Derbyshirebod

I suppose it's not an unreasonable request though if it means a garage ordering parts from a supplier they don't use they might think you're being a PITA. So I guess the other option is would they mind fitting customer sourced parts? Though again then some garages then might start arguing about warranty if a part fails and they havent supplied it? I'm a tight arse and always do my own repairs and will continue to do so till I'm too old to crawl round the floor fixing cars, by which time I'll probably be no longer driving :-)

Wow I wish I could get paid that much for undoing 4 nuts and replacing 2 drop links and fitting four new nyloc nuts! Okay the garages have to make a living but having a lift you wouldn't even have to take the front wheels off it probably wouldn't even take half an hour to change the drop links. Okay by the time they've driven the car in and out of the workshop and doing the paperwork I would think an hours labour and the cost of parts wouldn't be unreasonable. £173 seems a bit steep to me though maybe that's the difference between OEM and pattern parts? I personally don't have an issue with using pattern parts and quite often OEM and pattern parts are made by the same manufacturer they just aren't allowed to use OEM logos or part numbers.

This style of anti roll bar drop links wear out for a pass time, they have a fairly hard life when you think of the force that's being constantly applied through them. They are common across the VW, Skoda range. My sons both owned Seat Ibizas and we had to change them on both vehicles. While working on my MK2 Superb front suspension I've noticed some slight play in the ball joint on one of my drop links so will change both of them and have ordered 2 online for £13.25. They are the same as fitted to the Octavia & Yeti. Checking the online MOT history of my car I can see that there have been several advisories over the years for worn drop links. Not surprising really as the car has done 180,000 🙂

Have you looked inside the petrol filler cap to see what the different wheel/tyre fitment sizes are? I'd then look on Ebay or Facebook Marketplace for a set of wheels.

If the DPF is blocked then there should be a warning light on the dashboard telling you? If it was mine I'd scan the car for error codes instead of trying to second guess what the problem is. If there is a turbo issue then you should get an under boost or even over boost error code. If there is an issue with the fuel system then you should also get an error code.

Does it support the factory fitted front and rear parking sensor system? I can't see that it mentions that?

I bought my 4x4 SE assuming it had blue tooth as standard as there is a phone button on the Bolero head unit but it hasn't as there is no blue tooth unit under the drivers seat. 😞 I think an aftermarket head unit is probably going to be the quickest way to get Bluetooth & Sat Nav. A head unit with a with an auxiliary socket so I can connect my phone and use google maps? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143727992879 I assume means Standard Equipment?

I'd use a scan tool and see if there are any error codes before trying to second guess what might be wrong.

😅 I'm thinking about going from 17" wheels to 16" so may well have to if I buy Seat, VW or Audi wheels :-)

I last drove my car before I started working on it last Wednesday. I have the car half in the garage on axle stands. On realising I needed to order some more parts and not needing to use the car till next week I'd decided to leave it till all the parts I needed arrived. The decision also in part to the weather turning and we've had a fair bit of snow and now rain, It's not been nice out there! Unfortunately the orientation of my garage door is in the direction of the prevailing weather! My brake disks were relativity nice and clean look how rusty they have become in a 4 days!

😅 This originally started off as an oil change, cam belt and water pump change last Wednesday, then the weather turned and we've had a fair bit of snow. So I decided to leave the car when I realised I also needed a new auxiliary belt pulley and also ordered a new spring for the O/S front and do it all at once. As I'm not needing to use the car every day at present Yes I agree it is good practice to do both sides with matching springs. I spent several hours online it was a right headache trawling through countless listings to find which road springs were the correct ones for my car. There is quite a variation in price, I paid almost £28 for one spring and was unsure if it was the correct one? Now I know what the correct part number is I see I could have bought one for under £17.10 ! From the same manufacturer so I've ordered a 2nd one. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303720719228?epid=18034992792&hash=item46b72a637c:g:EQkAAOSw0ltfgReB My last fixed term contract ended in October and thanks to covid aerospace engineering has been on its arse and I've not worked since then so funds are getting tight!

The disks in your photos can't have been replaced before you bought it I doubt they would deteriorate that quickly from new. Though however it's possible for them to get that bad if they were already old disks with the low mileage you've done in 2 months and the car has been stood outside in the driving rain. My partner has recently changed her 2014 F Type Jaguar it had only done 30K and all 4 disks were quite grooved when you ran your finger nails across the disk faces. During lock down she was working from home and the car wouldn't move for a month or more! You could see all 4 disks through the wheel spokes were covered in surface rust most of which did come after a run. But the rust that then was cleaned of by the pads was sticking to the pads and causing uneven wear.

Many thanks Carlston, yes my car does have a manual gearbox.

How does cast iron delaminate ??? That's just the rust breaking up. I've skimmed discs with a worse surface than that. I resurfaced all 4 discs on my 2004 Seat Toledo and just changed the brake pads when I bought it and got another 30,000 out of them. I do high miles with little town driving. I'm an extreme tight arse and have a lathe. The 2nd time replaced all 4 disks and pads for £65 which was a dam sight quicker than re-surfacing.

That's a new one on me! Disks delaminating! Seriously dangerous if that were the case! Having a rusty lip on the outer brake disks diameters and the rust peeling away isn't unusual as there is nothing contacting the surfaces to keep them clean. In one of the photos the fact there is rust on the outer disc face and the inner is clean means there has been uneven pad wear so full contact between disk pad and brake disk isn't happening. So having vibration under braking is likely. Though as someone else as mentioned strange that the vibration continues after braking, maybe you have sticking brake pads or a faulty caliper? Does the car pull to one side during braking? If the car isn't being used much or stood for sometime on a forecourt then it won't be unusual for the disks to rust. A few drops of water on a clean shinny cast iron surface and it's not long before the surface will turn brown as it starts to rust. This isn't much of an issue on a car that's being regularly used as any light surface rust is soon rubbed away by the brake pads. The longer a car stands and the heavier the build of rust build becomes especially if the car is at the mercy of the elements. Heavy rust will build up and clog the brake pads surfaces leading to scoring and uneven pad wear. Cast iron is a very good material for using on braking surfaces as it's relatively cheap and has a good coefficient of friction which you want in a braking system, but unlike stainless steel it rusts easily. I'm not sure you'll get very far with Arnold Clark depending on how long you've had the car? Though if you don't ask you won't know. I agree with the others the brake pads and disks want replacing though if you can do it yourself it doesn't have to be too expensive. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271192951224?hash=item3f245c09b8:g:AXUAAOSwqCdexQsm

2012 Superb MK2 4x4 170bhp CFGB One of my front springs has broken and I've bought a replacement online which arrived today. I was asked for my vehicle registration when I placed the order. The spring I've received has the Part number NAPA NCS1114 on checking this doesn't fit my car and is for standard suspension? What is the difference between sports and standard suspension? My car has the larger 55mm diameter front shock absorbers. The wire diameter from my broken spring is the same as the replacement and the top coil is the same. I'm a bit loathed to take the old spring off to find the new one doesn't fit as I can still use the car with care. Is the front suspension really going to be different for the 2.0 170bhp CFGB AWD and FWD? Suspension: For Vehicles Without Sports Suspension Skoda Superb 2012 Diesel Estate 2.0 TDI FWD II 3T5 1968cc 125KW 170HP CBBB;CFGB This item fits 1 version(s) of the Skoda Superb 2012 Diesel Estate 2.0 TDI FWD II 3T5 1968cc 125KW 170HP CBBB;CFGB: This item doesn't fit this Skoda Superb 2012 Diesel Estate 2.0 TDI 4x4 AWD II 3T5 1968cc 125KW 170HP CBBB;CFGB.

Yes you are right, I measured one of my front shock absorbers and they are 55mm

Yes I've done that in the past but not my preferd solution for the reason you've given. For the sakes of of around £6 for a couple of transponder chips. The key number is 3T0 837 202 H on all 3 flip keys I have. I just want the correct transponder chips. There seems to be quite a few different ID48 transponder chips.

I only got one key with my 2012 Superb. I've bought a couple of 2nd hand flip key fobs and had new blades cut. I've programed the fobs to the car with VCDS so I have keyless entry. I've removed the original transponder chips from the PCB's but not sure which glass transponder chips I need to replace the originals with? To clone my existing key, ID48 TP24 ? Though I'm not sure if this the correct chip? Depending on where I look they are described as being for cars pre dating mine.

Side panel on you Yeti? it's a PITA taking the side panel off on the Superb as well ! You cant lift the panel without taking loads of other trim of 1st 😞

Maybe a dodgy scotch lock connection ?

Yes these new bypass relays are a far superior way of connecting the tow bar wiring to the car. This the 1st time I've used one, the trailer bulbs are brighter and don't dim when more than one function is being used. I've checked and I don't think any of the light unit harness wiring insulation is brittle or cracking 🤔

I didn't make any connections to the light assembly harnesses as you say those wires look some what on the delicate side. I used the scotch locks which came with the tow bar and made my connections to the main loom inside the car on the passenger side to the heavier wires. The tow bar wiring was relatively straight forward once I'd identified which wires to connect to. I had to take an extension wire from the drivers side of the car from the OS indicator. Instead of running a +12V wire from the cars fuse box / battery to the bypass relay as suggested in the fitting instructions I scotch locked into the +12V feed to the auxiliary socket in the boot. I suppose the new tow bar wiring connections to the side light circuit must have affected the balance of the load and caused the dash board warning light to be activated ?

Yes indeed!😊 Though I could have saved myself a load of grief had I changed the tail light bulbs in the 1st place! Instead of assuming I'd made a mistake with the tow bar wiring and stripped the boot lining out for a 2nd time and disconnected all the connections I made.

On checking you are indeed correct! 8 and not 6 as I'd thougth. I had not checked very well and didn't realise that the rear fog light bulbs were also dual function. All 8 bulbs were working correctly. Though I only change the 6 bulbs I mentioned in my last post, which has turned the warning light off. I've also disconnected all the tow-bar wiring, which I now need to re-connect, which I had connected correctly.