kodiaqsportline

I hear what you're saying and sympathise with you but bottom line is this. The dealer say they can't find a fault and in fairness to them, you can repair a fault you can't find. As the dealer has said no to rejection then if you were to take it further, an ombusman or indeed legal team would want proof that the fault exists. For the car to be rejected, you need to proof there's a fault. As linni says, the system may be working OK, perhaps it just needs adjusting. In the above reply you say the window had a fault. In your initial post you say it's faulty. Are you saying that's now fixed? If you want a tip about having the problem(s) resolved with the dealer or even if it goes beyond that is not to do what you've written above and say things like "my first thought is what's not going to work today" - nobody will be intesrested in that. Be as precise as you can - don't list everything that didn't work, just list everything that doesn't work right now. Rejecting a car will cost the dealer big time, swapping cars won't so that's probably why they'll have made the offer. If you have no confidence in your current car any reason you haven't taken them up on this? EDIT - just a thought - have you tried contacting the previous owner? Is there any history of accidents? Rather then contacting your dealer, it may be worth asking Skoda UK about the history / service of the vehicle. Your insurer may be able to say if that reg has been in any accidents. Just thinking, the system may not have been calibrated correctly. ( I hit a deer with my old car it it took me 3mths and Skoda two repair attempts to discover smart cruise control hadn't been calibrated properly ( it needed a factory techy to come up with a solution ).

If you bought the car from the dealer rather than online then you can reject the car within the first 30 days if it has a significant fault. Try to look at this objectively ( it's hard when you've just spent ££££££'s ) You list the number of faults but I'm I correct in saying that on each occasion you've visited, the dealer hasn't found anything wrong? Put yourself in their position: 1: If that's correct then you'll struggling to describe the fault as 'significant'. 2: Look at this from the dealer's view - if they can find no fault how is he to know the customer isn't just trying to return the car because it's too big, or the wrong colour, or... well whatever ? 3: You say they wanted you to go out with a technician. Did that ever happen? What you need to do is prove those faults exist so how do you do that? Dashcam? or better still a dashcam set up to point at your instument panel. You can also take video on your phone when the volume control / window / etc occurs. What's the problem with the window? You say Keyless entry sometimes doesn't work. My first thought is when was the battery last changed. That's very easy and cheap to prove - just install a new keyfob battery. Intermittent problems are the worst but you say you've visited the dealer four times in three weeks? Those problems must happen relatively often then.

Certainly was an option when my I ordered my MY21 facelift. Was part of the 'sleep' package ( One option box I was never going to tick ) For the life of me I could never understand why Skoda charged £205 for a manual sunblind or £180 and it's included as part of the Family pack. Total Bonkers.

Apologies for going off topic but that's an interesting point re: Russia. There used to be a number of Russian owners on here specifically on the Kodiaq forum. Haven't seen any comment from a Russian owner for sometime - wonder if that's down to Putin isolating the country from the rest of the world.

It's certainly not a thick question. Like Simon68, I eventually got the system to work but it wasn't intuative - and I've been in IT for over 30years! Biggest difference between personilaisation I found on MIB3 to MIB2 was the necessity to set up each key holder with a Skoda Connect profile. Total pain in the butt, but eventually the system does work. That said I drive the facelifted MY21 rather than the latest MY22 car so there may be other differences now. I don't know if there' s a difference between todays '3rd key' and the 'personalisation' option on my car but it all works as it should - the car will configure itself according to which key is used to open the door.

COD can activate when driving stready at 70mph along a motorway. If you're gentle on the pedal, it'll even work maintaining same speed going up a very slight incline! When descending a hill with my foot off the accelerator, the 2cyl indicator 'eco' on my digital dash actually goes out. ( with the instantaneous display reading 300mpg ). I'm now on my 3rd COD VWgroup engine - even ran a 2017 1.4tsi Skoda without COD whilst also owning a 2017 1.4tsi SEAT with for about a few years. I found no difference in economy. And why should I, COD is only ever activated for very short periods of time - must be a fraction of a percent of the whole journey. You'd never notice it. There's a simple test we owners ( so that excludes Root ) can carry out to see for themselves how COD works. If driving a manual car with warm engine then as long as you're in Normal mode, if you drive along a level road at a constant 30mph in 3rd gear, the display should indicate you're running on 2cyl. Keeping the speed constant, change down to fourth and you should notice the engine returns to 4cyl mode. PoloGaz - when you say others suggest keeping in lower gears for deactivation to work - sounds to me like they don't know what they're talking about. Do any of them drive cars with COD? Same holds true for Automatic - whatever gear your car is in at a set speed, when you see the 2cyl mode, flick the paddle down a gear and you'll be back on 4cyls. COD does not like low revs and that's why those who set their car to run in ECO mode rarely see 2cylinder deactivation - ECO mode changes down gears early which means the engine labours more hence COD doesn't kick in. That begs another question tho - what's more economical at a set speed - an engine running in 2cyl mode or slighly labouring engine running in a lower gear? PoloGaz - Set the display to instantaneous mpg and do the above test. Whats the higher mpg at 30mpg - 2cyl mode or 4cyl mode? It proves what those others said isn't true. I can only assume COD exists because it produces less emissions, but if anyone is claiming you'll save fuel as a result... who knows. might be the start of a new VW petrolgate.

My car was purchased a month earlier from down the road in Ayrshire and has covered just over 5000 miles. I too am a careful driver however I don't think there's been a single journey where I haven't hit potholes or road calming humps and bumps - it's unavoidable. You're only kidding yourself if you think you haven't. Of far greater importance, what's your tyre depth like. What depth are your fronts and rears? ( Assuming you haven't swapped your tyres from front to back ).

Totally agree that many things are lost in translation with VW Group products ( not just the owners manual ), but I'm not sure the owners manual is meant to be read beginning to end like a novel. If I don't know how something works, I've looked at the owners manual and never had a problem understanding it. What I find more annoying is reading comments on forums where the poster has never bothered to look at the ownwers manual. How many times do we see the reply RTFM ?

Yes.

Ah that's explains it. What sort of MPG were you seeing from the diesel?

You don't live in the East End of Glasgow or Edinburgh by any chance? On a serious note and not wanting to go off subject, what's the point of an 'advisory' speed limit? "We advise you drive at 20mph but if you want to drive faster then no problemo?" 🤪

Have to say that excluding those 20mph built up areas, our camera works as well as can be expected ( it'll get confused by the odd lorry displaying a speed limit ). I get what you're saying re: out-of-date maps, but no map designer can account for temporary speed limits etc. Perhaps I'm just being ignorant but seems logical / obvious to me that the real-time camera should take preference over any pre-determined map.

Our cars already have a speed limiter which is a requirement from next month but I think is 2024 when they're talking about speed assist becoming std - that's where the system reads uses the camera. Our Karoq would be like a kangaroo going up and down the streets around here. They say it will be a requirement from 2024 but not sure if they say the system can be overridden / turned off. I hope it can.

Not sure I've ever seen a green advisory speed limit. Just normal red mandatory signs. My thoughts exactly.

It's not often I drive our Karoq but noticed this morning the speed recognition carmera had been turned off, so enabled it again. ( I don't have this option on my Kodiaq ). Everything worked as I'd expected until I hit urban streets where there's now a 20mph speed limit. What happens is the camera recognises the sign on the lampost, the central display changes from 30mph to 20mph but by the next lampost the reading has returned to 30mph. It displays that until next 20mph sign where the process repeats itself. I'd have thought the system wouldn't change the displayed speed until advised by the camera but I guess it works in conjunction with the SatNav. Seems if the sign says 20mph and the SatNav says 30mph the system defaults to the SatNav. Doesn't logic suggest it should work the other way round, that the camera takes preference over the SatNav? What a waste of time if the display provides the driver with the wrong speed.

Would love to know the basis of her claim. Just like Randy Andy and Whacko Jacko etc, it's yet another case of the accused paying off folk to keep them quiet. There are some markets where I can see the owners bringing a case against VW but here in the UK? As I asked Sparky2, would love to know what grounds is the claimant using. I strongly believe those UK ambulance chasing lawyers knew they didn't have a hope in hell of winning if it went to court but were banking on an out-of-court settlement. I don't know a single person ( including myself ) here in the UK, who purchased diesel based on it's environmental credentials. If it was then it was because of it's lower Co2 emissions i.e. lower VED. They're saying their cars produced more emissions than was stated to the court so it follows that they must have been underpaying VED. Wonder how many claimants will volunteer to repay the taxpayer the monies they should have out of their ill earned gains? ( none will be the answer to that ).

Our 1.5dsg petrol is used exclusively around town. Worst case scenario is winter where it'll return approx high 30's. In warmer weather it's low 40's. However if I do use it on a longer run it's high 40's. Best case scenario - longer journey on A roads driving with economy in mind in summer, it's low 50's Diesel - v- Petrol? All depends on how you drive car. Are you being honest with yourself tho? You say you drive 12k a year, most of this being 50m motorway journeys every weekend? Well 52 weekends x 50m is only 2.6k. That's not most, it's only a small percentage. What about the remaining 9.4k ? In nearly every scenario I come across these days, unless you have a need for diesel then it would take a huge annual mileage before the diesel -v- petrol break even point is reached.

I couldn't agree more with that. The less people who I shake hands with the better.

There's no thinking about it - percentage wise, such items are the salesperson's highest earners. Chances of writing off a new car are very slim ( I don't know of anyone who has ) but lets not forget, GAP doesn't pay for a direct replacement, it only pays the difference between the replacement cost and your invoice. And depending on your insurer, you may find it's already part of your car insurance policy. Every policy I've had would pay for a replacement if the car's written off in the first 6mths at least. It's a hell of a money for such a small amount though. If the GAP figure was significant, all it says to me is I paid way too much for the car in the first place. The only way I can see it working is if you have a very lengthy options list, none of which contribute to the market value or if the car is bought on finance where some folk are only interested in the monthly payment rather than the total amount they have to pay over the term. If you're really set on GAP then it' almost certainlly cheaper to buy it from a 3rd party or direct from the insurer rather than the garage selling the car.

Never quite seen the need for GAP insurance but appreciate everyone is different. But given todays market where many people are finding their cars appreciate in price, is there any point to GAP? As per other's experience - I usually take the 5 day cover - gives me time to search best insurance for my needs but as you'll find with any manufacturer, the price is very high. By the way, it's not the manufacturer's insurance rather it's just a broker on behalf of your manufacturer. Wee story - many years ago I bought a Ford and took their 7day cover offer. When I called to cancel, operator said have you found a better deal and I said I was going with Norwich Union. Operator said - err that's who we are. She looked up my quote then reduced Ford's price of around £700 to the £300 I'd been quoted and matched the excess etc.

Eh? As long as the update starts then it'll work away in the background. No need to leave ignition on for 2.5mins let alone 2.5 hours.

Noticed it yesterday - exactly the same thoughts. Looking at the positives, at least the update downloaded OK.

Anyone in your position should have done exactly what Spivo did. And I'd have exactly the same sentiments toward the manufacturer as he has. Just to be clear about this, are we correct in saying that all you've done is order a car i.e you haven't bought it? If your dealer is refusing to return any deposit then you obviously have a case, which would be a legal matter rather than involving an ombusman, but if your dealer is saying you can have your deposit back in full, I'm stuggling to be sympathetic toward someone who appears to be digging their own grave. Just cancel and buy another car. Easy Peasy.

Just having a browse around whilst it's peeing down outside and come across this. Perhaps I can help. If what you say is true then, Warranty? If the part had been faulty and wasn't replaced when detected then yes it's not covered. But if they're saying there was no need for it to be replaced... that means Skoda dealer / service said it WAS working. So not sure why they're now saying it's not covered. You may have been speaking to a jobsworth - try again. HOWEVER... If it were me then I'd forget all about the warranty and concentrate on the law. In pigeon talk, the law says that for the first 12mth, the goods you buy should work. If something fails in the first 6mths, the onus is up to the seller to prove the fault wasn't present when you purchased the car. The onus is then on the buyer for the final six months to prove the fault was present - which sounds easier than it actually is. If what you say is correct then you have that proof... the car was sold with a known fault. I'd be contacting the suplying dealer and ask them to explain the situation and tell them you were sold a car with a known fault. If warranty is saying it's not a fault then the supplying dealer is up a creek without a paddle. Or perhaps I'm reading it wrong. Are you saying the fault was diagnosed in March 22 after you'd bought the car? Did anyone mention it to you at the time? Law still applies - it's the supplying dealer who's liable.

Exhaust pipe? It's not an exhaust pipe, it's just a piece of fake plastic trim. Look at this video to get the idea ( comes up after 45secs ) Stick of truth Glowing red or glowing white? Sounds horrible, but that's only my opinion, people with no taste might like them. 😄