nta16

So the bearing was replaced because diagnostics showed problems were at that left wheel but were the diagnostics complete and correct because you still have the warning lights. The point is how thorough were those diagnostics, was there also another issue or issues in addition to what was found or were the diagnostics wrong, or have different or new issue(s) arrived since the new parts were fitted, or it might just be a computer reporting issue. You may not know and people answering on the internet can't know as the car is not in front of them and don't know the history behind this, hence all my questions. I assume, so could well be wrong, that your first language might not be English but you can get text posted translated from, and to English. I don't know what you mean by "vrs turns on my lights while driving and shuts off" unless you mean the warning lights go off when you drive but are there when you turn the ignition on?

Hi, welcome.

Sorry I found the thread but there wasn't a resolution (so far anyway). You might need to find someone good with ODIS to help sort this. If you are using OBDeleven and this Moderator is still on the site he seems to know a fair bit about coding and such like. - https://forum.obdeleven.com/thread/16551/control-module-incorrectly-coded-u101400 HTH.

ETA: where is your location, roughly if you would sooner not say, inside or outside of the UK as being an English language site with mainly UK contributors the models and situations maybe slightly different in the UK to where you are that members posting don't know about and may have some bearing on the answers.

You have not given much information so some questions to help with replies. Where they replaced correctly ana with with correct parts? Where they the correct parts to replace or was the diagnosis process (if any) wrong or incomplete? Where the error codes deleted with correct scan tool or car driven for a reasonable distance since new cars fitted? Why was the bearing replaced, has that part of the car been in a bump? Do you know the current and past state of charge of your car's 12v battery, preferably using a multimeter directly on the battery terminal posts a good few hours after the car has been parked up? Even if the headlights seem bright enough and the engine starts the battery can still be in a state of charge too low for the computer systems to be happy with and they can throw up all sorts of unexpected warning lights, messages, unseen codes and causes all sorts of unexpected issues. This may not be the cause of your lights but a battery in a lower state of charge can also hinder diagnosis and cvause other issues. You don't say what model of 2018 VWŠkoda you have but you could look in the forum relevant for that model and year and see if other owners have had the same or similar issue(s) and see what the outcomes were. I hope all this helps.

Sorry I misunderstood. IIRC(?) there was a long thread on something similar I think but I can't remember the details or outcome/resolution, if I can find it I'll post a link to it.

If you have (up to date) OBDeleven can you not just code it as it gets passed the SFD(?). - https://support.obdeleven.com/en/articles/5685824-how-to-unlock-sfd-protected-control-units

You could try drying out the base and if the radio is ok until it gets (a lot?) water on it and then it fails might give conformation of being in the right area at least. Or if the part isn't expensive perhaps just replace it for the sake of time and hassle. Good luck, let us know how you get on and end result to getting it fixed.

Thanks for reporting back. Personally I would prefer a 2010 car to a 2023 car, when I used to drive two neighbours cars, a 2023 Nissan Qashqai and a 2005 Kia Picanto, I much preferred driving the 2005 car without many of the driver "aids" and any "assists" ( I preferred driving it against my wife's 2015 Fabia too but obviously not a popular sentiment here) I also drive another neighbour's 2016 Corsa automatic which is fine but it only has 8k-miles on it. I think 2017 is about as new as you want to go, certainly with a VW product, but it won't be as well made as a 2010 (then a 2010 won't be as well made as from the previous century). You can't keep old cars going for ever but for longer than most think, and economically when compared to all costs for buying and running a new car, but of course it does depend on how well the old car was looked after in the past and how well it continues to be, that doesn't have to be excessive either. Good luck.

As you've found the tyre comparison site the following two sites may help you (subject to information being correct, there are errors and omissions in all sources of data and information, even from manufacturers). Obviously the tyres and wheels for sale need visual inspection for how good or not they might be, look for the age of the tyres and their general condition as he size change alone will make some difference to how they operate on the car, let alone the tyre age and wear (and any damage seen or unseen). HTH. Will They Fit -https://www.willtheyfit.com Wheel-Size.com - https://www.wheel-size.com/

Right, I g o t y o u r m e s s a g e, thank you. 😄

You had a VW car, unless it was from the last century sorry there's no hope for you. 😄 82 is nothing round my way, plenty in their 90s and the lady round the corner got to 103. How much you might want to drive now and in the future is a different matter. Until 3 years ago for the previous 16 years my (one and only) everyday car was a 1973 MG Midget, unless I have a large Lottery win if I ever get another car for myself it will be from the 60s or 70s (a Golf GTi Mk1 is the only German car I'd entertain but I like soft top cars, particularly for winter fun runs). Getting them to change to annual "services" should be easy the rest you want to talk to them about good luck, if you're lucky you might help and info you want. Good luck generally. ETA: another tip keep the car 12v battery at a reasonable state of charge, if you haven't got one you might want to invest £15 (Aldi/Lidl) to £30 (one example Ring) in an appropriate charger maintainer to save possible hassles and premature change of the expensive battery. Others are available, some unnecessarily expensive, Ring Smartcharger 4 (4-amps is plenty). - https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc904-4a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html

Brian, if you want to call pab567 put the at ( @ ) symbol just before his site name, example @nta16 = @nta16 . You can edit your previous post to change it.

As I read it on their site you won't get a message about SFD as it's automatic entry and I thought they worked with VW but if you and others can't get things to work and you and others have told OBDeleven about this and they can't sort it then it might be that they and VW don't know how to, or VW don't want or can't be bothered. I've no idea if other scan brands or more expensive systems/machines would do better than OBDeleven, I would have thought VCDS might be the go-to for VW but it's not my cup of Darjeeling. IIRC I've seen other initials or descriptions for these lockout things and assumed that SFD was what it is, my memory isn't the best. But like you say it's not the end of the world.

Diermot, it's up to you of course but I would want and annual engine oil and filter change (which isn't even a proper service for the engine let alone the whole car) especially on a car that does low mileage, more so than one that does average or high mileage. If you are keeping the car long term then what happens to it in its early years can potentially be important to its life. Personally I would book it in for an annual service now, it's a good time of year and the car is 16 months old (not 12 months as I would prefer) and I would ask the garage to switch the car to annual ("fixed") "services" so it done this time next year too. With a 3-cylinder VW I would certainly keep to changing the spark plugs on schedule and changing the engine air filter (in fact I would change air filter sooner than VW say). I don't know what car(s) you had before but you now have a 2024 car and a VW at that so a different kettle of fish to say even a 2017 car and to non-German marques or brands.

OBDeleven has SFD unlock listed as a feature on their website so perhaps you just need an update (possibly payable depends on what you originally bought I expect) you want updates for your 21 Kamiq, if you don't already have them, anyway, always go model or VIN specific. See 'Service' features on this page. - https://obdeleven.com/skoda

There are a few threads about the 1.0 engine (with DSG) and its driving 'quirks' in the Fabia Mk3 forum and other forums. Remember when they said the computers were there to serve us. 😆 Of course few programmers or engineers have ever believed that. 🤭 Good luck.

You may also find information about and with OBDeleven in the 'Diagnostics & VCDS' forum on this site. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/

ALWAYS do a back up first, and before starting - have the car and device batteries both in a good state of charge, make sure the program is fully up to date and check connectivity will be good and stable throughout procedures. Some don't like (or trust?) the 'one-click' applications but if someone with the same model and age has tested them and found them to be fully successful after a reasonable period of testing and use and without side effects (over a good number of journeys) then fine. You could perhaps do a thread or guide on what works and if anything doesn't.

Others, particularly those with Favorits or late RWD, might have different ideas, explanations and answers than me. Any electric connections that are not good I would redo, the wires want to be clean, fully and firmly connected and fully protected, same for connectors as appropriate, you don't want to have potential problems even if they are not problems at the moment, poor connects can be very restrictive or intermittent. I would not want to speculate why you didn't find a leak as I don't really remember the engines and carb set up at all and I was there with you when you were looking. Using carb cleaner is perhaps an expensive choice particularly after the area is cleaned. I have no idea if 1.5mm gasket paper is as good choice or not and don't know if you are using it only one or both sides of spacer but if using a sealant that does have to be applied correctly with both surfaces clean and not have excess sealant going inside where it might come off and clog or stick elsewhere internally whereas paper if you cut it right (scissors, hole punches, ball pein hammer) paper should stay where it is put. You have not said you have a vacuum or any other sort of leak yet this time so they might not be any to cause the issue. Have you checked all nuts and fixings on carbs and manifolds are all tight, can you hear any hissing or blowing, perhaps using some sort of ear-trumpet. In your video the engine was being held back or restricted from going above 1500rpm, with just a leak I would have thought revs would have been fluctuating more, but never discount contributing (even contra) factors or issue(s). If you still have the old coil and it works OK you could try swapping that back in. As well as electric/electronic you could also check all mechanical operations move freely and are unrestricted, sometimes need two people for that, one operating from drivers seat and other looking engine bay end. But you might just as well wait now until you remove the head, as you disconnect and remove parts take you time before removing them and have a good look at their fitting and movements if appropriate as you might see issues, then when remove check part and attachment and fittings for being correct, note anything that might not quite look or operate correctly or fully. Same for when you got to put things back together - don't just take thing off and put them back on again the same, check the parts and the fitting and attachments to the part. You are not in a race with anyone else or yourself to get the job completed as quickly as possible your aim is to successfully find and sort your problem(s) and not potentially leave or introduce more problems now or later. Do not dismiss or ignore anything that doesn't fit in with your assumptions or theories of what might be wrong or the causes. Others will know more than me but I do have decades of experience of old car problems and owners with less time and experience fault finding and repair - but of course I am often wrong and/or don't know other than the basics which can rarely be ignored. Good luck.

Sorry I seem to have over exerted my one braincell today, you did say the code. A short to ground might be water ingress perhaps still there or caused corrosion perhaps or wire or connection going wrong, could be at one end of circuit or other or in between. You could test with a multimeter to see if everything is getting or going to where it should. The U11B800 - Interface for external media No communication Intermittent might be just taking a phone, connector wire or something like a USB or card out of a socket without doing the key presses to "safely remove hardware and eject media". If you clear that code and don't plug anything in or remove and the code doesn't appear then that might confirm this. Or it might be associated to the DAB issue.

Let pab567 help you first. Best usually not to just change parts with guesses (that's what some professionals do because they're lazy or just want more money out of you) best would be to get a scan tool to check what might be. I don't know how much it would tell you as I've never looked or researched by you do need the scan tool to be VW appropriate and cover your model and (part) year / VIN and for the program to be up to date before used with the car battery (and if appropriate tool battery) is reasonable state of charge(s) with good connections otherwise you can get spurious readings and results. For Briskoda members with VCDS in your area that can possibly offer readings and reports, or more, for beer token (unless they are professional services) see the following link. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#findComment-3091029 HTH.

Diermot, if you want to you can also add more details to your profile to show in 'Author stats' for those that can or do look at those. See mine for an example - top right corner of my posts, click-on the down arrow ( v ) for what I've put in for model details (I might add the engine code too as I keep forgetting what it is to remind me and inform those that look there). HTH.

No I think the 'Owner's manuals' were written by student German engineers and then sent to somewhere like China to be translated to English. The 'Owner's Manuals' also miss out information that other car manufacturers include and the German just have to add their own specification standards and names on top of the existing systems. They certainly could make things easier if they wanted to but the UK has always been a soft touch for car manufacturers, we let them get away with so much. And "cheaper" marques and brand have more than 3 years warranty, though IIRC VW give 7 years warranty in Australia (they must make them better for there I guess). ETA: Whoops, sorry I didn't read/my brain didn't compute the word Auto in your post many apologies. Even allowing for my stupid mistake and this not being in the 'Owner's Manual' despite how the manual is it is still worth reading and referring to for much about and with the car and can prevent soon and so on .... If you want or need to you can still ignore VW's gear selection by manual shifting the DSG. 'Eco' mode to 'Sport' is a two step jump, seems a strange idea but we can not question the programmers or computers, they don't like it. 😉

Some at least VWŠkoda owners, including me, have found that the VWŠkoda factory couldn't be bothered to enter the serial number and just put ten ones (1111111111). The battery information to some extent was only for VW statistics and in my biased opinion (I don't like VWs) was used to blame the battery manufacturer for VW ****-ups to do with battery/charging computer system/programming. VW being German of course also had to use different terminology being "Simply Clever" (not) they call AGM "fleece". So when 'coding' a new battery the important entries are to change the "serial" number so the system knows the battery is new/different, the type needs to be correct EFB/AGM and the Ah rating needs to be at least near enough correct (not miles out as one professional auto-electrician is said to have done and put 7Ah instead of 70Ah, why VW's computer programming allows this is a different matter, very poor programming in my opinion). The make of the battery is of no importance and can be left or changed at will, I didn't even stick to a three letter code. As an example I put up what was done for me by another Briskoda member using OBDeleven. -