nta16

Obviously diagnostics isn't jumping to conclusions but as you've obviously read up on such stuff that dodge poor quality fuse holder relay (too cheap quality IIRC) might be a suspect (more proof (VAG) German engineering quality isn't necessarily high (German marques quality fell before and just after the turn of the century. The battery voltage doesn't have to be that low for all sorts of unexpected warning lights, messages, issuers and error codes. One computer system issue can bounce around the others and cause them to join in, a good reason to clear all error codes when possible (and not let your battery state of charge get too low for the like of the computers, preventative charging is useful in a situation like your mum's before the battery is used, abused and neglected too much to often). Good to recharge the battery to 100% (rather than the VW stop/start battery management of ?70/75/80%?) so I'm not surprised the charging numbers remained low, more surprised you can rev to 4,000 rpm with the car stationary, I don't think there's probably any alternator issue from what is in your posts - but main things like faulty ignition switch could also perhaps create and error code list. There is a thread on here with (IIRC?) posts from a chap that done his own repair to the relay, if you find that you could see if the relay symptoms and diagnosis fully relate to the problem with your mum's car. DSG may introduce another level of PITA, sorry, complexity, and possibilities of faults but OBDEleven only give it one count so it may be an innocent party here. Do check your OBDEleven is up to date for your mum's car or generally, if you are doing diagnostics you check rather than assume, I have no idea what is required on an OBDEleven other than your wife's Golf isn't a 2019 Fabia, differences, changes and updates can relate to VIN/car built level. It is another subject we can cover later if you want but as you know not to fully trust the computers also do not put all your faith into your Cteks and your battery tester. The CAN three faults might be something to expand on further. If you know anyone with another 2019 Fabia appropriate scan tool you could confirm OBDEleven results and perhaps get more info and diagnosis. Are you your mum's car) in Ireland or somewhere (else) in Europe, in case things vary as most members here work from a UK perspective of the cars?

Hi, welcome. You don't say what year your mum's car is, that could be important. For low battery often they can be recharged with an appropriate battery charger (even VAGs) 😄 but I can understand with relatives and friends often it's easier to replace the battery. Could be electric wire(s), connections, relay(s) or board or other stuff. Did you clear the error codes with your OBDEleven after the new battery was fitted or check for them after the new battery was fitted? Was your phone battery with reasonable charge, OBDEleven program fully up to date, good wireless connections with no drop outs when you 'coded' the new battery (and check for error codes)? Was it just short journey(s) your mum did for a day? First check the battery and its installation, then check your coding of the new battery, mistakes can happen. What were the 20+ error codes? Sorry for all the questions but only you were there and have the car and tools in the metal and plastic and not anyone here on site so it's starter diagnostics, some might give quick answers or suggestions but obviously that not me (other than as I've already put).

You should be able to get emission related codes even with simple non-VAG tools (subject to the reader or scan tool being appropriate to VW, model and year, car battery and tool battery being at a reasonable state of charge and program check for being up to date before use). I don't know what VAG tool was used in 2000 but it would have been very basic compared to many of today's tools and (IIRC) your car has a 16 pin standard socket possibly (IIRC) only a few of those 16 available sockets are used, and the systems protocols used were more basic. So a lot less information and interaction than on later cars. As this is your first MoT with this car and it's done 10 in the last year, how long have you had this car and how long did the last owner have the car? Never missing a service from new is good, particularly a couple of decades back as more was done on a service but this changed over time to basically being very little more than an engine oil and filter change which isn't even a proper service for the engine let alone the car as a whole. More recent years service, maintenance and repairs history may be more relevant for your current issue. 10k-miles this year is good for the car. Your list, as regards the engine, was missing engine air filter and spark plugs as obvious example but they may have been change in previous recent years. Previous mot fails for emissions doesn't tie in well with regular (timely?) annual services unless these were just oil and filter "services" but something must have been done to get the MoT passes for those years. What makes you say the engine management light doesn't come on when it should, computers aren't to be fully relied on, they are not always the answer or give incorrect answers, and some of the computer programs have wide margins of tolerance built in to them, so much that a (non-technical) human can feel or detect a fault well before the computers trigger a warning. I'm not knowledgeable enough to know how you fiddle the light not to come other than removing a bulb -are you saying the light doesn't come on when it should by what the car's Owner's Manual tells you(?). Emissions could be due to many factors and causes, other than lack of full, and proper, servicing and maintenance thing like lambda sensor and injector(s) or their settings would come to mind before any manipulation of computer programs. Has the car got or had any sort of "fuel saving" device(s) fitted now or before? What code reader, scan tool, VAG tool are you using? How many miles did the car do in the year before last and year and two before that? When was the engine air filter (and air box) last inspected, cleaned or changed - same for spark plugs? What petrol do you run it on, and previously if you know? Generally, not necessarily for this Fail, for the MoT test you need to ensure the tester is testing the car to the requirements for a year 2000 car and engine, not all MoT testers are fully trained or qualified (believe it or not) or know or are used to testing old cars. As I put other current and past Felicia owners here will know more than me and it's been 3 years now since I used a 1973 car as a daily, and that strictly didn't need an MoT and MoT requirements related to it were less than even a 1980s car let alone a 2000 car so what little knowledge I had I've mostly forgotten.

Been in that position with replacement old car parts many, many times, we don't buy these parts out of choice but because we are out of choices.

Have a look or search for threads and info, or Google that may well bring you back here, for how much or how little info a 2000 VWŠkoda might or might not give to any scan tool. It also depends on what and what level scan tool or code reader you are using. Go back to pre-scan tool diagnostics anyway, which you normally need no matter the age of the car and how many modules and sensors it has on it. Failed emissions, running rich - by how much. What is the service history of the car particularly recently, did you give the car a good warm up and blow out before taking it for the MoT. Haas the car done much mileage recently and in the past few year, or since a last proper service. Any new parts fitted or work done on the car in the last year. You can check sensors with a multimeter.

4 and a half year old isn't that fresh but I suppose at least it has had time to settle and perhaps lose some of it "rubber" smell and excess black colouring. 🙂

Is 2020-12 manufacturer year and month or "best before" date. 😄 I used to fit top hoses that were crazy at less than 12 months old, which is why I went over to (purpose made from ) silicone hose kit (three-ply as four ply was difficult to fit in some circumstances) a fit and forget solution (I know you can't get such kits for your model).

Usually it's case of getting a plastic tool and levering up the the gear lever shroud base, screwdriver can be used if you are careful not to scratch or otherwise damage the base or where it fits into. You can use purpose made car trim tools or I use an old kitchen spatula for many jobs like this. Usually as you run the tool along you will feel where the holding lugs are to gently ease inwards and up, once you have two or three sides released the base will lift out giving you access. There will be videos on the internet where this will be shown, perhaps not on a Scala but the principles remain the same. To lubricate, WD-40 Multi-Use is not a long lasting lubricant, I recommend GT85 as it is a good longer lasting lubricant, a good penetrating/releasing fluid too, has PTFE (instead of silicone) and smells nice. It may be available in Italy as it is also made by WD-40 Company but I do not know. - https://gt85.co.uk/ Try spraying one small area at a time and test the gear lever movement for creaks to confirm where the creak is, and if it is the gear lever causing the creaking. Good luck.

By by toggle on/off do you mean a momentary sort of action, in that you slightly push forward (or pull back) to both go from dip to main or main to dip, if so I didn't know that type was on a Fabia (Mk3 at least) but I could be wrong. I hope you're not digging deeper down but you seem happy to venture forth, whatever you do don't break either stalk or have them that they can't go back to how they were, and have back-up of computer changes to restore back to a previous working position. I look forward to the photos, good luck.

This video goes well with the previous video.

I have changed my mind I will put the video up in case it is of use. -

Hi, welcome. (edited as error) Have a look or search of the threads here and on Audio, Electronics and Security forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/7-audio-electronics-and-security/ HTH.

You can accidentally when not thinking (and bursting for a pee to find the petrol station/shop hasn't a toilet) put diesel in an old petrol car, guess how I know.

Oh dear, sounds like you need to contact Škoda Sterling to see if it's a problem from the coding work, of course this would have to be confirmed, and it might mean a restore to previous, but I'm very far from an expert in this just going from some of the posts I've seen on here. It might be some values can be changed with the VCDS but if you do that and then still need to contact and visit Škoda Sterling and they see it they might not be happy. Perhaps Lewis or others may be able to offer more and better advice.

Have you had a look here. - https://cardiagn.com/skoda/

I've used 20w in say -10c winter, it goes to -15c, but to use it in these temperatures is another reason to have a good quality (synthetic) oil which I did, and for fast road use in summer usually not more than 30c here but we have had 41.2c IIRC. Don't get too hung up on the raw numbers and generalisations, the oil needs to be suitable for your engine and its use and environment but no I'd not be using 20w-50 in my wife's 2015 VW engine.

Have a look here. - https://cardiagn.com/skoda/

Just for info, if you have AA cover they have the proper vans to take the fuel out of the tank away. Here's some advice from an AA rival for balance. - https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/advice/know-how/wrong-fuel-recovery/ Must admit I was wondering but the diesel may not have ben dispensed by a fuel station fuel pump and if it's done it's done.

We are only looking at images on a screen and the coolant is in an expansion tank that seems to have a bit of a tint to the clear plastic so this will effect how the coolant looks inside, taking a little coolant out would show it's true colour to compare (be it pinkish, violet or purple) to a sample of G13 or G12evo, or other G12 - or compare the expansion tank to another 2023 Superb. I'm not sure there would be any or much noticeable difference in colour in mixing G13 with any of the G12s but if they are from different suppliers who knows but I doubt it but I've also not seen those mixes so can't know for sure. @GreenGeorge something I forgot - the coolant is a bit below the 'Min' level, I'd want to know why. This is a subject that might best be covered by looking in, and/or asking in the Superb Mk3 or Mk4 forum with those photos to see how they compare for 2023 owners.

0w8 to 20, what VW have finally got to is like syrup. 😄 I'm much more used to 20w-50 engine oil and been using (fully) synthetic oils for decades despite being told they would destroy my engines (by people who barely used their "classics" when I used mine as dailies, the oils offered additional protection from all the other cooling issues and overheats rather than destroy the engines.

Bearing wear might be given over importance but that'd be another great debate, as I put I lean towards 0w30 but could be persuaded to 0w-20 (by other than VW I'm afraid). Annual mileage that low might well necessitate annual changes at least, that's not the sort of mileage that's always helpful but I've know old cars with lower annual mileage, though I'd not trust this with a modern car particularly something like a VW. I'm with you I prefer extra protection from oils above the minimum required standard (mainly or when something else goes wrong on old cars but also for spirited driving when wanted and possible). I'm helping change the gearbox (and rear axle) oil on a mate's car and I've managed to persuade him to go with a better quality gear oil to save having to do the change so soon again. He previously used an oil that meets the manufacturer's specification but it wasn't that long ago and it needs changing again, a known issue with the gearbox. For decades now having had various old over-priced, over valued cars called "classics" I've dealt with oil beliefs and know like other beliefs most stop with what they're happy with and feel reassured by and that's fair enough as science has fashions and changes with tim and makes mistakes and frankly sometimes lies (it's not just those at VW) so who really knows who right and when and what's good for one may not be so good for another. In the old days when I was a young girl and it was all fields around here I knew of people who never or very rarely done any service work on their cars and they carried on working for many years so possible a much more money, time and hassle saving and efficient way of car ownership but I can't see getting away with this for so long with more modern cars. Even experts don't agree so expecting this with a general population of car owners is optimistic.

Any sign of any impact perhaps from something throw up from the road. Noises can be very difficult to pin down and anything from the underside can be amplified to sound loud inside the car. Look generally in the front area, both wheels arches and perhaps engine bay area then look at the underside going back to the rear. Noise(s) that sound like they're at the front can originate from the rear and visa-versa, and what one person describes as sounding at the front another person my say is at the rear, or middle. Try bouncing the front of the car, passenger side first, see how bouncy it is before it stops, really the shocks absorbers are the springs and the dampers dampen the movement from them, the weaker the damper(s) the more bouncy. If the passenger side varies a lot from the driver's side then that is more worn, leaking, "missing", damaged than the other.

POA has pros and cons of use, similar or same things can be achieved by different blends, as always a good oil is a good. Unless VW have made (another) balls-up or compromise with their engines I'm not sure using a "thinner" or "thicker" oil would show up much in the short to medium term, oil analyst might perhaps show different wear on different bits or to different extent. For other than cold starts perhaps a thin for its 20 range 0w-20 compared to a thick for its 30 range 0w30 oil might show more differences and effect in use, whether enough to make any real odds other than a very small difference in emission and fuel consumption only use and time might tell. Judging by past experience I don't think VW would rush to let their Dealerships and their staff, let alone customers, know of any problems relating to certain engines or generally whether related to oil weight range or not but as they don't make the oils (or coolants or batteries) themselves I'm sure they'd be happy to use them as a scapegoat (again?).

As appropriate, low power on car and/or tool, drops in wi-fi, internet, bluetooth, non-up-to-date, programs, are potentials for non-success (and off-course with someone like me fat-finger(s), numberer and letters mix-ups).

Current VW coolant (from 2019) is G12evo (following on from G13, of course!) to me 12evo looks pinkish but VW call G12+, G12++, G13 and G12evo violet (G13 looks pinkish to me, not seen the other two). What they are not is brown - but the coolant you have looks an off (dirty?) pinkish to me, as Ootohere has put perhaps mixed with something else, I'd not expect that from a two year old car, or two years after a (good) coolant change. Two owners on a 2023 car(?). HTH.