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Hello all. Just wondering if anyone has any particular recommendations for a Wireless Android Auto Dongle? Looking for something reliable that won't break the bank. Infotainment system I have is the MIB2.5 Amundsen. Many thanks in advance.

Use a long screwdriver to help reinstall the damper. That's what I did.

Had similar issues. It's probably the release button on the boot itself that is broken. Microswitch failure is common. Only way to fix it is to pay for a new boot release IIRC.

What build codes do you need from me to confirm for sure? EDIT: Never mind, I think I found them. "L16 - Suspension range 16 installation control only, no requirement forecast" so I guess "5Q0411105HC "?

Sorry me again. @CarlstonIt has been suggested I might need to get some fresh springs as well. Could you find the right part number for both front and rear springs? I'll get you further details if you need them.

Thanks. I am assuming it is a case of undo the bolts and push the headlights forward. What size of torx driver do you need? Want to make sure I have all the possibly required tools before I even attempt this.

Just for reference and the avoidance of doubt, which bolts/screws do you unfasten to be able to move the headlights forward for a bit more space to work on the indicators? I can only see one big torx bolt looking at the headlights and I am not sure what size it is or if there are any other fasteners.

Viofo A129 Duo or some variation thereof. Does well for me.

Thanks for the input all. It is looking like ultimately it is down to budget. I been looking at the prices between B4 and B6 and "Oof". The car's MOT is soon. We'll see if the suspension needs work at that point.

@MarkyG82@MarkyG82 Thanks for that. Wasn't sure if B6 cause the ride to become rock hard. Not against that as I would prefer that to soft wallowing suspension

Thanks for your help @Carlston. Going by the part numbers given, B4s are basically closest to OEM. I might go for B6s though if my budget can stretch to them. Are B6s that much harder computer to B4s?

@Carlston 0YC - "Weight range 3 installation control only, no requirement forecast" K8B - Hatchback 1X0 Production date is listed as 13/09/2016 If you need any other details @ me and I'll see what I can do.

Thanks for that. That is what I am not sure about if the car has been lowered beyond factory, being the third owner of the car. I have posted a picture of one of the wheel arches for clarification before but I am not sure if it is easy to tell.

@Carlston Thanks for that. What about the rear shocks? If it helps, the vehicle build codes document I have for my VIN lists 0N4 and 1JE relating to the rear suspension.

Hello folks. Sorry to drag up this topic again. I asked from some help from a supposed authorised and knowledgeable Bilstein retailer. After some confusion due to me being unable to easily measure the outside diameter of the shocks, (I think they are 50 mm), I was suggested B8's as the closest, as the shocks currently fitted have an "obsolete part number" and there isn't a direct replacement. I thought the B8 was way too low for my car? I attach a (slightly redacted) picture of the build sticker in the manual (Couldn't find the one in the boot). Can someone confirm what would be best for my car as an upgrade. Considering the B6's if the right ride height for a bit more body control than the B4's but any advice appreciated.

It's not rear 12 Volt sockets, but this guide about retrofitting rear USB ports into the back of the central console might help.

Thanks folks. I tried to unclip the cover but it isn't really moving. I don't know if I need to put more pressure on the cover. Videos I have studied that did the removal made it seem a lot easier. I'm going to leave it for now until I actually bought the new covers, that way if something breaks I still got a replacement to fit anyway.

Got various pry tools including a "wide wedge" as the workshop manual called it. I found it wasn't particularly effective. A better bet was one of the longer, narrower tools with more leverage. Still scary. As for removing the mirror covers, is that the same in that you need more pressure than you think or is there some special technique for that?

Hello folks. Just wondering if any of you can advise on how difficult it is to remove the covers on the wing mirrors and change the bulbs on the mirror undersides? I am looking at getting some black coloured covers in the future and replacing the bulbs with some brighter ones. I tried to do a dry run following some instructions online and in the various workshop manuals, but found trying to pry off the mirror glass to follow the other steps to be difficult and needed a bit more force than I was expecting. Thankfully no damage done. The catches on the existing cover on the other hand don't seem to be as easy to unclip. How easy should this be? Am I just being too delicate and need to use more force to unclip the cover to remove it? Any advice would be appreciated.

Personally, Viofo for me. Using an A129 Plus Duo and it works very well.

Well, on that note I think I'll just stick to some form of long life filament bulb up until such a change in the law which does allow drop in LED conversions, if such a thing happens.

Thanks for that. Can you remind me if any special adaptions are needed for the LED indicator bulbs?

Depending on the centre caps design, you might be able to peel the emblem off and replace them with these...

I personally found it easier to just wrap the ends of the shelf in duct/gaffer tape and it slots into place just fine, as suggested by someone else on the forums. Seems to work just as well.

@DoogeDid you need new springs or did the existing ones work OK?