nta16

82Ah, you use a lot of electricity. 😄 Is that correct to the battery fitted (not 72Ah as in a previous post?). For the sake of reassurance if I was a commercial concern I would leave the battery three letter code as VWŠkoda have it (JBC?) or use one of their other three letter/character codes (you had Varta? (VAO) and I would have have 1111111112 if it was 1111111111 from factory. Perhaps the computer system objected to something there but with car use it settled itself, as long as the battery is an AGM and 82Ah(?) things should be fine but if you wanted to enter the (correct) three letter/character code for the Varta battery fitted and certainly correct the 82Ah if your battery is 72Ah, leave the battery serial as it is.

@Exkiwi things are different in England at least, if not UK, to Australia, New Zealand and Tasmania (as well as Europe and USA). Generally if you wanted to do a load test it would be a DIY one as very few old school battery load testers are about and I doubt they're used commercially, it's modern computer battery tester electronics now. (Of course now someone will say about some old village garage in the middle of nowhere that has an "uld skool" one that can be used if Fred is working there that day. 😄) A chap from Tasmania used to say to go to a "shop" to get this and that done, and borrow tools! and I would explain that I live in Northamptonshire a county of motorsports engineering yet I'd have to ask an older mate who he knows that might know somewhere doing the stuff the chap from Tas would just nip to a "shop" for. Time and patience will also tell how much the battery holds and performs but many car owners have very little stock or out of stock of one, the other, or both - and no access to a load tester or knowledge or inclination to do a DIY test. This is a general (VWŠkoda) car owner's site and whilst there are some specialists members (not me) the majority aren't so they only want to go so far before going to a Dealership. garage, mechanic or auto-electrician (even though often they themselves might do a better job than the professionals they pay, in England at least, from my decades of personal experience).

You could look for the Škoda emblem/logo on the screen glass, an aftermarket screen will not have this but other marking. A Škoda replacement screen even though not factory original would also have the Škoda emblem/logo of course, but you'd hope if someone had gone to the trouble of fitting a VWŠkoda part that it'd be the correct one (you can only hope with the English motor trade).

Hi, welcome. pab567 given the information may be able to help you a lot, also being friendly, unlike your local Dealership.

Hi welcome. Sorry I don't know the vehicle but others will know more details and places to perhaps get parts, as they're VW there might be a VW part number on the original part (if it is original or VW part) and you can look up based on that VW part number, the part and part number might have been superseded too. You can also look in the threads on this forum and perhaps Classic Skoda Guides and Classic SKODA Projects forums for information (links below). Perhaps an old long time VW or VWŠkoda garage (ex)Dealership might be able to help with parts and information (but VW got rid of the old friendly helpful (real) Škoda backstreet garages to be more corporate decades back). Unless your local mechanic is an old car, VW or Škoda fan I doubt if he (always a he) will have any intertest and put in much effort (like many/most of them for any vehicle in the English motor trade). If you have not already tried them here are a few of the more obviously suppliers you could try. - Škoda parts - https://www.skoda-parts.com/online-store.html 7zap -https://7zap.com/en/catalog/cars/Skoda/ LLL Parts UK - https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB Classic Skoda Guides forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/178-classic-skoda-guides/ Classic SKODA Projects forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/206-classic-skoda-projects/ HTH.

Now I know you know I will try to remember you know. I too would sooner pay more money and have something last, my cheap Bradex is 40+ years old and Carcoon (get yer head round that one) charger is 30+ years old but as my mate's had two same model CTek 5s and they differ from each other and are £70-£80 each I'm not impressed with them but 14 years is a good start at longer term ownership. As with much in life each to their own. I only recommend the Ring as I've had the (former model (800)) work well for a number of years so can speak from personal experience, but there again my neighbour's £15 Lidl/Audi has worked finer for a good few years of regular use too.

Three dots at top right of your post, click on that for Edit option on the drop down menu from three dots. In that case I'm surprised and wrong again yet again today as I've not noticed anyone say EFB+ other than as a replacement and 1S0 915 105 B number (that only VW seems to have really used) brings up various batteries. I think you could see if the battery 'coding' is correct for charging but if the battery is factory original it should be unless someone has messed it up - or cut your losses and save time and hassle if not money and have a new battery fitted, at least as good as VW use and of course make sure it is 'coded' correctly for peace of mind. I personally always fully charge, to 100%, a new battery before I fit it to the car, if the battery arrives in a good state of charge this shouldn't take too long, a battery might turn up at 12.4v and you could fit it to the car and forget it but I prefer to fit the battery at 100% (possibly 12.7v / 12.8v / 12.9v and know the battery condition when I fitted it was full. The car's computers will reduce it to the 70% / 75% / 80% but it is good to have the battery charged to 100% occasional. Just as one example only, RAC (who I'd never buy a battery from) for "SEL 1.0 115(hp) Triptronic Automatic" Varta 027 N60 Start-Stop EFB Car Battery 12V 60Ah (640 CCA EN) - £157.29 - Home Delivery. You would have to confirm this is correct and will fit - Varta datasheet. - https://cdn.tayna.com/datasheets/Varta%20N60%20Blue%20Dynamic%20EFB%20560%20500%20064%20Data%20Sheet.pdf Tayna "N60 D53 Varta Blue Dynamic EFB Start-Stop Car Battery 12V 60Ah (560500064) (027 EFB)" for delivery but not fitting or 'coding' £118.12 (£100.13 + £7.99 P&P). If you want to you could add 1.0 petrol, SE L (and gearbox type and number of gears) to your profile to show for those that use the drop down 'Author's stats' (down arrow next to three dots) HTH.

Just for (your) info, so do the Ring and I guess some other makes and models (but I find the clips easy and convenient unless the battery is is very difficult to get at, even then most will offer two lugs). Just a quick post as I've got to go out now. 😁

I can't remember the details of your 2019 Kamiq (engine size, fuel, type, trim level) and I can't remember if we've covered battery 'coding' before so just things I notice from your photos and thoughts. Health report has "Battery in good status", state of charge 75%, state of health 75%, I note your comment but I'm thinking what ther Dealership might say. The battery label is a different matter, I'm not sure that battery is a factory fit original (but I could be wrong, often am many times a day) as it's an EFB+ (EFB plus) I'm not sure VW use(d) those, also it's 49Ah which seems low to me. I wonder if your car has been 'coded' to an EFB+ and how much difference it would make if it was 'coded' to just EFB. Did your garage do a scan (health) report or look at the battery 'coding' to see what details have been entered or present for the battery, and keep or give you a copy? Just ass an example below is from when a Briskoda member used his OBDeleven scan tool to 'code' the new (AGM) battery I fitted to my wife's 2015 Fabia. The battery type is important (VW call AGM "Fleece" not AGM, of course they do). Also important is to change the "serial number" so the computers know it's a new changed battery. As you will note at the factory they only put in ten ones (1111111111) that's how important they considered that information. Getting the Ah figure correct is also a good idea. The battery make doesn't really matter , notice I didn't even bother to keep to the VW three letter code. If you give Breezy-Pete your VIN he could possibly look up your car's original details as he has kindly done for others and perhaps see what battery was fitted at factory.

For resting voltage you want to take the reading as many hours after parking up the car as you can and allow for perhaps a 0.2v or 0.3v drop with the car's computers (obviously more if you have other stuff running live too). As someone pointed out in another thread this doesn't fully tell you battery condition, a load test would be needed for that, but if done reasonably with a known good battery it'll give a good idea from accumulated experience of previous readings and conditions. If you own an Audi and/or Beemer, particularly if one or both are black (and not just from diesel smoke) then I think it's the law that you have to buy a CTek charger maintainer and they're fine just that I personally think they're overrated and over-valued as well of course as over-priced for normal average car owner use. I know the £15-£20 ones (Aldi(?) and) Lidl (I always confuse the two stores) are good as so many I've seen have used them over the years and the one my neighbour bought has been fine for a good number of years regular use. I use a Ring - other makes, models, brands and labelled, and stores are available, possibly for a few pennies less. - Ring Smartcharge 4 (4-amps, I very much favour going as low as reasonable with charging amps, takes longer but more of a Hieneken effect. -https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc904-4a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html Do read the car's 'Owner's Manual' and charger maintainer's instructions for what and how to use a battery charger properly on that car. On the Beemers I've seen you'll be lucky if you could get near the battery (or batteries) but they usually have two lugs you connect to, be sure the clips grab the lugs well for a good connection as some hold better than others . Bosch batteries I was told, when I fitted one to my wife's 2015 Fabia, are Varta. If you kept a battery going for 13 years you may well already know but if you've not already seen/suffered (I'm reasonably sure I've seen your name in other thread(s)) my usual verbiage on charging/chargers/batteries and you want or need any I can cut 'n' paste any here for you, just ask. HTH.

I didn't think it was you but wasn't sure. People who know about tuning or Weber carbs would probably know or have a good idea about what might be used on stock vehicles as you have to have a starting point to work from so if you know any motorsports or racers or tuning people you could ask them particularly for stock and not competing against them. Or you could try asking some place like Eurocarb as you may well need to buy a box of the various sizes as it can be about experimentation within a couple of sizes as there are so many possible variations even with "stock" (as I would imagine, but don't know, the stock cars never had Webers)and things like fuel have changed over past decades and possibly you might have also changed the ignition system. But I am no expert and only have a little experience of SUs (whereas a friend is used to Weber and won't accept he is running his SUs unnecessarily too rich and wonders why they are not more economical than the Weber as most people (correctly) claim on that particular model and age of car). It might be personal choice but Webers aren't always the correct or best answer unless sometimes a fast road or competition car is wanted and daily use and fuel consumption is of little consideration - though the weber(s) do sound nice with foot down. Eurocarb - https://www.dellorto.co.uk/ Eurocarb Weber Carbs & Parts - https://www.dellorto.co.uk/product-category/weber-carburettors-parts/ If you haven't already looked, I don't know if you might find more info (and members) at the Classic SKODA Projects forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/206-classic-skoda-projects/ That's me out of ideas.

Sorry I haven't a clue about Webers, never been a fan but I have only had one FoMoCo copy, so just general comments. If you have not already done so you could have a look at the relevant forums' threads or do a search, often best to do that via Google that brings you back to Briskoda. I am sure I posted something about a 110R carb but it wasn't a Weber (perhaps I replied to you, I found a 110R carb supplier, IIRC). Back in the day when say Ford went over to auto-choke in UK they were troublesome and some/many(?) were converted to manual choke. Manual choke doesn't take a lot of learning and becomes instinctive when you get used to it on a particular car, set up well often you need not be on manual choke too long and very reliable. If you have the carb big enough you might not need and choke, on advice I had to remove the choke flap on one car I had and I used that car as an everyday car over winter and summer (as I did with all my (20-50 years) old cars. One very hot day my wife flooded it by touching the accelerator pedal before or during firing the engine up, she should have remembered to just remove the air filter and let the fuel dissipate from the carb then it would have been fine but instead it was relayed home on the back of a low-loaded much to my neighbour's amusement as he had been the one to advise me to remove the choke flap. 😄

@bazz2004 you (partially) got what you wanted with breezy-pete's reply, you also put what you thought about charger to battery. You don't need to read any posts or parts of posts you don't want to, but you won't be the only viewer of this thread and posts now or in the future, you can ignore anyone or any posts or parts of posts you like but this isn't a private site, forum or thread so you have to sort through what you do and don't like. I would have replied sooner - but I was out. 😁 IF I remember in future I will ignore you - but still might post in a thread you're in or started. As I guess you might only really see the start and end of this post I'll point out, or remind you if you already know, that if you want you can put me on your 'Ignore' list.

@bazz2004 if you are allowed to DIY recharge your battery then up to you if you want to you could post up a photo (landscape please) of your engine bay battery area and arrow can be added for earth point or see below for my wife's 2015 Fabia which will be the same except earth point variation of possibly position and shape. It also gives more information on charging. Sorry it's from the VWŠkoda 'Owner's Manual' but that keeps things more official and easier for me to cut 'n' paste. You will be "charging with low voltages" if using a 5-amp CTek. HTH.

Not really, see Derek's post(s).

Derek that's more or less what I put and VW omit other details like oil like capacities fuse box(es) diagrams are sometimes wrong and other stuff I forget. Yes I know other manufacturers Owner's Manual aren't perfect too but some at least are more comprehensive in the information they give. As you well know I promote reading and referring to the VWŠkoda Owner's Manuals as they are still a very good source of information and if read and referred to can save time, hassle, money and unnecessary visits to Dealerships, garages, mechanics and auto-electricians. And if an owners reads and refers to the Owner's Manual they can know more about the car than many long term owners of the car (particularly those that think they know but are mistaken). Does it? I can't get to check a 2023 Fabia as the VWŠskoda Owner's Manual has a 'sorry not working now come back later' message for 2023 Fabia. If this is so the you and I perhaps should be advising baz2004 to be using a battery charger maintainer on his 2023 Fabia, though you probably put more faith in VW dictates than I. You are good at research, if you want to I'd be interested to see what VWŠkoda say and dictate on battery charging with regard to the latest Fabia and then take that into consideration about if I should advise later Fabia owners to DIY recharge. It doesn't save me time, money or hassle or prevent me from wasting materials whether anyone recharges their car battery or not and generally it's of very little importance to life. As with the Ctek chargers my personal experience of them is that they are over valued and over priced but as I've spent and wasted many, many ten of thousands of pounds on old over valued and over priced cars (and other items) I can understand why others do so too I and don't try to stop them from doing what they want, how could I anyway.

The reading will be a good enough reading point unless a connection(s) or cable(s) between the battery terminal post and negative point you use are dirty/contaminated or not fully secure. If you are trying to establish loss or drop then this missing bit might be important, what are you measuring for?

A "smart" (they're not) charger maintainer will sort this for itself. Unfortunately VW omit a lot of information from their 'Owner's Manuals' that other car manufacturers give freely, type of battery fitted by battery is just one of these things. You do want to read the 'Owner's Manual' and instructions for the charger maintainer for charging the car battery and the 'Owner's Manual' will also give information about the battery and charging. Yes unfortunately some batteries (particularly on German marques) are so smothered it bits you can't see them and it's not so practical to bother to remove these bits or the battery unless really necessary. Sensible very occasional preventative charging with an appropriate charger maintainer when required should have an EFB battery (in normal/average) use giving a long reliable use life, slow long recharges are generally better than quicker shorter recharges with a about 4-amp (£15-£30) charger maintainer being fine.

This to me suggests the garage done something wrong when 'coding' (something went wrong). Data input error perhaps or procedure not done correctly (which you might be suggesting). When dealing with the car's computer systems the tool being used needs to be appropriate to the make, model and (part) year (or VIN) and have it's program up to date before being used on the car and the car battery and the computer being used to 'code' both need their batteries at a reasonable state of charge, connections (wired or through air) need to be good and reliable, all otherwise spurious reports, readings or 'coding' can happen. The car charging will not always be at 14.8v, new battery at good state of charge with very few electrics being used (other than those the car wants). Checking after work has been done on the car is a good idea, and mistakes can happen with anyone, but checks needn't go on for too long. See my previous post for what I and VW think about the description of "serial number" that part is redundant now AFAIK (and wasn't even used at the factory in 2015 based on my wife's car and others I've seen reported on Briskoda). If you are interested I can put up a VW pdf (available elsewhere on the internet) about this and stuff about VW batteries from when VW brought the stop/start shenanigans in.

Once the battery has been taken too low and or too often then it won't fully recover or has been taken to end of life, prevention is better than cure but of course the battery does have a finite life. 7 years ain't bad many (most?) wouldn't get that far and the newer the car the less likely. The battery is very low indeed when it won't start the engine. For your new battery if you're not using the car for a number of week you could either disconnect the battery or perhaps have it on a constant charger maintainer. You may already being doing this but for other viewers as well - If recharging using an appropriate battery charger maintainer then follow the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and in the charger maintainer's instructions. Best is to recharge using a lower amperage charger (2, 3 or 4 amps) which will obviously take longer to charge and to fully charge the battery (to 100%), if this can't be achieve in one go then do it in two or three. Batteries like 20c weather temperature and IIRC self discharge at twice the rate at 30c and twice as much more at 40c so it's not just in winter you need to be aware of battery state of charge plus of course in warmer weather the air-con might be used more that puts additional drain on the battery power storage. Despite the car and it's charging system being older and of course getting older and more worn as time goes on if you look after your new battery, and that doesn't mean babying or any regular (very easy) work, then I expect you may well get more than 7 years out of it and good reliable service from it.

If the old batter was 'coded' in as AGM (or "fleece" as VW call it) then that remains the same the battery, this setting is important. Make or code is of no real importance that was just for VW's statistics and so they could make out a battery manufacturer was at fault for when VW messed things up (might is right) I think Varta was VOA in VW three letter/character code. The "serial number" is important for system to know the battery is new and has been changed, as you see below often VW couldn't be bothered with it themselves at the factory and just put ten ones (1111111111) so you can if you want just change the last number to increase by one, so in example below to 1111111112. You might as well change the 68Ah to 70Ah but do ensure you don't do what a professional auto-electrician was said to have done and put in 7Ah instead of 70Ah, why the VW programming allowed this is another matter. I don't know the VCDS but here's some info from vrooom. VCDS How to adapt a new battery.pdf Below is from when a Briskoda member used an OBDeleven for the battery change on my wife's car, as you see I didn't even bother with the three letter code (I'm told Bosch (labelled) batteries are rom Varta). If you want to know more about batteries and DIN and other standards of specification rating I can give you some info but generally don't be fooled by bigger numbers because it's a case of how long the battery can sustain any performance numbers in real world use. The CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) is about starting the cars in the cold which might be useful to you in artic bits of your country but generally modern cars can start the engines even when the battery state of charge is too low for the computer systems and programs and they throw up all sorts of unexpected warning light and messages and unseen error codes and unexpected issues. Often just fully recharging the battery properly can revive the battery rather than premature replacement. Up to you what you do but if you change the battery, I personally always checked the battery is fully (100%) charged before I fit it to the car, not all batteries will arrive fully charged, an AGM battery may be at 12.4v on arrival but would be about 12.8/9v fully charged. Yes the VW computer program will soon do its own thing but I like to know that I start at 100% charged and will do a very occasional preventative recharge to 100% as it's good for the battery and its useful life, VW system goes to depending on who you believe 70%-80%. HTH.

From Dealership(s) my wife has paid - 'Visual Health Check' is a computer paper colour print out has printed name of person "Inspected by" and "Quality Control by" (same name on the sheet I'm looking at now for both, 'Maintenance list' is paper printed grey scale ticksheet is 'biro' ticks to boxes and "Date / signature (person responsible" and "Date / signature (final check)" have large date at each and same initials on both.

Yes true, you make a good point but when I'm dealing with a stranger until I have more information I start with the simple, easier, quicker stuff (ETA: not that I know anymore than that anyway) that one person can do by themselves with simple inexpensive equipment - as you know some of us, me in your case, need things typed out slowly (in capitals). 😉 As you've lighten up I'm sure we can rub along, different people work at different levels, and are different people, this can be hard to gather and judge from just what's typed and as we've experienced misunderstandings can happen. I don't know if you can see my signature panel but in it I put that I am not a mechanic or expert in anything and often put that everyone should check and cross reference any information from any source, including manufacturers, but especially from some bloke on the internet (more so if that bloke is me) so I'm happy to bow out or take a back seat on any thread when others bring better information and advice. Some car owners think 12v battery means 12v at the battery and if the engine starts the battery is "good" or at least not low in state of charge. Others have insisted that the alternator will always cope with keeping the battery sufficiently charged with just driving the car, even frequent short distance use and they were experienced and knowledgeable about car electrics and charging systems (I only have experience). Of course the state of charge of vreka's battery may not be an issue or really related to the problem(s). If you have any ideas about vreka's problem(s) please post them, you don't seem shy (and perhaps lost any NZ reserve you might have had now on being on the big island) and your approach might be (much) better than mine, fresh perspectives are always welcome.

So the bearing was replaced because diagnostics showed problems were at that left wheel but were the diagnostics complete and correct because you still have the warning lights. The point is how thorough were those diagnostics, was there also another issue or issues in addition to what was found or were the diagnostics wrong, or have different or new issue(s) arrived since the new parts were fitted, or it might just be a computer reporting issue. You may not know and people answering on the internet can't know as the car is not in front of them and don't know the history behind this, hence all my questions. I assume, so could well be wrong, that your first language might not be English but you can get text posted translated from, and to English. I don't know what you mean by "vrs turns on my lights while driving and shuts off" unless you mean the warning lights go off when you drive but are there when you turn the ignition on?