nta16

You can put that info into your profile details so that it shows on the badge thingy (I've no idea what they're called) at the side of every post. See mine for an example. You might want to think about getting a correct (trickle) charger for your battery for prevention rather than hassle and cure. You want it sorted by the seller but if you have a good multimeter a quick check of the battery posts might bring you to my pet subject on here of low battery - though all or any of what rootoot has put could be the cause or even in addition to a low battery. Good luck.

Again that's fair enough but why after that, I can't say I saw when the emission was done but I don't think it was at the end of the test. I drove my neighbour's car around before the test to fully warm it and to give it another road testing before taking it in, I got there 5-10 minutes early to allow for booking-in and show the car was there on time ready. It was a good while after this when I had to go outside to walk they came outside to apologised for the delay and said my neighbour's car was next, didn't mention there was only one MoT bay in use though and that the MoT on the other hadn't long started, they knew I said I'd wait and the car was from literally around the corner.

Yes totally agree it was just that the same place sold and fitted these tyres to the car, that's one of the main parts of the business. The car is 16 years old now with only just got to 28k-miles, it's never been a high annual mileage car and he's not one to ask for the cheapest rubbish the garage can lay their hands on. I thought the tyres must have come from his son's mate's tyre place as that guy I'd not trust as far as I could kick him, cheap Chinese tyres of a totally unknown brand. The place knows the car an that the owner is elderly. Yeap, totally agree. plus cars "Historic" cars don't need an MoT. And as I try to explain to other an MoT is only one, trained, person's opinion of the condition of the vehicle at only that moment in time to meet a minimum statutory standard it doesn't mean the car is as good as it could or should be or that it wouldn't fail the same test moments later. When I suggest having the test done months early to shift it to a better time of year and not worry about losing a number of months on the current certificate people think I'm mad as "it's not due". I'm all for a firm but fair MoT testing but many of these places use it to drum up premature and unnecessary business or even straight out con people a different of opinion is one thing but inventing thigs is another.

This was on a 2005 very obviously without start stop. I can't say for certain as I was inside and then had to walk around outside as my back was playing up but it seemed the all lights including hazards were on from when I first saw the car which was on the ground then so I thought perhaps having its headlight aim checked I wasn't paying attention just walking by at that point. I didn't realise there was only one tester and MoT bay in use at the time. Fair enough but after that part of the test has been done. I passed again about 45 minutes later and saw all the lights including hazards were still on the car was off the lift, I didn't notice if it was running or not, I had to nip home as my neighbours car was still waiting and it was 30-45 minutes after the booked time so I got a small quick job in at home as I knew I'd be running late now.

All the lights fog and and hazards. As I put I wasn't worried about them all being on just the reason for it and if it's such a good idea why isn't it part of the test - perhaps it should be. I forgot he also put an advisory for the side repeaters which I'm not moaning about one I had notice whilst testing and had mentioned to my neighbour but they weren't readily available in time and I thought it might not even be noticed as an advisory. It wasn't my car it was nothing to me whether it passed or failed and I and my neighbour would prefer any faults to be brought to attention.

I see it as a way to waste fuel if nothing else. These are old cars so I suppose you could say it's a more thorough test of them or hoping perhaps a bulb goes which would be a fail. I wasn't worried at all as the battery was good and would have coped well for a good while by itself let alone the alternator I just didn't like the practice but the car was booked in and not my car to cancel I was only asked to take it in as a favour. I've not heard of anywhere else doing it, in fact the next day I was waiting near the MoT of another garage and it wasn't done there and I can't remember reading that this is test procedure.. Not brilliant for the tester either as I can't remember seeing any exhaust extraction on the car or a test probe as it was 6 foot in the air, full height doors were open full width though. The tester was very though indeed, can't moan about that found a tiny split in the small ARB drop link that I'd have never been able to see let alone find and a load of advisories, including three tyres with cracks two of which they'd fitted at most only 3 years before and less than 1,000 miles on them. The other tyre might have been one of theirs too. The good tyre was formerly the spare which I swapped on to the car a few of years ago dated 2009 and loos very good, only the date stamp tells it's age.

Hi, welcome. If it's a diesel it might need a good run to clear it out too, you could put more details of the car in your Model details, engine, spec level as that can help if you ask more questions.. It shouldn't be the case here but, if the car battery is low even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough and there are no low battery warning messages the battery charge could be too low for the computers and can throw up all sorts of strange error codes and warning lights, so keep the battery in a god state of charge. Especially if it's diesel but even with petrol these modern cars don't like lots of only short journeys (the battery alone) and need occasional runs or blow-out runs otherwise they clog up and wear down. Let us know how you get on.

Our very local MoT, or one tester I saw at least, has all the lights on including fogs and hazards whilst checking the underside with the car in the air, when I asked him not to do it on my neighbour's car which was next in line the tester said it was Ok because he left the engine running! By coincidence another neighbour had a fail the year before from this place on front sidelight bulb, Covid, you had to leave the car with them, we had checked all the lights the day before. Obviously you can't say a bulb couldn't blow in the meantime and the spare bulbs my neighbour kept at home instead of with the car. They also found a lot of advisory work. This year the same neighbour took the car back there for a service and get the advisory work done and MoT, less surprisingly it passes this time but they tell her there's something wrong with the gearbox that neds sorting, I'm not sure if they wanted that work or not, but there was nothing wrong with the gearbox luckily another neighbour has a good scan tool and car repair experience.

Yes, saves you time and money and them time on what's really not their speciality, I was just lost why that would take two years but no matter. Yes this was the path once is was known that your car is chipped. Personally I would stay well clear. Tuners use off-the-self units and programs but hopefully they have selected good and robust products to use on their customers' vehicles. A lot of it comes from motorsport so neds to be correct for road use only and the suitability of any particular product to the vehicle it is to be fitted to. In the very old days the chips were piggy-back chips that could be removed then it was custom programming chip that would require hours of the car being driven on the road or more expensive on a rolling road and the chip program would be custom to the vehicle and to some extent the driver or way the vehicle was to be driven. Yes, best of luck to you, it may turn out to be a simple fix still, good luck.

If you've gone to custom modification suited to your car and you and it ran well for 17 years it sounds very much like you done things correctly and went to the correct chap. 17 years of wear and tear let alone changes perhaps in fuel over the years might just mean small adjustments or corrections to what you already have, or he might find a small fault in a part or component is to blame. Only thing I can not figure is if you have had a fuel problem for two years why you did not go to this chap sooner. You would have to see for yourself what another poster said he had done to a car with 90,000 miles on it which he has only owned for 3 months, practically a software rewrite without hardly lifting the bonnet, almost as if the work was done on the street or in car park, opposite end to how you are doing things. I can't wait to see what wheels he gets for it. 😄 I am sure you will be sorted now, good luck.

The car manufacturers have HUGE recourses to set up their cars electronics, they set them at a middle safe level to cover all the various environments and types of driving that model will encounter to keep them within safe parameters of use. These parameters can be easily be moved from factory settings but the factory settings allow for a wide range of use for a reasonably serviced vehicle running within accepted norms within a reasonable life use and life span. Some chips that are added just look at extended the range of performance by reducing the safety parameters which is fine as long as the vehicle is is well within the margins. The people making the chips do not have the HUGE resources of testing the electronics of the car manufacturer or database of found problems and errors so sometimes they may stray outside the extended parameters of good running and operation.

And . . .here's a big tip for you - do not let your car battery get too low, even if the car starts, the lights seem bright enough and there are no "idiot" warnings on the dash the battery could still be too low for the computers and their invasive and intertwined over-complicated computer programs. The low car battery can cause all sorts of strange problems, the computers will make you very sorry for your neglect - bluetac or whitetac cannot save you from the ruling computers of your car.

An Aldi. And you didn't believe in low battery and evil VW programs! 🤣

Quote But the site, or Google, or whatever might be playing up today - it's all computer programs so nobody really knows for sure, even if they pretend to.

But Eddie5768 are you now a believer in the computers need of battery power? Give it longer for a full test, let this new battery drain to confirm. 🙂 Soon she may have to consider going to twice a day, perhaps not quite yet as this has helped revive you but bear it in mind for future. 🤣 All being well this could be the end of this issue for you - and you can get on to the next. 🙂 Cheers.

Wilhelm, thanks. I have had a piece of bluetac, the same piece, in my general toolbox for years I have used it to hold things retrieve dropped fittings, pick up small items my fingers cannot and loads of other uses. I use fresh bluetac or whitetac for these securing jobs as the other pieces, I have others in the shed and home, are dirty from years of use.

I know the bit you mean, it is part of the light cluster assembly and I very much doubt you can get that bit unless you can find a broken light cluster at a scrapyard and take it from that - or find a similar bit of spring metal. Or pad out the locating peg on the car - item 16 securing pin in the parts link - personally and this is not a joke I would try bluetac or whitetac, once left it has extremely strong holding power and I mean extremely strong but you can stretch it off - like those reusable wall hooks (can't think of the name) they must similar stuff. I have had bluetac hold an external badge on my car for about ten years, hold up a broken metal captive cage fitting and gear lever knob shift numbers badge for about 5 years. The holding of the rear light unit is another bloody silly design along with wheel bolts instead of wheel studs, German engineering indeed.

I've just thought, I'm not sure how useful they'd be for DIY I suppose it depends on pipe wall thickness and hardness, I'm not sure if DIY you'd need to use a long lever and have the exhaust in a vice, you'd have to check, or perhaps it's easier than I think.

If you just want to flare the end of a pipe out you can buy (borrow?) pipe flares (kits), claims to take out clamp dents, just one example. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164139341975

Wow you do go back a bit. 😄 C'mon, it was a split in a pipe, cars are ancient technology basically. You'd be sent to make the tea, only then there's the worry of the hot kettle and water. 😄 Don't worry I wouldn't have found it until my wife pointed it out to me, "is this it" - "no, that's to make it easier to fit". What's MS Teams then . . . All's well that ends well, tomorrow is . . . usually another and different problem, but it's only a car, nothing important. 🙂

Well done on finding it. I almost put a posted about that you might be thinking at a higher level than needed and it's always worth re-checking what you've already checked or double-checked or thought you already had. Now c'mon admit it, the apprentice would has got the seat of his overall dusted with the toe of your boot for missing that back in your central door locking days, whilst you and your colleagues would have admitted between yourselves that you didn't see it either. 😁 I once went off looking for a spare portable tester because the one I had been given wouldn't power up, neither did the spare, tried it in another power socket and it was fine, though I'd asked if all the sockets were live and was told "yes" of course I'd found one on another circuit that was dead, "oh, no, not that one over there". Not only test the test equipment, test the tester, that really tested me, was on piece work and lost my place to the easy and quick gravy-train work.

D.FYLAKTOS, If you can comfortably fit 175/65/14 tyre under your wheel arches and with your suspension and steering then the extra tyre sidewall 'rubber' may help cushion some of the crash to the tyre, wheel, suspension, steering and car when your car hits potholes and stones. OTOH - if the 175/65/14 has a higher Load Index then the sidewall might be a little stiffer so that may cancel out some of the benefit of the extra sidewall size - you would have to ask the tyre manufacturer for better details The 175 width tyres are generally more suited to 5" rims, with 5.5" rims the sidewalls may be more upright so losing some curvature and flex giving some harshness. All this depends on the particular tyre, its design and construction and manufacturers usually state the rim width range and preferred width. Toyo Tires Europe, Proxes CF2 (scroll down page for details of sizes) - https://toyotires.eu/tire/pattern/proxes-cf2 Tyre size - 175/65 R14 Load Speed Index - 82H Tread Depth - 7.5 mm Overall Diameter - 584 mm Overall Width - 177 mm Approved Rim Width Range (bold preferred) - 5.0-6.0 inches Tyre size - 175/60 R14 Load Speed Index - 79H Tread Depth - 7.5 mm Overall Diameter - 566 mm Overall Width - 177 mm Approved Rim Width Range (bold preferred) - 5.0-6.0 inches Toyo Tires Europe, Proxes CF2 - https://toyotires.eu/tire/pattern/proxes-cf2

Sorry I thought you were testing the handbrake generally, there'd still need to be quite an imbalance to turn one wheel - unless we're all as strong as you, the front pads catching would have me straining.

Looking at Thefeliciahacker's video again it is the same, from initial start up tachometer needle rises and jumps to then drop back, so ignore me.

No one slurred your good name and I did put the word 'if'. 😄 Surely you'd need to be very strong and/or the handbrake weak to turn the wheel(s) with the handbrake on normally, I do mine to three clicks out of five locked and it seems to work better than the handbrake on the Fabia MK3, which I've never touched but passes MoTs .