nta16

Hi, welcome. Sorry I know very, very little of the DSG other than I've never liked the idea back from original Aldi TT days (that VW model had loads of initial issues). Hopefully others will follow with more and better information. If you have not already done so you could look in other VWŠkoda model forums on this site about the DQ200 which might give firmer information and/.or conformation. I don't know but would guess the change from mineral to synthetic was about the make up of the oil rather than just a synthetic versus mineral oil issue. Whether the original oil make up was another VW error or the error of the oil supplier I've no idea but would think the oil supplier could blend to customer's instructions. So whatever brand is your choice for oils I would contact them to find out what their database has for which oils. I don't know which oil company was the original supplier and which oil company provide VW labelled oil bottles now (VW put a Quantum label at the moment). @Guest_ often posted information abouts DSG boxes, as in that thread you linked to. There are are YT videos of DSG boxes being serviced but sorry I don't know if they include the DQ200 or if there are any good videos on it. Good luck.

Fair enough but it is up to him what he wants to offer for display, or not.

The ram air just being on the car might give him the respect(?) he might seek, or to fit in, but I don't think it'll be loud enough and he'll want more and louder and then other show-off bits added to the car. Then, hopefully, as he's not driving it all the time when his mother is driving it she may also be seen as anti-social by the not so young. Five or so years back when I had a sports exhaust (and K&N open filters on the twin-carbs) on a low powered 70s car I was frowned at and waved to slow down as I went through villages, especially those with close walls, at 25 mph and that exhaust sound wasn't particularly loud certainly nowhere near the excess of the last couple of years' fashion. As a mother I don't think you can have any real idea of how a 20 year old lad thinks and feels and he won't have the slightest clue how you feel so you need to be firm now even though it certainly won't be appreciated by him now he will understand more later (perhaps 5, 10, 20 years later).

Don't you have the date (time) of the posts in view?

Won't this still be a modification according to some insurance providers? There seems to be an obsession with very loud exhaust noises, back-firing, very loud resonances for some sort of pretend track car and some sort of ego willy-waving. (ETA: Mention of Rockingham Raceway might bear this out, but I thought the Cinch blokes/Directors(?) still had that as their playground?) The hose and K&N filter might give more (a little more) noise but not much and not nearly enough willy-waving ability. Sorry but being easily old enough to remember K&N induction kits and cold air induction kits I'm also of the age where I think you should be very adult with your 20 year old son and tell him where to get off. I hope you make him pay towards the upkeep, petrol and insurance for the car. Off-topic - (Rockingham, Batwoman) - do you have a partner that used to dress as Batman that previously owned a TVR and then a MX-5 with a different engine in it - or did you own a S2000 20+ years ago?

Hi, welcome. Possibly not the answer you seek - but - you can't guess or assume with these things you need to have a scan report and check to confirm and cross reference with further diagnostics and tools. Others may be along to give you more and better information and further advice.

I wasn't being literal. Many users report it helps to load up and clear some codes quicker. You have your VCDS you can look at what figures are in what fields but who knows all the car's parameters for accept error codes not required. Some things are not necessary or strictly necessary but if something is quick, easy, clean-hands to try and cause no harm why not for reassurance if nothing else, the car is one thing the owner driver is another (and much more important), wider picture sort of thing.

If you've not yet coded the battery then start the engine, put the headlights, air-con and bower on, fully turn the steering wheel fully to both left and right to show the computer that the battery has plenty of power then turn off headlights, air-con and blower as required and go for a drive to help clear any VW error codes.

P.S. You might want to check the price of the battery you have found against a supplier like Tanya Batteries and if you are going to get the battery 'coded' then you don't have to exactly match your existing battery specifications. Don't get caught up too much with bigger numbers necessarily being better as it's also about how well the battery can retain its performance and their are different specification authorities so it can be difficult for true comparisons but a good battery is a good battery and some are better than others even if a little less expensive sometimes. https://www.tayna.co.uk/Skoda-Fabia-Car-Battery

A quick look at a AL619 set of users instructions shows nothing to suggest it would do battery coding, more a code reader. - https://www.autel.com/u/cms/www/202207/08064355prti.pdf If you've not yet already replaced the battery then I would certainly try a long, low and slow recharge (matches drain) of the battery to full as described above and see how well the battery holds this and performs before rushing to replace the (expensive) battery and sort the 'coding' - in fact I've done this a good few times before. Sometimes getting much more useable and reliable life out the battery by occasional or as required preventative recharging as described. Good point made about possible drain but you will know the history of your car and battery and you use. Some favour using an expensive and fancy battery charger and/or one with a recovery or reconditioning or other description settings but I've never found the need for other than an appropriate charger (a lower amps 2, 3 or4-amp charger maintainer) and checking connections are all clean and secure and appropriately protected. But I can understand some prefer an aged battery that has gone totally flat to be replaced for sake of reassurance and convenience, just sometimes even in such cases a premature change. Good luck.

Some Briskoda members offer the use of their scanners to recode the battery (and perhaps do a health report or find and delete error codes that may be present from battery being flat) all for a beer token (more if they're professionals). See if there's one available in your area. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029 6 years isn't too bad especially compared to some but for even longer life and good usage something to consider with your new battery is occasional, or when required, preventative recharging using an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and charger maintainer's instructions (and charging the battery to full). Good luck.

Hi, welcome.

No. Yes.

Answers you might not like - full and proper servicing of the whole car (not just the VWŠkoda skimpy servicing, including more timely changes of engine air filter, spark plugs, engine oil and filter) and maintenance use the fuels with extra cleaning packages of additives good quality and condition tyres (tyres are vital parts of the braking, steering and suspension systems) further driver training - fully transferable at no cost to other cars. And/or if you've not already looked, the 'Fabia Projects' and 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forums. HTH. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/205-fabia-projects/ https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/212-performance-tuning-upgrades/

Hi, welcome. It may depend on what caused the codes in the first place and/or what you were dong on or to the car before you needed to clear the codes. If the battery had got very low and or you have just changed it then I'd try try deleting the codes again, starting the car, turn the headlights, blower and air-con on, then turn the steering full lock left and right for high electrical load, then turn them off and go for a reasonable length drive and then see if the EPC remains or comes back on. This assume the battery is at a reasonable state of charge and heath. For info, for photos generally you get more information in the shot if you take them landscape (and not portrait). Others will know more and have different advice. For VCVDS diagnostics there is another forum on Briskoda if you need more help and advice. - 'Diagnostics & VCDS' forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ HTH.

Nothing more for you but we don't want other viewers to think a new battery will cost £395, these car part places have some strange pricings - database, algorithm, AI, human error, policy, who knows why. £146.08 or even Google Euro prices seem better than £395. I've had neighbours pay about £100+ more to have a battery fitted than they need to, same or even better battery for £100+ less.

If it's only cracked personally I'd not worry about it, it doesn't look like it'll affect any light - but by the look of the condition of the lens and car your car might be cherished to you. The rear (incandescent) lights unit aren't cheap so I'd imagine the front to be an arm and a leg and a second arm for projector (plus other pain) for type of light. I've bought an aftermarket rear light unit (twice) for my wife's 2015 Fabia and the quality of those wasn't as good as a genuine VWŠkoda original but they were less than half the price brand new, although the second one was lower quiality than the first they were both the same make.

Weight and how heavy depends on what you are used to, comparing one VW(Škoda) with another is a bit limited and VW like heavy. Running the engine at a consistent 4,000 rpm (once it has fully warmed up, 90+ C oil temperature) is fine, better than lugging a loaded car at below torque band (not that I know what that is on a 1.0 MPI). If 2,000 rpm in 5th is in the torque band that is fair enough and if this can be sustained in a loaded (to your requirements) car uphill or on your journeys that is fair enough too but you will want to give the car and engine occasional brisk runs at higher revs if you want to keep the car for a very long time and retain fuel economy and good running. If you are a professional driver of 15 years and have put 200kkm on this 1.0 MPI then you have already done well with your use - and yes of course you can change transmission but what else is involved and the cost of it all is a different matter, you might get more and better information about the change from the 'Fabia projects' and 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forums where members are more used to changing to different transmissions. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/205-fabia-projects/ https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/212-performance-tuning-upgrades/ You may also want to try a test drive of a 1.0 Mk3 Fabia (or similar VW group model) with a 6-speed gearbox and perhaps another with a DSG gearbox to see if buying a used version of those cars might satisfy your wants or give you some idea, even if not MPI engine. I don't suppose you would consider looking at a different an entirely different make and model of car (not VW lot or other German manufacturer) and I have no idea of what is available at what costs in Poland HTH. Good luck with whatever you decide.

Even if you have German cars you don't have to have a Bosch (labelled battery, I'm told they're Varta anyway) but if you must Tayna Batteries, (£146.08 =) £137.19 plus £8.89 delivery (as at now). - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/bosch/s5a11/ Or you could look at other suitable sized batteries, or alternative 115 AGM batteries, to the Bosch S5 A11.

I had never heard of Imgur until now but going to their site it has. - "From September 30, 2025, access to Imgur from the United Kingdom is no longer available. UK users will not be able to log in, view content, or upload images. Imgur content embedded on third-party sites will not display for UK users." - https://help.imgur.com/hc/en-us/articles/41592665292443-Imgur-access-in-the-United-Kingdom I have no idea what can be seen elsewhere or via a VPN.

As I put, could this be the error, that the buttons don't light up. I assume the buttons turn off the child locks and also don't light up when child locks are off. Thinking about it the child locks fail-safe after an accident might be to be off so the computing programs would be complex and intertwined with lots of other systems on the car, more potential for errors and omissions, computer brain-farts, miscommunication, etc. - or just physical stuff. You might need someone with a more VW specific higher level scanner system to probe and get to the bottom of this if it's in the caer's computer programming system(s).

To be fair you can't know this for sure, you may be correct with this or you may not and anyway if he no longer wanted to have a link from this site to the images that is up to him.

Sorry, it clearly has in your thread title 1.0 MPI. My old brain got confused again. I am still not sure what you are trying to achieve. You put 3rd and 4th gear are useless does this mean normally there is only you in this car and the car is not loaded and you do town/city driving as well as motorway. Just because you can drive at 60kph (37 mph) in 5th does not mean you have to, my wife might do this for a while in her 1.2 (TSI, turbo 5-speed manual) much to my distress and used to be in 5th when she had a 559 cc (0.56 litre) car (but it was lighter than the heavy VW products of today). If 3rd and 4th are really useless then you can go from 2nd to 5th and if 110-120 kph (68-75 mph) is too high revs what revs do you want to drive at and why, what is the power band of your engine, peak torque to power. I drove a 1.0 TSI turbo 6-speed manual with drive modes and in eco the revs were very low at "recommended" (on the dash) gear selection - but - the recommended gear selection is not always appropriate or best as so far the cars' computers can register many things but not very well the vehicles ahead or road conditions that why the driver still needs to actually drive the car and make the actual decisions about such things as gear selection (and revs). You have by today's standards a lower powered (it is not in reality) car for its carrying capabilities with a heavy body (perhaps not by todays standards) so it will sometimes need higher revs to keep momentum. The 4-cylinder VW engine in my opinion have always sounded a bit rough so dropping to three cylinders (which they were not used to unlike other some other (better) manufacturers) they are not going to be the silkiest smooth particularly when maintaining higher speeds and/or revs so you get noise and vibrations. It depends on how long you want or expect to keep a car or engine as to where you set the compromise of fuel economy to engine life. Personally I would be either getting used to the car as it is, and often ignoring the dash gear recommendation and not worrying too much about higher revs or swap the car, possibly to a diesel for low revs (though personally I would never have a diesel). Hope you get more responses.

Hi, welcome. But are you serious? Sounds like you need an automatic (DSG) and/or need to change the car. Are you only interested in low revs or keeping the car (and engine for a number of years). You have me totally lost, what is it you want to achieve with a modern 3-cylinder 1.0 turbo engine'd car?

I'm getting that for all the images. The protocol is you view the car from the back looking forward to the front of the car hence right hand drive for us in the UK. If post number 11 is the one from 9 June 2015 from RicardoM then as he was a professional mechanic I'd guess he'd used that protocol. If the image had been flipped is a different matter, I notice on some images from phones this seems to be the case as say writing on a t-shirt is mirror-image, such are the mysteries of computers to me. HTH.