nta16

You have taken the word something too literally, I used that word not the garage. The electronics that control it are inside the gearbox, you can monitor and even control it with the scan tool - notice I answer your questions even if you don't give answers when I ask you. No advisories were dismissed, the reason the car was took there was to service it and deal with the advisories from the previous MoT, it is not my car, I suggested previously what should be done and even passed on a card for another garage that others had found to be good and trustworthy, you can lead a horse to water but you can't force it to drink. The gearbox "fault" wasn't part of the MoT or an advisory it was something said by the garage as part of their servicing, the neighbour could find no one that wanted to deal with the "fault" as all said the manufacture had to deal with it so a diagnostic test was booked in at £174 which would be put towards the repair cost if the work was accepted, Sending the unit off independently meant getting it out of the box sending it away for assessment and repair, repair being around £280 IIRC and then reinstall, with obviously the vehicle out of action all the time and the risk the unit couldn't be repaired. So with that it was worth trying a throttle reset and scan and road test with live data or suggesting another way to use the box to get around the "fault" with the "fault" being unclear as the garage description and what my neighbour thought was wrong were two different things. There wasn't a fault to find, the car has ben happily driven ever since whereas before it also seemed my neighbour was driving in limp mode - you must understand that not everyone knows or cares about cars and just want to drive them with the minimum of fuss which can often leave them open to opportunists.

You could hook up a machine and do the wiggle test, you'll need a second person if the scanner is a wired one. Much though I dislike them a good multimeter could help you find bad connections and bad earths, again a second person doing wiggling on wires and connectors can help. Does it even seem heat/cold, wet/dry, warmed/not-warmed engine/car related or when you wear a brown or black jacket any theme at all. If it's only when you're in the car you have your answer. If they're got a reasonable scanner (bi-directional) they can check a lot and power up and power down components and parts separately if they're not seeing a long list of recorded error codes. Anybody been leaving drinks on the dash, and suddenly they're empty. 😄 Good luck let us know how you get on.

Always allow for Sod's Law - and computer programming! 😬

Obviously it's just me then. Not a life or death worry for me. You used to be able to get to the actual testers book, the procedure but I've lost the link or it's been closed off now as I've not ben able to find it for a while, they used to have separate updates to the test as well which was useful and saved searching for changes. Phil866, sorry I've only just noticed you have a '77 Spitfire (I used to have a '73 GT6 Mk3) you probably saw earlier this year(/ or was it last) the change to headlight regs so that LED bulbs and units combined upgrades were excluded (or in included as an exclusion depending which way you're facing.)

Sorry I did not make myself clear, the petrol does not show any difference at the pump, most customers (in the UK) will not know about this, it is just done.

My above post goes for you too. In the UK we have different blends of petrol for "winter" and "summer" but mothing is declared at the pumps. At these two points of the year the petrol blend that has just been changed to may not suit the prevailing weather conditions at that time as the weather does not run to fuel providers settings so there can be odd little change over things on the cars, do you have "summer" and "winter" blends in Greece?

I wish I did, I sometimes see a spelling mistake in a post and reread the post and see typos, edit errors, missing or mixed up wording and sometimes lost to what I was trying to put!

Sorry I made another typo, should have read - . . . then the video will help when getting at plugs and changing the air filter,

Sorry I am not sure I understand this as it seems to reinforce why not to do it and what I am about to write. IF the original Driver's Handbook does not tell you to press the clutch to start the car and your cars are in such good condition why do you feel you need to do this? Why not try starting the car, from cold at least, without having the clutch pedal pressed down, obviously with the gears in neutral, keeping both feet away from all pedals, this way the load is constant and not changed when you lift the clutch pedal, pushing and lifting varies the load otherwise you would not have been told to do it. Trying this experiment will not damage your engine or your clutch and is easy, quick and costs nothing to try. With my old car which has a clutch release bearing, will start with the clutch pedal pressed down but it starts far better when clutch is not pressed down, in fact on mine you should not press the clutch pedal down when starting the car as it will wear the (carbon) release bearing and many of a certain age will know this. For "old skool" see this, my car is a1973 model not 1955-62 as in this video (and about a fifth or less of its value in UK). -

Just as back up to previous video this is for left hand drive (LHD) cars. - Skoda Fabia Mk1 (1999-2007) Heater Ventilation Blower Fan Control Unit replacement / removal -

I would also check the cabin filter and the (scuttle) drain holes engine bay side of windscreen to check they are not contributing to cabin moisture. ETA: I am literally about to put the Pingi bags back in my wife's Mk3 Fabia having dried them in the microwave, large widow area, seasonal English fog and damp all day.

If the air filter box is the same stupid design with hidden screws underneath then the video will help when getting at plugs and changing the plugs air filter, so much for German engineering design. 😬

If you can't see fluid anywhere else it could be the master leaking within itself, not sure of the ABS bit, have look round the back wheels and inside the drums, if there's damp see if it brake fluid damp.

Same with my wife's car, couldn't get a torch in a good position to see if fluid was to the line, that difficult to see anyway, car's too heavy to shake to see fluid wave and fluid too light and transparent - but same as you I took a level of the mesh filter. Do you mean inside the cabin, what is the damp and dirt, just wipe the dirt off - but be careful if it's in the cabin it could be anything, wear gloves. 🤣

I don't think the plastic strainer type cage thingy matters but if you work out how to get it out let me know. If you cleaned the side of the reservoir can you very easily see the brake fluid level, depending on the make, colour of the fluid when it was original, fresh and new it's not easy on my wife's Fabia Mk3. Personally I like to regularly change the brake fluid and flush through plenty of fresh clean new fluid at each corner as part of the bleeding process. Farting around with the engine first is the wrong priority, brakes are always first.

Try the headlights on and retest, give it two minutes, 120 seconds. The basics of these cars are only just after pony and trap just that lots of bits have had to be added to this ancient technology to get ever more nths degree of mpg and more importantly trying to reduce the ****e coming off them, VW having been caught lying and cheating with its computer program perhaps that's why they got so complex.

Another thing, when you took the brake reservoir cap off was it cover in dirt, did you clean the cap before taking it off, was it clean on the inside? I don't know the drum brakes and handbrake mech on your car but on my old car cleaning and lubricating as required the rear drums, and handbrake mech, will help with pedal feel and travel, as with most servicing, maintenance and repairs much of it boils down to clean and lubricate, even the electronics can be a matter of cleaning.

If it was my old car I'd think it sounds like brake rubber? flexihoses breaking down, perhaps internally, or perhaps a problem with the brake master cylinder.

Has the car been standing for a few hours and not run? Was the reading from the actual battery posts, probes pressed in the soft tops of the battery posts? 12.3v is about 70% so reasonable but it depends how accurate your multimeter is, cheap modern multimeters I've found to be very unreliable and my not so cheap but not expensive multimeter gives very optimistic readings on my car battery. Try turning your headlights on for a minute or two, use a watch or timer, and take another reading to compare.

The problem with VW's over-complicated computer systems is that warning lights can come up for minor (or even no real) issues or may light when it's too late. If something is serious limp mode or red warnings but not for everything and again they may light up too late. As rootoot has put I'd push this problem over to whoever sold you the car let them decide or provide you with a courtesy vehicle. It depends previously if the P334B was dealt with correctly or lazy replace a part, thing is you have the information to suggest this to the seller. - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/P334B/013131

The scan tool has turned up some very useful info but do bear in mind especially with cheaper scan tools that they only point you in a general direction, don't take raw error codes as necessarily the exact answer. But it might well be in the correct area in this case or it might be as suggested in other posts, I'd still on return of car check the battery and do (part) top ups with Shell V-Power for the equivalent of two tankfuls. 100% always worth checking the fuel filler cap has been fully tighten and the cap is in good condition and not faulty or damaged - it's also free , quick and easy to do.

If a sensor or ECU thinks, or it is actually running lean, revs too low, then that could lead to over fuelling as compensation or over-compensation actions taking place. Sometimes an injector(s) might be a bit dirty or worn so have a drip with spray pattern perhaps at shut off. This could lead to internment cold starting depending on how much fuel was in the area(s) when the engine was switched off, the relativity of the heat soak from the cooling systems stopping, the ambient temperature and humidity, the surroundings, the wind and wind chill to bonnet and under car etc.. 8c at 3pm - no figure now for 3 pm here but at the nearby weather station shows it was 10-11c here, about 85% humidity, almost no wind and it has not rained for 4 days (but boy did it then) but where I am is often 0.5-1c higher temperature and if there is any wind we notice it more being a the top of a rise.

Plug colour is only a very rough indication and needs to be done after the plugs are cleaned or replaced with new plugs, over here there is also variance in fuels and additives, my plugs will have the inner insulator salmon pink or a tint of salmon pink. You also need to switch off the engine at the point and speed or settings you want to check the colour of the plugs at. So if on the road you need to, when safe to do so, switch the engine off at the point you want to read the plugs, then stop as quickly as possible with the engine off and then pull the plugs for photo. The plugs and the engine will probably be hot. so beware.

Do not worry about your English it is excellent, people would have more trouble understanding my local English accent. To me the revs seemed just a little low at starting but not bad, I would have driven off normally from that. I have no idea about your l/km (I automatically wondered if you had reset your trip as I was thinking in miles and mpg!). You can only take the fuel gauge reading as a rough guide, most I have used have inaccuracies and are not linear in their inaccuracy or accuracy so as had been said before only at a complete refill from the previous refill can you say the consumption and divide by the distance travelled between the two fills. My wife's previous car even from brand new would show 'Full' on the gauge up to about 110 miles sometimes, the car averaged 48-50 miles per gallon, so about two gallons used. One thing I do wonder about, but I am not sure it would make any difference, does the Driver's Handbook instruct you to press and hold the clutch pedal down when starting the engine? And were you hold the peddle down all thorough the video. Great camera angle. 👍 😁

Totally forgotten about those. I wonder how many people who only do short journeys wouldn't buy the diesel and now petrol's with PF if they knew about them and Start-Stop with its battery shenanigans. If I've understood it correctly for the diesel the driving at least 37mph and 2,000 rpm has to be consistent otherwise the time duration is lost and you start all over again.