nta16

Offsets are shown on the wheel, perhaps on the inside often. In the table given they're the ET numbers. There's a wheel width and offset calculator on that AlloyWheels.com site (not working at this very moment though to link to). Plenty of sites explain width and offset, here's one example. - https://www.oponeo.co.uk/blog/wheel-width-and-et-offset-explained I'm not sure what you mean by weight ratings - but for racing and "boy racing" purposes the ideal is to keep the unsprung weight as low as possible, that's the weight before the car's road springs like tyres and wheels. This of course can mean larger wheels and tyres can weight more so the larger wheels can be less sturdily made, not a good idea on the roads we now have but I don't think this would apply too much to the average 18" and 17" wheels here.

The designers already oversized the wheels for fashion, fashion often has less regard to function. They could fill out the wings to reduce the gaps also or as was once the fashion put covers (spats) over them. Under the wheel arch is a gap distance from the arch to the tyre this is obviously is to allow for movement from the suspension and body, this is for loading and travelling the vehicle. The more you fil that gap in height and width the less the range of movement available. The Superb is a big car so potentially could be filled with people and luggage perhaps a roof rack too and/or towing. Lots for the engineers to consider, not all of the considerations of course apply to all of the end users. The use may include going over humps, over rough road surfaces or those with potholes, getting mud or snow build up under the arches and other stuff I can't think of now. I'm not an expert in anything but I thought 4x4 or is it (all-wheel-drive) you want tyres that are matched to in size and type to help maintain the drive system. And I too thought the ABS interacts with the traction control, the VW computer programs in general seem very intertwined. Some people find the larger wheels with ribbon tyres not only less practical but also a lot less comfortable, of course tyre selection would be a part of this, some even consider going to, or back to, the smaller sized wheels (Mk2 not 3). -

Good to know. I've had mudflaps on a few cars before and I'm not sure they do a lot and less depending on the car they're fitted to. If yours don't stop the dirt much then unless they stop chipping the minuses could be more than any plusses. They can cause more mud and snow build up and they could cause more drag lowering your mpg (whether noticeable for you I don't know). The flaps look reasonably high in those photos (unless it's just the angles of the shots) so could it be the humps are high, car over-laden, tired springs, going too fast or any permutation of combination of listed.

My wife's 2015 1.2TSI has all sorts of different noises at different times coming from the engine bay, they might include an a/c whistle/whine but I've never lifted the bonnet to investigate it. If no one else replies or knows try posting a video of the sound from inside the car with the engine running, all windows closed and a/c on with blower at 1 and I'll try to see how it compares with her car. It doesn't matter for a sound recording but if you get into the habit of holding the phone for landscape (instead of portrait) there's more in the video image so more can be seen and perhaps info seen and given. Even though it's one leaf now having something to remove it with might help more later when more leaves and debris can block flow to the rads (and even Front Assist as we found). Another tip, new or old check your car's battery state of charge and if required recharge now before the shorter days and colder weather, just driving around often will not recharge the battery enough - don't think just because you've bought the car from a dealer that the battery must be or in a good condition.

Try again -

I was going to put I just hooked you up with the info but apparently hooked up means something different in modern parlance. In case you can't see it my tag line is - Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you've got a standard car (with standard hubs, and I'm not sure why they'd not be unless it's a track car) then standard specification wheels for your model will fit without modifications. There's a wheel 'Width & Offset Calculator' on that AlloyWheels.com site. 225 or 205 is the (nominal) (cross section) width of the tyre in millimetres measured from the tyre’s inner sidewall to its outer sidewall, so 225 is 20mm wider than 205, in itself it doesn't mean a lot but it will also relate to tyre 'profile' ('aspect ratio' - tyre sidewall height in relation to tyre width as a percentage) in tyres available and specified for the vehicle. - https://www.uniroyal-tyres.com/car/tyre-guide/tyre-knowledge/what-does-tyre-size-mean If you have the "168 hp | 125 kW | 170 PS" version then the tyres on that site (which I've just noticed you can notify them of any mistakes) have the 17" wheels with 225/45 ZR 17 tyres, if that confirms with the Owner's Manual then that's the size to go with. HTH, if not just ask, but bear in mind I'm not an expert - other than being expert in not being so. 🙃

Could you perhaps change to different 18" tyres if they're recommended as being quieter and more comfortable? Now I've put that, what I think - even 17" wheels are oversized in my opinion but it's been the fashion for decades now to have oversized wheels and silly low and ultra low and over-wide tyres, especially given the quality of our roads let alone the noise and 'rubber' bits polluting (relatively) more. See here for info on wheels and tyres (I do not know the accuracy but I trust you check any information you get, particularly off the net, down the pub, or from me). - https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/superb/2011/ Have a look in your Driver's Handbook (Owner's Manual) and see what the alternatives were. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models I'd stick with what Skoda specify as that's what the car and all the computer programs have been design for. As you probably know one of the great joys of 4X4 (often another fashion accessory to me) is that's it's best/necessary to change the tyres in sets of four to help the transmission/drive and keep the computers happy. If you want to learn more have a look at the 'Features' links at the bottom of this Homepage for various calculators that will show how to get much of the information (if you don't have the manufacturer's recommendations). - https://alloywheels.com/ There are sales facilities on this site that you can use to sell your present wheels and tyres. Good luck.

No problem at all, as I put IIRC the difference would be about 3%, as with you I've no bee in my headwear just thought the five decimal places Excel gave was unnecessary given the rounding Don was using. The tyre calculator I linked to seems good enough to me and saves opening Excel, note I'm biased as I can't stand Excel and my wife uses it a lot and her brother is literally an expert in Excel, so really I'm just jealous, but I did once know how to use Access 97. Take as much or little of the following links as you want. But neither give an explanation of rolling circumference, which that site I mentioned before did, my go at it, Look at a tyre on the car, it's flat at the bottom so not a circle, imagine the tread of the tyre cut and laid out on the ground and then looped as a tank/JCB track, the tyre rotates like (a near circular) track rather than a pure circle. Gawd I hope someone gives a better explanation than that (you can see why I can't use Excel). 😬 From a "math" teacher. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yWBiefjBkfs Uniroyal with a formula. - https://www.uniroyal-tyres.com/car/tyre-guide/tyre-knowledge/calculating-the-tyre-size

@EnterName I'd not bother with more than one, or two, decimal places as the figures give for tyres sizes are nominal and can vary with make and model, then you have to allow for rolling circumference (about 3% IIRC). There used to be an excellent amateur site with a great explanation and tables but when he went commercial I think he probably couldn't use the tables at least as he might have lifted them from others.

@Donweather what are you trying to achieve, is this just a fashion thing or are you after more grip and better handling in which case it's the design, construction and composition of the tyre that matters rather than size. ETA: I assume you do not have a 4X4. You need to allow for rolling circumference. See here for details. - https://alloywheels.com/tyreCalculatorResults2

I was going to ask why you thought you needed breakdown cover but now I understand but wow it doesn't say a lot when you can't trust 3 year old cars. Audis you'd want extended cover. I'd say next year when possibly values are lower look at older more reliable Toyotas or Hondas models. Personally I'd definitely not be looking at any cars made during the chips shortages and Covid altered assembly workforce from any manufacturer. Very low mileage isn't always a good thing especially if it includes lots of sort journey - check out the state of charge of your battery, without the engine running, a few hours after it's been parked and if it's low recharge it, just driving it around often isn't enough. The very hot weather we had was very unkind to car batteries. If you're getting shot of it next year your main concern ought to just be not damaging any components like wheels, steering, suspension by stuff like crashing up kerbs, and of always that your brakes (tyres) are in good condition for safety. Then I suppose dents and scratches on the paintwork and thigs like that.

A software error, I've never heard of such, "switching it off 'n' on agen" sorting anything is surely myth, VW's computer programs getting their underwear knotted, surely not. I'm all for disconnecting the battery, draining the force from VW's finest evils and wiping codes if any existing. Anything that's cheap, quick and easy is always first on my list, though taking the dash out is a bit of effort. Sexy complicated stuff is beyond me and I leave to those better than myself. Personally I always feel like "rebooting" the car and its computer programs.

A tip - rather than having a spare key/remote use both keys/remotes in some sort of alternating rotation that way both keys/remotes wear evenly, the batteries, remotes and key blades, you also know where the "spare key" is (it's not mislaid) and that it works properly.

Unpluging and replugging a good few times is often a basic form of cleaning on some connectors, I often say that servicing, maintenance and repairs on cars often boils down to cleaning and lubricating, even electronically with clearing codes. Hope it lasts and well done on sorting it. 👍

Hi, welcome, There are some very clever electrical and computer people on here and I'm neither (or with anything else) but I'd have thought a fully loaded VCDS might narrow the search down as the possibilities are electrical or computer commination with wire(s) and connection(s)/connector(s) or simply perhaps even mechanical with the dial as it's a physical item. Ask your friend to do a full report at plug in to see what history you might find. Do you have any history on the car or access to the virtual service record to look at. That's it, until someone better turns up. Good luck. Some useful links in case you don't have them - PDF of Owner's Manual (a valuable source of information) - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models 'Recall actions' - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-actions Users Software updates - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/

Graham, in case I've forgot to put it before - different model but I have seen someone else put where they had problems with the battery monitoring system, some sort of hardware IIRC so ask about that at the Dealership in case there's a known issue or possible fault there. As you know manufacturers are loathed to issues "recalls" or let slip any TSB issues but you could check here generally anyway, if you've not already. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-actions And customer use software updates. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/

One of the best things to do with a car that you are keeping, if only 2-3 years, is give the whole car (not just engine) a full service and check then you know it has been done and when and to what quality. You can often get surprising improvements on a used car you do not really know the full history of by doing a good service. Some do not believe in servicing or preventative maintenance at all and just drive the car and deal with whatever turns up (if it does) at that time, sometimes there can be merit in this system but a lot can depend on your experience and knowledge of running and repairing a car. Most servicing and maintenance (and often too repairs) just boil down to clean and lubricate (even electronically) and some, much, or perhaps later even all, you could do yourself but personally if you didn't want to get dirty I would not blame you as cars are very dirty and messy and I always try avoid this as much as possible when possible, how others get their kicks or income is up to them. And here endeth today's sermon, all rise and sing hym number one, Driving in my car.

Now you'll get me in trouble for thread drift - early 1980s, IIRC I had to go to Long Eaton, Nottingham way, and waiting at a bus stop this coach pulled up, bit younger than the one in your photo, I thought how posh for a bus service as I was used to "green" and "red" buses like the ones in your photos and didn't seem younger than those but I think they were driver only by then. Ah, the wisdom of age, when you were younger at work you'd have carried on and if you broke it blamed it on something else or the apprentice, unless you were the apprentice at the time and then the buck stopped. 😄

So what year of car has the OP bought?

@Posthuman just for information, and next car purchase, nothing to get scared about, in case you might (no need to sleep with the light on). (12-18k-miles) Reasonable to good, depending on the type of mileage over what time period, more attention than some owners would give. (48k-miles) Air filter change, if first time, would be a bit late at that for me (but I would change sooner and more often than most owners) might even be a little t bit beyond Skoda recommendation but I don't know for your country and model. I am not sure what you mean by clutch oil. (75k-miles) Sparkplugs depends on the plugs and if it was the first time of changing, with my wife's Mk3 it would be second time of changing (standard plugs). Air filter at 44,000 km (27k-miles) seems good (depending on the condition of the filter). (91k-miles) Brake fluid change depends on whether that was the first time it had been changed or just the last recorded change, Good that it has been changed, some people do not bother service schedule would be about every 2 years or 32,000km (20k-miles) whichever is sooner but many might think that far too soon and the brake fluid might have been changed when other work was done on the brakes. And at least it was changed but that was 32,000km ago so when you have things more sorted remember brakes are always a priority. As I said before engines are not a top priority, yes you do want them running as well as is reasonable and not to breakdown but give thought to the priorities I gave before.

The scan tool isn't for the camchain, just sometimes there can be more than one thing going on at once, and information from the scan tool may help to confirm or repute the chain or associated. It's to counterbalance your carefree and over cheery attitude. 🤣 🤣 And thank you for backing up my earlier comment.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. IIRC Skoda (VW?) did have an issue with factory fitted batteries, possibly even with the Mk3 Fabia as the battery we got was a number of pounds less weeks later, possibly because of supply and demand because of problem above - but I can't remember the details and may have misremembered or been on a mental visit to Fantasy Island again, I'm rarely as certain as many others.

😆 Yeah I should have separated out the first sentence, I put my hands up you got me. Sort of drifting off trying to help you, if you'd sooner just report that's fine, not here to point score - if I was I'd have to look at a draw as I can disconnect the battery monitor connector. 🤣 I do know a very little about buses as I live close to a bus route and occasionally use them, regularly in the past. Even have weekends away, with others, on a 1961 Bristol single-decker, Gardner 7l, 5, 82(?)hp IIRC, just as a passenger, though my wife's driven it from one village to another. 24v. The air-con was on this summer - windows open. 😁 I also wouldn't overtighten the post clamp nuts. That battery was almost spotless compared to my neighbour's and his engine bay, I had to clean the battery just to get the extra weight off it so I could lift it with my feeble arms (shoulders and chest muscle groups). Be interesting to see if you get ripped for that, I've been scorned for a similar sort of suggestion. You might become "Batteryman 2", too. 😆

It can be difficult to diagnosis a fault just by listening to a video - although some here may be able to with experience and a reasonable sound quality on their device, an engine builder may know within a fraction of a second. I would not have a clue what the cause of the sound(s) will be. Don't despair yet and try to avoid jumping to conclusions without more information. If you could give as much information as you can, reply to rootoot's questions, and if you could find someone with an appropriate level scan tool that can give you a health report (error codes) and if possible check live data but if the car and engine is in front of a good mechanic they might be able to hear what is wrong and just need to confirm their diagnosis.

Denmark.