nta16

With my wife's 2015 it wasn't corrosion but the VW grease either run or not done right on assembly, I'm not sure what number fuse it is on my wife's car but I put a photo up, if you have not already seen it here's the notes I made for the work (you can click on link directly below). - If the battery is the original then someone has looked after it so it might be worth continuing to look after it to get even more reliable useful life out of it as these batteries aren't cheap and you enter the world (and debate) of 'coding' the new battery too. As the car is new to you it might be a good idea to fully charge the battery to full (car's happy at about 80%) with an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the car's 'Owners Manual' and for the charger. The £15 Lidl or Aldi ones are fine for the job but you can spend £70, £80, £120+ on more fancy and more fashionable ones if you prefer. As you have a 2016 car, and a VW product at that, you will have a few things perhaps to do on the car, plus its a 9 year old car, so a good read of the 'Owner's Manual' can sometimes help to avoid some unnecessary visits to a garage, mechanic, auto-electrician. If you don't have the paper printed version of the 'Owner's Manual' then there's a VWŠkoda site for free pdf downloads. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Hi, welcome. Things have moved in the last 30 years, forward, back and sideways but the basics remain the same and available for much DIYing. Even more important now to read the Driver's Handbook ('Owner's Manual') to avoid unnecessary and expensive visits to Dealership/garage/mechanics/auto-electricians - and to look after the 12v battery(ies). 2014 keeps you in with better odds than later years. I remember a mate having a Superb and at the time it seem such a big car, not now of course with all the modern "SUV" tanks. If you've not already seen it Briskoda has a Superb section also with a Mk3 forum. Good luck. Superb forums -https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/171-%C5%A1koda-superb/

You don't say where you are located, perhaps if you are in the UK VW don't considered an external fuel filter is necessary. In the video the filter looks very obvious, not the usual black part against a black background all covered in oil and or other crap, so if you can't see it it might not be a part fitted to your car.

You either are very concerned about such things or you recognise it and act accordingly, avoid getting into accidents as much as you can by driving appropriately, if you don't have a safer car be a safer driver which includes being aware of the unsafe drivers in their safer vehicles around you. Imagine how much worse things could be if/when you are a pedestrian, horse-rider, cyclist, road-worker, etc.. Fiat Cinquecento Sporting, 1107 cc (7 cc over the UK "road tax" threshold at the time) 53 hp, full of FIAT faults but great fun to drive without the need of impressive or made up acceleration or top speed figures. - And red seatbelts so it must have been a sportscar. 😁

I agree there's a lot of misunderstanding about the stop/start and generally battery use and drain. This benefits the motor trade. The stop/start won't kick in if it thinks the battery is too low for it anyway, which should be a notification or warning to the driver/owner that the battery charge might be low and need for charging by some method. Often though this is ignored repeatedly and continuously because the engine starts so the battery can't be that bad. Hence the continuing number one reason for breakdown call-outs continues as it has for x-many years (decades?) and in reality very, very rarely is it truly the fault of the battery. And we are getting into peak season for such stuff.

Sorry I missed your reply. Do bear in mind this is an English language site and that Rsedmonds put the figures up as psi and that most readers are not engineers. So, if I have correctly understood what you have put, new engine 145 - 218 psi with tolerance of 44 psi between cylinders but a (median) average of 181 psi with an accepted difference of 44 psi. 145 - 189 - 174 - 160 - is acceptable as new 130 - 116 - 174 - 145 - is not acceptable 101 - 116 - 145 - 131 - is considered acceptable and at the limit of wear. Either my memory is bad on this (very possible) or even for worn 1960s and 1970s British engines the allowable tolerances weren't as wide, generous, as the German engineers allow. If Rsedmonds's figures are correct it makes the engine acceptable and once sorted a top of the range. With decent oil and petrol it will fly.

No idea on your model but if it's not on the underside of the car at the back, fuel filler cap side, then possibly as put in the tank.

So in conclusion the Fabia Mk4's Climatronic controls, at least, are (unnecessarily) over complicated. My wife's Mk3 Fabia with 'basic' heating and ventilation controls still takes a very long time, despite a few "hacks" to speed the process, to clear the windscreen safely for driving so the car has to remain parked up with the engine running which is wasteful and not best practice for the engine. This is yet another example of the continuing misconception that German car engineering (design and build) quality is high, most of the high quality left the German car marques last century.

Any Felicia owners able to help out with JoJa2K's Favorit ? Shout out in no particular order - @D.FYLAKTOS @Thefeliciahacker @R_U_AFA @Papez

Hi, welcome. As well as other sections on Briskoda, if you have not already been there, there is a full Octavia section. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/169-%C5%A1koda-octavia/ And 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades'. -https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/212-performance-tuning-upgrades/ HTH.

My thought was towards fabiamk4man and others and the possibilities for the car to become beyond economic repair for various reasons for average owners giving average servicing, maintenance and care to their cars, you are very much above this average but some of the effects may also impact you, computer programs, systems, more expensive items on the later cars, events beyond your control. A 2009 car kept 16 tears to 2025 will be a different experience than a 2023 car kept until 2039. My last car, used as everyday and for leisure and motor club use in the UK and Europe, I kept for 16 years (with lots of work and expense due to the ****-poor quality of the motor trade generally) and it was 49 years old when it left me. I used to drive and do a little bit of work on my neighbour's 2005 car, that is still being used. I enjoyed driving that small cheap 2005 car more than my wife's 2015 Fabia or other neighbour's 2023 car. I have some idea of keeping older and old cars going but can only speculate on a 2023 car and the future. As you can tell I'd not be a fan of any 2023 car generally and based on my wife's 2015 Fabia I'd personally not want it to be a Fabia or VW product generally. Others will have different experiences and views of course particularly on a VWŠkoda site. 🙂

There were some real muppets back then and I expect now, some you'd not trust to remove a sump plug in case they choked themselves with it and if they didn't and put it back in cross thread it to ******. Then there were also some totally dishonest and/or lazy plus of course considering all customers as something they'd trod in - all taught to them by others in the trade including their employers. Not that all customers are angels, I know that from experience of previous lives.

Keith, before fitting the new battery I always fully charge it to 100% before fitting with an appropriate battery charger (maintainer) that way I know the battery was at 100% when fitted. As the battery is new it shouldn't take long to do this. Yes the PITA VW computer system will have it down to 80% soon with use but I also do (very) occasional preventive recharges using an appropriate battery charger as car batteries are expensive and VW computers don't like slightly low 12v batteries. If you want or need to fit the new battery then do so don't wait for 'coding' the world won't end despite how some feel it might. Read the car's 'Owner's Manual' for disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and check what might need resetting after disconnection, basically if you have all electrics turned off, electric windows and sunroof fully closed before disconnection then it's just the time of day clock that needs resetting. Once the new battery is fitted start the engine, turn on the headlights and air-con and turn the steering wheel full lock either way this should confirm with the dumb car computers that the battery is in a good state. Turn them off and go for a drive to settle other dumb computer systems on the car. If you fit the new battery before 'coding' is sorted and you have followed belt, braces and bit of chewing-gum suggestions above and the battery, car, your house or neighbours' house blows up please rush back to let everyone know the dangers. 😁

As always it's each to there own, to do as you please or suits you. Unless I was doing 18-20,000 miles in 12 months or under I would have the oil changed every 12 months anyway, just ask or tell the Dealership to do that, they ain't gonna turn the money down, as for warranties AFAIK in Europe the work don't have to be done at an official Dealership as long as the work done and parts and materials used are good enough. As for hot oil, note I put warm (hot), whoever is doing the work is responsible for Health & Safety, theirs and other peoples, over the decades I've done a few warm (hot) drain oil changes on engines, gearboxes and rear diffs and despite not being mechanical and a bit clumsy I've never had any trouble with the oil being warm (hot) - other than some always missing the bowl(s) and going on the ground, we don't all have lifts or pits or even any sort of shelter from the elements when it's too hot, too cold, too wet too windy, oh, the joys. ☹️ Farting about with cars is always a dirty, messy business, particularly petrol and worse still diesel engines but you do what you can to avoid oil, grease, rubber, dust, dirt and debris as much as you can getting on you and your clothes. Professionals are often more interested in speed of the job, and getting on to the next job, than taking time, being thorough (and giving a **** for many of them in my experience). Professional just means you're doing it as paid work not necessarily that you are any good at the job. I only started doing work on my cars because I was fed up or sorting and redoing properly work I'd already paid professionals to do, often I would do a better job not because I was better but because I cared about the quality of the work and outcome and didn't give myself time pressures. Is it worth worrying about any sort of real longevity on a 2023 car to make it worthwhile to worry about a bit of extra effort with the engine oil and just go with what many (most?) others do and just meet the minimum requirements for warranty then get the least expensive oil for whenever you feel the need for an engine oil change.

Longlife is more of a marketing term as an oil needs changing when it needs changing and that could be before or after any set regime, any good oil or better oil will generally be long(er) life than a lesser oil. As I put I think a thorough, warm (hot) drain oil change is more beneficial that a cold oil suck out. Getting the oil to full working temperature 90+c (view the oil temperature rather than coolant temperature for this) each time the engine is run will also help and extend the service life of the oil. Always annoying to see how much lower the oil prices in Europe (and America) but as it's often just a once a year change in the overall cost of owning and running a car paying a bit extra for oil makes fractional difference. Unless it is on very special offer I personally would never pay for oil just because it is labelled as VW (brands).

Checking all electrics and electronics certainly even on new, refurbed or s/h parts. Also as suggested programing /'coding' balls-up, errors and omissions, updates, are always a possibility with computer systems, thank gawd we don't rely on them.

If you adopt a bad body posture when you are young you will really regret in later life. Hopefully you don't vape at all - or mess about with your phone whilst driving or hold it out of the window as I saw one black VW Golf Gti do earlier this year on a local road unfortunately I was walking in the other direction and don't own one of these camera phones.

Then if you want to sit lower in the seat you need to reduce the cushioning and under support that is currently supporting and lifting you, get your buttocks nearer the floor like race and rally cars or black (they're always black, if only from the soot if diesel, in UK) VW Golf GTi (and it used to be baseball cap on backwards, not so much now or you can't see for the vape smoke).

If you thin out, or wear out, the seat base foam and under support you with sit lower in/on the seat base so the back rest will be higher from the base. Opposite of when an old seat is very worn and you just put a board in for support and to raise your body. Wide board for a German marque seat of course. 😁

Do not put too much/excessive, er, weight, or consideration on the oil grade or grade range figures or other specification figures, as with the cars, the oils have been blended for wide use and conditions and with some compromises, plus real world use over real time may give slightly different results and outcomes to formula testing. And then it depends on how strictly VW control the blender in what VW want from the oils. I would guess VW exercise a lot of control hence the VW specifications numbers, same as other manufacturers I know, partly marketing but possibly to help cover the design and build compromises of the engine (gearbox) as all mass market engines must have. Of course I would never suggest flaws in anything VW builds or does. 😁 If anyone thinks a car manufacturer has its customers' best interests at heart then I can introduce them to an African military person who can offer them a fantastic investment opportunity. 😄 (one for older reader there 😄).

Wow, I remembered correctly, not a first but happens less and less often now. 😄 The chaps need to forget any fashionable race or track seating positions as sit sensibly in the car not how some book or perceived wisdom suggests and not for optimum fast driving steering and gear change as you are in a very compromised road car not a race or track car with customised and personalised seating. As I put only Sweden put any real effort into their seats for safety and comfort, certainly not the German marques generally as we know VW are very happy to make compromises and even not care less about some aspects and/or lie and cheat so never expect too much from VW. It used to be smaller cheaper cars were aimed at the mass market those with less money than can afford the bigger and more luxurious cars and, as a total generalised, previous generations of people with less money were smaller and shorter possibly partly because they weren't getting as much high protein food and had more lower/different health issues to those with more wealth. Off course things changed when more rubbish food and drinks were more widely consumed, thanks Yanks. 😄 (one for D.Fylakos there 😄) The seat bolsters and harness are fine for track and race use but it concerns me to see them on road cars as it means the occupants have less idea of the speed and movement of the car and encourages more speed and less sensations input. I must admit I do feel odd the few times I've been in an old car that doesn't have seat belts or just the lap belt but I got used to it (compulsory wearing of seatbelts wasn't introduced to the UK until the early 1980s IIRC). Too greater feeling of security encourages greater recklessness, if in an accident all the safety features keep you safe so it doesn't matter (of course this isn't always true but that's another matter). Remember that baby-brained Lewis Hamilton in his early season of (hero-worship) roundy-round race driving crashing a car cos he wasn't winning knowing he'd be safe. As always for seats and everything else with cars, each to their own it'd not be good if we all thought alike, as long as it's legal do as you please.

Have I misunderstood or are VW engineers margins that wide(!?). So new, if going on +/- (?) 44 psi just simple maths (plural) would be 101- 261 psi? And more than 10% across cylinder is fine and it's just my poor memory?

😄I've just noticed the MX-5 floor mat. 😄

If you're happy with Julian's books great and if your seat customisation works for you great too. Generally German car seats bases at least are too long in the leg and too wide, I expected German people are generally talleer and wider than me. I can't remember the SAAB seat but (older models) Volvo seats were the best for me, they took seriously the seats which makes sense when you consider how long you could be sitting in them. My wife said the (early Merc, when they balls'd them up) smart seats were most comfortable seats for her, must have been pre-Merc design. 😄

IIRC a head restraint was/is(?) supposed to touch or restrain the back of the head about level with your eyes, but my memory ain't the best.