nta16

I must admit I didn't think of, or realise, that red, black wire(s) was from the fan swich but thought it was a speaker cable from the radio, even worse that it is just hanging under the steering column. It is up to you what you do with your car and how you test it, and sorting intermittent issues is usually more difficult, but I would remove the fan switch connections and bypass the radiator fan switch joining together the original wires and drive as I put before. Hopefully the fan switch and wiring were a temporary installation so easy to disconnect and return to factory.

Altho' there's never really any good excuse at whatever age for wearing a flat cap. 😁

It is possible you bought an unreliable new car part but it might also be a good functioning part Did you check (and if required clean) all the wiring connectors and wiring for all sensors, switches, the gauge, earth and power points and all other connections including earthing points. Check that all wiring in good condition along the wires and at connectors and that the wiring is secured and grommeted as required. Another test you could try is to bypass the radiator switch by making up a suitable connector wire (and ensure it is secure and doesn't swing or flap around) that way the fan should remain (with ignition) and drive like this and see if the fan cuts out at any time of driving with the conditions from driving (heat, bumps, vibrations, etc.) that should help decide if the new part might be faulty. It all may depend on how you have wired the manual switch. ETA: the photo shows what looks like a speaker cable exposed and unsecured at that area at least, if this is a permanent thing then this is not the way to do any wiring and whilst it does not really matter on things like a radio if you have such in the engine bay it can matter.

I thought of reporting to a Mod but then that removes the possibility of reply posts here such as yours, I also wonder which gearbox and engine and actually typed it but decided those in the Mk2 forum and others here would know a lot more about it. Plus it means getting into asking lots of other questions, how long in ownership, previous service maintenance, etc., etc.. And of course the issue might be elsewhere. Being non-technical I can appreciate being in that position and getting over technical answers and questions. The things I would try as a non-technical, but experienced car owner, often seems to upset some of the purist more technical and engineers and their type plus of course the VW "fanboys".

Hi, the two issues may be related or not. The 3 mile drive may be very short for proper full warm up of the engine oil at least (this is different to the coolant temperature blue light) but it depends on how long and what sort of drive that 3 miles entails. Short journeys like that if done regularly and frequently are not best for many parts of the car. I'm not sure what that procedure is for so I wouldn't bother with it for now at least. You are best looking at and asking in the Fabia Mk2 forum as there will be lots of knowledgeable member there on your model and gearbox. More information may be required but you could start with just repeating your post. HTH. Good luck. 'Skoda Fabia Mk2 (2007-2014)' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/113-skoda-fabia-mk2-2007-2014/

Hopefully this won't be the case for you but if you get more problems in the future with something similar in the same area don't think it can't be with a new part just because the part is new as some (many?) modern made parts can be crap or poorly or very poorly made and not be very reliable or work at all from new or not last as long as they should. Autodoc may sell many different makes of the same part but that part may be made by the same manufacturers despite being in different brand label boxes or bags, and this can include some of the bigger older brand names. For cleaning connectors and connections any electrical contact cleaning spray is a very good start, crud needs more effort sometimes. For moving parts a switch cleaning lubricant. Just unplugging and plugging back in multiple times (electric supply disconnected or isolated) can clean up some old connectors and for switches with moving part(s) that are infrequently used rapidly switching through their range of movement a dozen or so times can often clear and loosen them up enough for a temporary sort of the issue at least. Good luck.

If you and other Mk4 users are happy with things then that is great. I don't think of VWs including the Mk4 Fabia as being much different to other major marques and brands (though similar regimens to the other German marques, Mercs and BMW). I note in that article that as usual the German marques feature in being upfront in introducing more complexity as they have for many decades, often these can be advances but not always as demonstrated by the article. Just because others do the same or similar things doesn't mean it's right or best to do - or preferred by their paying customers Personally any farting about with touchscreens, particularly for a driver, I find annoying and distracting and to have controls buried x-number of menus back like I believe Tesla sometimes do even more so and VW like others follow leading brands. Controlling the heating/air-con/interior climate (whatever you want to call it) shouldn't be any sort of mental or physical real effort to allow the driver to concentrate and aid their main task of driving the vehicle. Just in case you think otherwise, I'm not a Luddite type in fact nearer the earlier adaptor but I do expect improvement, practicality (to some extent) and that it reliably works for a reasonable time (without the need of farting about or need of unreasonable additional knowledge).

The following is just my info that may or may not be of use to you and may or may not be directly relevant to your current issue. For 30+ years I did run old (20-50 years old) "classic" cars for daily, work, short and long commutes, UK and European holidays and club events so I do have experience of this if nothing else. When I used to be on a "classic" forum, for about 10 years, things that would often appear about this subject were - reverting back to previous old distributor from poor quality new electronic distributor (or back to traditional contact breaker sets from electronic contact breaker points kits) faulty (often intermittent) poor quality new rotor arms faulty poor quality new high tension leads faulty poor quality cheap new spark plugs (all of above could have been bought as kit package or individually) poor electric contacts or wiring that has been overlooked, sometimes just needing a clean, securing or repositioning poor quality new testing equipment with Haynes or any other manual it has to be considered when it was written and that it deals with factory standard car and parts often road test were not (or could not) done to see how the engine actual goes, feels, sounds, smells rather than just relying on book figures (which are usually a good starting point) for a car or engine that is old and used with a perhaps a mixture of old and new parts which perhaps have yet to bed in with each other. Not all new ignition parts are poor quality and/or have faults but the quality could be very hit and miss and the faults and problems with them might show up straight away or with some use, often not much use because many of those cars got very little use so it could be quite a while after the part was fitted. I bought an excellent fully (top and bottom) electronic distributor which was on the car for 14 years of my use (still on the car now as far as I know) never needed adjusting and never played up - but it was about five times the price of the very intermittent quality cheap alternatives. When the cheap alternatives were fitted by other owners many would also carry the old distributor in the boot as an emergency swap repair, I preferred to fit and forget good and reliable parts (when you could get them) and not carry any spare parts, same as I and others wouldn't with a new car. Good luck.

Thanks for your post, sorry I missed it until now. And why would the mighty VW design engineers make this change possibly because perhaps some of the actual end users, the buyers of the cars, possibly found the controls unnecessarily over complicated. In a previous life I used to deal with marketing and direct sales to real live human customers, face-to-face, in their businesses and homes, and as part of another life I would have, usually brief, interactions with higher-level computer programers (of course some had other titles to justify their enormous (over) pay (the ones that earnt the most were contracts and did care what they were called) so I can see things from both sides, a bit. The computer systems are supposed to work for the customers not the other way round.

Hi, welcome. If you have not already seen them, as well as the other sections and subjects on Briskoda, there are a Kodiaq section and a Karoq section, all with lots of information from owners. HTH. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/340-%C5%A1koda-kodiaq/ https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/365-%C5%A1koda-karoq/

Hi, welcome. This is an English language site for posts as it is UK 'based'. If you have not already seen it, as well as the other sections and subjects on Briskoda, there is a Kodiaq section. including a Mk1 forum all with lots of information from owners. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/340-%C5%A1koda-kodiaq/ HTH.

I dislike cruise control let alone this active(?) cruise control but I know there is a thread about the retro fitting, not as straightforward as some might think so if you've not already seen that thread it may well help you (or you might decide to just clean up your existing wiper stalk). Up to you but not just for this but generally, if it was my car I would fully recharge the battery to 100% as the car is new to you and given the approach of winter. As the battery seems good it wont take as long as it could but could still take many hours and more than one session if you need to use the car in the meantime. Also if you know the battery is fully charged then you have a data point for it to judge from if and when it might need (or you want) changing, you might need the money for other issues on the car. Same reason I'd not doing any cosmetic or upgrade work on a car until I'd run it for a while and thought it might be reasonably reliable, I'd stick with preventative maintenance, servicing and repairs as required. starting with the important things like brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres of course) safety electrics and reflective number plates. Good luck.

Sorry but you are either overlooking or ignoring the basics that have been suggested to you. As has been put before you need to recheck the basics as we all make mistakes. Sometimes even on checking we miss our mistakes which is why it is good to get someone else to have a look to find what we have missed. Again, this is the basics - check and adjust (or replace) as required in this order - tappets, points, plugs, timing and mixture in that order - carb is last in order. If you adjust or replace any item in the list then you need to check and adjust (or replace) all items that follow that item in the list. This assumes the engine and electrics are all in a reasonable condition for the engine to run reasonably, if you have very old petrol or the air filter, or box, or exhaust is clogged or lots of other faults then you won't be fully success in getting the engine running well. And bear in mind what has been put before - the engine is one of the less important system, component or part of the car, braking, steering, suspension (all three include tyres) and safety electrics (good reflective number plates) are more important. You will get things sorted if you remembered to first cover and check and recheck all the basics of any work before moving on to the more difficult or sexy bits of the work and you will not fully successfully sort things without dealing with the basics. Good luck.

All that sounds like the battery is fine, worth recharging with an appropriate battery charger maintainer. To full for any diagnosis of electrical (and starting) issues to help rather than hinder with diagnostics that can go on for a long time and drain the battery and also possibly upset the Gods that are the car's computer systems that will make you suffer. If you take a (landscape) photo of your battery and post it we might be able to confirm if it is from factory or not if that would help with your deciding to replace it. The fuse for your wipers may not be the same as on my wife's Fabia you would need a wiring diagram for your car to be sure which might mean by VIN number or at least part year of car build, 2016 can mean marketing model year, was registered in 2016 but made before or really was made sometime in 2016. I think my wife's 2015 is sometimes referred to as 2016 MY despite being registered September 2015 and possibly have some bits from from April 2015.

You are making excuses for him he decided to drive the car, whilst driving he would discover the brake issue and should have taken appropriate action. How would you have felt if it been you driving your Felica or Bera in that very low traffic and he understeered into you, he obviously didn't learn anything from cooking the brakes, his father or you should have given him more than a good talking to for the second incident. These incidents might go some way to explain the videos you previously put up and in my opinion were in denial about rather than just defended. Good. As you know we say here - I hope that knocked some sense into you. Too much sympathy for such things you can only expected from your loved ones. We were all young and probably acted even more stupidly then, just be glad you are able to learn from it rather than suffer from it. But don't go from the extreme of at the timer accepting your mate's bad judgement and bad driving to the other extreme of being over worried about such driver's as your mate, hopefully, was. There's far too much reliance on modern car safety features keeping people safe in accidents, you would know better than me how reliable or not airbags would be in an old car and the limited angles of contact for them to operate oif they are working. Back on subject-ish (for a change) I removed the headrest in my Midget as there was no way to get them right and they were a nuisance, this encouraged me further to avoid accidents but it wasn't the type of car to have a serious accident in anyway.

Supermarkets here are almost all owned by very large companies and have fuel stations for the same reason but sell high quality fuel generally well looked after so if there are any concerns or rumours about their fuels it got reported on nationally whether true or correct or not. I would expect there to be isolated cases of problems but they would be a tiny fraction of those that claim or report issues, I would expect more often that issues would be by user or just uniformed or deliberate false claims. The UK followed the USA with a claim culture with also blaming others for your own mistakes, ignorance and stupidity but despite this still you don't generally hear of poor quality fuel for cars in the UK over many years. Since starting car ownership in the 1970s I have never had any issues from poor quality or known anyone else that has but I have not refuelled in France very often at all or been to France for a good number of years. Good luck with whatever you decide.

Yeap, it's another PITA of the car being designed to take over from the driver, really annoys me the few times I drive my wife's 2015 Fabia.

Are the fuel stations that bad in France, as far as I have seen in decades in the UK there have been a few times when some drivers have blamed fuel stations for poor fuel but almost always this was incorrect, not to say there was not a very rare occasion of an individual station messing up but then a filter would not have helped anyway with what was reported. If you really wanted to you could probably retrofit a fuel filter, it might involve more work and expense than you expect, or there again it might not, I don't know. I added a see-through (disposable) fuel filter to my car with carbs only so that I could easily see the fuel had made it to the carbs but that was just a cut into a rubber hose, couple of clamps and a securing p-clip, the car had managed nearly 40 years without as when made there was no filter. If you want to you can add your location of France to your profile/'Author stats'.

Not really. We all do stupid things especially when young but to be with a driver that puts us in his crash twice shows at the least shows poor judgement on your part. I hope you gave him, at the least, a very good talking to, probably not as you you possibly thought it was fun at the time. As I put before the best way to avoid damage and injury is to not get into an accident in the first place, like not going into a car with a driver that does stupid things and crash. Sod's Law is idiots like this often injury others but not themselves.

Yeah, Sod's Law usually applies. 2016 is a better year than my wife's 2015 I think so hopefully preventative maintenance and regular timely full whole car servicing should help prolong stuff and find sooner what might fail, plenty of threads and posts here on the usual stuff. In some bits the Skoda brand cars are better than the VW brand cars and visa-versa. German car marques generally dropped off end of last century or start of this century but I've never been a fan and favoured the Japanese if I wanted engineering high quality. Good luck.

With my wife's 2015 it wasn't corrosion but the VW grease either run or not done right on assembly, I'm not sure what number fuse it is on my wife's car but I put a photo up, if you have not already seen it here's the notes I made for the work (you can click on link directly below). - If the battery is the original then someone has looked after it so it might be worth continuing to look after it to get even more reliable useful life out of it as these batteries aren't cheap and you enter the world (and debate) of 'coding' the new battery too. As the car is new to you it might be a good idea to fully charge the battery to full (car's happy at about 80%) with an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the car's 'Owners Manual' and for the charger. The £15 Lidl or Aldi ones are fine for the job but you can spend £70, £80, £120+ on more fancy and more fashionable ones if you prefer. As you have a 2016 car, and a VW product at that, you will have a few things perhaps to do on the car, plus its a 9 year old car, so a good read of the 'Owner's Manual' can sometimes help to avoid some unnecessary visits to a garage, mechanic, auto-electrician. If you don't have the paper printed version of the 'Owner's Manual' then there's a VWŠkoda site for free pdf downloads. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Hi, welcome. Things have moved in the last 30 years, forward, back and sideways but the basics remain the same and available for much DIYing. Even more important now to read the Driver's Handbook ('Owner's Manual') to avoid unnecessary and expensive visits to Dealership/garage/mechanics/auto-electricians - and to look after the 12v battery(ies). 2014 keeps you in with better odds than later years. I remember a mate having a Superb and at the time it seem such a big car, not now of course with all the modern "SUV" tanks. If you've not already seen it Briskoda has a Superb section also with a Mk3 forum. Good luck. Superb forums -https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/171-%C5%A1koda-superb/

You don't say where you are located, perhaps if you are in the UK VW don't considered an external fuel filter is necessary. In the video the filter looks very obvious, not the usual black part against a black background all covered in oil and or other crap, so if you can't see it it might not be a part fitted to your car.

You either are very concerned about such things or you recognise it and act accordingly, avoid getting into accidents as much as you can by driving appropriately, if you don't have a safer car be a safer driver which includes being aware of the unsafe drivers in their safer vehicles around you. Imagine how much worse things could be if/when you are a pedestrian, horse-rider, cyclist, road-worker, etc.. Fiat Cinquecento Sporting, 1107 cc (7 cc over the UK "road tax" threshold at the time) 53 hp, full of FIAT faults but great fun to drive without the need of impressive or made up acceleration or top speed figures. - And red seatbelts so it must have been a sportscar. 😁

I agree there's a lot of misunderstanding about the stop/start and generally battery use and drain. This benefits the motor trade. The stop/start won't kick in if it thinks the battery is too low for it anyway, which should be a notification or warning to the driver/owner that the battery charge might be low and need for charging by some method. Often though this is ignored repeatedly and continuously because the engine starts so the battery can't be that bad. Hence the continuing number one reason for breakdown call-outs continues as it has for x-many years (decades?) and in reality very, very rarely is it truly the fault of the battery. And we are getting into peak season for such stuff.