Derbyshirebod

Thank you! Good call changing the bulbs has resolved the problem, Though at £9.60 for 6 bulbs from my local motor factors I thought that was a bit steep? Though they probably would have been cheaper had I bought them online. So none of the 6 I changed had blown, though yes there are two bulbs with broken filaments in the photo because I dropped them in the motor factor car park. So after changing the bulbs and turning the lights on the bulb warning light was still on! Tough then checking the warning message it was now saying check the rear number plate light bulbs! Turning the ignition off and on the warning light went out and hasn't come back on. Checking the rear number plate bulbs they are quite black so I'd better change them as well'

All the Gates belt kits I've looked at are quoting the same belt number KP25649XS-1. Maybe the difference in some of these belt kits are that some also include nuts & bolts? This belt kit states it fits CBBB CFGB engines amongst many other AUDI SEAT SKODA VOLKSWAGEN 1.6 2.0 TDI engines. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201953397280?epid=249317940&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item2f055c4a20:g:rOsAAOSwfC9XOf5B&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACoPYe5NmHp%2B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSjVt3vLKCbov98Z19qhuwY5uPqX6UnlA0AxI2qqRj42asJ67qcvL%2FyClA6w3bDTR0va8cY8l7gtv0NBdaQCLsu3hsG8trC3%2FhyEwveechvJykCvVyEmSWhc%2FWefuS7tEp2awGFvjVYBmUSCsrM%2FVcB1gB4QCBApzV1DnpeWLRceMOV2be0T19d6NNcH4cYa0ELxORB4vkAbcSnT0Ws%2BwrZIJfTvmnV3Q%2BocthNgnnDdhwvhJQX1%2FLCVZqS0ufbO7Qw6bUE9Ymyam2KL5TSZh8MAlKtTqu83yy%2FYagVTHZjFO5apk%2F7dckFpFRtJhGUvUaBMUz%2FPb3BAbw35Mk3YD95nEeKxKdgHU%2B8cL9xiHQTzPQ4dPK3SuPBNRpJs3XZOeZFT20vk0QuxQXToLj37WxTbPXI8G5Mp4DQYB%2B20IOTStHm%2BoQIW6gaFIfqnHxlb6cNJhHraaXfkfiac4DeroubfFNgcO%2BOIAgfKnYRVAQtREhuu%2BiqeAyRezYEel2LNBvhfS1ruePjOXi%2B1kiogvbXto208CIiKtmdFeJLvhvmMqkt%2BVBnXnCjCkyr7R8ve%2Beij0aVwGb1WEpW6XwpbYAdv6GkNFRqpXUIcZ3al99cGeuc4X5bZT4ZnDUx5EdEfibHZRf0IEMbRtw38HbWQ2JKjKTwEZHDysDrIkAVl%2BIAfyS6G7VI%2FIjRRxmpKangQ8Ya9tfZJTYh4Bwl8tYWghYeaeq5bgNWFEFvA1%2Bl9Zgw9cTo5mZ%2B%2F0isp%2FrvRmAVc8PZkkwbyoT5AAGIJ07s1aLK%2BxKdWDvEKqw%2BeS2WFtj6u6nSON8dI54PuElLx0fPUDazaAt1YO1O3GwOo5LnqByvQ%3D%3D|clp%3A2334524|tkp%3ABFBMjvaVsLtf

Yes same engine code as mine. Sounds like you've paid a reasonable price having it fitted.

If you disconnect the EGR it will throw up an error code and a dash warning light at the very least. If you're not loosing engine coolant why are you so concerned about the EGR cooler leaking? Though I would have thought you could Just disconnect the EGR cooler hoses and join them with a suitable elbow. Okay so the EGR will get hotter but until I bought my Skoda none of my other cars had an EGR that was cooled.

Yes I've used the bypass relay that came with the tow bar. I haven't changed any of the bulbs and all 6 side light bulbs are working on the car. Two of which are a combined brake & side light bulb. The brake, side lights and indicators were all working as they should on the trailer board. I don't know about the fog light as my trailer board hasn't got one. Though I think I may have scotch locked into the wrong wire for the fog light? Connecting to the feed instead of the common as I didn't fully understand the wiring instructions. I've now disconnected the reverse light, brake light and fog light feeds to the trailer bypass relay. I've left the indicator feeds to the bypass relay. I didn't connect either side light feed to the bypass relay as per the relay instructions. But the bulb warning still comes on for both rear lights. I guess I should now also disconnect the indicator feeds to the bypass relay and see if the warning goes off? After that the only thing I can think off is disconnecting the battery and see if that turns the warning off. The wiring colours change at the plug where the lights connect to the main loom. The two black wires you can see in the photo merge into one at the plug and join into 3 earth wires which are all joined at one point and split back into 3.

You also have to think about ET, wheel offset. I bought some aftermarket BBS alloys for my last car a Seat Toledo which also a 5 stud 112 PCD . I had to use 10mm spacers on the front wheels to stop the wheels catching the brake calipers !

Okay so the wheel center bore size that locates the wheel to the hubs is the same at Ø 55m. What you meant is there is a counter bore on the outside of the wheels so the cap outer diameter is larger than the center bore. i was thinking I'd have to be using some of these if I change my wheel size. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163723944215?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item261eb52117:g:KLUAAOSw6Ulcj4PK&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACsPYe5NmHp%2B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSLY2M1Gjmuwt9c03vWNfiRmwDXXFazv3Usr5ktFSJF1Fj4CLNfrwiFrVIHVxjq0Yv%2FQnsQ7M4iAeeFs9k5tChSF%2BsBxIlLCnPKkaCalm0a5HkrTsv%2Fig1qQA%2BK624L8F39pzs431xAwfBeReDm32ZFeHPGEHAeT2eylF7lk0rC8G2iYNwcuz6kCilLq2lOcjXhKZQe0%2Bf1V3pOhzds0bOeofGVDgpcMH4xspm6fTy0HnNYCGD7WrkVQoKPHLUmNMG6%2Fw7nkaDYsvkh5OXQwT%2FOaQ%2FnAJTaA82UiFKkmsvtWzCuGDwfIGeeakO2VmsrYk6Acclxg%2FaWaKK2542vNjlI5wAKokuGdrFdrdWXL8ioBBqtjOqlkwKUYt4PSJLH%2FkKM%2F7YJIo2XgLXQOmOfPRnDNhska7rTdRO%2BL6SnbmN1Ig%2FGQagjOakA0ChkHHkr%2FMndKOmbuFFAUjaKLfm9%2BvWPeef09zbvfvSaHabwyIeziL7MjRBu7wVAPyCVsbrSyAa69%2FiBz3atZKb0FacpHo6NS9UVHk8YtHQyWJ7juoSaGU%2BhVMJxG%2B%2FedMLFk%2FK10WgWbCu26a%2F%2BuzXoF3bvdL%2BqIohoEQ0R7Yl9AodL%2BVyBSy5zJh8DYs660dIOTVLwggkfT3h%2Bs8JUDl8BoJR816zcLmKEDYFc9KLAutfH%2BZVSSyf247pin7aZIAUp2SIBihDzDRHzXkmMUuEkuX%2BhDWAkthcJh1uYVwVZQI8d2XUv77JxCFiSxP2DFHpMiilzvyLkPkIF%2F2KJl29IBGUueLlajyzUouhIHf4Bl6GIB%2F%2B%2BYa3K9BP7slTsds3wjd7d7426MsEFGaDQZsSi7VxwmApT42ACGpG38BcyWuEnuNryxM%3D|clp%3A2334524|tkp%3ABFBM5O3Jmblf

I fitted a tow bar to my Superb last weekend before I started I already one warning light for a front fog lamp bulb. The trailer lights were working as they should so I assumed everything was okay. On replacing the front fog lamp bulb that error light went out. But when I put the dipped lights on I found the bulb warning light came back on, when scrolling the wheel on the steering wheel found I had two warning messages for either rear tail light. I've disconnected all the tow bar wiring except for the indicators. The warning lights still remain on? How do I cancel them? I've used VCDS but that's not coming up with any errors or error codes?

So you've also had to buy wheel spigot rings ?

Did you buy new Skoda centre caps or take them of the 18" wheels?

I bet the 205/55/162 tyres are cheaper than the 18". Very popular size one of sons has that size Ford Focus and the other has the same size on his BMW 320d. I had the same size on my Seat Toledo.

Are the rolling diameters pretty much the same between the 18" and 16" tyres? Or do you need to use something like VCDS to updated the tyre diameter in the ECU?

I've recently bought a Gates cam belt and water pump kit off Ebay I only paid £70. It looks like a genuine gates box to me https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353692849061 Just a case of having the time to do it now. The Skoda cam belt service interval seems rather on the high side to me?

Okay so I guess to get the Bolero to work with Bluetooth in my Superb I will have to buy a Bluetooth unit and wiring kit. https://www.cars-equipment.com/en/shop/bluetooth-kits-10/oem-1k8035730d-9w2-bluetooth-handsfree-kit/

I've recently bought a 2012 Superb with a Bolero head unit expecting it to have Bluetooth as I was wanting to have hands free telephone. There doesn't appear to be a 3C8035730A Bluetooth unit under the seat? and the only wiring I can see goes into the seat. Is it possible to buy a 2nd hand Bluetooth unit and install it under the seat not that I can see a spare connector or wiring? and will I have to also install a microphone as I can't see one? I don't really want to spend £100 on a Bluetooth unit I can't connect to the car! Or would it just be easier to change the head unit with integrated Bluetooth and microphone? I've been told that this unit will probably fit my Superb and as it has an auxiliary socket I can connect it to my phone and use Google Maps. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203182795555

Yes I have seen that post. Though would deleting the EGR be a better long term solution? I've had so many cars over the years that have had EGR related issues which to me seems to defeat the whole reason for having them in the 1st place if your engine isn't running as well and cleanly as it could.

I recently cleaned my throttle body as it was throwing up the same error code and causing a lumpy tick over. I used a can of carburettor cleaner old tooth brush, Scotch Brite and a small plastic scraper. Took me around an hour to remove clean and refit the throttle body. The lumpy tick over didn't go away for a few days until the throttle body had re-calibrated itself. Had I used VCDS and re-coded the throttle body after refitting the throttle body it would have restored the factory settings and stopped the lumpy tick over straight away. But I didn't realise that at the time.

I recently bought a high mileage MK2 Superb 2012 Diesel Estate 2.0 TDI 4x4 AWD II 3T5 1968cc 170HP with 180,000 miles on the clock. The seller was asking £1800 and when I asked why it was so cheap he said there was an engine fault but didn't seem to know what the issue was? I suspect he thought it was probably going to be an expensive repair? It was! I paid £1650 and when I got home I used VCDS and found there were no error codes, so they must have been cleared before I bought the car. For the 1st week the car drove well and I was driving it 100 miles a day there were no warning lights on the dash and the car drove well other than a lumpy tick over. After this short honey moon period the little coil symbol and engine management lights started coming on the dashboard and the engine would go into limp mode, until you stopped and restarted the engine and the car was then okay for the next 50 miles or so. The frequency of this happening quickly increased and the distance you could drive quickly reduced! Using VCDS again I got two error codes P1065 Fuel Pressure Regulation Discrepancy and P0121 Throttle Position Sensor Implausible Signal. Reading up a common reason for low fuel rail pressure can be a faulty fuel pressure regulator which is mounted on the high pressure fuel pump. A cheap £18 pattern fuel pressure sensor and a new fuel filter made no difference. There was no evidence of metal shavings in the fuel filter or in the pump when I changed the FPR, caused when the bearings in the pump start to break up and also causes low fuel pressure. Another cause of low fuel pressure can be leaking fuel injectors. It was easier to start by removing the fuel injectors than the fuel pump and have them tested at diesel specialist. £120 later I was told that all the injectors had failed and all had a massive leak backs. So this is what was causing the low fuel rail pressure. £840 later and a set of remanufactured injectors and the low fuel pressure issue was resolved and all the warning lights were out. However the tick over was still quite lumpy and the error code P0121 Throttle Position Sensor was back. So I took the throttle body off to find it was filthy! Though hardly surprising with such a high mileage. I used a plastic scraper an old tooth brush a piece of Scotch Brite and almost a whole can of carburettor cleaner and cleaned the throttle body. The lumpy tick over was still there for a few more days until it settled down and the fault code has not returned. Reading up some more what I should have probably done was use VCDS and re-coded the throttle body to return it to its factory settings to stop the lumpy tick over straight away. The throttle body self calibrates to compensate for any slight variations which it must have done when it wasn’t closing properly before I’d cleaned it, and now its calibrated itself back to where it should be.

Okay thank you. I have seen online both sizes as being listed fitting my Superb MK2 4x4 so wondered. Guess I'll have to measure my damper diameter.

So can you upgrade from 50mm diameter to 55mm diameter shock absorbers ?