Derbyshirebod

I had the same issue a couple years ago with a 1.9TDi PD engine in a 2004 Seat Toledo though mine failed all together so the dash board temperature dial wasn't working at all and was struggling to start from cold. This sensor doesn't just feed the temperature dial it's also used by the cold start circuit to make the engine run rich at start up from cold. IIRC there are 3 or 4 wires that connect to the temperature sensor. I just bought a cheap pattern sensor off Ebay and the temperature dial then read slightly less than before. I put this down to using a cheap poorly calibrated part? I had no further problem for about 3 years before I scrapped the car with over 300,000 miles on the clock!

Is there power to the (trunk) boot lock? Could be a faulty lock or damaged wire? Is there power to the boot light? Might be a blown bulb?

Have you checked the fuses?

Hello and welcome to the forum. Sorry I don't understand what you are trying to say? "twindoor opening" what does that mean? "vacum engine not working" what does that mean? can you try and say this some other way?

Sorry if this has been asked before but searching didn't return anything similar. I assume if this happening to my Superb then other Skoda owners must have had this happen? When the main light switch is set to any of the 3 on positions the side light icon flashes (green not white as in the video shows). Do these illuminated switches have bulbs or LED's? If it's the latter I guess a 2nd hand switch will be the cheapest solution? 20220128_153549.mp4

Thanks Gav, yes I've seen some of those posts already. Though maybe I haven't got the hang of the search function? As it never seems very easy to find hings I'm looking for? I can't believe only having one broken wire in the drivers door loom that I've lost all the functions on the N/S doors? So maybe there are more damaged wires? As DEL8OY has previously mentioned he's found broken wires where the insulation is still intact IIRC. I've now noticed that the insulation is quite brittle on most of the front door loom wires and found a crack in the insulation on one wire in the loom to the front N/S passenger door. The rear door wires are probably not far behind though guess that they are likely to last longer as I rarely have passengers so the wires aren't being made to flex as often. I'll buy several meters of the correct wire gauge and these type of connectors from this supplier who is local to me though aren't open till Monday otherwise I'd have gone today. https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-60-terminals/c-205-heat-shrink-pre-insulated-terminals/p-510-red-heat-shrink-solder-butt-connector , https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-60-terminals/c-205-heat-shrink-pre-insulated-terminals/p-511-blue-heat-shrink-solder-butt-connector I'll replace all the wires in the front door looms for new more flexible wire. I've seen the kits on Ebay but at around £30 a door is more than I want to pay and I've currently got the time as I'm between jobs. I appreciate for a garage to source a repair kit as it's probably the quickest cheapest option for the customer.

There is an automotive wiring supplier fairly local to me where I can buy everything I need to repair the loom. The only issue I've got at the moment is removing the door card.

From what I've read they are very prone to failing! I believe my car has had the injectors changed before as there are chatter marks on the injector sealing faces down inside the cylinder head. It took me ages to polish the marks away. I bought my car cheap with a declared unknown engine problem It was the injectors. As I'm wanting to keep the car I decided not to gamble with trying 2nd injectors as they fail regularly there are a lot used ones out there and i wonder how long they will last ?

I don't know if your engine has the same injectors as mine? I exchange mine at my local diesel specialist as they have to send them away to be re-manufactured, cost me £840!

Yes that's a possibility. But to find that out you'll have to take them off the vehicle and have them tested. I got charged £25 per injector and then I had to change all 4 on mine not cheap ! Though my issue wasn't over fueling. The injectors were leaking back and causing low fuel rail pressure. Maybe this issue existed before you changed the timing belt and hadn't noticed? You only started looking after you'd changed the cam belt?

I know it's a PITA but I'd be inclined to manually check the belt timing again. When the fuel pumps fail the bearings start to break up and you will find metal filling in the fuel filter and also in the top of the fuel pump if you remove the fuel pressure regulator in the top of the fuel pump. Though I would have thought a failing pump would cause low fuel pressure problems ?

Not that I'm aware of ? I had no problems after changing my belt. If there was an issue with the fuel pump then I would have thought VCDS would have given an error code for fuel rail pressure ? White smoke does sounds like it's over fueling ?

It's difficult to see the fuel pump timing slot with the belt in-place. The reason for undoing the cam shaft and pump pulley bolts are so that the cam belt tension can be set correctly between the two pulleys and all the belt slack can be taken up by timing belt tensioner. The cam shaft and fuel pumps should be locked with the timing pins so their timing remains correct. I don't see how changing the cam belt can have affected the ECU fuel pump settings ?

The fuel pump has to be timed. It's not as critical as the crank and cam shaft timing but it has to be fairly close. I'll see if I can find the Autodata print out I used.

Does engine looks the same as mine?

I have just changed the timing belt on my 2.0 CFGB 170bhp engine which has to have the fuel pump timed which is on the far right of the photo. It uses the same timing belt kit listed as the CLJA engine so I assume you have a belt driven fuel pump?

What your asking to do is re-map the engine I don't believe you can do this with VCDS. Your engine code is CLJA 140bhp ? Did you time the fuel pump correctly? You didn't have this problem before changing the timing belt ?

Good call DEL80Y👍 I found 1 broken wire to the drivers door. Also found one with a cut/cracked insulation. Not to say there aren't anymore? I couldn't see any other damaged wires on the other doors. I assume the rubber grommet/sleeve pulls inside the door? Which should make access easier to solder any broken wires. I started taking the drivers door card off, could only see 2 torx headed screws along the bottom edge. It started to get dark and the door card was taking some prising off so sooner than break something left it for today.

I got a discount code so it cost me £23.40 for an online manual. Though not sure I'm over impressed as the wiring is for LHD !

The offside doors work fine. None of the passenger doors functions work, they won't lock and the windows won't come down, The OS mirror won't adjust or fold in. None of the courtesy lights come on and neither do any of the door switches illuminate. With all the passenger door circuits not working I've assumed it must be a common earth? But where to find it? There were no relevant error codes when I used VDCS yesterday.

Is there any other place other than irWin Online I can get wiring diagrams for a Superb MK2 ? Every time I try and buy an hours printing I get an error message I've also tried using a different browser. All the electrics have failed to my 2 passenger doors Mirror, door locks, windows so I'm assuming that there must be a common earth for all these functions but where is it?

Yes probably because everything expands when it's warm. Sounds like a brake issue to me,

So how do you know the brakes aren't binding or the caliper sticking? I had a work colleague who recently experienced the same issue with a VW Touran. He made the assumption the brakes werent binding because the car wasn't pulling to the side with the sticking caliper. You've had the caliper off and pushed the piston back in?

I don't think there is anything in this log referring to the wipers? Log-ND12 OLC-TMBMF73T7D9008712-294050km-182714mi-0001.txt