedes to up their treatment of their customers (if not their products), BMW and their customers remained as they were. Later the stereotypical "a'holes" that as a total generalisation, used to buy BMWs, often used, in the UK went over to, often, used Audis. That image of Audi driver's in the UK remains and often is correct (same for many Golf owners). I have no idea what brands are sold in Spain but less fashionable brands in Europe may still be about that use previous good bits from other brands that had moved on to newer and less good stuff in their own brands. 2020 on (or perhaps a lot sooner for the likes of VW) vehicles are not generally overall in the medium and long term the best period to buy. Many more people are beginning to wake up to this realisation often by the costs, hassle and reliability of these vehicles as they age (and even from new). Make the most of things as much as you can for as long as you can or accept renting/hiring/leasing vehicles now and in the future, despite the higher costs of doing so. Elon has helped illuminate the possibilities but the likes of Ford considered the ideas many years back. Rant over. 😄 Good luck.

The risk of leaving things to soak is possibly more time for debris be loosened and drop and/or build up at points and possibly flushing at even reasonable pressure may dislodge and just pass by some of the build ups or bits. Possibly back-flushing at reasonable pressure, after initial drain and flush of cleaning, may stir things up a bit and move more. This to be followed by forward flush(es) again until clear. Doing the flushes and back-flush in sections, engine bloc, radiator, matrix, connecting hoses and pipework, possibly gets more out as well. Once you have done a thorough clean and flushes and back-flush hopefully this will set you up well to just do the two-yearly thorough drain and refills of coolant/antifreeze to keep the heating/coolant system in good reasonable working order (subject to parts replaces as and when required too). Keeping the outside of the radiator, rad grille, and fan reasonable free of debris (and not blocking rad grille with ornaments) should also help with running temperatures. Of course the second type of engine cooling is the engine oil so regular timely changes using good quality oil will also help engine running temperatures and generally.

No I wasn't sure what that meant either. 😄 Exclusive clubs like VCDS users don't want me as a member but as Groucho Marx said "I refuse to join any club that would have me as a member." 😁

Thanks for reporting back Most/all big companies websites have loads of errors and omissions on them and out of date information and broken links, they tend to be so vast and "legacy" that they have become partly uncontrollable and this is because, to put it into car terms they have been allowed to become this way by lack of proper full regular and timely servicing, maintenance and repair, and when they are attended to the parts and work quality may not be the best (sound familiar at all). It has always been beyond me why in this century the believe that the German car marques are so good continues, great marketing and undeserved loyalty from customers, or they don't want the truth out as they need to get a high price for their German car when they sell it. I am not sure why you think another VW/VAG brand will be any or much better than VWŠkoda, they are still VW (who the courts know well). I am sure VW/VAG will not mind you paying more for one of their products with the VW or Audi badge on it. I was told by someone that knows a lot about cars that Audi are great cars to drive but never get a modern one out of manufacturers warranty - but even then I have know brand new Audi owners to have lots of trouble whilst in warranty. Do you not have IMO better brands available to you in Spain, like the Japanese (not Renault/Nissan) or Korean. But as always it is each to their own and it is your money and your choice to do as you please - but do not expect much from a large manufacturer of cars or their aftersales networks and companies and they do not always attract the most caring of people and even if they do they leave or get ground down to go along with it all. Good luck.

ETA:

You're trusting two different computer systems and programs and to to interact with each other, and doesn't the VCDS use drop the voltage too(?).

John shows as having a 2019 Polo TL 1.0 M5F 65 hp (petrol) in his 'Author's stats' (click-on three dots drop menu at top right corner of post). Don't put too much into raw figures, figures given for brand new batteries can be at different methods of testing and relate to a new unused battery, some batteries will retain nearer those figures for longer than others and of course all depends on the environment, use (abuse and neglect) of the battery as to how well and long it performs well. Remember the figures going to 11 and not 10 may not mean much.

It might depend on 80% of what, but my understanding is that the VW system works on the 12v battery being charge to say about 80% (figures seem to vary) leaving 20% room for the regenerating charge that's supposed to be about fuel and emissions savings (on big heavy cars with just one occupant most times travelling short or very short journeys). That is why I recharge the 12v battery to 100% of its capacity using an appropriate charger maintainer (and following the instruction for it and in the car's 'Owner's Manual') as it usual is below 100%. I know the car's system will have it back down to around 80% but the 100% charge is good for the battery (and alternator). The 12v battery was and remains one of the most oversold car parts. The need for battery chargers generally went away decades back but returned with the likes of VW's s/s and all the modules, sensors, convenance and comfort items users demand, all the "aids" and "assists", from what, 2005 with VW, so guess how much more a battery charger maintainer might be needed in 2026.

First link doesn't work for me. Specialist suppliers often have more detailed information than general suppliers that get databases from here there and everywhere with often errors and omissions copied from past lists and more errors made by merging lists. A lot of the problems come from manufacturers giving the same part different codes / part numbers to different applications where the same part can be sold for more money just by putting it in a bag with a different brand label. The VAG Bentley will have lots of (plastic and other) parts under the metal sheets with Aldi Audi VAG on them out of sight of the Bentley owner but I bet they are not sold at Aldi Audi VAG prices.

FYI - that white thing, VW AG 5QA915181C, is the battery management sensor that rules your life with and use of your vehicle. 🙃

No it isn't, that's a part. It may be other fault(s) but often the first sign the 12v battery needs charging is when the stop/start doesn't operate when it should and needs charging up and often just driving the can may not be sufficient. Buying and using an appropriate battery charger maintainer (they can be inexpensive and do a great job) and using it preferably for preventative charging to 100% (car only does about 50%) will help vastly reduce the many issues of a 12v battery in a low state of charge and health that can cause the owner/driver a load of hassle and unnecessary expense. The battery with get better, more reliable service for longer and battery useful life can be extended by many years. Or you can pay a garage to do a quick higher rate recharge of the battery with their battery charger or possibly prematurely replace the battery at a high cost plus 'coding'.

As the, very good, video says seems (the usual modern) flimsy. I always synchronise the remote to the car (details in 'Owner's Manual') after changing a remote(s) battery(ies) and I alternate the use of the remote usually used with the second every 6 months that way it evens out wear of remotes and batteries and the location of the other remote is always known. (ETA: for info 2032 battery is 20mm diameter and 3.2mm deep, 2025 battery is 2.5mm deep)