kodiaqsportline

Fuse 53 is the heated screen. I'm only guessing here but I'd have thought it unusual for the switch light to work if the fuse was blown. Sounds like a faulty element to me, but as I say, that's only a pure guess.

Not good when you have a problem, especially with a new car, but you're not seriously suggesting you can't use the car because the aircon isn't working? As I recall, here in the UK, aircon never really became an option until the early 90's on most cars - it was reserved for the very high end cars. Those of us who drove in the 80's seemed to cope. It wasn't until the mid-90's until air-con became std fit on most mid-range models and above. Aircon helped demist the screen quicker but it's certainly not an essential. Use google to find out various methods to demist your screen but the easiest of all is: 1: Cleaning your windscreen with a goodcleaner or simple vinegar and water ( and dry it with newspaper afterwards ) will help it from misting in the first place. 2: If it's misty, turn your blower on cold when you first start the car, let it run for a minute, then gradually turn up the temp.

In a nutshell that's excellent advice from Silver1011. This will sound so weird, but if they can change the belt at the same time, you just may have saved you many hundreds of pounds within the next few years. You'd be covered by consumer law to reject the car but if it proves it's just the water pump then as I say, look at it as a money saving. Used cars from every manufacturer typically undergo a pre sale check but unless there were some weird noises or the engine was running at a high temperate, there would be no indication the water pump was about to fail. You can't blame the garage if that turns out to be the only problem. "However, I am now worried about the safety and overall reliability of this car". Even if this issue is fixed, I will constantly be thinking when will it break again/how long until the next problem arises? That's certainly not how I'd look at the situation but If that really is your mindset, then simply contact the supplying dealer a.s.a.p. and let them know you're rejecting the car.

Just reading above replies - the usual drivel. Can sum it up very simply. Lets take a bog std perfectly legal UK car like erm, a Kodiaq. ( It should be noted that our friends Root and JR own neither ). When autohold is applied, and you stop at the lights then the brake lights come on and... It's perfectly legal. We know the brake lights come on but most owners or drivers haven't a scooby. There is no indication whatsoever in the car that the brake lights are on. It's perfectly legal for manufacturers to operate autohold in this way. In his lengthy reply ( as per usual ) you won't find any reference to being blinded by the lights. That's because they don't blind you. I've been driving for 50 years and have yet to experience being blinded by brake lights whilst sitting in traffic. I ask again, who in their right mind sits staring at the lights in front of you when stationary? He then introduces FOG lights? Who mentioned fog lights? that has nothing to do with autohold. It's illegal to use fog lights when the visibility is good. When you switch on fog lights, unlike the brake, there's a light on the dash to lets you know the fogs are on. If you see the fogs are on when the weather improves you can then switch them off. I'll say it again, there is no indication whatsoever on the dash that the brake lights are running so how does the driver know if they are on? As for JR and his eye drops or eye problems. You should NOT be driving a car if you have issues with your eyes because that's illegal. Case in question - if a car happens to brake when slowing down, you'll be blinded by that too. So what's your solution - don't use brakes at anytime just incase Mr Magoo is driving the car behind? Presumably you'll be blinded by oncoming traffic with bright LEDs too with those eye issues? I mean if you're blinded by head torches... Some people are determined to lecture others that they know better than anyone else. Neither of the above replies hold any ground - you're both arguing for arguments sake and obviously never thought this through. Playing devils advocate, lets say the lights did blind you. So what? You're in stationary traffic - you're going nowhere - so what's the problem?

+1. It's a myth quoted by people who I can only assume never drive. Since reading this some years ago on forums, I keep looking out for this and yes many cars sit stationary with their brake lights on. Am I blinded? Not in the slightest. Anyway, who are these people who sit in traffic and look directly ahead at all times? When I sit in traffic, constantly staring at the rear lights of the car in front is the last place I'm looking. As for those behind me? Couldn't give a monkeys. If they have a problem, dial 101 and report me to the police, who in turn will, in not so many words, tell them to get a life.

If Autohold function is activated then forget all about the electronic parking brake - that's how it was designed. Easy peasy. It ( parking brake ) auto releases when you drive off and engages when you open the drivers door. Everything else in between is controlled automatically. There's nothing else to worry about. With the manual it sounds like you're confused with autohold and anti-roll back - it's a common mistake. Again no need to worry with auto.

I might be wrong but I thought the opposite - they tell you when a seat belt isn't in use. The point is you know when someone in the rear doesn't have their belt buckled. And it's law - all new cars must be fitted with some sort of seatbelt indication. Only the front seats have sensors, the rears do not. Article

Just barging in on this thread ( bored with eating and watch Xmas TV all day 😂 ) so tell me to sod off as I no longer own a Octavia. Root is correct. Just to clear up a few errors from elsewhere in this thread 1. Under PCP the car belongs to the finance company ( usually VW Finance ). It only becomes yours if / when you make that large final payment. Under PCP you are the registered keeper, not the registered owner. 2. You MUST inform both finance company ( the owner ) and the supplying dealer that you are rejecting the car. Your contract is with both of them. 3. It was under the old system you had to give the supplying dealer a chance to rectify the problem but laws have since changed. Note - the problem has to be serious, you can't reject if it's a niggle or minor inconvenience. A faulty gearbox that needs replaced is about as major a problem as you can get. (a) Within the first month of delivery, you can reject a product if it proves to be faulty - end of. No attempts to fix it required ( although common courtesy would say give them a chance ) (b) From month 2 to month 6 if a fault develops the onus is on the supplier to prove the fault was not present at time of delivery. Again you give supplier a chance or two to rectify problem, but if it persists you can reject. (c) From month 6 to month 12 the onus is on buyer to prove the fault was present at time of delivery. This is potentially more tricky and it's unusual for a car to be rejected after 6mth. (d) After 12mth? You've more chance of winning the lottery than rejecting the car 😂 My advice to the OP is that if what you say is accurate i.e. you reported the fault within the first month since delivery, then I wouldn't expect there to be any issues rejecting the car. If it was over the month since they were informed, that they've confirmed there's a problem and it can't be rectify within a reasonable timescale, it's a simple rejection. ( Some dealers may try and plead that because they gave you alternative transport i.e. courtesy car, that they are entitled to repair the faulty car - it's not true, it's not what the law says. don't let them away with it if they try that ). Notify both the finance company and the supplying dealership you're rejecting the car. Under law, both are equally liable for the car you're paying for. And last two very important things to remember that almost everyone gets wrong. THIS HAS NOTHING WHATSOEVER TO DO WITH SKODA UK so don't blame them. (There's nothing they can do anyway). Your contract is only with the supplying dealer and finance company. And whatever you do, DO NOT STOP YOUR MONTHLY PCP PAYMENTS until told to do so. Hope that helps. PS - If I were in your situation? Rejection should be easy but what's your alternative? As delivery times on new cars are all over the place right now, can you purchase a car in stock?

Such a wierd comment. Shouldn't you be the one offering an apology rather than the person accepting it? Having read this thread again, I'm at a loss who those insulting numpties were.

This thread seems to be going the way of many others. The OP hasn't posted for a couple of days but already the bickering about nothing has taken over. Taken over by someone who has 63000 posts and another 6700 posts. I'd have thought for someone who's advising other on MOT failures would have checked their sidelight was working before putting their own car thru an MOT. ( there's bound to be an excuse ) You've posted some sort of official document that says " Your vehicle will fail if the test result is 'dangerous' or 'major'. It then goes on to say " Driving away a vehicle that's failed: You can take your vehicle away if your current MOT is still valid and no dangerous problems were listed. In other words, if your car fails an MOT and it's only failures are listed as 'major', then as long as the current MOT is still valid, the car can be driven - i.e. it's roadworthy. So after my reply above, why did you write "An MOT failure is a failure, Vehicle un-roadworthy"? Like JR with his invaluable advice about certification in France, you seem to be posting for the sake of posting and offering the OP ( and every other reader ) nothing. No wonder you two have so many postings. My advice to the OP would be to take everything he reads ( including my posts ) with a pinch of salt because it really is such a grey area. The only people you should listen to 100% are your insurer and the police. Everyone else can chuck in their interpretation but it matters not a jot. And even if that advice is wrong, what the person who failed your car has to say is crucial because that could be your defence - or your downfall. It's defo worth getting everything that's said in writing.

Given the OP didn't know what BT was then my thought process is keep it as simple as possible. With all the best will in the world, BT isn't the most reliable medium and I fear the OP may end up visiting these pages more often than he'd like asking "what's wrong, my BT connection doesn't appear to work". With USB you're effectively hard wiring the product so in theory it should be trouble free.

As I said, the 2nd ref one on Amazon ( similar to Connects2 ) has a note beside it on Car Audio Direct to say it doesn't with with VW Group cars, as well as a long list of other car manufaturers. The first one I referenced has a reply from one customer to say that it doesn't work on his Renault but it does work on his 20 reg SEAT Ibiza. If true then there's a possibility that one could work for you.

Ok... Your details say you have a 2014 Yeti 1.2 Given you've posted on the karoq forum, I'm assuming you have a Karoq. What age is your karoq and the USB socket, is it type-A ( thats the larger rectangular type ) or is it type-C ( two smaller phone-like size sockets sitting side-by-side ) EDIT - scrub that - just checked online, the Connect2 isn't compatible with any VW Group cars.

Best solution is to convert music to USB stick but if you want easy CD solution then Amazon USB CD player or Alternative Amazon CD player The latter player is just another branded version of the Connects2 player you can buy for £100 odd quid. The Connects2 comes with a mounting bracket - that's the only difference. It should work easy enough. If it does then what you could do is buy a USB extention cable and mount the unit anywhere in your car. ( couple of pieces of velco and mount on carpet under your seat for instance.

Not 100% accurate. I think I'm right in saying: If the MOT failure was on the same day as the certificate expired then legally, the car can be driven on the road as long as it's going for repair and/or to get another MOT. If the MOT failure was before the previous certificate expired then you can drive on the road up to that date AS LONG AS YOUR CAR IS ROADWORTHY. Bit of a grey area that last one... can it be roadworthy if it failed? As others have said, it's important to know why it failed. It could well have failed just because of that missing cap! I'm struggling to understand how someone can say brake fluid is contaminated without at least testing it - it's a simple procedure, they should have done this to confirm their suspicion. Disc could well be corroded, doubtful their explanation is the reason tho. I'd take my car for a free brake check / quote elsewhere. Leaving brake lines to one side, fluid change will be around £50 on avg and as it's best practice to change both discs and pads on the same axle. It's really important to shop around for prices because they will vary all over the place. Prob looking at £250 - £300 to have them replaced.

Funny, I had same this morning -re software Update. I let the update run but when it rebooted, ystem kept giving various error messages. Apps such as SHOP were blank. Gave it 15mins, tried again all OK. I guess once rebooted, the most recent update has processes still running in the background. Everything back to normal now. Well that puts paid to whoever implied in another thread that after the 1st year, you need to pay for Skoda Connect services to receive updates - I no longer have Skoda Connect paid service

We know wireless auto works straight out the box - there's no additional work needed to enable it. No matter what problem someone is faced with, if you're stuck seeking a solution then always go back to basics. If you've been trying to make the thing work, who knows what options have been selected or sometimes software gets it's knickers in a twist. ( how many times have you been told to switch a smartTV or BT box or whatever off at the wall socket, wait 5 secs and then switch on again? ). 30 years in IT and the advice is still the same - when anyone has a problem we can't understand " press control / Alt / delete". Can't answer your 2nd question other than say my system ( as I suspect every other owner ) has undergone software updates and wireless AA still works so can't think of any reason why yours would be any different. Please remeber tho, the possibility does exist where your system may well be faulty. Is there nobody else in your area with a MY 21 onwards Karoq or Kodiaq? Worth asking them if they use wireless AA and see if they can hook their phone up to your system - there's no substitute for experience.

Yes, the two Keyfob routine is Skoda Connect related. My Connect has just expired and the headunit want's me to go thru the two-key routine again to setup something else which I haven't bothered to do. Despite that, wireless AA still works fine. It would depend on your dealer. You shouldn't need their intervention and if my experience is anything to go by, they're as clueless as anyone. Normally you'd go to the senior tech or 'product specialist' for assistance but this is the only time I'd advise seeking out the acne faced youth on work experience for help.

I'm sure many of us old timers will agree you should never rely on the accuracy of printed information from VW Group. Just wait until you come to updating the software on your system or finding out about service schedules. Much of the information is either lost in translation or the author has been overzealous with cut 'n paste. That said, I've never noticed that description before. It's not exclusive to the Karoq Edition ( Columbus ) tho, it's true for SE-L with Amundsen headunit too. And if you configure a Kodiaq, it says exactly the same - wireless for Carplay, wired for Android. Now that I know for a fact is *******s. If you configure an Octavia it says the same. My guess is this was written before Android 10 came along. And when they checked your VIN, customer services could well have been reading off the same hymn sheet. is there nobody you know with another Android 11 phone ( or a Samsung running Android 10? ). Reset your head unit to factory default and Wireless AA should automatically see the phone. In fact if memory serves me correct, when I first used my Motorola phone with my new car, I seem to recall the Skoda MIB3 system saying wireless connection failed - that was the hint for me the car actually had wireless. I defo knew the Motorola wasn't wireless capable so I bought a Samsung running Android 10 ( which I knew could ) and hey presto, connected first time at asking.

I'd have thought someone in the dealership would have a phone capable of connecting wirelessly to Android Auto. It's only take a few seconds to test if the headunit is working or not. All Samsung phones running Android 10 or later are supposed to be able to run AA wireless. ( A few high end Samsung phones running earlier versions of Android would also work ) Who the hell am I to question Skoda - if they are saying your VIN indicates you don't have wireless AA then you don't have it, end of. All I will say is that if you defo have an MIB3 system ( i.e. you don't have any SD Card slot in the glovebox and you have the newer USB-C type connectors rather than the older USB-A ), then that's the first I've heard of this. I'd have put money on you having wireless Android Auto if you have MIB3. The biggest problem is the lack of information from Skoda. There are many owners ( and Skoda employees ) who just don't understand. Unless there's an inherent problem with the headunit, Karoq MIB3 systems should connect wirelessly to AA, MIB2 systems will not. There are plenty of examples in the various forums where people were trying to either connect an incompatible phone or they had a MIB2 headunit. Agreed, MIB3 has it's problems but you can't blame the software for this one. I'd also recommend paying attention to those who actually own a Karoq ( or Kodiaq which is basically the same ) rather than someone who gets their info via google search or has a completely different headunit.

With all due respect, why are people hijacking this thread to voice general opinions? If you want to talk about a C-Max and Mini's then shouldn't that be on another thread, preferably in the General section? This thread is discussing quality on the new Kodiaq, try keeping on subject.

I have a year old MY21 Sportline and the MY22 Sportline which was sitting in the showroom the other week had exactly the same door card, albeit with the addition of a mid-range speaker. We also have a MY20 Karoq which had the same steering wheel as my previous MY17 Octavia which was the same as the original Kodiaq's, and IMO the new steering wheels are of much higher quality. There's very little difference between MY17 and MY22, but the differences I see are higher quality. Canton for instance is of better quality than the earlier installations. Unlike VW and Audi who IMO have both suffered a significant downgrade in both materials and their implementation. Just my honest opinion. As Yogi-Bear said, things like software has defo taken a turn for the worse, but but that's true of any tech whether it be your mobile phone, TV or even washing machine, all the latest tech suffers. ( all brought around no doubt by the marketing depts facination with answering questions customers never asked ).

Well unless you're going to be specific then yes, it's your imagination.

This is such a crazy thread. Skoda is causing a lot of headaches? That's because the situation the world currently finds itself in is causing Skoda ( and every other manufacturer ) lots of headaches. When someone asks Skoda " when will my car be delivered " and Skoda replies " I don't know ", then people come on here and complain. If Skoda give a date and then miss that date, people come on here and complain. They're trying to build cars but don't have enough components, and people come on here to complain. This must be an absolute nightmare for the planning depts at ever manufacturer who use the 'just-in-time' method of production. On top of that, by allowing you to customise a car with various options ) that has to make the problem even worse. Give them a break, I'm sure they're trying their very best. If people still aren't happy then simply cancel your order and buy a car from another manufacturer, preferably one who's only option is what colour of paint would you like.

No doubt Skoda support will refer you to the dealership. The original sales person may try convincing you it's a good time to buy a new car but he/she will not be interested in warranty claims, they'll refer you to the person you've already spoken to. You've spoken to the correct person i.e. service. If they can't tell you then take your car to another dealership who'll likely tell you the same thing. If they say it's not a warranty issue, what then? Who's going to fix it? You've said the issue relates to central locking. Can you describe exactly what the problem is?