nta16

Hi, welcome. I'm not scalding you just offering advice and hopefully help. Although VWŠkoda's version aren't he best with all cars if you read and refer to the car's 'Owner's Manual' you cam learn a lot about the car, and know more than many long term owners, and save time, hassle and money from unnecessary visits to Dealerships, garages, mechanics and auto-electricians. There's a version of the 'Owner's Manual' in the menu of the infotainment I believe, how good that version is I've no idea, there's also a VWŠkoda website version (link to follow). You would press the 'Mode' button and then select 'Normal', I would guess that the car defaults to 'Eco' each time the ignition is turned on, I don't know if you can alter this in any program. Another word of advice is that the computer recommended gear selection isn't always correct for driving condition or best fuel economy, the computers don't (yet anyway) allow for gradients and full road and traffic conditions the more experienced in driving the more you may notice this. There's lots of info on your model (and other models) on this site and as now you can always ask, there are no silly questions (but there can be different and strange answers). Good luck, HTH. VWŠkoda site for 'Owner's Manuals' - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models

Until a more knowledgeable person comes along with a better answer, here's mine. IIRC, on older MK3s at least, it's possibly DAB antenna and/or antenna amplifier, I think past threads have covered the location of the amplifier, but you'll have to check all this as my memory ain't the best. HTH. Good luck, let us know how you get on. ETA: of course it could be software issue or the radio (infotainment unit), you could also check for Recalls (well those they admit to) or updates. Škoda Recall Campaigns - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns

Sorry I must have missed your question. What the Dealership will have to give as a print out is what is called a "Complete record" (you don't want "individual record") if the information is correct (it isn't always, there can possibly be entry errors I can assure you of that) should perhaps help with dates and mileage and some "service" and "maintenance" record, subject to as Aldfort has already put. As with other history checks what's not reported is not recorded and errors and omissions may be in them. I put all information in reverse chronological order to make it easier to see what has been done more recently and to make it easier to check and cross reference information from different sources and records and you can more easily check if any work has been done in a timely manner or late or missed. "Services" for modern cars are little more than an engine oil and filter change (and a "free" look for more chargeable work) which isn't even a full service of the engine let alone the car. HTH.

I lost my post so this will be a shorter version of it. You have made your mind up on HGF so when the head is off you can closely look at the cylinder block and head and all that is inside both. When you have all back together again of course you will need to check and adjust as required the valve clearances again and check and adjust as required all that follows in the set up chain of checks. Despite what I put later in the video the "rev counter" needle is steady and moves well. I am not criticising you just trying to help you now and for the near and further future, the things I highlight in the following photos may not at present be causing any issue(s), or they might, but you would be best to tidy up the wiring and cable routing and secure as required, independent of other cables, wires and hoses, so as not to possibly cause issue(s0 in the future and to tidy up or redo crimp connections for better more secure fit and location and prevent moisture or other ingress, shrink-wrap over secure good crimped joins or use connectors with shrink-wrap covers already on them. The wire to connectors has to be a good solid clean connection that is secure and protected. You don't want wires and cables touching or other wires or cables or against other items particularly metal items like hose clips. Hose clips are best as close to fit size as possible (allowing for getting them on). Coolant level in photo is between 'Max' and 'Min' lines so OK as long as that level hasn't drop too much and too fast from where it previously might have been (subject to levels taken at about same temperatures). That's all I can remember, so on to photos. If these are for the "rev counter" then at least it seems to be working good, but more thread protruding passed the nut would be good (without damaging anything of course) Under the 'Media Options' symbol added to the photo, very top right - see below., Oversized cheap hose clip would be good to replace at some point perhaps. HT lead pushing against wire may not be good for either, if you pull a little of he HT cable back behind the HT leads separator comb this might be sufficient. A poor looking connection on this, that could get contaminated and the wire(s) could get fatigue and break causing poor connection and readings, that needs sorting as soon as possible and reconnecting or new connection with wire insulation inside connector sleeve and wire(s) firmly connected to connector. On coil, again yellow wire to crimp connector is poor and unprotected. At hose clip the "king lead" HT cable from coil to distributor the HT lead is touching the hose clip screw, so too is the white wire, both are touching each other and one is wrapped round the other, both want to be clear of each other and the hose clip, the white wire obviously want to avoid being near the drive belt if it needs securing. Poor electrical connection can cause all sorts of issues and be intermittent and difficult to find so it is best to prevent as many possibilities of this as you can and it is good practice to have wires, cables and hoses as well routed and not crossing or touching as possible. Also to keep all electric and other connections as clean, secured and protected as possible. HTH. As always let us know how you get on.

My policy would be not to buy from them. If they want to sell the car to you they should sort out a longer test drive and facilitate your mechanic - perhaps they've had cars stolen, staff issues or something and want more security - or they have these policies because they want easy quick sales of stock they're not 100% confident about - or company, management, staff are just usual English motor trade shysters. There are two parties to a sales if either one isn't reasonably satisfied then it might be best for one, other or both to walk away from making a regrettable contract.

Have you put petrol in recently, I have no idea of the quality of petrol supplied from petrol station in Croatia just thinking of possibilities. Any work or parts or add-ons devices to the car recently. Have you checked the HT leads. Have you checked inlet and exhaust manifolds, exhaust system too. I forget what distributor and rotor arm and distributor cap you have, if any are Chinese made suspect them. Jerky between 1-2,000 rpm could be a lot of causes. For head gasket failure you could check for other signs oil in coolant, coolant in oil, coolant loss or bubbling in expansion tank, stuff coming out of the exhaust end and it's colour, engine running warmer. temperature gauge needle showing higher than usual especially when the engine has been put under more load and stress, misfires you might have but for other signs check for what I have forgot with internet lists of 'head gasket failure' - HGF. For filter do you mean a filter to go in that white fuel bowl - or you could fit a disposable clear see-through in-line filter in the fuel hose before or after the pump. A video/audio recording of the strange noise might help as would possibly clear good (landscape) photos of your engine bay.

We see very few EFB + battery here I have no idea if VW even have a coding for such, OBDeleven might but that is not the same thing. I find it best to charge to the battery to full 100% charge (if the battery will take it) not the VW 70, 75, 80%, using an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions of the charger and those in the 'Owner's Manual' for the car, using a charger of lower amps, currently I use a 4-amp charger on my wife's 2015 Fabia. It can take many hours to top that up. You charging every 6 months to however you do it might be enough and ideal only taking readings would really tell but it is much more than most do and you get your batteries to 5 years still with more useable service life in them and as you are passing them on they are not wasted. At the moment in my shed I have a neighbour's car battery and I am using my 30+ year old semi-"smart" 1.9 amp charger maintainer, I expect it to take a minimum of 24+ hours to fully recharge to 100%, if it can, judged on first connecting it up to my 40+ year old (not "smart") battery charger with a useful swing needle display on it to see how much the needle moves in 5-10 minutes based on decades of experience doing the same for other neighbours. Photo from internet. Batteries like about 20C weather temperatures, IIRC(?) at 30C they self-discharge at double the rate and double again at 40C. AGM batteries are supposed to have more insulation around them if fitted in the engine bay (the one I fitted to my wife's car doesn't even have the full insulation for the factory battery as the car came with the lid part missing, I have just risked it as it is, I have a low hassle tolerance with German marque cars as generally I don't like them. As a general rule the bigger the physical size battery the power it holds and often cars have smaller batteries than the space available can allow for, but not always. Do not get too attached to mere numbers as it is also about performance of those number and longevity of that performance also there are many standards for the CCA (cold cranking amps) specification, see below for pdf on 4 of them. Bear in mind I am NOT an expert in car batteries, or anything else. I have the VW Self-Study pdf on VW stop/start and batteries if you want them or they are available on the internet along with lots of information about batteries, though some battery manufacturers seem to be shy with information thy put on their websites and some information that was previous there is no longer there. HTH. CCAspecs.pdf CarBatteryInformation.pdf

Tested tonight - orange/amber lock button light remains on. Seems odd if you hear the locks shut, only way to test if the locks remain shut is to have someone outside try to open a door. IIRC(?) you might be able to program locking when moving above a certain speed in the car menu on the infotainment screen but I don't see how that would effect the light for this. Let us know how you get on.

No idea yet. He has his original LPs from the 1960s onwards and CDs and DVDs and might have his new amp arrived which would be interesting. I might take a few CDs for some tracks too. He's older and a little deaf (no surprise) and after getting tinnitus from the days I had my set up, in our small living room) I don't listen to music as loud as I used to and actually previously had to ask for a little less "volume" and on another night to turn it up a bit, some stuff needs a bit of gain or volume for the type of music or track. Some 60s vinyl is so well recorded that it gives great sounding music showing up later recordings regardless of format. 🙂

If I get a new battery I always check if it is fully charged (to 100%) and if not fully charge it to 100% with an appropriate battery charger (at low amps 4-amps for modern medium/larger before fitting to the car. An AGM can arrive with 12.4v charge (full might be 12.8v or 12.9v) and be ok to be fitted to a modern stop/start car but I still fully charge it to 100% just so I know exactly how the battery is when I fit it as a new battery. Very rare to have a duff battery (unless perhaps you're a car manufacturer like say VW or Nissan then you blame the battery manufacturers to cover yer arse, perhaps, maybe, allegedly, surely not VW, no). If you buy a cheap battery and/or from a cheap or poor quality supplier then it may be out of date old and/or stored and kept incorrectly. @Mattylomas1 for your previous 12 month old battery to drop to 3.5v sitting in the car for 72 hours seems very strange - if required are you sure the previous battery was 'coded in' correctly, on here a chap had a professional auto-electrician key in 7ah instead of 70Ah and it done for his battery after x-months (I forget x). I've seen 2.5V on a neighbour's Beemer that had been sitting for months and less than 1v on a Jag XJ that had been driven that day (coldest of the year) and had the heated seats on and other stuff showing the car off (at 5am!) to Jag owner's boss despite knowing the battery was low for a number of weeks (some people don't help themselves). I had to check my multimeter as I thought the cold was affecting its electronics. A 2025 VW I'd only hope to see 8-10 years out of the battery but a 2012 I'd expect longer but different people use different amounts of electricity and different use of the car, plus a 13 year old car isn't new of course but used and worn to varying degree.

You are free to do as you please but that is probably very wasteful, car batteries must remain one of if not the most oversold car parts, replaced prematurely out of choice in your case or through over-use, abuse and neglect and lack of knowledge, that more drivers had more of with previous generations of cars and people.

I'll test this out on my wife's car when I drive it tonight and see what the light does (I don't even like central locking or remotes, keyblades are good enough for me). If they disconnected the battery this wouldn't be affected, some of the mileage and mpg figures would have been reset and the time of date clock would need manual resetting too but they might have reset the time of day clock, on my wife's car IIRC the clock is a second (or minute, I forget) out compared to the radio. If you've not got a different answer I'll let you late tonight or tomorrow, I'm going to listen to vinyl and CDs on a friend's hi-fi system in his soundproofed room so it sometimes goes past the midnight hour.

Yeap, all true, and I've seen those PDFs before from you thank you, just general interest. You can only expect the chap to get samples from fuel stations he goes to, unless as he said people send him samples, all non-laboratory conditions, just general info for those that 5 and 10 mean exactly spot on 5 or 10 always. Note I put "up to" (and locations and as at dates) on the, er, notes.

Sorry I don't follow, I've never noticed the central locking button light under the radio illumination as we never use it. What is it you are trying to do and want? Do you want the doors locked when you are driving the car, when the engine (and ignition are off) and you are sitting in the car when it's stationary, when you have locked the car and leaving it parked? I can have a look tonight as it's a fairly rare occasion of me driving the car. Have you looked in the 'Owner's Manual' for the car?

@Ootohere you might find the following vid interesting, I've yet to see what he has on V-power and my previous favourite of Esso (0%) 99. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdHZsgiuXVQ

What's printed on a Dealership invoice may be some but not all correct in actual detail, it might be a set text or how the person on the keyboard or computer remembers or interprets the "worksheets" and/or could be out of date to their current practice - perhaps economical with accuracy and even perhaps truth. As with many car manufacturers VW seems to have the car owners do some of their research and development by real world use of their products where they might find their compromises in designs and build and suppliers mistakes (never VW engineers mistakes or omissions). VW have said wrong oil in their DSG boxes before and change their VW oil specs and coolant specs - no doubt from progressive developments of course (some from their real world use product users).

If you've not already done so having a look or asking on the the relevant Superb forum might find you someone with the manual or better link to one. Otherwise I don't know if there might be a physical or pdf version of a Haynes (need purchasing). Good luck.

OBD is On Board Diagnostics OBD-I (capital i) is OBD (1 / one) OBD-II (two capital i) is OBD (2 / two) OBDeleven (my mistake to make the 'e' a capital) is a brand of diagnostic tool / application - https://obdeleven.com/ Then the various protocols and systems get a lot more confusing. - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics HTH.

You can use a multimeter.

Ootohere is the person with table for which DSG needs changing and when. A couple of amusing things in your post from Škoda UK or Dealership, the "filled for life", what life, I think they give 8 years, and in the UK a warranty isn't that long - and they allow the gearbox to be serviced if used in a dusty environment, that will go against the beliefs of many. I can't remember if it's the DSQ200 where VW come out with some *******s sorry explanation that the oil type was wrong (it's the oil that's wrong not VW's specification for that wrong oil). Your car is out of any warranty by now I'd have thought so if you want to get the oil changed other than finding someone trustworthy to do the work correctly and properly there's nothing to stop you. Depending on your use of the car/gearbox (37k ÷ 6 = lowish annual mileage perhaps suggest short journeys and proportionately higher number of gear changes) it might be a bit early, or it might not, again Ootohere and others have experience and knowledge on DSGs (personally I've always disliked the idea from the early Aldi days onwards). I've done oil changes on "filled for life", admittedly these cars were old but the changes were always worth while looking at the oil that came out and by how the car felt (you can feel; such things on old cars as the driver is less remote from the car than on modern cars) and drove. Only this weekend I helped change oils on a mate's 29 year old car (manual) gearbox and (rear, limited slip) diff. My mate said the diff oil was 150k-mile change, I can't remember the mileage on his car, about 50-60k-miles, if that, and he thought the diff oil had been changed before but by the state of what came out it really needed doing whether the diff oil had been changed or not. Gearbox oil no so bad but gear changes were stiff hence a needed for oil change. After test drive my mate reported that the changes were good and things sounded quieter. I used better oils that popular recommendation for the (Ford) gearbox and diff, only a few pounds more and their protection will be longer lasting so actually less expensive to use.

@Leanyfreakkid have a look at the map from the link at the bottom of this thread's opening post, the post also gives details and how to tell when the member lasted visited the site to give an idea of contact. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#findComment-3091029

If you don't get answers from here I'd try the Superb forum for 2024 model. I've no idea, I assumed it would be working off some sort of TwatNav system by now rather than the hit 'n' miss camera system, not that the also hit 'n' miss TwatNav system should be relied on rather than the driver keeping their biologically systems fully engaged including their electronic system of their brain. On England's 3rd-world roads many road signs have disappeared partially or fully by the overgrowth, a human can see and recognise them but not the camera systems.

Don't put all your eggs in the OBDEleven basket, all information from all sources needs checks and cross referencing, included car and other manufacturer's, strangers on the internet, and scan tools. You can check items with your senses and other diagnostic tools like a multimeter. Never forget or overlook the basics, a bent or furred up pin on a plug, connectors, wires, can cause issues with transfer of power or communication. You could look at for water ingress for any reason too perhaps near these items. You may need a wiring diagram and information on location of modules, I believe you can pay €7 (?) and get an hour to download as much information as you can find, I have never done it so don't know the details and other similar services are available but might be subscription. Good luck, let us know how you get in to help other later.

Probably filler neck and openings can have a wide variations and still be within 21st-century German engineering tolerances. 😉 It's was done and it was sorted, another life lesson and experience, probably be remembered more than many more important ones. At least it was better quality diesel. 😄

ETA: sorry I've just found the relay issue related to cold starting issue (vw 6c0941824d) so may not relate to your mum's car. Also if you mean the dash display was blinking on/off then that is a different issue anyway. Do any of these error codes effect your mum's car driving?