nta16

No problem. Sometimes you have to look for the item number in the string but other times like yours they're very easy as it's just a matter of copying just to the end of the item number. Happy to pass it on, as someone did for me.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I reset the valve clearances or "checked/adjusted the tappets" on my (recently former) A-series 1275 engine only a matter of weeks ago as part of the annual service (don't bother at six-months service). You get noise even if they're adjusted correctly (not that I'm any good at it) that's partly why the aftermarket alloy rocker covers are fitted, that and bling, and vanity/ego if you have a name on it or put on it. Then of course you can colour match it to the engine bay, the car body, your racing team colours or your favourite nail polish. They do of course add a few hp (or fraction of with an A-series).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Each to their own, that and the all black one I see down the road look very plain and stubby particularly in those colours. Personally I think you would need a big hammer to add interest to the body and panel shapes. A difference to what appeals in different areas and countries perhaps. ETA: I think your car looks fine and the protective stripes lined up with the bumpers looks fine too.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Just for info. - To save virtual ink and screen space, you can shorten the eBay link to just the item number. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265881626043 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265872809553

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. A good quality (horizontal not portrait if using a phone please) photo or photos can often help because your car might not remain as it left the factory with others before you making alterations. Not that I know what the original factory set up looks like but others will. Dirty electrical connectors can cause lots of issues, sometimes just giving them a careful but good clean with electrical contact cleaner spray and perhaps if required using something like a clean used toothbrush, can clean them enough to resolve the poor connection. Sometimes you may need more than these for a good cleaning. The blower motor turns the 'fan' so if that connection is bad then that could be the cause of the issue - but as I have put I do not know your car and am not an electrical expert in any way but that is where I would start. Again a photo(s) might help with conformation of this - and others with better eyes and more experience and knowledge may also be able to spot other items not as factory standard or might potentially cause issues. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Also always a good idea to check the age and moisture content of the brake fluid and flush clean and replace at regular intervals. If you don't know how long the brake fluid has been in the vehicle or it's close on the moisture or it looks dirty then flush clean and replace ASAP.

ETA: Sorry I missed Warrior193's post when I posted this post. Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Depends on what was used electrically but yes it might have topped the battery up but this might not be to fully recharged and bear in mind a 6 year old battery won't have the capabilities of a new battery. The seatbelt fault might just need the connector firmly pushing together or if the battery has got too low it can put the computer's and their programs on a merge electric diet which they don't like and can cause they to play up. With a battery not too low the computer might reset itself or you might be able to speed things up by clearing any error codes stored.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. My wife has a 2015 Mk3 1.2 TSI (90) and I have years of experience of recharging and reviving car batteries for neighbours and friends. It's all very easy stuff but to do it properly and fully can often require two things that some don't posses - time and patience. I have had a couple of failures where it was just too late or the battery had been flogged to death. If you want to try and revive it I may be able to help you or it might be too late anyway or you may prefer to replace with new now anyway. Do read the (Driver's Handbook) Operator's Manual about battery replacement or ask here if you don't know about things like battery coding on these cars (I didn't). If for any reason you don't have the paper printed copy you can download a pdf copy from the following link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models For the seatbelt warning I don't quite understand what you mean but again I always recommend reading the Driver's Handbook (Operator's Manual) as that gives loads of information and with things like this that don't crop up often you could thinking it does something it doesn't. If you can say which seat and more info on what warning(s), I assume front if your expecting a noise and you go above a certain speed(? I forget the details now, I'd have to be in the car to find out or read the Driver's Handbook) then yes a constant low drain will deplete the battery eventually but a charged or new battery in good condition should take a while. But your battery might be 6 years old of use and abuse, it's not been fully recharged and the very hot and extreme weather we had won't have helped it or the charging system. Fully charging or changing the battery might even help with the seatbelt issue (no guarantees on that though). If you want to read them, as they used to say on Blue Peter, here's two I prepared earlier. - The following also gives different info related to your issues.

Thanks, unfortunately it has to be a Skoda Dealership part that they usually hold or offer as an alternative for the warranty, unless that includes Koni.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I never even though about 16" wheels but where suitable I'm a big fan of smaller, narrower wheels and narrower tyres with sensible (higher) profile sidewalls. As has already been put and on another thread, particularly here the wheels and tyre sizes are often well over the top fashion stuff. With the state of our roads you need all the 'rubber' and air suspension you can get.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you can get a direct connection from the battery to the (disconnected) blower motor and earth you could power up the blower motor to run it for a short time to listen, feel, smell if the motor might be seizing. Obviously do not do it for too long or you might kill the motor/bearing. You can get electric probes that power up things like this too. I do not suppose the blower motor or fan are easy to get at but if the fan and/or motor shaft, and/or motor, are covered in debris this can add weight and take away balance perhaps to the fan and perhaps restrict cooling or build heat for the motor. I use a cheap vacuum cleaner in reverse, connecting the hose (nozzle) to what would normally be the exhaust for vacuuming and this gives a powerful blowing which shifts more dirt, debris and dust than a vacuum cleaner. Any sticking debris I use clean plastic probes of any available source - thin plastic or wood handles or sticks or such like, if long enough ice-cream sticks are handy as they are also nicely rounded at the ends or you can cut them to required shapes Of course the muck goes every where so after (if successful) I would use the vacuum cleaner to vacuum out as much of the disturbed muck as I could and in conjunction with the blower motor running I would vacuum, whilst brushing, one (or set of) vent/outlet at a time with the others closed. The blowing is very powerful so if there are any flimsy parts consider they might get damaged or literally blown away. All a lot easier if you can get the blower unit out and apart. Good luck.

Does anyone know if the factory fitted or 'Skoda' supplied replacement dampers aren't that good and best replaced with non-original equipment dampers or other makes of dampers, not looking for upgrades just good quality. Are the Dealership 'Skoda' replacement dampers best avoided because there are better alternatives the Dealership can offer?

Fine by me but it's up to Spudskoda and then I wonder if someone would say its (forget the word, like spamming(?)) having the same thread subject in three different threads. I'm never against cross-referencing information, I often do it with hyperlinks then the reader can decide if they want to go there.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Now you have the general overall information you might be best putting up a thread in the appropriate Superb section and see what other 4x4 owners find to be a quiet and/or recommended tyre. Bear in mind a tyre that was great bought two years ago could have changed in it's build (or model) and you can get varations from just production too Hope I've got the correct model for a quick look here too (with all the previous proviso from my last post. - https://www.tyrereviews.com/Tyres_For/Skoda/Superb-II-4x4-2.0tdi.htm

@D.FYLAKTOS do these relays relate to the heater/fresh air blower motor then, with or without air-con?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi, welcome. Until someone better gets here my general thoughts. Poor electrical connections sounds likely, don't forget any earths, check wires and connections, including the fuse and it's connections (I do not think or know if there is a relay). Does the fan stop at particular circumstances - hot - cold, immediately - after a time, dry -wet conditions, car running - not running, car being driven - parked up. If so try to replicate these conditions whilst doing your visual and electrical test (multimeter) by wiggling, apply heat or cold, obviously you need to be careful about replicating wet. You want all connections to be clean, secure and protected and wires at least secure and protected. Disconnect the connectors give them a good visual inspection, clean them with electrical contact cleaner and apply tests to pins and sockets, apply a protectant if you have it before reconnecting the connectors. Check the fuse and it's connections. Wires again a good visual inspection, as much as possible unclip from clips and check all around wires, look for anywhere the wires might rub through on anything (perhaps if routed incorrectly or the wire or something else is not clipped when it should be or fixed or routed wrong). That is me out of ideas.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @SurreyJohn I agree with you. But the link for the German motoring magazine appears to just be Mr. Triceps of Tyre Reviews. Personally I don't think his testing is over closely related to really world road UK driving and I don't know if the track has the same sort of surface materials as a typical UK road (or the potholes) - but I could be wrong. Perhaps his tests are a reasonable guide or reasonable rough guide particularly if you have the same car as he tests with. Also the public reviews on his site do need to be studied for same vehicle and driving style and allow for it mostly being subjective, and the same tyre's use and wear will vary a lot with the car owners.. Tyres are a lot more complex car component than most people realise so in practice you do have to deal with generalisations unless you have the resources of things like a tyre company or wealthy race team. In the end its all a bit of a gamble and you just try to increase your odds before buying but often you don't really know until you get close to replacing the tyre again and often by that time the same tyre has changed in some way so you start over.

Sorry, right. No not this video, I've been following this chap as he makes videos of the simpler stuff that will help and may be of interest to those that don't know too much about driver maintenance on their cars, like myself. I've had three lifetimes of bad, ****-poor and abysmal car parts I could have done loads of videos without any set ups but many would have thought they must have been faked. Even some decent or reasonable manufacturers or suppliers would take some convincing it was their product at fault and not me, the installation or my vehicle. I've had 1 in 5,000s, 2 in 20,000 and 20 years on low volume production stuff but most often with other manufactures or suppliers just the usual "you're the first . . .". 😒

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I'd forgotten about that, thanks, plus aren't the tests done on new or not too used tyres, I forget as I too thought it's quite meaningless to the consumer and it must go back a few years now. .

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Swings and roundabouts - still best to fit and test otherwise those in the motor trade or selling the struts would say you didn't fit to see. Are your arms/chest/shoulders energy measurement calibrate to be dead-on balls accurate? - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hzfQ0NFNF3g

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The fit was fine, correct part, first test on opening found the issue - even you wouldn't have seen anything wrong without testing. The point of the video was to show how to find the part number to order the replacement then how easy it is to remove the existing struts and fit the new struts. But it's instructional and useful to know that despite doing things right you can get shoddy goods and very poor service to balls things up for you and then the hassle of trying to get your money back and find somewhere with struts that work as they should and a seller that isn't unresponsive if they don't. Not something you should have to think about but that's how it is.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. One - but it does depend on the colour of the car. Any clean black item makes what's around it look better and cleaner, note the rear tyre and bumper on the white car compared with the front tyre and bumper. Large black items like tyres, bumpers, roofs if black and clean really standout even if they're fully noticeable as such. I didn't get a chance to clean my wife's Fabia today (would have been about second or third time this year if I had) so I just cleaned the tyres, wheels - always noticeable, lights, number plates, windows (except windscreen) and door mirrors and lights as all these are bright and reflective areas so look good clean. From a distance the car looks clean, it is not as the paintwork is very dusty and a bit dirty but luckily blue is good for not showing the dirt too much. Also a safety thing, see and be seen to clean the lights, door mirrors and lights and number plates, along with the windows but they're not usually very dirty being on the side and rear has a wiper.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. There's a video of a set that open the large tailgate so violently that you watch the rear suspension lift, if unrestrained or not replaced I'd guess eventually there'd eventually be some stress damaged on something, and the seller doesn't respond or reply to the buyer, I think eBay sorted it but I could wrong (about all). .

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I don't know if things have changed with the tyre label testing but when it first came out you needed to take the test results label with a pinch of salt, a tyre I had on previously had below average ratings yet it was the best tyre I ever had on the car, the replacement tyre scored higher on the labelling (not that I took too much notice of that) but was lower ratings than the previous tyre in my experience of driving the car with them fitted. Perhaps things have changed and improved with the label ratings but roottoot's post doesn't suggest so. Tyres not designed for sports style driving or those designed not to wear the tread too much generally to me are often nosier. Comfort tyres of a good make tend to be comfortable and less nosier but you'd have to check with drivers of your model and style of driving in the same size as you want. Even a tyre of the same make and model may vary within the range of sizes. We're just about to change tyres that are only just 5 years old (fitted 4.5 years ago) still with plenty of tread left but splitting on the sidewalls, the car sits outside and the tyres only run 32k-miles, not a good combination, so we don't need to worry about very hard wearing tread too much.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi Jim, is the red ! by itself or in shape? Do any other warning lights show at the time or are on when they should be off? Have you got a copy of the Driver's Handbook to look at to see what the dash warnings are? Could it be brakes - fluid low, handbrake light, pads low - can't think of anything else just now.