nta16

Don't worry about the numbers on the dial, feel the sense of achievement. I have to post a letter of intent to overtake.

As long as it's safe to do so there's no law (is there?) against how fast you accelerate, you could also leave it in 4th for NSL for a while if you wanted. Another idea that might cause some national or county twinges is to occasionally or as regularly as wanted to use the higher priced petrol that contains additional cleaning additives (lower f'an'ol and higher octane too) or if you don't believe it'll blow your engine perhaps a good quality additive with good cleaning properties. Of course both these things can go against faiths and beliefs so are not for everyone.

4 amps is slow charge rather than trickle charge unless you mean a 'smart' trickle charger that goes up to about 4 amps. What ever you get do allow for the type(s) of battery it needs to serve and allow for the conditions it might be in, very cold below freezing,, etc..

Yes, I was also thinking of checking the sensor probe end for dirt but good to check and clean electric connection point too. Same for the sensor(s) before this one too, same as computer GIGO, for engine dirt in dirt out or SISO.

Again do you need a new battery or just need a full recharge, a long low and slow recharge (not high, quick and fast), overnight at least but best done off the car for as long as required until the battery is fully recharged. I went against my own advice and changed the battery on my wife's 2016 out of panic, laziness and because we hadn't had the car from new but the previous battery is with my mate and still fine AFAIK. Coding is easy if you have the correct and relevant tool. There's a map, it was very useful for me and I note there's a pin in Bedford. - VCDS Owners Map If not I could see if my neighbour is able/wants to help with his scan tool.

Stewartasb, it wont be E10, or E5, we had all this worry and scaremongering 20 years ago with unleaded petrol, Skodas are not just made for the UK market, but as a reassurance. - Škoda E10 petrol is cleared for use in all ŠKODA vehicles with petrol engines with the following exceptions: Felicia 1.3 litre OHV (40kw and 50kW) engines in the production years 1994 to 2001 Other ŠKODA models using the 1.3 litre OHV engines produced prior to 1994. https://check-vehicle-compatibility-e10-petrol.service.gov.uk/manufacturer/Škoda Do checking the sensor is fitted fully and correctly, if you want check that it's clean, also check you have no air leaks, hoses cracked or off, and that other sensors before this are clean, as well as obviously servicing requirements of timely oil, oil filter, plugs air filter changes. If two years ago you bought lower quality (regardless of price) sensors then they can play up and cause problems, I'm not sure that VAG injectors are the best either, sometimes it's better getting aftermarket OEM parts as car manufacturers can cut corners in vehicle production. I'm old enough to remember that when VW first took over Skoda the build quality actually dropped! 😉

Car batteries are one of the most oversold car parts - it might just need a full recharge, a long low and slow recharge (not high, quick and fast), overnight at least but best done off the car for as long as required until the battery is fully recharged. Buying a cheap battery is the expensive way to buy if you're keeping the car more than a few years. Other than, if required, getting the battery coding done changing a battery is easy (subject to its location) and if you need to set or resynchronise anything then your Driver's Handbook should inform you, I'd always anyway resynchronise both remote keyfobs (and use them in rotation). £95 = VAT = £114 which would get you a lot of battery (even if EFB or AGM) see here. - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/027/

There's so much programming garbage on modern cars to get the nth degree of mpg and (pretend sometimes) much lower emissions as internal combustion engines are such ancient dirty technology but obvious the car manufacturer's don't want to admit to any of this (bear in mind I drive a car from 1973 so worse, but more honest). For the thread problem- as always, I'm for battery too, I go for charging the battery off the car at least overnight on a long low slow recharge. I wonder what Nickg912 will find.

Getting snow off the roof is important as heat rises and can melt the blanket of snow from the underside so it has a nice lubricated to slide forward or back in a nice solid lump, This morning we got the sitting rain water off all the windows and exterior mirrors only took a few minutes. If you want, applying Rain-X or equivalent helps with later clearing and cleaning of the glass areas including exterior mirrors (and headlights for those of us with cars that have glass lenses). As there's so much glass in the Fabia (and possibly getting in with now damp clothing) to help with the condensation inside and to help and speed up the use and lowering (or switching off) of the blower motor and air-con we have a couple of Pingi bags and a synthetic chamois keep in a bag in the glovebox. These and the rubber blade (or plastic for ice) scrapper are all used in addition to the car's electric and electronic systems to save the battery and it's ruling invasive computer program. This off course does take a bit of time instead of starting the car and immediately driving off to use the time perhaps for much more important things like getting a take-away coffee or dealing with messages. Yes I'm a moaning very old man. 🙂

I suppose it's a matter of what you've got used to, now everything is expected to be done by a push of a button. Manually scrapping the ice off all the windows puts the driver in touch with the outside temperature for driving conditions, using a rubber blade to clear the water off all windows helps with self clean too. Nowadays I use a waterless wash 'n' wax and two microfibre cloths to clean the lights, number plates and exterior mirrors and could also be used on the rear window and wiper if fitted, only takes minutes to do. Your number plates have to be readable now too. Our cars are outside 365/6 so they soon get dirty even if not used much but I'm certainly the other end of fanatical cleaning. I do get annoyed at car with 4" of snow dropping off them as they go along and only ****holes in the snow for the driver to try to see through or only the wipe of front wipers (and rear if fitted) with the rest of the car and windows thoroughly blanketed. Again it's no fun getting all the snow off a car but it reminds you of the conditions. Some modern drivers can be too remote in their cosy cars.

Sorry run4mo I totally misread your post I read the failed bulb as failed MoT, as in they'd failed the car for a blackened number plate bulb. I would go to Specsaver but I can't see my way through the door. And don't think I'm keen on cleaning cars, now I leave them dirty for a long time but I do clean the lights , number plates and exterior mirrors before they get too dirty.

I must admit I had to look MIL up to remind me, same with a lot of these acronyms as there are so many and can vary slightly. Sorry, a bulb that doesn't fully illuminate, say is black or silver covered on the glass bit can be a fail I think, add in dirt and you're layering your problem especially if it's a single lamp that illuminates the number plate. Remember the person checking is human, the pass or fail is to their professional opinion given at that moment in time, I think for the number plate light it'd only be a visual inspection so no need to touch anything. Also, and I'm not just putting this I actually do it, whenever my car is going into a garage or for MoT I try to clean it so as to present a car that is looked after to some extent at least. I regularly clean (just) the lights, number plates and exterior mirrors, see and be seen, and it can be so effective that people think I've cleaned the car until I point out the brake dust on the wheels and dirt on the bodywork. I always at least clean the lights, number plates and on the Fabia before it goes to the Dealership including MoT, I don't clean the rest of the car as they do it (and not very well last time) if I remember I do clean the door shuts too. For my neighbours car as my wife had borrowed it I cleaned it including door shuts, under wheel arches (inside boot) and a quick polish of under bonnet and engine as I knew the MoT was due and this would impress them on a 15 year-old car with evidence of minor bumps and it did I actually heard one say how clean it was - but it still failed on a ARB droplink boot, but the rest were advisories. I had to take my car back for a retest and as I was talking to the chap that failed it another chap was check for that bit for the retest when a drip of oil landed on him, we laughed, a big mistake as he added that as an advisory, technically he was wrong but I decided not to argue as I might want a bit of leeway elsewhere on the car in future as somethings on a car as old as mine are a judgement call and the younger testers aren't use to the more lax build parameters of the past.

Makes sense as I was listening on headphones too. It doesn't matter for this video but you really need a quiet location to do audio like this, unless an engine builder hears it as they can be so expert as to be able to sometimes diagnosis over just phone audio, this excludes me as I am not an expert in anything, or even mechanical.

Yes it's difficult to convince most that a brake light sensor could have their car in Limp mode or upset the ruling computers and causes them to through other wobbles. (I still struggle to think what MIL is.) I think the guy at the very local place that does MoTs must have previously worked at a VAG garage. Although I hinted not to my neighbour booked his car for an MoT with them as he'd used them before and asked me to take it in for him. I did so but took it for a warm up drive first as the place is so close, that was a waste of time as I arrived 5-10 minutes early but another car was already in the one MoT bay in operation so I waited. The car being MoT'd had all it's lights on including hazards and at least rear fog, next time I looked a bit later the car was on the lift but still all the lights on. Had my neighbours car been mine I'd have cancelled the MoT for it on seeing this. As things were running so late I decided I could nip home and return so I asked the guy doing the MoT not to leave the lights on my neighbours car as I wasn't sure about the battery (which was a lie) and he said not to worry as he left the engine running! Previous year another neighbour, with the Merc A-Class, had the same place fail her car on one front sidelight bulb, now we had visually checked all the lights the day before and they were fine, that's not to say a bulb couldn't have blown in the third of a mile to get there - or whilst being left on during the whole of a MoT, it's the same place that she had service and MoT on the car this year to be told her gearbox needed attention when it didn't really. These old folk just can't be told, I gave her a card I got off another neighbour for a one-man garage that he said good and trustworthy that his mum uses.

Fair enough the Favorit we had new in the earlier 1990s was my wife's car and I can't even remember driving it, I'm sure I did but as with all her cars not that often as she's always using them. One of the reasons I bought the particular model of my current car was that it would have a nominal extra 1 gallon UK (4.5 litres) capacity of the steel fuel tank over the previous nominal 6 gallons UK (27.3 litres) capacity but I found the fuel tank had been replaced and the capacity was only 5.83 gallons UK (25.5 litres). I have to fill all the filler tube, sometimes to the back of the petrol cap if not hot weather, something you can do on a 1973 car, to get the 6 gallons (plus a bit more) and carry a 5 litre full petrol can in the boot to get a reasonable range on a driving tour. I can literally brim fill the full tank and filler tube so know exactly that the tank is full if I want to do miles per gallon (litres) tests or checks then if I do the same after a run I can quite accurately work out the miles per gallon, assuming the petrol pump display is accurate, as my odometer is accurate. I very, very rarely do this as I rarely drive that car for miles per gallon.

Sorry don't worry on second listen it's probably just noise from the microphone and recording.

It's been since June. It might not be learning (it doesn't really learn, computers are very thick and only do as instructed) because a system might be telling it there a fault or situation elsewhere that requires these actions of reduced power and warnings. Last week I was skim-reading the Driver's Handbook of my neighbour's 2005 Merc A-Class ("watch out for that elk") and every other page it was dash warnings of doom and disaster and get the car to a Merc garage immediately.

These things are obvious and bad enough when the plastic in the engine bay is 6 years old just imagine the fun at 16 years old, duck or electrical tape everywhere.!

I was taking it as just parking up, pulled over ,or stopped for a while -possibly to listen to The News and The Archers.

Isn't it that if the new battery hasn't ben coded the car thinks the old low battery is still there so is saving electric and warning about it.

Good, I just thought I'd make sure as originally I just pulled that grey tab back and tried pulling and as there was so much resistance I then remembered this was what happened before and perhaps I should try squeezing. I think it was on another car where the connector just needed squeezing with fingertips from both sides but with my stubby digits I struggled to get it right whereas a mate just picked it off with no effort or thought.

Probably the computers taking over and getting their panties in a twist, if you were running electrical stuff while parked up, on the phone, listening to music, or even if not I always go for possibly your car battery is low, even if electric stuff was working and rhe car starts up. Other side is the throttle sensor, you might have done something to upset it or not done some thing you should have to keep it happy or gawd knows how many other electrical/electronic/programming deviations might be involved. Perhaps you didn't turn the ignition off or done something else. How many miles on it, what's the service history, how's it been looked after. That me out of ideas, you could do a scan and see if any error codes were logged, check the battery and if required give it a long slow low recharge out of or disconnected from the car overnight and longer if possible, that might slay two flying creatures with one pebble.

That should be sorted by a completed battery coding.

That's very interesting. It wouldn't apply to older cars though as they had steel fuel tanks, in the UK the change to plastic tanks was sometime in the 1990s I think but can't remember exactly. Or they may have been plastic lined as I remember a workmate running a company loan car so low on petrol it sucked the liner in we thought by the sound of it. An ordinary driver/owner can't get extremely accurate mpg (l/km) for other reasons too so whatever method you use you just have to be very consistent with it and accept it's only reasonably accurate. Even with cars pre-1990s which were much easier to be more accurate with for mpg (l/km) most drivers didn't know how to do the method correctly so would get wide variations with some claiming higher figures than they actually got because they done it wrong.

I must admit I didn't actually take the connector off as I didn't want to upset the computers and them get annoyed, "All hail the computers". And I think I should have put - You only need that grey bit that far out - but then you squeeze and hold it down whilst pulling the whole connector back.