nta16

Yes fair enough my mistake to put VW, should have just put look for any numbers that might be part numbers on the part to help identify the part but of course these numbers, if any are on the part, may not be part numbers at all, just somewhere to start from. Well done on finding the information on the Maxgear 32-0206, I didn't look it up and a quick Google search now and first result shows this to be, to me, a worryingly inexpensive cable suggesting possibly not the highest quality but I could well be wrong, at Autodoc a supplier, like many others, that seems to offer these low priced brands of part manufacturers that possible buy the same Chinese made part but again I could well be wrong and I have never bought any parts from Autodoc and see they also sell from brands with reputations for well made parts. Checking the correct part is ordered and delivered and is correct for application, preferably well before installation so there might be time to get it's correct replacement and not at point of having the car apart and then discovering it's the wrong part is all, er, part of the process of doing the work. It's bad enough when you get the correct part and find it's not as well made as it should be or is faulty or not fully functioning, often you might find this later with common use of the car and have to start the whole process all over again, oh the great joy of that! I have ordered the wrong part and manufacturers have sent me the wrong part, sometimes miscatalogued, or part miss-boxed and or labelled and the greatest joy a faulty or wrongly made part that is "one in 5,000" or "one in 20,000" errors and of course, a favourite, "you are the first person to have a problem with this".

Small English car manufacturers used to use car parts sourced from different large car manufacturers and sometimes "modify" or modify them for fit, my mate was up in his 1996 car this morning that has Ford and Rover parts that I can think of. Or even within the same group of companies parts were often shared, such as an MG having a Morris steering but fitted other way up. And luxury brand like Aston Martin or (formerly sports) Lotus having BL parts from humble family cars. Then of the car manufacturers don't make most of the parts anyway . . .

@Blue8793841 your post is appreciated by others but is not the type of post the OP appreciates, he's put all he wants to know is does the arm rest need to be removed to adjust the cable or not, rum4mo has already tried to help twice, I know from previous experience I can't help this bloke so I'm only trying to help others here.

For other viewers / readers of the thread - rum4mo has given good advice, and the answer, as far as I can see, perhaps others know differently or better relating to a 2018 (1.0 TSI) but unless they post here I'd suggest following rum4mo posts.

I very much doubt it too, I referenced the filter type and its cleanliness (and cleanliness of surrounding area , vent/pipe/hose/cavity/chamber/wotever) in relation breathing difficulties. I'd forgotten that, thanks for putting the link up to the threads, I'll take a look and see if the VW example in the Mann filter leaflet matches up. ETA: your first link seems a little off did you mean - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/516188-fusebox-opening-on-mk4-fabia/#findComment-5847128

VW took over Škoda whilst the Favorit was a current model as that is when I had my Škodas and my wife had her Favorit and corporate VWŠkoda UK wanted to get rid of the friendly helpful back street Škoda Dealership to be more corporate VW, those that didn't or couldn't conform to this had to go, Dealerships and customers. The Felicia followed the Favorit, similar shape but more fashionably rounded for the time. If you look again you will see I did put there might be a VW part number on the original part (if it is original or VW part) not that there was a VW part number necessarily, as I don't know as I'm not an expert but anyone can look for any numbers on parts to perhaps give clues to the parts required, VW part numbers or not, subject to the part being correct for application, but detective work is needed and might not lead you anywhere. This why someone like yourself is needed to help Schloompa identify and get the correct part (or one that can successfully be used)you know specifics I only know generalities some of which are experience with Škodas in the UK in the mid-80s to early 90s, ordering all sorts of parts for different items since the later 1970s and living fulltime in England since 1960. Admittedly I might not always remember things correctly but that life and age. 😄

The links I put up will give you the alternatives. Increase sidewall and how much extra you get does depend on the particular design, build and materials of the tyres you are comparing and in relation to the wheel width the tyres are fitted to and tyre pressure you run at. Two different makes and/or models of tyre can handle differently even if the tyres are the same size on the same wheels. Provided Wheel.Size site has the correct information, for a Europe 2024 Karoq 1.5 TSI (148hp) it shows tyre 215/55r17 (still a stupidly short wall size but that's fashion for yer) on 7J (7" wide) 17" wheels, as original equipment size, what particular tyre you put on this will effect the braking, handling, road holding, road noise and comfort compared to another 215/55 r17 tyre. How much difference and what you prefer are more about personal choice - and fashion if the want the latest or current tyre tread pattern.

Do you need to raise the car much to do the clutch, could you improvise something (safe of course) borrow jack and stands or could you use ramps or (safe) improvised ramps. At least your wheels and tyres should fit on wheel ramps. I like to keep the car as much as possible with all four tyres on thee ground. Always clean and check any tools or equipment you borrow well before doing the work, lubricate as required to ease operating them, even if you where given the tools and equipment dirty do consider handing them back clean, fully working and lubricate some with appreciate this and be more willing to lend out more or again, some might just take advantage but learning how to handle such people is part of life. Many people with decent tools may not lend them out or be very reluctant. Unless the suspension has sunk or dropped there's a reasonable amount of ground clearance for some jobs under the car I guess (could well be wrong) also depends on your body and body health. ETA: StevesTruck may say you can't do this job without some lift. Doing the brakes of course will need the car supported. I remember owners of old cars telling others you only need a few basic tools, basic tools yes, a few may get you started on many/some jobs but the more you do the more you find no matter how many tools you have you could do with different ones to make the work that much easier, and then you need storage for all these tools. Always look after the tools, don't say use decent screwdrivers as chisels or prybars. And if working on/under rusty or mucky cars have eye protection, the eye A&E has closing hours! 😄 Proper tradesmen or craftsmen (not me) were taught how to make some of their tools of the trade and may keep or still be using them when they retire. If you don't have much money then you buy the best you can afford and look after them. You can buy full sets now for reasonable costs instead of buying individually - of course you have to prevent them being stolen, or lost. I had those Allen keys since 1979, no idea where I left them, imperial too . . . 😢

Far enough, if you've swapped the bulb, checked wiring and connections, etc. These things are fantastically not "Simply Clever", more unnecessarily over-complicated with plenty of potential for very high expense (higher than even the module). if the units are easy to get at I'd have tried any "trick" to save buying a new module as I don't fully trust the car's computer let alone in conjunction with another computer (Carista/device/connections/batteries) but sometimes I'd pay out to save hassle. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Things are as they are, unfortunately. Got to put tho', I like things simple as that's all I can understand but I think it's bit of an over simplification (if not inaccurate) to say just changing alloy wheels will change the handling, so will changing worn but legal, good and safe, tyres to the same size, make an model of tyre but new and unworn. Does this also mean the car is only offered with a single choice of wheel and the salesmen can't up-sell you more expensive wheels for your new car. Is the 2024 Karoq SE-L tricked up like a BMW M-Sport Ego or Merc AMG Ego then where the suspension electronics are so particular to ego stroking only one wheel and tyre can be used and even if same sizes front wheel can't go to back, that will upset M-Sport and AMG drivers even more than me putting this. 😁 Possibly if you spoke to someone else at your insurers (or other insurers) you may find they don't class it as a modification - but I stopped warning about this possibility as other posters told how unlikely it was. Changing to the Goodyears might affect the handling, what would the Dealership say about that I wonder. If other Karoq (2024) owners rate the Goodyear over Bridgestone by experience of swapping then hopefully you should find some improvement. I'd have 215/60 R16 and only because that's the smallest VWŠkoda do on that model (if internet is correct). Wheels and tyres are all party frocks and high heels now (well last-decades), glorified shopping trolley cars have 18" alloys. :shakesheadwalksawaymuttering: :weresmecoat:

For decades the fashion has been for oversized wheels and over-wide low sidewall tyres. As put if you stick to the range available to the model you should be fine. See the following websites to easily work out what sizes you might be able to use. Note, all sources of information, including from manufacturers, website databases and blokes off the internet can have errors and omissions so double check and cross check any information. Wheel-Size.com - https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/ Tyre size calculator - https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/ Will They Fit - https://www.willtheyfit.com/ HTH.

No I don't think it needs 'coding' and if it doesn't work plug and play I think you can return it and get your money back under eBay protection, this assumes it is the module and nothing else at fault.

Thanks for confirming Safelock message, I can't even remember if my wife's 2015 Fabia shows a lock symbol but it's not a large symbol if it does. If the other two keys can lock or unlock the car from where they are then they're in range at least. Not all faults are picked up by the computers and/or report as error codes but if you could put up that VCDS full report some may see something in that, particularly if the car is play up at the time but still worth looking at perhaps even if not, someone here or on this site's 'VCDS & Diagnostics' forum. Or perhaps someone near you with a VCDS too that knows about such stuff may be able to help you, have a look on the VCDS owners map. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029

Hi, welcome. I hope the following helps. You can call out to sean2800 by adding the at symbol to the start of the name - example @nta16 = @nta16 sean2800 only made the one post and last visited the site 4 April 2022, you can find this information by putting your cursor (finger?) on the name or logo - but if you call out perhaps you might get a reply (if the email contact is still active). Normally I'd point you to the relevant model and year forum on this site but the Felicia Fun didn't go up to 2007 and wiring vary a lot model to model and (part) year to (part) year. Being a General Maintenance forum this probably wasn't the best forum for an answer to such a technical question particularly on a non-Škoda model but perhaps someone might have known in the more specialised forums on the this site that relate to tuning and performance modifications, projects relevant to the model and year or generals electronics but I don't now what'd relate to a Touran or 2007 Caddy, if you do you could try that forum. Good luck

Thanks I didn't think they would be but if I ever knew very little I forget and am unsure now and this final angle torque stuff is too new and VW (German marques?) to me. I used to like helping those new to "classic" over-priced and over-valued old cars that were 60s and 70s MGs as I used them as dailies, until 3 years ago for 16 years my one and only daily car was a 1973 MG Midget, as I was at a beginners level of mechanics but had decades of experiences and latterly forced into doing some work myself as I found I had to correct the work I'd paid others to do and as some jobs I could do it better only because I cared a bit more and wasn't out to rip myself off. I used to have lots of notes, mainly for application to those types of cars but they could be applied generally but I deleted them when I changed computer just after selling the Midget. The new subscribers to the Classic Škoda forums tend now to be new to old cars and their repairs, servicing and maintenance just when the old-hand regulars have drifted away. When I owned my three Estelle 2s in the mid-80s to early 90s, and my wife had a Favorit, they were new cars under 2 years warranty (1 for BL and other makes) so the helpful and friendly back-street Škoda Dealership looked after them, and VW had barely took over.

Yeap I realised you meant rally cars but as you say there are a few pretend rally cars on the road with these orangy tint reflective windscreens bit like those that have the seat so low their buttocks must be kissing the carpet and their nose on the steering wheel, lowering the centre of gravity of heavy old buses like Golfs. When we were lads I knew one that used to sit on cushions on the drivers seat, he looked taller than he was, don't know why as he didn't need much of an excuse to get into a fight at any time but it did look funny to us following behind him each in our own cars. Until we all couldn't afford to put £1.50 of petrol in each of our cars at a time and started sharing driving and passenger seats (cushions not allowed) 😄

Are you sure it looked like a lock, do you have the amber triangle of doom with your dash. How close to the car are those keys for radio signal, could both or all three be fighting for the car's attention, is that how it works, I forget, as you can guess I dislike them, I'm already too good at forgetting keys. Years ago after a service for my wife's Vauxhall (GM unfortunately) when the remote battery was replaced as part of the service a little after my wife said the remote was playing up (I always used the keyblade, that also synchronised the remote) I took the remote apart to look at the battery, it didn't look like it was sitting right but that might have been me taking things apart, tested the voltage with my multimeter, 3.2v, great, gave the battery a wipe both side checked the remote contacts and put the remote back together, synchronise the remote and it never played up again. I can't be sure but I think the garage might not have nicely located the battery in the remote but I could have been wrong. Also some have found hopefully cheap or very old batteries may show a good voltage but still not work well. And of course you want to install the correct battery 2025 is 20mm across and 2.5mm deep and 2032 are 20mm across and ... well guess. Putting a 2025 instead of a 2032 isn't a good idea and probably not the over way either, though both are nominal 3v. I would separate the three keys from each other and keep out of distance of the car or in a metal tin each if kept indoors and alternate their use. Also check the battery in each. Some say this make of battery is good, others another make, I use the expensive Duracell for my wife's car as I don't like walking 2 miles to her work on literally the coldest day of the year when a remote plays up (failed actually only £180 to replace). I've used Poundland strips of button batteries before and they have all been fine and long lasting but I would never risk it on my wife's car or any VW product.

So same system 9 years apart. I don't want any screens touch or not - but it's not my car and I don't suppose the car would run without the "infotainment". I remember when we had a insurance car years back (new not old unfortunately) DS it had ambience cabin lighting, I knew then modern cars would never be for me again. 😄

@Ootohere are mirrored windscreens legal on road cars?

Sod's Law that the car plays up at inconvenient times, I used to run old (and brand new) English made cars and had it happen so many times. Sorry I don't do Google GMail stuff other than searches, not that I know anything about VCDS and reports other than looking at obvious stuff, others will know if there's a widget/digit/code out of place but not me. Other upload VCDS reports to their posts in I guess some sort of MS document or image, I'm just cut/ copy 'n' paste, jpg image/screenshot or pdf file, computers annoy me too much to do much more, I can't stand their inconsistences and failings, had too many decades of them. If your 12v battery is/was low all sorts of odd error codes can show, once you deleted them and sufficiently recharged or replaced the 12v battery and perhaps driven for a bit most of those errors might not return, those that do you check out. Key batteries can be a bit of a pain even when replaced and this KESSY type stuff is just another layer of potential pain (I like a metal keyblade and that's preferably no alarm or electronic immobiliser. Where do you keep the second key? You should never regard it as the "spare" key but use it in some sort of alternation with the other key, that way you know the batteries are good, where to find the second key ("spare" keys are often mislaid, lost or possibly flat battery) and if with keyblades more even wear on keyblades and mechanical locks. Is there any synchronisation with the car to be done after changing key battery, if so did you do it? What was that blurred white lock like symbol and message below on the dash about, what does it mean or relate to? That's me out of ideas. You might not be able to get your car into an available slot at the Dealership before you go away, I would check first thing tomorrow if that's what you want.

Yes the Germans love their dedicated tools (bloody self-closing hose clamps for one. I have no idea what special tools you might need for changing a clutch cable but if VW insisted on them if you can find someone who used to work on these cars independent garages you might find they used standard tools or adapted/modified old tools for certain jobs. General tools are lower priced now than in the past even better quality ones but some cheap ones are absolute rubbish and not even worth having for one use only. Old second hand tools in perhaps odd sets can be bargains. Some of the cheap names are pretty good too for DIY use Bergen/US Pro tools I've found to be good for price. Halfords Advanced used to be very good at very good prices but prices are higher now and very few special offers. Even the cheap just Halford tools were alright but I don't know about now. I gave away a few sets of spanners and sockets over the years, not realising some were good quality as they were from the 70s and early 80s and the likes of the screwdrivers I had to buy two at a time as that's all I could afford one at least is a collector's item £50 when I was looking for good s/h screwdrivers that fit my small chubby hands and fingers. My wife bought me some for a present and they were all ruined by someone without a clue cutting and grinding back to shape, I use them to open the lids on the tin of wood preserver. For brakes particularly THE most important system, components and parts on the car (and tyres are part of the braking system) you want the job done properly so plan everything well in advance, get everything together before you start the work, check you have stock of all you need plus reserves where appropriate or might be needed. You can't always reuse the existing fixings so check that and their condition, someone might have butchered them, or fitted the wrong parts or fittings previously. Never assume any part just because it is on the car is working is fully fitted properly or fully functioning proper, don't copy what's there check how it should be before you start the work. As said before allow loads more time than you think you will need and all conditions like, weather, the light available, space available, tools, consumables, cleaning car, parts, area and yourself (brakes are often a very dirty business). As much as possible use the correct tools or at least very appropriate tools, don't risk damaging or breaking anything. Forget WD-40 Muti-Use instead use GT85 as a longer lasting lubricant and as a penetrating/releasing fluid (or PlusGas for penetrating/releasing fluid but it's not ass good as it used). Clean area as required, shake can well if spray, apply, leave to soak as long as possible (over night or longer if possible) slightly tighten if possible (to break rust/muck seal) before try to loosen, never over force fixing or they might shear. When getting the break pistons back don't forget to allow for brake fluid rise in reservoir but don't let dirt or moisture get into the reservoir. If you are changing the pads aren't you also changing the discs? What about the rear brakes and handbrake? Good luck, stay safe, believe me a small injury you shrug off when you're young can turn into a bigger regret when you're older and much older and you wish you hadn't been so macho (another description of stupid) back when.

Climatic wotsit heating/cooling does throw another variable in especially if your wife is, in my opinion, fortunate enough not to have this less-than-wonder feature in her 10 year old Fabia. It hacks me off enough that the air-con switches on without my bidding when I change flow direction settings, far too much interference with the driver operating the controls and driving the car on a 2015 car, let alone 2024! If I remember (!?) if I use my wife's car next Friday, although I avoid going outside too much when it's too sunny and warm (hot) for me (my old neighbour called me Dracula because when the sun was out I was in) I'll try to remember to take the thermometer and see what sort of difference I get from outside cabin to inside with air-con on (usually at second speed on fan blower), that's if I remember.

A reasonable point, the computers will be calculating with interior and exterior temperatures. Or those that they think they are, my wife's Fabia outside temperature can show a lot higher than the air temperature and takes a while of driving to sort itself out (neither "smart" or "Simply Clever" just the usual computer dumb). Maybe the 10 year old Fabia (wait that's the same age as my wife's Fabia) isn't as "Simply Clever" as the 2024 Fabia and (wrongly by 2024 standards) achieves what Scorpiodan wants. I know with the air-con on in my wife's car once it has got rid of the solar gain cabin heat can get a bit cold for my liking (yet it's my wife that has five layers of clothing on in 25C heat). My general understanding from reading stuff on this site is that in some ways the MK4 Fabia might not be as good as the Mk3, the Mk3 is generally lower quality than the Mk2 (other than perhaps later MK2s) and Mk2 not as well built as Mk1. Such is progress. Goes for other marques too I expect but perhaps to a lesser extent for some.

You can check the battery/alternator charging with the VCDS but I'm not familiar with it I think it's a horrible legacy nerdy presentation system no doubt great for those familiar with it or experts with it. You can also use a multimeter to to check the alternator (and battery) well hopefully you can I've no idea if VW has made this overcomplicated on your model. The sound of the car not starting in your video to me suggests other than a low state of 12V battery charge, something else inhibiting the engine start,but do remember I'm not an expert in anything. My first thought would be immobiliser system perhaps or these touch or proximity keys, their communication or batteries perhaps. You might be better getting a full report off the VCDS to post up in the 'VCDS & Diagnostics' forum of Briskoda for VCDS owners to look at (one computer thing can affect one or more other computer things). Doesn't matter on last video but for future photos and videos holding the camera/phone/device for landscape and not portrait generally gets more useful information on to the image. There's also some sort of lock and message showing on the dash but too blurred to see. You could also look and search this forum to see if other Kodaiq (particularly 2018 perhaps) owners have had similar engine starting, battery or battery charging problems. ETA: always consider there might be more than one issue at play and finding one might not resolve all.

CU_CUK_FP 26 021.pdfThere are still some good mechanics about and people acting decently in the motor trade but they're fewer and further apart now than even than the past and they often have enough work that they don't need to work weekends and have waits for their services. Sorry to hear of your breathing difficulties because modern cars are so (over) big (and heavy) that they have lots of glass area on then for solar gain and the air movement in them far less, the ventilation system in my wife's Fabia in particular doesn't suit my wants or needs, with and without air-con on. As your car is over a year old and regardless anyway you might want to look at what cabin filter is fitted and if and the area are dirty and if it's a cheaper sort than for your needs. I going with Mann filters as I've always found them good (engine oil and air filters and cabin filter) they do a "Biofunctional! "FreciousPlus" cabin filter and have guide fitting notes with them. That filter. - FP 26 021 - https://www.mann-filter.com/uk-en/catalogue/search-results/product.html/fp26021_mann-filter.html And "Mounting instructions" (hopefully VW ones at the end of the leaflet). - CU_CUK_FP 26 021.pdf Hope this might help a bit whilst you wait. ETA: if it was out of warranty I might have another suggestion but unfortunately the Dealerships can be arsey enough with warranty work or helping their customers without giving them what they consider more get-out clauses.