nta16

I knew what you meant , I only put M100 to save the fragile sensitivity of some earlier Elan owners. The possibly alternator not charging is fair enough but losing battery power whilst in storage on a maintenance charger suggest lack of at least visual checking, but it depends on what the contract for storage actually incudes. 400 out of 550 is still 72% so top end of my neighbour's Ring SmartCharger manual's check - "Good >74%, check 50-74%". Of course figures are just figures and it depends on a lot of circumstances. It's rare to get a faulty battery but not so uncommon to get faulty vehicle owners (or sometimes those they entrust their vehicle to). This gut sounds like he's got loads of money just get a new bigger better battery and don't fit it until the problem has been found that recondition the existing battery and pass it on or use it as a power source for something else. I'm looking to be adopted to have someone to do the stuff I don't want to do (which is everything with cars) - have you considered another child? 😁

I'm gonna wear Google out looking up all these words you heducated lot throw up.

Live data is good, it can tell you that a leg is being swung with a boot on the end at your nether region, the smell and light wallet is your biological computer reacting to the sensation from groin to head, never dismiss it and possibly take it as conformation. 😉 The newer car computer programs tell you a lot more but always question the information they give, computers running the car wot could possibly go wrong. 🤣

Sheer coincidence, this afternoon I saw what looked like a VW Polo or Golf (difficult to tell) just in front of a big black cloud of smoke, previously the other two I've noticed have been Audi and I assumed they lacked servicing and use, perhaps I was wrong and the owners had idiotic beliefs in this area, obviously not also cyclist or pedestrians.

Good news, you have it sorted it and learnt that computer program error codes and warnings are not the be all and end all but to use your human senses, eyes, ears, smell, (taste and touch) and your biological computer, your brain. You can see the car's using too much fuel with your eyes, and work it out with your brain with simple maths. Look at it this way, a computer might tell you a kick in the gonads isn't that bad and you'll get over it but whether you've ever suffered such or not your brain should say to deeply avoid it - though engineers and mechanics might argue around the outcome. 🤣

We were out on a run with our friends in their M100 today (for a short time they had two). That's 77%, according to my neighbour Ring SmartCharger manual - "Good >74%, check 50-74%". Sounds a very good idea to me, but I bet he doesn't bother and when the battery drops again he'll say charging didn't achieve much! Any chance you could dust the seat of his trousers with your boot. 😊 Good idea about the WSM, I thought it was old Italian cars that had black wires, I think the Lotus will have many factory original colours and gawd knows what else added by previous owners I can't think what but no doubt it has lots of stock bin parts from various other vehicle manufacturers. I'm sure it'd be an absolute joyous adventure of discovery.

@rum4mo so he's got a static garage ornament, it's also an old Lotus, stands to reason that if he only has the usual Lotus issues it's going to seem a lot more because of the static to moving ratio. I don't like the sound of this guy at all, keep an eye on him. 8 amps!! You'll overheat the Lotus wiring with that sort of power! I knew someone in the club who had an Elan +2, Spyder chassis and Zetec engine conversion, the few times he drove it it always started and ran, of course he sold it as he never used it. The one and only reason to have a toy/fun car to me is to drive it, but each to their own.

Temperature in Melbourne tomorrow forecast at 8c-14c, Northampton 16c-35c. Good for some but not for me I'm driving in it with only 4/60 air-con which only operate whilst moving.

Yes I was wondering about the AC stopping the start/stop and could try it if in the car with the current (far too high for me) temperatures, but I'd probably forget. I'm sure you'll never out-think the VW computer programs, I'm sure The Terminator's Skynet will develop from VW's previous cheat programs and all programs since. 😉

I also meant to add, when I put I'd give up on the Dealership for now I only meant with regard to the battery charging, they ought to replace the battery if required given what's been done so far but don't hold your breath and they probably throw in the cheapest they could get away with. Also recharging the battery fully and properly, if it can be, or fitting a suitable new battery doesn't exclude any other underlying problems like with the charging system, or as before the battery control module, or any other computer component or programming. But having a battery that is properly fully charged, or new, will help with any sort of diagnostics. Just properly fully charging the battery, or if required replacing with new, will often sort many issues, then perhaps deleting error codes can speed up getting back to normal running and where they appear without warnings or codes. You may also need to check for any constant draws, like a dashcam that never rests, and any drains that should be there, not so easy with the very modern cars but a Dealership should know an expert to bring in if they haven't one of their own - or they don't allow their staff enough training, time or equipment to do diagnosis properly.

Possibly the dealership didn't do a good job of checking your battery or the charging system or charging the battery up. Often a low slow low recharge is required particularly if that's how the battery drained. And the battery charges better in milder conditions, not too hot or cold. ETA: the unusual very hot weather here in the UK will be making batteries, and charging systems suffer, many will be changing their batteries now (many of those unnecessarily as they probably could have been saved especially if where required they were recharged correctly) and those not changed now may well be changed in autumn and winter when the days shorten and we get colder wetter weather. It maybe that your battery has had it by the way it has been treated or ignored by the dealership - but I've saved some of my neighbour's batteries just by the use of old charger and patience (can take up to over a couple days with the battery charged off the car) but I've lost a couple that were too far gone. You also want the charging system checked. If the dashcam is on there is a constant drain and if the battery is still low because of a quick shallow recharge then it's like filling a bucket with a hole in it. I'd give up on the Dealership for now and buy or borrow an appropriate battery charger for the battery and start a long. low, slow recharge or try recondition/revitalise/wotever-it's-called setting on the charger. Preferably battery charged off the car in stable suitable conditions. Some fancy chargers can also carry out alternator checks to. Or you may decide you'd soon just go with a new battery but good ones are expensive and you might revive your existing battery.

For your information. The label on your existing battery shows 380 A (DIN standard) and 680 A (EN SAE standards). And is an AGM.

Different regions of the world might have different batteries used. As with a lot else in life you don't just go by numbers what you want is a good make and model of battery that will retain its performance for as long as possible. 74Ah is just as it seems over 70Ah provided the battery retains this for a reasonable life, 680CCA looks lower but there are different standards of measuring this (same for 380CCA). If they have not already done so tell they you want a good quality battery that works well for as long as possibly rather than a lower priced battery, that will work out more expensive and more hassle overall. Do check that you are being offered a EFB or AGM battery and not this (from the Tayna list under standard 096 batteries) - E11 VARTA BLUE DYNAMIC CAR BATTERY 12V 74AH (574012068) (096) - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/e11/ https://www.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/products/varta-blue-dynamic/574-012-068 https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/096/

True but the link goes to a list of AGM batteries of different makes and figures and the post in this thread didn't give where the location was but I did wonder. Well my wife's 2015 had a Moll EFB and I did wonder whether that'd also be the case for a 2016 so did put unless the current AGM battery wasn't original and perhaps a very cheap one at that (if they exist) as potentially this will be a second replacement when many would still be approaching their first replacement but it can depend on a lot of circumstances particular how the owner/driver uses the car and it's electrical storage. The chap in front of me at Halfords had a car battery on his shoulder and when I said to the chap on the till that I expected they were selling a lot of car batteries because of the weather he said yes, and lots of wiper blades as they were getting stuck to the screen, or that's what I thought he said.

Millers Oils gives extreme pressure (EP) lithium grease in various NLGI numbers "Multi-purpose lithium soap thickened grease with extreme pressure performance, available in a range of NLGI numbers" - does Haynes give any number. I've found the 1973 and 1980 copies of Haynes for my vehicle has copied errors and omissions and can over explain the simple but under explain the more complex, so not a fan, useful if checked and cross referenced but it's the same often even for the car manufacturer's workshop manuals too. Hopefully a more knowledgeable person will now be along to help you.

If you want to renew, if you've got a place(s) nearby that make and install custom exhausts say for modified modern or classic cars then ask them as they can be good value and offer a well made custom product that'll be a better fit than most off-the-shelf boxes and you could have it same size as original but of even better material and if you want even quieter.

Probably best for you to get a new battery, you want another AGM battery of the same AH and CCA, unless your current AGM battery wasn't original and a very cheap one (if they exist). The general opinion is that you don't have to recode the battery as long as it's the same as the previous battery in type as the computer program will 'learn' of the battery improvement just that the recoding will be instant. To possibly help with other warnings and error codes whilst the battery is disconnected - [ETA: - carefully bridge/join the positive and negative battery leads post clamps together to complete a circuit ] - turn the headlights on, for say 5 seconds, to empty any electric left, or with the ignition on press the brake pedal down to light up the brake bulbs for a few seconds had the if the battery not been disconnected, don't forget to turn off the headlights or ignition before you fit the new battery. Alarm is probably a different issue come back to that with a new thread after you've changed your battery. Tayna Batteries, Skoda Fabia diesel AGM list. - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/096-agm/

If you've not left it too later then try a full proper recharge of the battery, preferably off the car and the recharge as long low and slow as reasonably possibly on an appropriate charger, overnight or much more if possible, not a few hours or just driving the car around. Otherwise just replace the battery with a new one. Whichever, next time don't leave it so long to recharge the battery , new or not, and remember just because the car starts and the lights seem bright enough it does not mean that you haven't depleted the battery. The recent very hot weather (depending on where you are) will have done your battery and charging systems no favours at at all especially after your treatment of both. You are a very naughty boy!

Rather than just keeping faded till receipts keep a file of the car's general history (MoTs, "road tax") as well as receipts and print outs for parts and materials (but not trivia like every light bulb) and keep it in a folder with individual leaves/envelopes in reverse chronological order with a summary of the main points at the front showing what was done at what time and mileage, plus the latest MoT, "road tax", V5C. Most potentials buyers are well impressed with this. Plus it means you can quickly reference relevant information a potential buyer might ask or when search for relevant history yourself..

You'll make yourself as unpopular me if you carry on criticizing VW and any of their products and besmirching any German engineering quality and not wearing your rose-tinted glasses. 😄

When I read that linked thread I'm sure(?) it had that even a tiny amount of petrol would ignite the oil? Well I find it strange/unusual/different that VW insist on their number specification VW 50* *** and not give a viscosity and have this different oils for different services which does make sense but confuses a lot of their customers but the German engineers work their way to get the fabled (in perhaps both senses of the word) engineering quality. Large vehicle manufacturers having a commercial relationship with oil companies or blenders doesn't mean the oil they use or recommend is necessarily the best or most cost effective for consumers (and I don't mean cheapest to buy is best). Most car owners, and many engineers and mechanics, couldn't care less about which oil and to some extent with a match of a modern car to the appropriate spec of modern oil I think it falls into belief more than facts, such as they might be.

As said it does depend on what type of mileage the 5 or 10k-miles are, if they include lots of very short journeys then there will be relatively more wear on the engine and for the sake of a better word wear on the oil. With very short journeys the oil may not get up to a a good operating temperature or for long enough with the oil not flowing and protecting as well and perhaps not clearing any moisture fully. Have a look at the oil temperature on your gauge, on my wife's 2015 1.2 TSI (90) Fabia it shows a two line dashes until 50c, the book has normal range 80c-110c and not to push or strain the car outside of that range. What is important to oil changes is the thoroughness of the change and the quality of the oil to the vehicle's use and way it's driven. Quick cold oil changes will probably leave in the engine a greater amount of used oil and its containments as residue which means there will be less fresh new going in so the effects of the oil change are more diluted. A hot longer drain will probably get more existing engine oil and its containments out meaning less residue so more fresh new oil goes in. Modern oils of the correct type for the vehicles are fairly equal but some are more equal than others many engineers and mechanics will say to put in whatever you can get cheap and not to change too often. Personally the way I expect my car to perform and having had many experiences of component and systems failures and breakages I prefer the additional wider protection of a better oil and thorough oil changes. To really know when it's best to change the oil, and potentially engine condition, you'd analysis the oil, you can get kits or some garages may have and used them, serious stuff would be sent off to a lab but probably not necessary or cost effective for ordinary road cars. ETA: I've already changed the oil on my wife's 2015 Fabia gearbox oil and am about to change the oil in the rear axle of my car, the mere thought of either would give many engineers and mechanics the vapours. 🤣

I don't know but would think the power and torque curves and ands are different on your 1.4TDI (90) to my wife's 1.2 TSI (90) making perhaps a 1,000 revs pull different on the two cars but I don't and perhaps the computer programs compensate for any difference anyway. If I drive the car tomorrow I'll see what it pulls at 1,000 revs in each gear and if it slows from any creep up in speed but it does depend on the traffic at the time.

My wife's 2015 Fabia is the most modern car we've had, her previous car was new but that was in 2008, my car (or some bit of it) was an old design even when it was new in 1973. I've always though German engineering quality was very often overrated but have been surprised by the noises from the Fabia particularly from the engine bay, they vary and change too. Again I think that might often be the overcomplicated, over-intrusive, intertwined computer programs going about their business. As we have to turn sharp off the hardstanding on to the road I let the car pull itself along then but I don't drive the Fabia too often and also I'm used to driving on the throttle rather than over braking so wouldn't be going at 1,000 revs. I too hear the gearbox and linkage(?) from gear changes (5-speed manual, with standard clutch and flywheel). I think a lot of the computer programming over the years would also be about systems developments for future needs and integration of systems - and of course perhaps hiding any cheats. 😆

Tut, tut, Ken you didn't call it anti-stall before but something like idle-stabilisation. 😉 I think it's possibly a, or part of, one of the very many VW over complicated computer programs, whether they decided to program this in just for itself or part of one or more of the very many program I'd not have a clue. The car has an adjustable speed limiter anyway and whether its a good idea overall for the engine (and computer programs?) (driver?) to be constantly chugging along at 1,000 revs I'm not sure.