Jonnyhatesjazz70

It's just an easy check for peace of mind, fed up with the 2.0 tsi CCZA scare mongering. I have a spare bung just in case it breaks.

I bought it at 39k 2 years ago and cannot get hold of the previous ocd owner. One thing is for sure, this lining has been off before, its had a dremel on one of the T25's. Will post pics after.

Hi J.R. I am going to look at the tensioner today, just for peace of mind, just thought a post might save me taking the wheel off and lining out, pretty chilly here! My car build is around March 2012 and registered in May 2012. Chain cover is 15/12/2011.

Good evening. Just a quick question that keeps bugging me. I cannot find the build date for my CCZA engine. The date on the timing chain cover is, I assume for the cover only, not the engine. My car manufacturer date is 2012 by the VIN code. Any advice welcome.

Thank you. Will take it off at the weekend, the hose looks like it's going to be annoying!

Good morning. I have just spent far too long under the car changing the DV, the old one was a 'C', new one is a 'G' revision, old piston, new is the diaphragm one. I bought it from the good folks at Awesome GTI and was advised that the piston type was liable to leak with my engine and the G will hold boost better. I will take her out later for a blast and see if it feels better at high revs, will report back if anyone is interested. I got to the DV from under the car, the third bolt was a pain but patience, tea, and perseverance paid off. Was nice to check the boost pipes whilst down there also.

Sometimes it just needs to be taken out and given a clean, very easy to take out under the glove box. Worked for me last year.

I got the car up this morning with my nice shiny new trolley jack, all the prep done, stands under, nice and safe. Took all the T25s out of the Skid plate, two of the T40s at the back, 3rd one completely rounded off! Tried mole grips, sticking a flat head in, stuck fast. Have ordered a couple more for when I do get it out. Car was serviced recently so the cover has been off. Any further suggestions warmly received.

Hawco has confirmed I will receive a new filter, oil and clutch calibration if needed as its a DQ250 box. Bitz quoted the same price Toots.

I have emailed Bitz. Have you used them before Toot?

Good point!

Nairn is fine. I booked it in for 0900 at Hawco, its only up the road Toot.

I note that if my gearbox is a DQ250 then I do get a filter according to that price schedule. My build sheer says I have the NLR code, no idea if that is a DQ250, but I hope so!

Hi Toot. As you know, we are bit stuck up here when it comes to certain car services. We are going down to the Borders, Dunblane and Perth at the end of October, if they tell me that I am not getting a filter I may just book it in down there whilst away! How long does it take mate?

Thanks Gav. No Indis where I live will do them, will try Inverness. Any idea why dealers don't change them? Seems a lot of money and time to not replace the filter.

Evening. I have booked my car in with Hawco Skoda and have asked them what the price of £295 includes. The nice person at the other end of my email thinks it's just the oil changed but not a new filter. Does this sound right? She is double checking and letting me know tomorrow, it's going in on the 3rd November.

Evening all. Can anybody please tell me what turbo I have in my car ? Have searched the Web with zero luck. IHI..or K03s Also, which diverter valve? Am thinking it's the 'D' revision due to my build year. I have the CCZA engine. Thank you.

Good evening all. Does anybody know when the Diverter valves on a ccza 2.0 tsi were upgraded from a diaphragm to a piston, which I understand is revision D? As I have to get under the car to check my number, I was hoping someone could save me the trouble of laying in puddles. Mine is a 2012 with a IHI rfh5 turbo, again, cannot confirm that as the turbo check requires laying in puddles. Thanks

Evening. Is it definitely the motor? Mine stopped working and I simply took it out, no tools and 5 minutes, sprayed the blades with wd40, let it dry then voilà, fully working better than ever. Just a thought.

Thank you both for your advice. I purchased the OEM Sachs in the end, with new springs and track rods. I was over thinking it all weekend and went for the genuine ones that it came with. They should re-energise the car as its far too bouncy and handling a bit sketchy on the fast mountain corners. Thanks again.

Good afternoon all. My current Sachs shocks are feeling a bit bouncy and the car is wallowing a bit too much for my style of driving. I am looking at B4 or B6 Bilsteins as a replacement. I live on fast country roads and the average speed is 60mph with rather a lot of corners, dips and a few holes, which I can navigate. Any thoughts welcome, the B4s look like a straight swap with not much difference in performance, B6's too stiff? I will get new drop links and top mounts also. Front only as the rear feels fine. Looked at Koni also, bit too high spec though. Cheers

I probably should have attached the picture of it. Long day at work, apologies.

Good evening all. I wish to clean my maf but have not seen one of these clips before, the grey bit pops up but not much movement. Am used to VW clips but this one is weird, have no wish to force it or break it. Any advice welcome.

Evening. I am possibly going to clean my throttle body soon, preventative maintenance only, car is fine. I have a 2.0 tsi, mk2 Superb. It looks tricky removing it as the rear right bolt is cramped, but I like a challenge, am on 61k so worth a wee clean. My question is, do I have to reprogram the body after the clean and reinstall? Vcds or can I simply idle it for a while? Any advice welcome.

Quick update. I called Pipercross and they informed me that my 1621 is indeed a dry filter. The Vag ones do not need oiling due to the historic maf issues. I will put it back in and see if it makes a blind bit of difference to the Bosch paper one!