nta16

In my opinion whether your son is new to driving or has learnt in, and drives, a modern car a 1998 car is fine for him and will teach him more about driving and road sense than (almost) all more modern cars. In many ways the older car will be safer as the driver knows about the lack of modern safety and also doesn't have to worry about or (over) rely on all the over-interfering modern car features, "assists" and "aids" which make the driver more of a passenger so less safe to be in charge of the car, and possibly distracted playing around with its toys instead. Also with an older car, particularly one that needs repairs, the driver learns proper driver maintenance and servicing which modern cars still need despite many modern drivers thinking it's not the driver's responsibility. Personally I think it would be good if all youngsters initially learnt to drive and maintain old cars before moving on to a modern car so that they have better basic knowledge and understanding and experience of driving a car and being a driver. Won't be long before, like most Americans, drivers can't use a manual gearbox (not a good thing given the issues with modern automatic type box and their electronic masters. And the joy of mechanical handbrake control (and not for doughnuttin' or J-turns!). Too much safety can make some driver's too complacent and reckless and that's when accidents happen and it's not always them that suffer the most, or at all. He'll learn about braking distances, difference road and weather conditions make - and to look out for idiot drivers and to avoid them. IF in the Czech Republic is like the UK with old cars then an old VWŠkoda would be greeted well on the road, at least by older drivers and pedestrians, waves and greetings being let out of side streets, conversations at petrol stations and garages, every one with a story about when they or someone they know/knew had one. Very different to being in a more modern car.

I used to do notes for newbies who like me weren't very mechanical but I no longer have most of them but if you want to PM?DM? me I'll give you the few that's left. Great to hear your son will be doing the work and not you, offering guidance is fine (until its no longer wanted/needed 😄) but hands on experience is what's needed. Tell your son it's not always fun to find out for himself and it's a lot cheaper to learn by the experience of others. The 'Owner's Manual' would be very useful especially if your son wasn't driving such vehicles back then. Good luck.

Quick thoughts. Is the VCDS program up to date for the car. Laptop battery to low. Have you checked car battery voltage at connections to confirm as good. See if attached helps. - VCDS How to adapt a new battery.pdf Or there's a VCDS forum on this site. - Diagnostics & VCDS - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ HTH.

Tyres are a very underrated very complex car component and even the same make and model of tyre will vary within its range of sizes. You could ask insurers about tyres but their answers tend to vary on many matter of the insurance hence the varying premiums. But I can't see an insurer being upset if the only difference is one step up in Load Index and I'd be ery surprised you'd notice much if any difference when driving. (unless there's a big difference in design, tread, compound and composition of the 84 tyre to 88 tyre). Just changing from worn to new tyres if you have chosen correctly should give you better braking, steering, suspension, handling, ride comfort and noise. Alignment change if it was required would also help to some extent. If you want to know more loads of info in the 'Tyres & Wheels' forum on this site. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/213-tyres-wheels/ HTH.

I always recommend you carry out a staggered full 36,000-mile (60,000km) service of the whole car in between driving the car. Priorities to check and service or repair as required are brakes, steering and suspension (all three include tyres) safety electrics (lights, horn. wipers, blower, etc.) reflective number plates (see and be seen). A 12v battery in good state of charge and health is always best, also helps with diagnosis of starting, electric and electronic issues. Check all cables, wire, connections are all clean, secure and protected. Engine, gearbox (diff) - replace oils and filter(s) and as much as possible and practical clean and flush. Replace plugs and other ignition parts as required. Clean fuel system (replace filter) as possible, check fuel pump. Cooling/heating system - clean, flush, back-flush, flush again, refill engine block, radiator, pipes and matrix. Clean external rad fins and grille. Thermostat, sensors and water pump as required. Power steering - flush replace fluid. Actually frequent regular use of the car will help you to sort the car and learn how to drive it and what it is capable of, once fully(?) sorted you don't need to treat it much different to when it was used when new. Keep letting us know how things are going.

Sorry I wasn't sure if it was you with a different engine. The chaps have given a good thing to check based on their knowledge and ownership experiences. Don't rely on lights lighting up to warn you, wrongly, they used to be known as idiot lights over here, same for the warnings and lights on your modern car, they'll flash up like an Xmas tree if you let the 12v battery get just slightly low in state. It can be handy to have two people at a start up like this to look under the bonnet and exhaust as that can sometimes give clues. Subject to checking everything, particularly all the safety components and systems and not just engine, the car needs taking for reasonable distance drives to get things fully warmed up and moving more freely and to test all and find wrinkles and niggles and faults and give an order of attention priority or need. Off topic A mate had the first of the BMW MINI John Cooper Works, he got it very early and took it to a show and won a 1st Prize with it at an owner's show. He did keep his cars very clean and polished but never usually put them in shows as he knew more about the cars (BMC/BL Minis too) than concours judges but he told me the cup would add to the premium for the car when he sold it.

Wasn't just Jags it was all old British cars and motorbikes, of course this was good British design and build, constant change of lubrication. IIRC(?) with old Jags they more sent the oil out of the exhaust. Sometimes black smoke if E-type with triple SUs set up by an owner that shouldn't have.

Quick thoughts. What needs rectifying, you put it was fine, do you mean you still have the crank-but-not-starting-for-a-long-time? What basics have you covered such as age and type of petrol (I've forgot already what engine is fitted, injection or carb), others will remember plus there are threads and posts on such an issue but they can tend to be long as specifics and details are missing at the start of the threads and really being remote from the vehicle questions and answers are usually need. Have you fitted new parts, how well did the engine start previous to this. Fuel, ignition, compression.

Hi, welcome. If you've not already seen it as well as all the other sections and forums on Briskoda there is an Octavia section including for Mk2s. HTH. 'Škoda Octavia' section. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/169-%C5%A1koda-octavia/

All that bluff and technical blinding to get to the real reason. 😄

Thanks for reporting back and giving the information you found. Interesting exercise, well done on completing it. Very involved and time consuming though, particularly if the result is the same as finding the (majority at least) information that has already been posted on here. AI may be correct this time (or may not) but it is only a word prediction machinery covering to some extent most common prediction. Like any real live person on the internet it is not looking at, listening, smelling, touching or testing and check and cross-referencing your actual car and its parts, components and systems. I don't understand why you need a new wiring loom for a crack in the PCB, or faulty relay as in other cases, that's parts cannon behaviour. What I don't understand is have you completed the repair and tested the repair to have fully sorted the cold start problem?

@Stonekeeper totally my mistakes I thought I'd posted stuff I hadn't, nothing wrong with your post. I've promoted the reading on manuals for decades especially as I found macho and other types of men don't believe in reading manuals for various reasons and that long term owners of some cars don't know somethings because they didn't read the car's owner's manual or don't refer to it and have forgotten what they read in it long ago. Newbies to a car or model often think they need the workshop manuals when often the owner's manual would serve them better for most things other than more in depth repairs. The owner's manual can offer prevention which is better than having to consider some sort of repair which might involve unnecessary visits to Dealers, garages, mechanics and auto-electricians. The older owner's manuals, such as for a Felicia, are better than for the later VWŠkoda models as more information is given and not held back for whatever reason(s) too.

I was referring to gearbox oil then by the way. If it's considered then why isn't it stated. 100,000 to 150,000km is only 62 - 93,000 miles neither is a lifetime for a vehicle. At an an annual average of 12,000 miles per year that's only 5 - 7.5 years! I'm not sure which modern car engines you thinking of that ask for 30,000km other than the VWŠkoda's on "Long Life" oil and wotsit oil changes instead of annual / 9,400 miles. Those designers must be very disappointed that some of their engines last longer. Not to worry in future the computer electronics, programs and formats will have the vehicles recycled sooner. But some don't want to keep the car too many years and aren't bothered how long it lasts after their possession which is fair enough as no matter what it is new hypercar or old used car it's only a car, lump of metal (and plastics). I was reading about million mile (not km) cars the other week some were even modern IIRC. The way things are with newer cars it pays even more to keep old cars running well. Life is also not just about how long but how well too. Time passes very quickly, in the future you will find that it was a blink of an eye years and decades have passed.

A change of gearbox oil may not be a priority now but I have always found a thorough drain, (clean if required) and refill using a good quality modern oil (good quality synthetic) helps with the feel of the shift (perhaps muted a bit with rod/cables linkages) and noise of the box as well as wear of course. Some engineers and mechanics may say it makes no odds and the oil is for life but it does make a (good) difference and even the best quality oils start to deteriorate from as little as single digits thousands of miles of use. Hopefully with a change to a good quality suitable oil extra additive isn't required. Easier changes can also possibly help with clutch use and wear. I also used to change and improve the oil type in the rear diffs of the cars I had. Each part, component and system you improve (by whatever means) helps with the running and wear of related or associated parts, components and systems. And things like heat transfers. Freer moving parts, components and systems that are more efficient can also help with power delivery and mpg. For all fluid changes being thorough is best, get the fluid hot/warm (H&S cautions obviously as required) so that it flowes out more and more easily so that more of it and any crud it holds or is with it is removed so that more new fresh is put back in reducing its dilution by the residue of old fluid and crud left in. Even if you remove the engine/gearbox/rear axle from the vehicle getting all of the oil out isn't possible without more work so whilst they are on the vehicle you can only go for getting as much out as reasonably possible (or going for more than one change for g/box and rear axle). Of course always keep in mind the real priorities - brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres), safety electrics (lights, horn, wiper, blower, etc.) reflective number plates (see and be seen) and of course for these modern 1990s cars the other safety items. On another theme, putting up reasonable quality photos (you get more information in landscape photos generally) could help the others to spot things on your son's pick-up good and not so good for how things are or should be. Difficult of course to see black or dark against black or dark and if things are covered in oil and/or crud but things can sometimes be spotted that could save time on diagnosis or explaining or perhaps see something that could prevent further issues, wrong parts or fitting (perhaps not that thermostat housing in the circumstances. And we all make mistakes, very many and very many times, and repeated for me.

Two things that many owners don't have stock of, or sufficient stock of, or for some never carry stocks of, is time and patience. Even if you fully prepare for the job and allow loads of time to do it things can happen and you end up running out of something (daylight, warmth, parts, consumables, materials, time and patience) so you do something that you regret later. For screws, nuts and bolts, after cleaning pre-apply (24-hours ahead if possibly) a good penetrating/releasing fluid, I favour GT85 as it is also a good longer last lubricant (than WD-40 Multi-Use) and has a nice smell. Hold can upright, give it a good shake before use, apply as liberally as possibly and reasonable, leave to soak in as long as possible, first try to slightly tighten before untightening (to crack rust/crud seal). If that doesn't work repeat the spray and leave and try again. Given time and patience with this I've found it it's very rare that heat is needed or fixings are broken.- https://gt85.co.uk/ PlusGas I don't think is such a good penetrating/releasing fluid as it used to be but that might not be the case and I'm not sure if the new lot have now stopped manufacturing it but stocks will be about, don't buy the tippy (gravity) can as I can assure you over time the bottom of the can can rust emptying the contents (previous PlusGas manufacturer's tippy can I have for decades with no issue, both GT85 and PlusGas used to be British decades back). Various makes, sizes and types of spanners and sockets(or other tools) can be handy for a better fit to old and rusty fixings. Always check, clean and lubricate (GT85 is often useful for this) before refitting. Most servicing, maintenance and many repairs boil down to clean and often lubricate (even clearing error codes is a form of cleaning). I used to always replace screws, nuts and bolts and other fixing with new, partly to see what I'd done in future but then the quality of new screws, nuts and bolts generally available over here deteriorated so much I'd reuse any reasonable fixings. Whilst the seats are out have a good look at the condition of the frames, any tilt mechanisms and the rails, again clean and lubricate as much as you can, obviously the driver's side gets far more use so if things aren't handed you could swap over with passenger. I had some seats re-upholstered one time (now an expensive job) and I asked that the seats frames were given a good look over whilst they were stripped down before doing the re-upholstery, a number of months after the work was done the tilt mech broke and the new seat cover had to be cut and stitched leaving a very visible repair on it, and the upholsterer didn't even do a great job of the re-upholstery, Such is lif. 😁

Well done on finding it and sorting and thanks for reporting back. Exhaust shield rattles, which can sound loud and be anything on the underside, can sometimes be difficult to find as they seem secure when you try to shake them at usual points but then moved when you persist ant different points and angles. On my wife's 2015 Fabia the plastic undershield was a PITA and neck for me as I couldn't comfortably get the Torx screwdriver on the nine screws to remove it without having the car raised (sitting breezeblocks) taking it off and putting it back on was annoying for me. It locates at the front by laying over and under another bit of plastic at the front. After finishing one job I had just fully tightened the last screw when I thought to myself even though I'd had the undersheild off and on a few times by then that I might have intertwined the two bits of plastic wrong. So of course I removed the nine screws again and tried the two bits of plastic the other way round to find it was correct as I had it before. I might Tipex the two bits before removing them next time and I've bought a 1/4" socket with Torx screw tip to fit on my 1/4" rachet to save space over my Torx screwdriver to see if I can just get at the nine Torx screws without the need to raise the car. I'll probably get my head and belly stuck under the car. 😄 That flap, as long as it opens and shuts I'd not worry about it, I could have a guess at what it might be but without seeing it in situ, or even then, it'd just be guessing. You have found you are better than the Dealer a working some of these things out so if you still want to know have a good look at it, where the air comes from and goes, and see if you can work it out. Well done and good luck.

Another lesson there, never just copy how something is fitted for as you have found it might not be right as with other stuff check and cross reference against at two or three other other reliable sources (bearing mind all information from any source can have errors (particularly me) including from the manufacturers. I have also seen manufacturer's drawings/illustrations being wrong in their own workshop manuals (very annoying). Also, never think that because a part is fitted and working that it is fitted correctly or working fully or correctly particularly with replacement parts and work done by others even if they were paid professionals (some of those do a worse job than unpaid amateurs). All shutting the stable door but it sinks in more when you expect it for yourself, especially when you've had a few old cars that have been threw a few hands or modified from factory spec. One of the things I used to do was clean fully drain and flush (back-flush and second flush with full drains) the whole heating/cooling system and major parts as much as possible, engine block, heater matrix and radiator and then completely (as much as possible) refill with new fresh coolant. Sod's Law will dictate that sometime after doing this something on the system swill need changing so I consider changing those parts before the refill. I've put my notes on this simple but thorough cleaning on the site before, or I still have the MSWorddoc, but most don't follow them fully but even partially they will get a cleaner system that may work more efficiently and may help to prevent or reduce more serious engine or cooling/heating system issues. I used to drive my old over-priced and over-valued cars (called "classic") as were designed to be driven when new, with todays advances in stuff they possibly (probably?) went better than when they were new (I wouldn't know for sure as I was either too young or couldn't have afforded the cars at those times). My wife had a Favorit in the early 1990s and I probably drove it a very few times back then but I can't remember or much details about it (other than the boot light that doubled as a (detachable) chargeable torch and what the British press called a substantial tool kit (it wasn't but it was compared to others at the time) that came in a lunch box type box IRRC.

Sorry I thought I'd already acknowledged you'd put that link and left a 'Like' on your post but I see now both thoughts didn't translate to the actions, apologises, my brain can't move even as fast as my slow one-finger typing and my memory retention is poor. (I never even noticed the "app" bit in the link until your post) as I just Copy & Paste it and I had no idea what language čeština was though I should have had a good guess I didn't).

A, barely in time reminder, for the start of the new working year, to check and recharge your 12v battery as per original post on this thread to possibly save being among this year's statistics.

I don't know, VWŠkoda like others use this silly "model year" whether they did in 1994 I don't know but the cover says "1995 to 2001 (M to X registration) Petrol & Diesel", M reg was Aug'94 to July '95 and will be for UK cars and given possible errors and omissions to me even if it was for 1994 (K) I'd take the info in it with a small pinch of salt but good enough for general use. I had a Haynes 1958-1980 and it didn't really cover my 1973 model so I also bought an earlier version that covered supposed to cover my model year and whilst it did it in an added section there were errors and omissions in it but still interesting for the earlier style and might have been useful had I not had other info to check and cross reference against it. For seven quid (I've no idea of money conversion costs for you, if any) I'd get it though I've no idea how good the info and lay out was at those times, the later versions I dislike liked but you and your son might be opposite to me. That reply was for D.FYLAKOS info. See my reply 2 hours earlier for replying to you. - HTH.

There are some on UK eBay but you've not put what year your son's Felicia is and of course they'd be for UK models so some differences (apart from the steering wheel side) in what's on the car but it'd give the general info, more so than the Owner's Manuals for later models too. Do you have car Felicia Owner's clubs that might have some for sale or available in foreign (English) language(s), or s/h bookshops, motor museums, parts suppliers. Did you get a copy of the Haynes, if not I saw this, good condition, £3.42, £3.49 P&P to Europe. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/387612196639

There is but only one version for 2000/12 - under Select model click on the Previous tab then see bottom left corner.

? If you are not a Czech reader then you could perhaps download the pdf and convert it to another file and language. The link I use to the official VWŠkoda Owner's Manual site is (I don 't use mobile devices much) - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models

I've no idea about how the heater matrix is plumbed in but if it is possible to bypass the heater matrix this will take it out of the checking the rest of the system and getting a false result because of any heater matrix issue at this time. On my 1973 MG Midget the heater tap (off the top of the cylinder head) went into the bottom connection of the heater matrix which made me think of the radiator to remember to put it on the bottom and not the top. With the block tester / sniffer test do bear in mind the possibility of false negative. For outlets if both are the same size you might need to look at internal routing or consider how the AEE cooling plumbing relates to what's in the Felicia pick-up and possible variations of cylinder head, thermostat housings, perhaps there might be some info in the 'Classic SKODA Projects' or other model Projects forums on here or if you know what model your AEE came out of diagrams from that if it uses the same thermostat housing.

😄 Small world.