nta16

If the alternator is on a separate belt and it's easy to remove and put back on you could remove the belt and see what difference that makes to the noise but it doesn't fully pin things down. You are assuming where the noise(s) originate you need to confirm, putting a (mechanics) stethoscope or large screwdriver in that area with the engine running would be very foolish even if possible, even an electronic kit would be difficult in that location. For the car, home, bikes, garage, etc., etc., many have a can of the of WD-40 Multi-Use - well give that away and instead get a can of GT85 and use that instead - shake the can before use, put the red straw on, carefully spray into just the alternator bearing area. Start the car and see if there's any difference to the noise. If so so that's probably what it is, or at least one of the noises. Then spray at centre of tensioner wheel, any difference to sound, if so another point of noise at least. If you are really lucky and the noise(s) wasn't too bad to begin with and it was grit/muck you might have washed/spun some out, this has worked on a couple of old water pumps on cars in the past (and the pumps didn't fall apart after). But if you can hear the noise(s) over the clatter of a diesel engine then probably you're not going to be that lucky. I saw a video years back where a chap revived an old seized alternator by soaking it in engine oil IIRC. Much of car servicing, maintenance and some repairs just boil down to clean and lubricate (mechanics are just cleaners often). GT85 is a good longer lubricant (than WD-40 Multi-Use) also a good penetrating/releasing fluid, can be used for some cleaning, has PTFE instead of silicone and smells nice (always important 😁). I used to use GT85 in the 1980s on my pushbikes, it was a British company then but like so many others isn't now, took over by a large invasive American corporation called - WD-40 Company! (Coca-Cola and Pepsi Cola all over again). There some info you asked for, a lot you didn't and a history lesson, never mind the quality feel the width. 😁 There was actually a bit of quality. Er, no I'm not on commission for GT85 and generally I'd not promote an American (or other) company unless it products I have found to be good (with years of use). Let us know how you get on, GT85, WD-40 Multi-Use or any other. Good luck. GT85 - https://gt85.co.uk/

@RCC49 if you, and others, don't want to you don't need to spend £79 on an appropriate charger maintainer and personally a mate has two of those and whilst they're fine I'm with Shania (Twain) they don't impress me much especially for the money as the two identical units he has work show slightly (ETA: missing word) different (perhaps one is a one-off). For £15 the ones at Lidl/Aldi are fine lots of people use them successfully, my neighbour has had one for a number of years now. For £30 (or less, depends where you buy) you can get the Ring 4-amp, I prefer the 4-amp to 6-amp, just takes a little longer for more versatility of use, been using it on my wife's 2015 Fabia (and neighbour's cars) for a few years now. Ring Smartcharger 4 - https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc904-4a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html For those that want or prefer 6-amps - Ring Smartcharger 6 - https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc906-6a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html Other makes and suppliers are of course available and if you prefer the reassurance of higher price cost that's fair enough, I still have a cheap (not "smart") charger from the 1980s that still works well and a semi-smartish medium price charger from the 1990s that still works well. I very much doubt I need worry about if my Ring 4-amp "smart" (they're not) charger is still going in about 30 years time, but be nice if it was, what the 12v battery would be used on I'm not sure (house lights perhaps).

Fair enough. proof you could now do better/different. As I put the engine is not one of the most important component or system on the car, if you are interested the post I've just put up on another topic applies (mainly) for you too. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/532483-reverse-not-displayed-on-maxi-dot-display/#findComment-5943196 HTH.

I'm not sure these things are covered but a lot more is in the 'Owner's Manual' for the car which should have come with the car but can be lost (same as second key) as a second-hand used car. The 'Owner's Manual' for a 2016 is a paper printed book. If you read it and refer to it when you required you can learn a lot about the car and save yourself time, hassle and money from avoiding unnecessary visits to Dealerships, garages, mechanics and auto-electricians. If you read it you can often know more about the car than some long term owners too. If you don't have the paper printed copy of the 'Owner's Manual' then you can get a free VWŠkoda pdf copy from their website, part-year manufacture or VIN applicable. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models At 8-9 years old the car should have had a fair bit of "service" and "maintenance" behind it, the VWŠkoda schedules for these things are already pretty thin so if owners are late or miss some of them things are thinner still. See an old out-date for prices schedule below, note very important systems like brakes, steering and suspension (all three include tyres) and lighting, safety electrics are not mentioned really. One thing that is important to the complex and intertwined VW computer systems and programs is that the car's 12v battery needs to be in a reasonable state of charge otherwise they can start to play up and throw up all sorts of warnings, error codes and issues that affect the car. The headlights might seem bright enough and the engine start and the battery still be in a lower state of charge than the computers like, there are lots of threads and posts about this. All can be prevented by appropriate driving or better still the very occasional use of an appropriate battery charger maintainer in a preventative manner. There is lots of information on this site and members willing to offer information and advice, most will relate to UK cars but the differences tend to be small. If you could add 1.2(?) TSI (?) engine code (CJZD?) 110 PS, 6 speed manual to your details that can sometimes speed things up for those that look at 'Author's stats'. Click on the down arrow ( v ) at the top right corner of my post as an example. HTH.

Getting up ramps can be a pain especially with modern cars and their interfering computer programs also all modern cars for a good number of decades now have had to follow fashion and have oversized wheels and over-wide tyres, even glorified shopping trollies, high heels and party frock style. These may be oversized for your orange Halfords ramps, my old ones and current ones are 2 Tonne but for 135mm to 185 mm tyres, so just in if you have the 185/65 r15 tyres. The ramps may slide, if I use them I brace them against the wall with substantial pieces of wood so they don't slide forward at least and they will also be parallel to the wall so straight on for approach. Unless you have modified your car the front should clear the start of the ramps, approach, straight to ramps and slowly, getting up and on top is always 'fun'. Have your wife (your the glamorous assistant, or very reluctant assistant in my case) clear of the car at the side, obviously not at the front or rear of the car, if anything gets hurt it should never be your wife, you, or anyone or creature else just the useless lump of metal (and German plastic) or tools. The very best and/or most expensive car in the world is in reality of no real importance or value. I injured my back, still suffer now, by trying to stop the Fabia road wheel falling 1" (25mm) to the ground instead of letting it fall, stupid thoughtless instinct (and !"£$%^& stupid VW wheel bolts instead of wheel studs). I got a small injury when I was 19 and for 40 years it was fine, after that it plays up more and more often. Trust no one, my neighbour couldn't follow simple instructions getting his 2023 car on to some 3" (75mm) breeze blocks and went forward instead of back, good job I wasn't too close. Refill oil only to half or two-thirds until off the ramps and on level ground, let oil settle for a while after the engine has ben run before checking oil level. It's easier to add more than take a bit out so top up in small amounts, leave to settle then check. I prefer to fill to about 80%-90% then fill to max line next morning. If you have it at max line (or anywhere just below) you then know the oil level you put it at and can then tell and judge how much oil the engine consumes before the next engine oil and filter change. IF required I always top up below it gets below halfway between Max and Min on the stick, hopefully that won't b before the next oil and filter change but that depends on engine, the oil and driving conditions. On the cabin filter clean the (inside) area as well, same for engine air filter, don't just replace the filter and leave muck in the area, some spray stuff for cabin filter, I've never had to bother other than on a neighbour's car which rarely moved and a few years since last filter change so had damp there too. Oh, don't be impatient as it often works against you. any work on a car leave lots more time than you think you might need, double, treble, more that way if you finish before this it's great but if you don't leave long enough then rushing like impatience can often work against you and can make the job(s) a lot longer and more hassle. Consider what you'll do if you get stuck for any reason, are the shops open, can you get deliveries, when will it be dark/cold/wet/too hot/too windy, have you got another vehicle, etc.. I've rarely had a garage to work in, for some coolant system jobs I've allowed 3 warm dry days to get the work done - also to allow for getting fed up with it and going to do something more enjoyable (which is anything for me) usually when I do this I easily get the job finished in a day, a morning once, the fact that Billy-big-******* can do it in x-hours or x-minutes never worries me (they're always exaggerating or never allowing for full preparation and end tidying, cleaning, putting away and checking for restocking. Now I spend more time drinking mugs of tea and needing to go for pees, and looking for the tool(s) or fitting(s) I was using or put down only seconds ago. If I've dropped a fixing I have to wait for my wife to come home and she spots it in seconds, even if it's a black fitting fell in a black engine bay against black parts and paints, 'ow she do it!!?!!

I was very pleased with the Mann Filters oil filter I used on my wife's 2015 Fabia. I'm not a VW or German car fan so have no loyalty to Tosch but I'm sure their oil filters are fine (a lot of Tosch stuff is just labelled, anything electrical or electronics I favour Japanese, VW spark plugs are/were NGK in a VW box I believe. What oil you use is always a debate and beliefs, go with what you prefer or are happy with, personally I use Millers Oils because they're a local blender, based on VW's engine recommendation Millers Which Oil has EE Performance Engine Oil C5 V 0w20 (VW 508 000 / 509 000) but a thicker oil (0w-30 or 5w-30) will not damage your engine and if you want to go with a C3 instead I believe AGFalco has thoroughly tested this ibn the real world. Great. You'll probably do a better job than most paid professionals, it's very easy as I can do it, just prepare thoroughly, take your time doing the work (don't worry about how quick any Billy-big-*******s say they can do the job (often gross exaggerations anyway) and check and treble check everything, not doing so is where many professionals balls up. Most servicing, maintenance and many repairs boil down to clean and lubricate - changing engine oil and filter being a prime example. Things I do that I've not always seen all on videos for oil changes are - get the engine fully warm (hot - obvious remain safe), check the fill (level) cap (plug) fully removes before removing drain plug, leave to empty for as long as possible (to get ass much old oil and muck out leaving more space for fresh new clean oil) at very end of drain add in some warmed (solar or water) clean oil and leave to fully drain out as a sort of final mini-flush refill with half to two-thirds quantity of oil and check and top up slowly from there in small quantities allowing oil to fully settle, check level after first run and next morning. You don't need to prefill oil filter but do check the oil seal is on the old filter and not stuck on engine, wipe clean the area and don't forget to put a little oil on the new filter seal. The oil filter goes good hand tight, not murder tight, or forearm muscles bigger than brains tight. One of the annoying PITA parts for me is having to get the car off the ground to revive the plastic undertray (without it fitted the car could remain on the ground) and refitting it is always more PITA than it should be. Have plenty of rags or paper towelling as though there shouldn't be much mess the oil refuses to accept this. Good luck, let us know how you get on. If you take photos you could do a guide for other first timers (wee all have to do things for a first time). ETA: For future - Amazon I've rarely found to be lowest price on anything, often higher priced for same items, and if you shop around with oils you can often find sale prices, especially when brands are changing their marketing, For future Mann pollen/cabin filters 3 types IIRC) are also good and give fitting instructions, very, very easy on my wife's 2015.

I had a chance to test reverse gear tonight. I've never noticed it has "ParkPilot" (no space between words how twee) at corner if infotainment screen, so the three reversing sensors have a system name.. It took the computer system 5 seconds from me driving forward for the screen to clear the "ParkPilot", I have noticed a delay before. I never saw 1 gear in white dots until going above 5 mph (forward) there was no white dots 'R' from the three times of going in reverse (I got up to 8 mph in reverse) - but perhaps 'R' was added with 6 gears, my wife's 2015 Fabia is 5 gears.

Thanks for reporting back. Unfortunately for German "quality" engineering that's good advice, you shouldn't need to and wouldn't probably on others, 4,000 miles per year average is low but not that low, it's lower quality parts, build and design. The rear windows on my wife's 2015 Mk3 are hand crank winder handle (I much prefer this system but one of these gave a bit of a twang not long after she first got the car (18 mo0nths old 10k-miles) so from then on whenever I open the rear doors I fully wind the windows down and buck up again as the rear seats are rarely used and rear window lowered only if I ever sit in the back which is very rare indeed. 4 years old is some added stuff on "service" and "maintenance" schedules, if you bought the car brand new a bit less mileage and it might have been cheaper getting taxis.

Yes. But if you paid your friend for the oil he had (spare?) and his time and labour get your own oil next time or better still do the work yourself, it really isn't difficult or I'd not be able to do it, and be sure of the quality of work done. Lot of members here can guide you as to how easy it is to do. Did your friend do any other work on the car? The engine isn't the most important component or system on the car. If you can add your car details (1.0 110PS) that might speed things a little next time. Also you don't need to flush this oil out at next engine oil and filter change just the usual change, if done thoroughly all the better. Yeap oil specs can be very boring, especially as VW have to add their own and don't say how much is needed either. All the best.

IF it's a CHZC engine, for annual (9,400m IIRC) oil (and filter) changes then Milers give a choice EE Performance (C3) 5w-30 or 0w-30 "Latest mid SAPS technology protects both engines and after-treatment systems including particulate filters (DPF/GPF) and Selective Catalyst Reduction (SCR), delivering our ultimate soot control and environmental protection." EE 5w-30 VW 504 00 / 507 00, VW 506 00 / 506 01 VW 503 00 / 503 01, VW 502 00 / 505 01 VW 502 00 / 505 00, VW 500 00 / 501 01 https://www.millersoils.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/7877-EE-Performance-C3-5w30.pdf EE 0w-30 VW 504 00 / 507 00, VW 506 00 / 506 01 VW 503 00 / 503 01, VW 502 00 / 505 01 https://www.millersoils.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/8597-EE-Performance-C3-0w30.pdf Will oils, as with much of life, there's science (as good or bad as it is at any given point in time) and beliefs and a mix of the two. See how these compare with the Mannol Energy Premium 7908 5w-30 and what you might like, dislike and/or be concerned about, sometimes there are small degrees of difference and sometimes more so.

Hi, welcome. 18105? Look up the error codes on Ross Tech and internet generally for possible symptoms and causes, check and cross reference your VCDS results using other diagnostics tools, which includes your senses. If too much fuel is being added is that because too much air is getting in or is something fuel side putting too much fuel in for various possible reasons. I see the Freeman Steve (formerly of this Parish) and others have made suggestions on Up! forum, ironic you got here from there but that's not your matter. You can test the oxygen sensors with a multimeter. - https://www.youtube.com/@mrautoservices7354 The history, use (use, neglect) and visual and physical checks maybe important.

I didn't realise they had "Park Pilot" (bloody silly marketing terms) then, well there's another layer of complexity on top of the already (over sometimes) complex and intertwined VW computer systems, programs and programming. Plugging in a scan tool might help even more but still don't neglect the physical basics checks. But thinking about it I've never noticed R on the white dot screen on my wife's car but the Park Pilot is only her or my wonky eyes if I'm driving - if yours previously shoed R in whiter dots and now doesn't that's a different thing.

Mannol Energy Premium 7908 5w-30 - "Innovative, versatile, all-synthetic ester-containing premium synthetic engine oil for modern diesel and gas turbocharged and non-turbocharged engines. Designed in accordance with the requirements of European automakers." ACEA C3 VOLKSWAGEN 505 01 MANNOL Energy Premium 5W-30.pdf This looks a very good oil, how absolutely generally appropriate it is in medium or longer term use is a different matter perhaps. More detail on the type of engine your car has (MPI or TSI, PS or KW power, engine code *****) would pin things down a bit more, you could post here or look up things yourself. Millers Oils - Which Oil? - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/which-oil/ oilspecifications.org - Volkswagen Oil Specifications - https://www.oilspecifications.org/volkswagen.php oilspecifications.org - ACEA Engine Oil Sequences - https://www.oilspecifications.org/acea.php oilspecifications.org - VW 507.00, VW 504.00, etc: Volkswagen Motor Oil Specifications Explained - https://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/vw_motor_oil_specifications_explained.php

Hi, welcome. I'm sorry your post got missed. Which oil is it exactly, make and full model name of oil then we can look it up to see it's full specs. Don't worry too much yet. The VW specs are on top of other oils specs, German engineers love to have their own toys even though there are already plenty of others already around. On your car details you could add in to the model further details such as it's a 1.0, trim spec, gearbox, etc., see the 'Author's stats' top right corner of my post here as example only (click-on 'v' down arrow), this can help in future (for those that look). You do want a good quality oil in a VW 3-cylinder engine and the engine oil and filter change wants to be done on time and thoroughly but that's just one item of servicing on the engine let alone the whole car and the engine is not the most important component or system on the car. HTH.

Hi, welcome. Could it be a revers switch issue, or perhaps a computer system brain fart, what shows on the infotainment screen?. Do you know if you reversing lights operate as they should? My wife's 2015 5-speed manual has a delay in stopping the bleeping from reverse when taken out of revers gear but not 5-10 seconds. Usual things of make sure 12v battery is in reasonable state of charge at least, check sensors are clear and clean, the wires and connections to them are good, same for reversing switch area (you may have more than one issue to this presentation). Plug in a scan tool to see what that can tell you. HTH.

My wife's 2015 SE needs the ignition on to operate the front electric windows (rear windows have my preferred crank handles), as a passenger I want to be able to open the window(s) as I really dislike getting into or being in a sun overheated cabin. Is there a way on this model to set it up on a scanner so I don't have the key in ignition and ignition on? Thanks in advance.

Yes surprising with a VW 3 or 4 cylinder and it will be relative. Most people would expect it to sound noisier with a thinner oil. Thinner, less resistance.. Plus even if the 5w-40 was Castrol EDGE Eurocar ACEA C5 same as the 0w-20 their make ups could be different in additives and possibly base oil, then of course the difference with 0w-20 to 5w-40. Changing to a different 5w-40 than you were using may have brough differences too, probably not as much and as noticeable as the differences you have now. A 0w-20 will be a good oil and have a good make up and if you are happy with the results and it is suitable for the car short, medium and long term then great result, well done. Thanks for reporting back.

Fair enough but that might be about as good as it gets if bulb and connector and position and location of bulb, are all good. Let us know how you get on.

In UK at least I've not seen fuel filter as part of any VWŠkoda "service" or "maintenance", the Dealerships would be more than happy to have the revenue and profit for parts and labour if it was part of any schedule, and if it wasn't, but it's never been mentioned to my wife, plenty of other premature and unnecessary (and expensive) work has been mentioned though.

Other Felicia owners will know better than I. My quick thoughts - Was it darker there too before you changed the bulbs? Could just be how they are because of lighting mileometer and tripmeter. Perhaps the bulb(s) are not sitting correctly, or there could be muck on them, did you put your fingers on the glass part, could be muck on or around the dial gauge. Reflector might be dirty or tarnished or depleted with age. Is one or more bulbs bright in themselves than others? Did you check the bulb and holders had clean contacts, perhaps sprayed with electric contact cleaner if no visible crud? Modern made bulbs are often poorly made, paying more for better quality often saves time, hassles and money. That's me out of ideas.

There's a lot more to properly servicing a car than most (modern) garages, mechanics and certainly Dealerships do. The engine is not one of the most important component or system on the car - what is it that you want to achieve?

That's why I suggested somewhere that does crash repairs, though most of those have plenty of insurance work, or a place that specialises in sports or modified vehicles, or a proper diagnostic auto-electrician. No doubt there are mechanics that could do this work but a mechanic wouldn't be my first thought, particular as finding a good quality one is so difficult and then they're stacked with work already.

In this case more of an excuse for poor quality parts, spotted at only 100 months old too but mot considered good enough reason for under warranty replacement by the VWŠkoda Dealership that fitted them, funny (not!) that, obviously still misting 12 months later, which explains the short life of the factory fitted part - not "Clever". Why replace with the same, not "Clever" again. The fuel filter confused me too, typo, mistake, mistype perhaps.

Yes lucrative plus manipulates funds, revenue and profit through the various parts of the organisation. If the 2018 SEAT has a VW engine then yes but as above shows 50,000 miles (not 60,000) and 5 years that would have been in 2023, if SEAT UK operates the same as VWŠkoda UK, unless her car was near or after the cut-off date. The belt does need annual or so visual inspections and of course the vehicle needs timely (engine) "services" for the bits associated to and with the belt. Water pump may depend on which engine your car (and wife's) has, some are separate belt IIRC - the Dealership at the time of the belt rip-off also wanted my wife to have the water pump changed. At "services" and "maintenance" work Dealership(s) gave green/yellow/red tick box sheets of work advised or "required" one was in the many hundreds of pounds with tyres which were fine and 4mm of tread IIRC (I change at 2.25-3mm anyway) another where only the front brakes were a valid mention and another where my wife was told "the clutch pedal is heavy" which worried my wife as we'd had cars with clutch issues, I managed to rationalise wear against it being so worn it needing the (expensive) replacement they quoted for. "Services" are little more than an engine oil and filter change (which doesn't even service the engine let alone the rest of the car) and a look for more chargeable work, much of it possible very premature or dubious. A lady we know has a 2019 SEAT Leon and that had a simple and common to model coolant leak that took many months and visits to sort, it wasn't to do with the water pump and to be fair the water pump or it needing work on or around it was never mentioned by the garage (or the incompetence of not being able to locate and stop a common coolant leak for model). She has a s/h model seen as more sporty and they often attract first and subsequent owners that drive them in more spirited ways but some of those also don't bother as much as they should with servicing, maintenance and repairs and the extra need for such with harder driven cars, as a former VRS owner you'll be aware of this. Of course low mileage and use with labouring of the engine is the other side. Buying a s/h car off someone you know can be a nightmare if expectations of ownership are too high.

The robbing b*st*rds at VWŠkoda UK had it at 5 years or 50,000 miles unlike the rest of Europe at least, then in for 1st july 2023 they came clean and in line with Europe at least and put it to - "The new advice is to use the intervals recommended in ElsaPro for all engines. For some variants, this means that there is no service interval at all, with 'fitted for life' items that can be considered as 15 years or '18O,000 miles." CamBeltchangechange.pdf