nta16

As I put before YOU CAN change the date of your MoT - you could go out this afternoon and get an MoT. The MoT is NOT a health check, but it is a check that the car meets a minimum roadworthy condition, mainly to one trained person's point of view at that one point in time, anything could happen at any point after this that might or would reverse the decision. For decades many people have misunderstood and put too much faith in a car having an MoT. The condition and terms of a car being sold or purchased is up to the seller and purchaser, it takes two parties to make the contract. Mostly the sellers don't want to service the car "between services" because of the cost and buyers don't want to contribute to that extra cost because they only want to stick to the servicing schedule. The MoT and servicing don't need to be done together, it may be more convenient but not necessary, you could go out this afternoon and get an MoT, and the vehicle may need servicing before or after an MoT for many reasons, harsh use, large additional mileage. Surely you want your car to pass an MoT at any point without the need for servicing at that point. Sorry but you've lost me here, you put the car was last fully serviced in February 2020 so surely it's overdue a service, why would the dealership want to change that notice, if anything happened to the car until you decided to get it serviced you may want to blame them for it. Do I understand correctly that you want to leave servicing the car and Moting the car until Feb 22? ETA: AFAIK, others might know differently, you can just leave the reminder showing until the next service it won't do anything other than remind you, a mate's done this for years on his car.

Hi Softie42, sorry but you're confusing an MoT as anything directly to do with vehicle servicing. The MoT is more of a statutory safety check and fitness of the vehicle to be on the road. Realise the MoT is just basically a lot to do with one trained person's point of view of the vehicle at that one point of time only, that it passes the minimum requirements at that point of inspection, it doesn't mean the vehicle is good or running well and that the vehicle doesn't need servicing, maintenance or repairs. As e-Roottoot has already put you can change the MoT date by simply having it done before 11 months from previous - in the 12th month (minus a day) you can get an MoT and keep the same renewal date. It surprises many that very low mileage in many ways can be more detrimental to a car than higher mileage, cars that sit for long periods without being driven over reasonable length journeys, such as old overpriced and over-valued cars called "classics" but also modern cars, can need more attention to them and will have issues and potentially problems from the inactivity. Parts can deteriorate with time as well as use and short intermittent use can be very wearing. 2,315 miles isn't a lot but those could be more wearing than a much, much higher mileage over the same period depending on the conditions they were done in. The car batteries is my concern with these modern cars, come the first and particularly second cold autumn/winter weather I expect to see lots of posts about battery problems and computers throwing up errors messages and causing issues with the cars because the car batteries are in low states of charge or condition. The long periods of inactivity and the very hot weather this year will catch many out, battery sales will be high and no doubt more breakdown callouts and repair work for garages - much of it will have been avoidable had more know how to and/or be bothered.

All good advice. But I wouldn't want to fart and fiddle about removing two Fabia Mk3 rear light units unless I really have to. With my old car I'd change both bulbs each side of the car and keep the working one that was on the car as a spare. In this case, there wasn't a non-working bulb just a dash warning to say there was. Not always the case, given my Mk4 Cortina story which wouldn't even confirm the bulb.

All possible but why so intermittent (or once, depending on accuracy of memory) - we need to get the information out of the computers see exactly when and why this happened, I'll happily interrogate them given the chance. Why is it that the part(s) fails the computer's test yet when you turn the computer off 'n' on again the fails don't remain or return. Another new well, NOSS (new old shed stock) non-dud (so far) P21 bulb was fitted and that might have appeased the computers for now but who knows.

Sorry, I meant to put, it's the only thing driven but not the only thing on the belt there's the means of drive. Removing the belt takes the load off the driving end reducing or removing strains and tensions as per Wino's earlier post. Also sorry my mind defaults to older cars with older design's of ancillaries with alternator pullies being held on by large nuts, I am very old and feeble-minded.

I hope that wasn't a Skoda dealer as it should be on their parts program, giving part number and description. It's a plastic screw-on plug-cap thingy, rather like a tube/barrel nut fitting, but anything similar would do that would thread on to the the (threaded) black metal stud below the fixing hole in the footrest, it'd need a wide rim-collar-washer to go across the circular opening in the footrest for the fitting to hold it secure. You need a torch to see the fixed black metal threaded stud in the middle of the footrest hole (if the footrest hasn't slipped). I'll try to describe it - all black plastic, 10mm hex head above (attached) wide flange (rim-collar-washer) then 1cm depth tube that fits around and screws on to the fixed (black) metal threaded stud. I've not checked size and thread of the stud but it's possibly M6 - link is only as an (M5) example to give the idea of what I mean but this is a Torx (security, centre pin) socket button head and not 10mm (raised) hex head . - https://www.accu.co.uk/en/security-torx-button-head-barrel-nuts/63209-HHSN-M5-10-A2 HTH.

Most of the things like the tensioner and alternator will be more like the old 'fan belt' noises which aren't knocking noises. I think it's a good idea to check for anything that can be reasonably done to reduce any strains or tensions with the use of the belt. The belt can transfer some strain and tension from one area to another and conversely strains or tension areas can transfer to the belt to transmit - think of a recent global event, it's all about interactions. Replacing any part that is faulty or severely underperforming will help but replacing parts that are performing tolerably or reasonably depends on budget and expectations of improvement and you don't want to replace parts that are working more than reasonably as you may want or need to use the funds elsewhere. I'm sure you've researched this but a couple of general offerings.- Alternator Clutch Pulley Symptoms: Diagnosed and resolved overrunning alternator pulley - By Dencan Brain (text) - https://toolsbible.com/alternator-clutch-pulley-symptoms/ Testing Alternator Pulley Clutch - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Duj1jh1rlAa And a VW/Skoda specific, (must be a hybrid accent?) - Alternator clutch pulley diagnose and replacing, VW / AUDI /SEAT / SKODA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fyosuYbPxr4 Cheers.

I forgot to mention before to check belt for wear, rubbing and cracking but assume it was OK. With a new belt tensioner fitted it should be easier to hear if the alternator bearings are noisy with the engine running and careful use of hose. If the alternator bearing feels smooth and tight and you've checked the alternator fixings are tight too then I can't see the alternator pulley effecting anything unless it's loose, in which case (usually?) it can be tighten. Taking above into consideration or action, without see or hearing the knocking, over the internet only, it tends towards the engine knocking noise rather than the alternator as that's more of a grind/squeal/whistle sorts of noise.

Hi, JGrindel, yes that is possible, as with what I put above about the Mk4 Cortina bulb, but I don't think it's the case this time as the brakes have been applied numerous times since and numerous potholes have been encountered. I did a few easy tests like having the brakelights on continuously for a full two minutes then during the third minute tapping the lenses and applying about 14st to the hatch sill to get the suspension bouncing. I didn't bother removing the lenses to get at the bulb as I don't like fatiguing, particularly external, plastic unnecessarily It might be a wiring or connection problem somewhere but if it is it's very internment so far. Having decades experience of car wiring and computers my very small bet remains on the computer(s) but if I'm wrong I will report so as I'm not a mechanic or auto-electrician with a reputation or ego to protect or want or need to blame someone or something else as I already have a large collection of personal balls-ups so one more makes no odds. 😄 I realise as I don't have proof it's the computer, or wiring or connections and it's easier to eliminate the bulb so that's now what I've done, just replaced it based on your post (as usual I forgot to test the new bulb before putting it in). I gave all the bulbs and connectors a quick spray of electrical contact cleaner, Contralube 770 on connector pins and cleaned the cavity area behind the light unit. Sod's Law the bulb didn't light up, on testing the bulb it was a (another) dud! This was a bulb from previous boot stock, when Halfords used blue background on their labelling (before current orange), looked absolutely fine , new never used and stored in shed so no vibrations. (Moan, moan.) Another play with the polished lens unit that tries to escape your hand like a wriggling fish, risking breaking the tang hooks again on the plastic for bulbs holder plate, then pushing the whole unit on its two stud locators to try to line up correctly for the two screws - what a ****-poor design and fiddle and farting about to change a bulb. (Moan, moan.) If I remember and can be bothered I'll solder wires directly to the bulb I took out and connect it to a 12v battery and leave it alight while I try too literally shake the life out of it. (Moan, moan). Oooh, the utter joy of farting about with cars - I still think it's the computer(s) though. (Moan, moan). 😒

In the public car park to the micropub we tried out 1st and reverse gear with the windows down to listen for a click, only the clunk of gear engagement could be heard inside and out. Are you sure the click's not from something else perhaps like brakes or handbrake or suspension?

Difficult one as some of the worst communicators can do the best work and visa-versa and anywhere between the two. You certainly want conformation before the work is done that it fully complies with what's required to manufacturers standards (or better). No matter how good the present clutch seems I think most would want to change it for new at this stage unless not authorised to do so.

Sounds like the Swing Plus is just not very good. Might they be more for those that listen to music through phones and computers without earplugs or headphones. I think I'm a generation too old to know what Capitol Radio play but I'm certainly old enough to know Rotel and B&W, had my first set of (s/h) B&Ws in 1982 and above my head now our second set, brand new in the late 1990s IIRC but I couldn't remember all the other different speakers I've had. Good luck.

Sometimes with a manual gearbox you can hear a muted clunk sort of sound but whether yours is normal or not difficult to say. If it's first or reverse sometimes the gear is selected by some drivers too soon and/or at too higher revs. You might hear more when the engine and gearbox and their olds are cold but again its difficult to say how much or if at all. One way around it is to drive another model of the same age and about mileage with the same gearbox has the dealership got such a model you could try? If the click is loud enough perhaps you could record it for others here to, er, hear.

Sounds like you've got it covered. In which case unless there's a faulty a software update/upgrade probably won't help, sorry, but you could ask just in case others have found a solution. Dance music, da ya mean Glenn Miller. Perhaps time for some speech radio Radio 4, Radio 4 Extra, BBC World Service - or Radio 5s and LBC if your on that side of the road or up the wall. Sorry I can't help other than my previous suggestions such as try asking on the 'I need Bolero Update :-)' thread or perhaps start a 'I need a Swing Plus improvement' thread. Best of luck.

Hi, welcome, best to add which gearbox you have.

Martin, if this DMF proved so bad on your model/year is there any come back from Skoda? Any info or details on here perhaps? Explain to the garage the history and you wanting to test drive the car after the conversion before you take the car in so everyone knows what is expected, I see no problem whatsoever in you test driving the car after the work. I like your new profile photo, colour coordinated (coded!) too. Let's hope 7th September is the end of the issue and you're just back to normal service and driver maintenance.

I'm still at a lost with this, are Skoda saying the DMF (with?, without? stop/start) has so many issues and is so bad that they recommend it be replaced with a SMF conversion? And that you can't get the DMF & clutch to do a like for like replacement? As the garage that fitted the (wrong type?) of DMF are refitting the previous parts and giving a full refund (plaudits to them for this) for now at least I'd go with A G Falco's idea of getting used to working with the clutch pedal (to accelerator pedal at pulling away) control. If it's found that it can't happily be worked around or if the problem gets a lot worse then the £1,500 expenditure could be considered.

Both, is it the "stereo" or the speakers or perhaps both, have you asked the Skoda Dealer or Skoda UK about this?. You could try asking on the 'I need Bolero Update :-)' thread or perhaps start a 'I need a Swing Plus improvement' thread. Perhaps the Bolero is just very good, I used to be a (home) hi-fi nut until I run out of money and realised I was listening to the equipment rather than the music and I'd gone off the music and I find the Bolero in my wife's 2015 Fabia SE has a good sound so that might have set the bar high for the Swing Plus but I don't know as I've never heard one. Most (perhaps younger) people seem to want far too much (vibrating and distorting) bass to my ears and I used to listen to recorded heavy (metal) rock, cathedral organs and such like so I'm not adverse to a bit of bass but it needs to be clean, You'll not like this but have you tried listening to the music at a lower 'volume' level where you may be able to blend the sound better - you don't want it fully distracting the driver from concentrating on driving the car.

Wow, I'm crushed, you've let me down and disappointed me, I thought you'd got an 'in' to factory build info. I'm used to overpriced and over-valued old cars called "classics" where there are "experts" who claim to know what parts, paints and trim would have been on the car when it left the factory based on records - of British, and European, car builds in the 50s-80s. Totally ridiculous to fully trust those records that were/are available for those cars back then and to think anything worked to strict standards of supply and fit. I've had a few British cars built by Roberts (remember the Not the 9 O'clock News sketch).

How do you know it's working then!

Which CAR DATA service is this, do you have a link?

I thought the VIN would give Skoda UK (Skoda dealer network) detailed specs of that VIN build at factory?

Yeah I had a vague feeling there might have been before but not now but I wouldn't trust it to last too long on a modern made car without attention and one of the computers throwing a wobbly about it and the need of expensive repairs. We'll be going back to the old days of cars being junk at 10 years old or less.

Martin, no worries or apologised needed, I'm old, I've literally lost the plot of this, I'll have to wait for the edited version to be released. Another thing you've learnt, and I can confirm many times over, is that all databases have errors and omissions, just because they're on a computer of some sort doesn't make them an exception. And from experience I can tell you cross reference lists tend to be even worse with errors and omissions from the source databases copied and even perhaps some new ones added. Parts manufacturer's and suppliers databases, catalogues and websites can have errors for years even if they've been notified of the error, with tens of thousands of items listed and crosslinking even if it's corrected at one part it can remain wrong at others, and worst still people seem to accept it more easily because it's on "a computer"! I recently spent two hours going through cross-reference database sorting a correct oil filter for a mate after he ordered from three different motor factor shops who got for him three different makes and numbers filters but they were the same as each and wrong. But I've also ordered wrong parts for myself and for others by making an error or not doing enough cross-checking with with enough reliable sources of info.

Blimey how many pages are these CAR DATA printouts, my 1977 printed paper 'Parts Catalogue' is 341 pages I can't see any place wanting to use that much paper and ink.