Felix2021

For front it's 5NA035700. Just ordered one and will check how i can fit it to O4. Actually there are two versions of standard port. 5NA035736 and 5NA035736A. By the looks of it, newer part number with A has same (or similar) casing as 45W one, so maybe it's possible to już swap PCB between the cases. One without A looks a bit different, and it might be harder, but i'll check. My car is from march 2021, so i assume i will have one without A. As for rear ports, i would have to check in ETKA, a just saw there are options, but haven't really checked for part numbers.

Cannot edit second time now If anyone interested. Octavia's USB hub part numer is 657035736. In other VAG cars same hub is 5NA035736. The have slightly different case, hence other part number. In other cars this hub is interchangable with 5NA035700, which is same hub but supporting power delivery protocol (45W). For some models those 2 part number are shown for different trim levels. So from electrical side hub in O4 can be replaced with 5NA035700 with PD. Only question is if it's possible to make it fit physically. I guess i'll try... I know this topic is about rear ports, but sometimes ideas come when reading other topics BTW - rear ports are also available with PD and are interchangable, so should be possible to install 45W ports in the rear using different part number.

Thanks for clarification, now it's clear. I didn't know, that they have separated power and data to separate plugs, as it's rather uncommon. Good to know. Knowing this, wondering if that means we could try to increase power delivered by those ports. Am not sure where voltage regulation and PD unit would be. In the ports, or somewhere else? Maybe it would be possible to connect "External" PD unit to those ports or replace ports themselves (depending on how it's done) and keep data connection as if? Edit: Ok, seems to be the hub, that needs replacement. Need to dig a bit more to find part number that would fit. Seems doable.

It's not, it's metal. All screws hodling the door card have metal "nuts"/thread in the door construction. For me it didn't help. What helped was sound deadening of the door and mostly foam glued to the door card. However recently it's developing new rattle in the passenger door, seemingly coming from the lock (or at least this area). Tried to find the source, but couldn't locate anything except for the lock, for which i didn't have proper tools to remove, so next round will come during spring. I also bought second batch of foam, so will add it and fix the rattler at the same time (hopefully ).

To be honest many cars have not correct allignment fresh from the factory. And that wouldn't be an issue, if pre-sales maintenance would be done as it should be, but in majority of cases it's not. Hell, if they forget to remove transport blocks from the springs, how can we expect them to correct wheel allignment? I'm one of those people who cares a lot about proper allignment. Because of that i'm having hard time finding mechanic that would really know what he was doing and would adjust allignment correctly. Most will just correct misalignment to be more or less withing tolerance, which is not good enough really...

One question. Have you tried connecting devices to rear and front ports at the same time? Front ports are not only for charging, but also data. If you have just split the cables, it means rear ports are now also data ports, but shared with front ones. So once you connect 2 devices to ports in front and rear, which for infotaiment are same ports, you may get some strange behavior.

Unfortunately for many mechanics it seems to be rocket science. And how do you know it's required, is you haven't measured it? Usually measurements and adjustment are done at the same time. And i don't think i remember a single case, where no adjustment at all was needed. Some misalignments might not be felt by most drivers, but some will still feel there's something wrong. This is one of the things that it's good to do once in a while. In case of multilink suspension, like in vRS, there's always some adjustment of the rear possible. Even in case of torsion beam SOME adjustment is possible. E.g. if you hit a pothole, it's possible that whole beam will be misalligned a bit, as mounting points are kind of bean shaped, which means one side can move towards rear of the car. This can be adjusted. I actually had this case in one of my previous cars (Leon 5F, so basically same rear suspension, as in "lesser" Octavia models). In some cases, some cars, it's even possible to adjust angles, that manufacturer didn't mean to be adjustable officially. For example, as mentioned before in this thread, by adjusting whole subframe, but also using i.e. eccentric bolts for dumpers etc. Unfortunately there's very few mechanics that know how to do that and even care about proper allignement.

No, i haven't used any spacers, but i have added some self adhesive foam to the edges of the speakers, same way as in factory speakers, but it's it's a bit longer, so it still touches the door card. Yes, 165 fit without any problem. I had same doubts, so i got 155 and 165. Plan was to use 165 in the back, if they do not fit in the front. However it turned out, that 165 fit perfectly in the front, so now i have 155 in the back. One note about Focal speakers: i recently found out (own experience) that they tend to "freeze" during heavy winter. They play very well, but seemingly the air gap in those speakers is not really suitable for car audio. Smaller air gap improves sound, but in case of low temps (recently we had -11 where i live) speaker stops working most probably due to voice coil shrinking and touching the magnet (my assumption, as it\t not related to water freezing). So something to consider, but you live in Greece, so you should have no problem Guys living in Finland should avoid Focals 😁

Ok, just asking, as sometimes simple solutions are the best ones Considering it's both front and rear, i would say it's probably not related to light units. Could be indicators switch, one of the computers or anything else. Strange issue, so hard to say what it might be.

Are you sure you haven't accidentally used indicator lever after car been switched of? There's a feature to enable parking/position lights on one side only by flicking indicator lever, but i can't remember exactly if there was any time limitation.

IF facelift is coming before your car is built, you will get a facelift. They will not be manufacturing "old" model for those, who ordered cars just before FL.

Have they replaced both pads and rotors, and both front and back? If so, was the vibration there immidiately after replcement, or was it back after some time?

It was tested. When camera detects reflection from any sign it will dim segment that is lightning it, so that you are not dazzled by reflection.

No, there are no options you can change. If ou are being flashed contantly, it means that your matrix's can be miscalibrated. Calibration is only possible at service center with proper tools. As for it being distracting - i notice the "dance", but i do not find it distractig. So either your lamps dance more due to some technical issue, or you are just more sensitive to it. IF you can get it calibrated (i know not all delarships have tools and know how to do that), you will see if situation (also with "dancing") is improved. Hopefuly yes.

To be honest i am not sure what they did with infotaiment, that's why i said "i think" Usually during face lift they also change infotaiment to latest version, so Karoq should get same MIB3 as O4, of course in different form factor (in this case display built in the dash instead of a tablet sticking out from it). Ateca and Karoq are very similar, yet still very different It shows how good is VAG with sharing market between the brands, even using same building blocks. Technically they are twins, they drive in a very similar way, however "feeling" is very different. Also they used interesting measures to differentiate the cars. For example in 2018, when i bought mine, one could get 360 cameras in Ateca, but not in Karoq. At the same time internet connectivity was only available in Karoq, but not Ateca. There were several differences like this. I remember i had an Excel sheet listing all the features of those cars (ones i was interested in) to help me make a decision In the end Ateca won mostly due to bit better handling (progressive power steering and firmer suspension), which in the end was a mistake (i got tired of firmer suspension and didn't really notice huge difference made by progressive power steering 🤣).

Well, Karoq is nice car (was considering it, but finally went with Ateca). Biggest differences for me were fuel consumption (much higher in Ateca despite same engine), ride comfort (Karoq is a bit softer than Ateca, but still quite a bit harder than O4, as it has to cope with higher center of gravity) and boot size. O4 has much more space in the trunk and one can fit much longer things, like 226cm Ikea Pax cabinet (of course in packages ) is not an issue at all. On the other hand you already have some good justification for having SUV. Also i prefer driving position of Ateca/Karoq. I'm afraid, that when it comes to potential issues it will be very similar. It's mostly same platform, with (i think) exactly same infotaiment and assistants. But who knows? Maybe they have own software branch which is bit more polished? Anyway enjoy you new car

Well, for me it was other way around - i had Ateca (Karoq's twin) before O4. I have to say i prefer Octavia

It does make a big difference. Was driving O4 on 17" and 18" wheels. There's very big difference especially in driving stability on high speed runs (on highway, 130-140km/h), but also at lower speeds there's a difference.

Well, i guess it's a matter of "taste". I had it in my previous car (Seat Ateca), and don't have it in L4. I cannot say, there there is no difference, but i also wouldn't call it a big difference either. I had completely no problem with switch to O4 and never really missed that feature. Independent is a little bit more comfortable and it handles better in some circumstances (i.e. driving through a corner on a road with bad surface - torsion beam might tend to oversteer, due to wheels losing contact with tarmac), but for me in 99% of normal road situations there is no real deifference.

Actually that will be a bit different in MK4 probably, same as in Golf 8. Thing is, that in this generation they introduced "dynamics control" or something like that. This setting is basically altering XDS behavior, as well as some other systems if car has them (i.e. DCC). This directly impacts handling, not only steering "feel". I will need to find some time and check available adaptations one day. Sorry, that was my bad. Somehow i probably assumed it was electro-hydraulic, as this was used for a long time in smaller cars, like Ibiza or Fabia (until 2015 in Ibiza at least). But you are right - O2 had electric power steering as i checked now.

As far as i know MK2 Octavia had electro-hydraulic power steering. It means that it was hydraulic, but pressure was done using electric pump, instead of mechanical pump run by the engine. That gave more or less same feedback as regular hydraulic power steering, so no wonder it was better than electric one. However VAG electric power steering is actually rather good (considering it's limitations) compared to some others on the market. There's one more thing to check. I am not sure how it is done in cars without driving modes, but in normal mode XDS (electronic differential lock) seems to be off or on very low setting. Changing to sport turns it on, and it can be felt in handling. I'm not saying about feedback here or force needed to turn the wheel. I'm saying about actual handling. Press gas pedal in the corner and you will feel how nicealy it tightens the corner. So would be good to check what is XDS setting on cars without driving mode selection.

You are mixing things. It doesn't really check if levelling is correct, as this can only be done at MOT/service. It checks whether levelling works at all, and pre-sets level based on car load at the moment of this test, that's it. It's not any kind of calibration. And it certianly has nothing to do with matrix headlights/high beam. It's present in all cars with self-levelling (with xenon or normal LED lights). The fact, that you select auto full beam and no one is flashing you just means that yours are properly calibrated. And it means JUST that, not that they are autocalibrating or something like this.

That's quite amazing, that such a basic thing as calibrating matrix headlights (yes, these days it's basic "repair") can be such a pain. It is required in many cases, i.e. headlight removed for any reason or windscreen replaced due to chip/crack. Every dealership should be obliged to have this equipment. You can try some company that specializes in car windows. They might have the tools. In Poland for example i can see multiple companies claiming to provide such service (i.e. probably biggest one, NordGlass). That's very, very wrong way of thinking. Should it be calibrated at the factory? Of course, but it's not always done correctly. This of course should be fixed under warranty. But if for any reason it's not, you should either pay for calibration or stop using the system, as it might be dangerous for other drivers (and actually you too). "Little dance" is not calibration, this system does not calibrate itself. It requires calibration with special tools, to allign camera and LED segments, and it needs to be done in case of some repairs/actions (see examples above).

@SteveTheElder i have exactly same behavior for the same reasons, that's why i asked about the weather

You should've done that Yes, they sorted it out, and now it's good. I came other way around (almost). Had Ateca before (Karoq's twin) and i like Octavia so much better for everything (except maybe for getting in and out of the car ). Especially fuel consumption is much better in O4.