nta16

Good point. Again information on this in the Operator's Manual. But keeping the battery in the car will slow things down even more as the battery is being used by the car so part of the recharging is lost. Very recently as a neighbour didn't want to remove the battery from a different make of car as they didn't have the radio code I lent out my other 30+ year-old 4-amp analogue charger not realising not only were they going to also be using the car for running grown offspring about but also shutting the windows during the hottest weather of the year on a black car. I'd already explained about recharging in the extreme heat and now they were literally cooking my old charger. When I saw this and they put the ignition on to drop the windows the charger stopped as the car's blower fan hadn't been turned off from the last run and that surge was the last straw. I'd already suggested they put their head inside the car to see how hot it was so when they saw the charger needle completely dropped their face was a picture as they thought they'd bust my machine. I took pity on them and cooled the charger by disconnecting it and blowing through its slots but it was a perfect illustration of what I'd been telling them about them trying to push water uphill by putting all the obstacles in the way of the, or any, battery charger doing its job well. It was mutually decided to leave recharging the battery, on the car, until the weather cooled. I'm sure that it'll be all forgotten about until more warning lights appear on the dash or the car won't start, and being an automatic that'll be more 'fun'. You can lead a horse to water . . .

My wife's car was a claimed to be a courtesy car for the dealership we bought it from and had 10k-miles on it at purchase but I've no real idea how long it took to get that mileage. 22k-miles sounds a lot for a demonstrator but sometimes these cars can also be used as 'pool' use for as runabouts or for some employees and their families use. Check what type your battery is, ours was EFB and I switched to AGM but your charger may probably have a general setting for stop/start batteries which covers both. If you have the type that does crank and alternator testing check those too as a battery can fully charge and still be unsuitable for the type of use it will get. Also if your battery charger has a 'recondition' (or similar worded) setting then that might be use but be aware you will need more time and patience with that setting. My 20+ year old 4-stage maintenance charger, with the battery out of the car, might take up to 60 hours (that's two and a half days) on a big battery that's as flat as a pancake and many people don't have that amount of patience but I've recovered a few of the neighbours' batteries with one or two days of charging. One was for a diesel van battery that was flattened and a modern battery charger had failed to recover it so it sat for two years on the garage floor. All it needed was the right type of old slow, low charger and time and patience other than lifting the battery no hard work was involved, the 48 hours took up just minutes of my time, getting the charger out, connecting up, checking when it's done and disconnecting and packing away the charger. I always let the chemicals or machines do the hard work, preferably without me being their so that I can be doing something much more enjoyable which is just about anything that doesn't involve faffing about working on cars, which is always unrewarding to me.

Just to be clear @gcasey AFAIK the map of VCDS owners who may, or may not, wish to help, is for your use as an owner rather than a commercial garage. I think the garage is doing the right thing by checking thoroughly anything to do with the brakes but I feel you need to use a garage with the correct diagnostics systems and training in its use and how to correctly interpret the results, it can be a false economy going somewhere with general knowledge and experience rather than specific marque and model training, knowledge and experience. The average vehicle owner has generally for many decades misunderstood the importance of the car battery being in a good state of charge and it being good quality and it and all it's connections being in good working condition but it has become even more important with modern cars with all the extra systems (safety, navigation, entertainment, engine, transmission, etc., etc.) and more and more computers and programs each year. Also the complication of modern battery chargers and charging the various batteries has made things less straightforward than even a few years back and the modern appeal and marketing of instant solutions often leads to unnecessary purchases of new car batteries, even the breakdown companies seem to encourage this, being a cynic I'd suggest as a good source of additional revenue and profit . See my post of Thursday at 00:24 for keyfob batteries too, and if you disconnect or change the car battery to synchronise both keyfobs and anything else that needs synchronising on the car, full details will be in your 'Operating Manual'. On my wife's car my first thought when something went wrong was to check and if required recharge the car battery, obviously any safety item like brakes, steering, suspension (all these involve tyres) and lighting I'd also do a visual checks and road test. Anything to do with locking doors, windows, alarm, immobiliser I'd first check the keyfob batteries and synchronizations. These types of checks and work are quick, easy and free to do and are the basics that are needed to prevent the need to look further and incur additional work and expense. Reading and referring to the 'Operator's Manual' can also solve many problems and issues.

Possibly for some, depends on the use of the car and stop/start. My wife's car regularly does very short journeys, some days only 1.5 miles twice a day, so the start/stop is often switched off when not required. After nearly 6 years I changed the battery but I'm sure with maintenance I could have got at least another year out of the battery but it's not my car to have available for such, plus I'm fed up with faffing about with my car and don't want to with a second car.

All beyond me. I just try cleaning and lubricating, this won't solve your problem but might help. Most people think to service and maintain a new car but not as it gets older when it needs it more, most servicing and maintenance often just boils down to cleaning and lubricating but if there's been a build up of muck/crud/debris through subsequent lack of of servicing and maintenance then more vigorous cleaning and lubrication is often required. For the engine it can be surprising what effect a thorough (hot) engine oil change (& filter) to clean fresh good quality oil can make plus a change of air filter, change or clean of plugs, clean of throttle body, MAF. 65c wouldn't be oil fully warmed, if the oil is old (or very old) and/or of poorer original quality then it'd be offering less protection and even lubrication. Some think it's best to leave the muck in the engine to fill the gaps but it's also grinding things down more. Anyway you've got to thoroughly clean the old oil away to see anything in the engine wear wise if you're taking the pan off. I've got a feeling you can get some thinner oil additive to quieten things down rather than the thicker syrup like stuff some used to tip in in the olden days but there's only so much that will help. It's a matter of balancing how much you want to do to keep the engine still going for how long.

Sorry but the computers don't care about the battery having enough power to have bright headlights and even enough to start the car and driving the car will do very little to help as just starting the car used to in the old days take 8-15 miles to just get the starting charge back into the battery and that was for cars without computers to keep happy. A fully charged battery, after being left to settle for a while, can show12.6v - 12.9v but can be well below these figures to start and run the car (plus you have to allow for for errors and discrepancies in whatever electronic device gives you these figures). Your battery charger might not be up to this particular job that it's required to do - or the battery is too far gone for it (or any). The hot weather and the battery still being connected to the car will make any chargers work harder. To recharge the battery well you need a long slow and low recharge which may be beyond some of the big brash fast modern chargers, or make the little maintenance chargers take a long time. I'm not a fan of modern chargers unless you get the better (usually much more expensive) ones, my chargers are 20+ and 30+ years old. Ideally you'd take the battery out of the car, and charge it somewhere cool during this hot weather. Fully charging it could take a day or two or more depending on your charger, you certainly could go faster with some chargers but often faster in is faster out as it doesn't go deep enough. Much to my surprise on my wife's 2015 Fabia only the date and time needed resetting after having the battery was out the car for nearly a day (I must admit I panicked and went against my own advice and fitted a new battery anyway, I've more than enough loathing farting about with my own car to fart about with a second). As with battery chargers same with batteries you want the right one for the job and not paying enough can be false economy, I'm sure your charger would cope with your existing battery fully charged or keeping a new battery topped up (subject to the charger being suitable to the type of battery). If you prefer change the battery that will (may?) require a recoding of the new battery, either by a dealership or garage with the VAG system or there is a map of VCDS owners who may, or may not, wish to help, obviously I can't speak for others but I was helped by one local to me. - VCDS owners map - https://tinyurl.com/yn6mmtyk This is the battery I've recently put in my wife's 2015 Fabia - the AGM battery from Tayna, a Bosch S5 A05 (other suppliers and batteries are available). - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/bosch/s5a05/ HTH.

@gcasey Whatever happens at the garage I'd recommend you recharge the battery or if you prefer change it but that will (may?) require a recoding of the new battery. To recharge the battery well you need a long slow and low recharge which may be beyond some of these big brash fast modern chargers, ideally you'd take the battery out of the car, and charge it somewhere cool during this hot weather. Fully charging it could take a day or two depending on your charger, you certainly could go faster but often faster in is faster out as it doesn't go deep enough. I don't know on a Superb but much to my surprise on my wife's 2015 Fabia only the date and time needed resetting after having the battery out the car for nearly a day (I must admit I panicked and went against my own advice and fitted a new battery anyway, I've more than enough loathing farting about with my own car to fart about with a second). Others might know better but dirty fuel didn't sound right as a reason for the sudden braking to me or crank sensor, much more likely ABS sensor as @thamestrader put. Too late now but if your garage doesn't have the VAG system to code everything up you'd be best to get it done by someone with the coding. There is a map of VCDS owners who may, or may not, wish to help, obviously I can't speak for other but I was helped by one local to me. - VCDS owners map - https://tinyurl.com/yn6mmtyk HTH.

@MartinMMorgan You've not offended me and I don't think anyone else. Listening to the recording, to me and I'm not an expert in anything or a mechanic, it does just sound like turbo but it could also be something else, wind whistle, blower fan, air-con. If the sound is at the revs the turbo operates at then I think it's probably that. Try keeping below those revs in 3rd for 30 mph, you could easily be in 4th below 30mph most times. Even in petrol cars you can go at low revs that you'd think might labour or stall the engine and it doesn't. My wife can be in 5th at 35mph in her petrol Fabia.

My wife's car had a problem and the first think I thought was to charge the battery but I wasn't used to how much charging these batteries want - if you can spare the time to remove the battery from the car and give a long, slow, low recharge (often not possible with impatient modern chargers) you can probably get the battery back to health. As it was my wife's always needed for work and more importantly her social life I panicked and replaced the battery, and with a different type (AGM) but it was only then I researched and found the new battery would need coding to the car, mainly because of the battery management system for the stop/start that seems very invasive on other systems. Batteries and electronics don't like to be too hot so certainly at the moment the battery (and charger) wants charging somewhere cool away from the heat. The car battery is one of the most oversold car parts but you always want a good battery in good condition and state of charge otherwise it can cause problems of its own and hinder resolving other problems. If you change the car battery I'd also synchronise the key fob and anything else that needs synchronising on the car. I alternate the use of the 'main' and 'spare' key fobs so that they get more even battery wear (use of blade) plus you know whether the spare is (rather than mislaid when you need it most) and that it operates correctly. As @KenONeill has put get a drop test done - however with a place that sells batteries I wonder how large their fail section is on the gauge (RAC vans seem to be buggers for it, they must be on commission). The car can start, headlights are bright but that doesn't mean the battery isn't n a lower state of charge, IIRC the computers run off their own 5v supplies and being computers are extremely fussy and temperamental about their working conditions. If you work at Halfords and don't have the time or inclination to try the long, slow, low recharge route then get the best battery you can, 5 year warranty, cheaper batteries are a false economy (and check the clamping bar on the battery as Halfords has a different numbering system for their batteries. I fitted a Halfords battery to a neighbour's that he'd bought (over-priced and undersized) and as he wouldn't let me cut of the additional plastic foot bar I spent 20 minutes adjusting his car's clamp to get it to fit this incorrect holding bar.

Most people start the car up and drive off immediately, even I sometimes do it in the modern car (Fabia) but I still think it's worthwhile to do the old fashioned thing as with cars from the last century, that is turn the ignition on (all entertainment and communication off (not turn back on) and give it a second or two whilst you check all the warning lights and gauges, and put your seatbelt on. If everything checks out start the car, and give it 10, 20, 30 seconds before pulling off to hear the sounds of the engine and check the warning lights and gauges again to make sure all is well. This won't alter all the stuff the modern car has to do to prepare and check itself and all the computers' programs to untangle their panties but it gives you a chance to get used to the different sounds at different times of year and environment. I often think the Fabia sounds a bit different (or 'rough') from initial start up and left a number of seconds, but if it's the same different (or 'rough') under the same circumstances as the previous time(s) and everything runs well I don't worry. When you hearing sounds you've not noticed before you then start to listen harder and can hear other sounds too, sometimes they do need investigating other times it's just a matter of the sounds have always been there but you've not noticed. ETA: I had no idea about these flaps either, I'm surprised the windows are allowed to be down. On my car, when cold, I start it with the choke, fiddle with the choke cable to get the right amount of fast idle, then reverse out through the petrol enriched fumes, often thinking I could have done with less choke.

Then let them keep up with you! The power band can be quite surprising, they're for eco driving so whilst you don't want to labour it you don't need high revs. Go back to anticipating traffic and setting the gaps for more constant steady progress rather than the normal everyday jerky, lumpy, hit the pedals (rather than caress) that we all do. Pretend your on the milk float in Father Ted or you're going for a world mpg mpk record or that petrol is at 2022 prices!

Sorry I mixed up my generations and marks, I am very old with wonky eyes, skim reading when I can't, and overheated (before the thunderstorm anyway).

Might be worth having a look, normally I'd say get the oil as hot as possible but that would be inducing too much strain here (remember I am NOT mechanical) but it might still be worth a look as you can clean up its bottom and get your magnifying glass out to look for signs of issues, or they may be glaringly obvious. If you enjoying rolling on the ground covering yourself in oil, then why not, I've had enough of that over the hottest days of the year, and I've yet to top up the oil level so now we get a thunderstorm.

Sorry but if the mechanics looked and listened then I think you probably have your answer, something in the engine and possibly beyond economic repair (as they say). Unless you've got a full and accurate service record of the car from new you won't know how well it's been looked after during different periods of its life. Usually first owner gets it serviced for warranty period but after that often anything goes. High mileage (km) journeys at a steady reasonable speed can be a lot less wearing on many parts and components than very low mileage. I don't know if that engine and built at that time has a history of such faults at this age or mileage but it doesn't really matter as you have to deal with what you actually have. Without a definitive answer as to what the problem actually is it's a gamble how long and/or well the engine will carry on so best to make sure the oil is warmed and drive it steadily without labouring it. No dragstrip starts, too high or too low revs, overloading the car particularly up steep hills. Your mission, should you chose to accept it, is to keep the engine going for as long as possible, report back in a year for your badge.

@uncle fester I had to check myself, but the reason your thread was moved and for the conformation of model year is that the Fabia 3 started in 2014 so yours should be a a Fabia second generation. If your concern is about the quality of fuel or rubber hose then you are correct to be concerned as for the last 15 years I've had problems with ****-poor rubbish rubber parts and (petrol) hoses, all wrongly or badly made. If you stick to reputable brands from reputable suppliers you should be OK, I'd go with brands like Goodyear and Gates but there others and smaller brands that will be good. Getting lots of different products are currently difficult, I'm waiting for my third choice of tyres as stocks are low or unavailable in time for me.

Depends on how big and open the city is but I live in a large town and there can be a lot of stopping and slow moving traffic during the busy times. A 1.0l is more like a city car engine size, I think it is the engine from the smaller Citigo so most people would perhaps go for that model in a city I'd have thought. Of course a 1.0 is easier on insurance so perhaps a youngster had the car, or a bigger physical person or one that need a longer chassis to absorb the bumps more, bad back perhaps. 151,000 divided by say 6 years = 25km/year which is a lot for a city car, perhaps it was a group or family pool car, or they had a far off weekend retreat. When you emptied out the first lot of oil from getting the car was it clean as if recently changed and/or with floating 'fillers' or bits? If the oil was sludge-like or with 'fillers', same for oil filter, then perhaps cleaning them out of the engine has highlighted a problem, that was perhaps previously hidden. If you're careful a large screwdriver or stick to your (protected) ear run along the underside of the engine might highlight the area of noise, I'm not mechanical so don't know if those symptoms sound correct to what your 3 mechanics said but if they didn't see or examine the car it's just speculation on their part, sometimes embarrassingly simple things can make noises well beyond their significance. Only as an example, I'm not saying it's the case for you, but I had a manifold gasket go and it sounded to me very mechanical, engine type noise, so after getting to the pub I took it easy going back home. Basically a bit of paper type stuff upsetting the running of the engine but easily and cheaply sorted. Years later the next manifold gasket blow sounded nothing like the previous but more like I expected it would.

Just to confirm, are you say it has 156k-kms (97k-miles) on the clock? Put in whatever weight of oil is specified in the Operator's Manual, go with better quality oil for better protection rather than additives, the correct Mobil 1 or correct Castrol Edge are good, go better if you want, plus not cheap oil filters at changes. Are you sure it's not just a coincidence that the noise started after your oil change, are you sure the noise is actually from the engine. You always want to keep the car battery in a good state of charge otherwise the computers can get awkward about running the car. Have you checked with a scan tool to see what comes up. Are the service items taken care of like air filter, spark plugs, (clean throttle control). Any idea how the 151,000 km was done. That's me out of ideas time for tea.

It looks similar or the same to me but it's not clear as to which way you "press the catch" but is the arrowed in image below a spring or catch (or pointy stud screw thingy).

ETA: I was still typing this as @rum4mo posted. Martin as you can appreciate sounds are often difficult to diagnose especially over written posts. Having had "classic" (over priced and valued old cars) I feel the same advice I give for those with low mileage applies to modern cars too. Low mileage can mean lots of very short length journeys and possibly very few or no reasonable or long length journeys. On short journeys the engine oil might not warm enough, if around town proportionately there'd be lots more gear changing per mile and possibly more (lighter) braking so the vehicle actually needs proportionately more attention and servicing than higher mileage vehicles, certainly per mile. What you're hearing might be something or relatively nothing but what I done for my wife's 2015, 38K-mile, 5-speed, Fabia (with no problems) was to change the transmission oil, a relatively easy job (otherwise it'd be beyond me) and low cost job. She said she noticed an improvement in the feel of the gear changes and she wouldn't just say that to please me. Now I see you've put the gears are smooth changing but again this is relative and you might also say the engine seems to be running fine but I bet you'd still have the engine oil changed. I'm not suggesting changing the oil will cure any design or build fault but it will help to maintain the transmission and possibly keep it in better condition for longer - and if you empty out the existing oil you can see what condition it's in and if they are any bits in it.. Same applies to engine oil and the coolant, usually it's just tested for it's antifreeze capability but that's not the only job the coolant carries out, I've bought coolant to change on my wife's even thought the dealership has made no mention of changing it. With a low mileage modern diesel it'd need some blow-out "Italian tune-up" runs or it'd clog itself up especially if it's always run on standard diesel and never gets cleaning additives. I'd ensure the air filter is changed as regularly as require for it's use and consider cleaning the MAF sensor, again often a very easy job (once you've worked how to get to it). Of course the engine and transmission are relatively unimportant compared to brakes, steering, suspension, lights, horn and windows. Brake fluid is serviced changed at every two years (after the first 3 IIRC) but can be forgotten about, one person's (and seller's) full service history may vary to another's interpretation of such, to some an engine oil & filter change is a full service. Tyres - are an often overlooked complex component on a vehicle, they effect the braking, steering, suspension, road hold and handling, comfort and noise. Despite having lots of tread left on them they can go hard from age and/or lack of use compromising their performance, which you particularly don't want for braking, road hold and handling. I know you didn't ask about all this but I've no idea how much you know about cars generally and how many other Fabia TDI SE 1.4 diesels you have driven as a comparison to yours to know, well, er, how it compares - the noise might just be the turbo but I don't know at what revs it kicks in and out on your vehicle. HTH, cheers, Nigel

What about this. - https://cardiagn.com/skoda-fabia-mk3-2015-2019-2020-workshop-manuals-wiring-diagrams/

Have a look here, free PDF downloads. - https://cardiagn.com/skoda-fabia-mk3-2015-2019-2020-workshop-manuals-wiring-diagrams/

If it wasn't working on 4 then that wasn't the resistor but that's not to say the resistor couldn't also be faulty. Going to the effort of stripping down cleaning and testing rather than just replacing with new doesn't happen as often as it should nowadays so you at least gained there. I often put that much servicing, maintenance and repairs often just boils down to clean and lubricate and it still apply to modern cars. You've got it sorted and didn't need around £200 (wow) for a new motor so that's good.

Build quality of LED bulbs can vary a lot, some are very low quality and a waste of time effort and money even if the purchase cost is low. The LED bulbs of course do need to be suitable to the car's lighting system. For the computer bits you ask about I would not know but I would guess it would be coding issues if all the correct parts and systems are already on your car but whether this would interfere or confuse other systems I would not know, you do need to be very careful about hacking or altering any computer program and the ones on even 5 year old cars seem to me to be very complex and invasive.

Or can send the car's computers dolally and give them headaches and put them in a bad mood. Always best to have the car's battery and the batteries in the keyfobs in a good state of charge. I (try to) alternate which keyfob is used to keep the batteries wear more even and it also means you know where to find the spare keyfob and that it works.

So what was the problem?