nta16

I'll have to have a look as I previously thought front but was persuaded rear. Like many facts they can change over time, Galileo, Newton, eggs, smoking, ect.. I wasn't suggesting BasilHume move the rear tyres rather that they are replaced as a set, if the Landsail are good tyres then another set of those to make four. The Nexen and Autogrip might be good tyres in themselves and in good condition but mixing tyres on the same axle has never been thought of as a good idea AFAIK, plus you have to take into consideration the model of each tyre, its wear and use and abuse by previous owner(s). All the electronics and computer programs are fine but they have no control of the two actual surfaces of the tyre and what it's running on, or not. 20 years back a mate had a go at driving my wife's smart, a City Passion LHD (ruined by MercbenzDaimler at the time, I pitied their customers with the expensive models) as he got his size 13 on the go-pedal we rushed to catch up with others not realising were where going in the opposite direction, then at one point he asks "what was that light on the dash?". I explained the Traction Control light as we had all four wheels off the ground. You may remember the A-Class failing the 'elk test' so the smart got loads of safety features and other features that were on the top of the range Mercs at the time. Showing how things change Mercs were just taxis when I was younger, and all over Europe too but I'd not know that, the 60s ones might have been cool but 70s ones were mainly taxis. Late 90s and early 2000s Mercs weren't the best quality, I had mates with them, among other things the paint finish was often a problem that would sometimes show under warranty and then again a few years out of warranty. Things change, and come around again, apparently they're not so great again.

The better tyres should really be at the rear anyway. Not this model but some cars could have problems with different tyres and at big differences in wear, the computers wouldn't like it and they are the masters! When I asked a dealership about putting new tyres on a performance vehicle as they were at just about 3mm they said if they'd been below 3mm they would have but that I could probably get the tyres for less than the cost to the sales department and the way these businesses are set up I believed him so your dealer just got what he could for lowest cost. I think the Nexen are common as new so possibly like us one tyre might have got a puncture or been damaged so replaced (I replaced with two tyres for balance and even wear) and the other two just wore low, front tyres wear much faster, perhaps suggesting the tyres weren't rotated. Some don't believe in it, some don't know, some don't care. If you ever do rotate the tyres get the screw-in positioning/locating studs, two for each wheel, I did after hurting my back lifting the wheel 12 off the ground and it slipped off the tiny centre hub lip - German engineering!! What's up with wheel nuts. I still get trouble from this.

The high temperatures do make a difference to the battery discharging itself and taking recharge, what were the temperatures like before you got the car. If the car is new to you you probably don't know the history of it's use. As put a good battery should be OK after 27 months - but - that depends on it's use and abuse, and if it's not been swapped. If the car is under sales warranty then book it in. The battery being in good condition and state of charge has always been important on all vehicle but even more so the more modern the car is. If the battery gets low it may still be able to start the car and lights seem bright enough but if the computers don't hhave enough power they will play up in all sorts of ways. Check the connection to the battery posts aren't loose or any crud on them, I often find them loose on other people's cars (as I often find the battery not to be "good" as I was told it was). I doubt the earth connection to the body will be loose but previous owners can do weird stuff. I would charge the battery, if possible off the car as the car drains even when just sitting there, check your cars details as to what needs resetting if you do remove the battery, with my wife's car the only thing lost was the time on the clock and that was with removing for many hours. Whether on or off the car you want an appropriate charger to the battery on the car and a long slow low recharge is better than these fast modern charger (and not a booster). I'd also resynchronised both key fobs after removing a car battery, just to be sure. Whatever you do don't leave this as it will come back to bite your arse, if you have access to a suitable scan tool you could check for errors. HTH.

Glad you like it, roomiest interior in its class my mate told me, and he'd know as he's 18-stone summer weight. Which bring me on to bolster wear and door sill scuffs, perhaps someone large or possibly small but never move the seat back before getting out or in the car. I'm only 5' 5" but need the driver's seat fully back to get in, particularly as my wife is only 5 foot and has the seat fully raised and I have it fully lowered. I don't think you'll miss keyless. Personally I'd always prefer a keyblade entry, not even remote. Saves having to checking the batteries in both keyfobs (use keyfobs alternately if you can that way you know where they are and that they work) and synchronising them with the car at car or keyfob battery changes or disconnections. Mild rebuking now, you're concerned about cosmetic but neglect an important (and complex and often overlooked) critical car component, at an absolute minimum get the two rear tyres renewed. Often best to have all four tyres to be the same make model and age particularly if you rotate their positions on the car at intervals. I've no idea how good Landsail are, Nexen blue HD (and HD pus) are alright, currently we have Nexen blue HD Plus on the front (a distress purchase) and Avon ZT7 (British company) on the rear but no idea until we get the other two how good they are really, seem fine. The Fabia, SE spec at least, isn't the best handling car if you're in a hurry so you want decent tyres. Having put that I run the tyres on ours at Eco setting but does make a big difference to the rolling resistance so you don't always have to push the accelerator as much and can lift off the accelerator early which helps mpg and perhaps charging the very fussy and invasive stop/start battery management systems. If by this you find yourself braking harder then you're not made the most of it and should perhaps go back to normal pressure and regain a little grip and be pushing on a bit more. Pulling away seems to get those new to the car, but isn't that the same with all vehicles you're not used to, some seem to think you need more revs to pull off than you actually do, often I just lift the clutch at engine revs before touching accelerator pedal (but I'm used to pulling a coke cable). Enjoy your new purchase.

ETA: I was still typing this whilst the two previous posts were, er, posted. I don't think the 1.2 TSI have DMF but it might depend on your gearbox and I don't know what the Monte Carlo have but from elsewhere on this site from another contributor, try this to see if yours is. - https://www.eurocarparts.com/clutch-kit Are the Monte Carlo 'souped-up' a bit over others, different computer and running settings (I don't know) so run differently (go faster settings)? The service manager is the person you should be dealing with he (invariably a man) was, like many (most?) probably picked for his ability to look down on customers and treat them like idiots, remain polite, present facts and let him give the solutions , if not offer them to him but be reasonable. Don't clear the code but do record it and back it up in as many various versions and ways as possible. Water pump change is recommend if doing cambelt, again I don't know but expect it's because the water pumps (or seals/gaskets?) could be iffy(?) and if doing one lot of work might as well do the other (find if it's under warranty). More info will be on this site if you do a search. Pretty full service (by modern standards), spark plugs and brake fluid should have perhaps been done in earlier years by PO. Strange engine oil isn't on there unless there's a continuation page. Another thing, did you test drive other examples of this car or know anyone with one? Even if it's an MG Dealership and you've bought a Skoda if things continue not to go well you could try MG, not in England , same as I've found Skoda UK just said ask a Dealership, if you can make contact abroad you're not dealing with the English car trade so different attitudes exist - difficult I know as MG are Chinese. I've just given away a load of current MG mags a mate gave me with MG details.

Very good point, I totally missed the abs bit, that might explain or tie in with what Chris has put - "(or someone moving in the back seat)" "has a real knock knock knock judder" "It occasionally stutters a small amount at lower revs." Could it be one or two rear brakes pulsing or stay on(?), it might be a brake and/or engine issue, when these computers get mixed up all sorts of weird stuff can happen. @Nikonite you want to get the code and see what the diagnostic procedure is for it. Keep a copy of the error code report and date, virtual, electronic and definitely printed paper. If the error code predates your ownership and hasn't been cleared then it probably wasn't dealt with by the dealer before selling you the car but is not a warranty issue, if there was a fault with the brakes when he sold you the car I'd have thought he'd have to sort that at his own expense as a trade seller and I'd tell him so. Any brake faults are potentially serious. If he doesn't want to know then if you have any sort of membership or access to legal advice I'd take it.

Sorry, I had a time critical duty to do, now . . . You definitely want to read the 'Driver's Handbook' called rather confusingly the 'Operating Instructions' for the car - but Just realised you put Apple, rushing too much - Apple, no idea, so that me out, sorry.

Hi, welcome. Sorry I cant remember, it's in the radio menu, but details are in the paper printed 'Driver's Handbook' 'Owner's Manual' or here - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Sorry, I'm short on time now, very quickly, keep your car battery in good condition and state of charge, same for both keyfobs, alternate their use, don't do all short journeys give the car a proper run when you can regularly. And see here for more info, click on link below. -

TBH I wasn't there and may wrongly be taking your side, but . . . I'm sure the dealer will say he (usually a he to do this sort of thing) did. If it's a third party warranty you might still be in a cooling-off period from signing for it. The salesman will have made commission from selling you this product, if he mis-sold it he's in trouble so will happily let you, or even help you, cancel it (if you're in time). - https://www.moneyhelper.org.uk/en/everyday-money/buying-and-running-a-car/car-warranties This is another bit I don't like - perhaps an Italian tune-up would do it the power of good as these cars tend to get clogged from all the 'town use' and if the car battery is low the computers don't like it and can throw all sorts of wobblies, the stop/start system and battery management systems are very invasive over the rest of the car too. Drive it like a petrol car and not a diesel car, having said that you can't drive a modern diesel car the way you could previously or the computers and DPF will give you extra problem over petrol. Obviously not the same torque but they go well, the Monte Carlo is the (81kW) 108/110 hp engine and according to the Driver's Handbook has (175Nm) 130 ft lb at 1,400-4,000 rpm and 81kW (108hp) at 4,600-5,600. With me driving and my wife as passenger (no luggage) I found the car goes well at all the speed limits. I've got the tyres pumped up to the Eco setting which really does reduce the rolling resistance which must help with fuel economy and might help with the coasting to charge the battery(?) but does nothing to improve the car's handling. Let us know how you get on

Martin, you're stressed so panicked first and thought later. You are overstressed about this car. I know both as I've done both many times, I've owned old British made cars and dealt with the English motor trade and English dealers and Dealerships, even the previous very reliable Japanese cars unfortunately because I live in England I had trouble with the English Dealerships that sell the very reliable Japanese cars so you can guess how much worse it is dealing with English dealerships and English motor trade with English made cars, both old car and brand new cars. A few times problems with dealing with these people has got me over stressed but later I realise "they're not wurf it" and these problems have just escalated in my mind as in the greater realm of things they are relatively unimportant and so are these people. Now, get the manual read over the next x-number of days and have a look here, click on the link. -

Well she's right to be upset with you, I'm upset with you as you didn't RtFM! I'm joking I'm not upset with you but I've hope you've learnt to RtFM! Is the steering lock sorted? Is the locking of all doors sorted? I'm going to get you some straightforward general info for your car and I don't want you feel patronised by it because I learnt a couple of things from it and I thought I'd read the manual (but I do forget stuff too). Now make yourself a mug of tea (coffee if you really must), sit down for a bit and relax.

Martin, did you do the testing I put in the earlier post and have you RtFM? As I've done it I'll put it up here. -

I was just going to find that, I'm old and slow.

Martin, as A G put for keyhole and resynching the keyfob (important you do this anytime you open the keyfob and you should rotate the use of the keyfobs to even out their battery and blade wear and it also ensure you always know where the spare fob is and that it works). When all else fails RtFM - see below for resynch. Make sure you have fitted the keyfob battery fully and correctly - I had a dealership not do so and the fob was internment until I fully seated the battery, you won't think anyone could get it wrong but I can think of no other explanation. For the steering lock I disagree at least as far as with my wife's car as I've just tried it twice with the wheel parallel and at about 80 degrees off that and both times the steering locked within a few degrees. Resynch the keyfob. Give it a few minutes then lock the car, give it a few minutes and unlock the car, always check your work.

Chris, another way round this is, or to get the dealer's attention more, is to ask the dealer to let you drive a similar car with the same engine and gearbox, doesn't have to be exactly same car age & mileage if as the dealer claims "they all do that". And if possible go out with a mechanic too. As a generalisation, totally honest sales people tend to leave the car trade quite quickly. There are a few possibilities as to what might be the cause but it needs the dealer to scan for error codes, get it in the air for inspection and to do a road test, possibly before, during and certainly after diagnostics and any remedial work.

This doesn't sound right to me, next time I drive my wife's car I'll see what the revs are from pulling away from cold start (if I remember as I don't normally drive the car that often, unless it's back from the pub, we drive each other to drink!).

Chris, my experience of my wife's 1.2 TSI is that starting from cold it can be a little rough sounding and feeling as @xman put. I try to never just start a car and just pull off, I like to check the warning lights at switch on as I put my seatbelt on before starting the engine and then check what goes out or stays on shortly after starting and listen to the engine but even doing this the engine is a bit uneven for a short while after pulling off and very shortly having to give way and stop at two close junctions. Do have a good read of the 'Operating Instructions' booklet as it has a lot of useful information, if not the best or easiest read and keep your car battery in good order (keyfobs too) as the computers don't like low batteries and can easily get their panties in a twist. You only need normal revs to pull away.

Great stuff, anyone with better eyes than mine can in future do a visual check on the cambelt on ours, changed last September at £429, doh! Perhaps I should have done some research before agreeing to it - "We were robbed!" "Do you think so." - Planes, Trains and Automobiles. I get so ****ed off (and I'm being polite with that term) with dealing with my very old British (BL) car that I really can't be arsed with my wife's car and this is what I have to pay for this reticence and laziness, oh well, perhaps I'll know better in my next life.

Sorry but can I just confirm this, Continental say check the belt at one - hundred - and - sixty - thousand - miles and then every 20,000 miles? So what is it that Skoda and VAG think will cause their engines to need the cambelt to be changed at 5 years or 50K-miles. I'm never certain of my failing memory but I seem to think earlier belts (Fords?) were service change at 72k-miles and then quickly dropped to 36k-miles and then perhaps lower(?). I remember a young chap called "Digit" because he lost part of his finger on an early Ford belt change.

Yes I've had those kind of troubles, being treated like an idiot by a service manger (lower case intentional) and them or the foreman not letting a good mechanic do a good job. Unfortunately many mechanics don't make good business men if they set up for themselves but if they do then you can never get to them as they always have more work than they can handle. Like you, when I could afford to that is, I paid 'hassle money' that is I paid out so I didn't have the hassle of doing the work myself but then I was having to pay someone else or redo or correct some of the work I'd paid for myself ,and I repeat I'm not a competent mechanic or have the aptitude for it. I have thought about doing interim oil and filter changes on the Fabia as it does so many short journeys but it's a right fart to get the car 3" off the ground so that I can get the undercover off and at the underside then there's the mess and disposal of it all plus I literally ache from being on the ground. I've had the Fabia coolant for two months waiting for the 'can-be-arsed' to come back into stock and I've got to clean the (brand new) reservoir and again flush through the clutch fluid on the Midget because of **** poor rubber seals. I know if I done the work instead of moaning it'd be done but I wouldn't have to moan or repeat the work if things were just reasonable, not even good. We'd normally be in Wales in September, when usually the tourist and schools are back so I could have left the car with you for a couple of hours to sort things whilst we're at a pub.

You could get a light and magnify glass, or take hi-res photos to view on a larger monitor, you'd be looking for crack/crazing, evidence of abrasion, and to be sure fully you'd need to check the whole belt. Everything looks clean so no bits of belt where they shouldn't be, like you I'd need another belt at the side of yours to compare with but others might know better.

Unfortunately I totally understand about you not trusting everyone in the car trade to do even a reasonable job let alone a decent job and there are those that do ****-poor work or simply rip you off too - not that I'm saying that's the case with the dealership that gave you the quote, as I can't know if they're good or bad. I've a 48 year old British (BL) car so it always needs something doing to it and now I do much of the work on it myself and all of the servicing and maintenance, not because I want too as I LOATHE doing anything with cars other than perhaps driving them. I'm not mechanically or technically competent but I just got fed up of paying garages and supposed 'specialist experts' to do ****-poor or bad work work or plain rip me off. If I'm going to employ an idiot it might as well be me, at least I'm not over expensive. I've only started doing stuff on the Fabia this year as I found the dealership is so used to dealing with the vast majority of customers (you can get ****-poor and bad customers too) that insist on the minimum work being done that they don't ask about doing the servicing work I'd expect to be done just the schedule. Although an engine oil and filter change is necessary the engine is relatively one of the least important components on the car the services should be more about checking and attending to the important items like brakes, steering, suspension, (all include the tyres), lights (horn), windows (wipers/washer). Now of course you have to battle with all the truculent computers too so sorting the car battery (and keyfob batteries). Things like pollen filters aren't expensive and if you replace them yourself you can also clean out the housing too. Let me know if you do a good job and you can take over the Fabia and to really make you suffer the Midget too, you wouldn't believe how bad the modern made parts are for that because most 'classic' vehicle owners are so tight-fisted and short-sighted that they insist on the very cheapest parts as they never really driver their vehicles so the rest of us have to suffer from their purchasing power. I'm a grumpy old git, and a lot of it was caused by the British motor trade.

Martin this is nothing to do with the sales manager don't engage with him, be polite but don't engage with him, this is a warranty matter which is After Sales. Explain that there is a fault with your car and a noise, the car is under warranty so an investigation is needed. If the warranty was sold to you then you can contact the warranty provider because they will have other garages that can carry out warranty work. The garage that your car is with should run a scan to find any error codes, you could ask for that report, they can transfer it to your phone. If they find nothing relevant such as other possible error codes that might relate to the car going 'limp' for other reasons then they need to road test the car under the conditions you've told them cause the issue. I'm sorry you found it upsetting and do understand, now the but, but you do need to accept and distinguish between being asked questions about the car, your driving of it and qualification of your acquaintance which are reasonable and being palmed off - and I'm not saying you wasn't, how could I as I wasn't there. You do need to give the garage a chance, to hopefully sort the matter and/or do the right thing, or even the chance to not do the right thing, before you move on. I'm all for cutting the losses for the sake of not wasting time with those that don't want to help and to save energy and emotions but you're not at that point yet as far as I can tell. Again, don't deal with the sales manager - a) it's After sales not Sales, b) by now it's obvious you're probably never going to get along with or trust him, c) he might normally be a decent sort - or he's living up to a stereotypical car sales manger that treats his staff and customers like something he's just trodden in so why waste more of your life on him than you absolutely have to. Let us know how you get on.

What's listed in the quote? I have, Oil & Inspection Service - £184, Pollen Filter £35. At an average of 4,500/year don't be tempted to skip servicing and maintenance work as you need it more, not less, for some items because of the low mileage, and lots of short journeys won't help your car battery and it's systems. If you don't already do so you need to give the car occasion (better still regular) Itailian tune-up (blow out) runs sustained higher speeds and revs to clear the systems out and restore a bit of battery life so that the computers are kept happy and nourished.

Our local Skoda dealership done my wife's 1.2 TSI 90 SE for £429 last October, whether that's because my wife is a customer of theirs I don't know, I think my wife said it should have been £479? but I can't remember. The list for national pricing I have states starts from £449. Even at £479 (if it is that and yours is that, I don't know) I'd sooner pay the extra £29 for the dealership to do the work, subject to them using Skoda parts and materials, unless I knew the independent garage was particular good and used good quality or Skoda parts. Some people at dealerships can be good and certainly some independents garages or their mechanics can be not so good or bad. Unless you can find somewhere or somebody that's good and they don't go off from being good or change staff it's always a bit of a gamble where ever you go. P.S. low mileage might not effect the cambelt change but it does no favours for some other bits of the car and for those proportionately the servicing and maintenance can be more rather than less because of the low mileage.