eccleshill

It isn't a speed limiter it is a speed warning. You set a max speed (default will be your current speed when you set it) and if that is exceeded you get a warning bong. It stays sett until you cancel or change it.

If only everything was as reliable as a VW... Hmmm... In 45 years driving I have only ever had 3 cars (all 2-5yrs old at the time) that broke down and left me by the roadside : 1981 VW Polo that let me down twice - first with a blocked jet in the carb, second with a failed oil pump 1988 VW Polo that let me down once - failed fuel pump 2000 Renault Megane - pulley sheared off the alternator Those are the only 2 VW's I ever had! From memory I've had Morris, Hillman, 4 Fords, Chrysler, Citroen, 2 VWs, Fiat, Renault, 2 Nissans, Toyota, 3 Skodas plus various Honda and Kawasaki motorcycles. Most or all had minor niggles but none except the 2 VWs and the Renault left me by the roadside. So, if everything was as reliable as my VW's I would have been left by the roadside not 4 times but around 30 times.

Had to laugh at that one! I haven't played a CD in car since my 2006 Octavia with in-boot CD autochanger went in 2010. The replacement had an MDI interface that I plugged an HDD with 100's of my CDs ripped to MP3. It had an inbuilt CD autochanger that was used precisely once - to play a National Trust audio guide CD as we followed the long drive to Calke Abbey. When I specified my Roomster I ordered the Amundsen, not for the sat nav, but because it had an SD card slot. Again all the downloads and ripped CD's fit on 3x32GB SD cards. I never played a CD in 7 years. For the record, however, I do cling to some old technology. I still have 4 35mm film cameras that get occasional use, a load of LPs, 45's and cassettes and even a few 78's

Your cost calculation is way off the mark. I use nowhere near a tankful per week! A tankful per week would take me over 30k miles per year! I do 9k miles per year. At an average of 54.5mpg I use 750 litres of fuel per year. Around 20% or 150 litres of that is Premium. My records show an average price per litre of £1.21 for standard and £1.38 for premium over the last 7 years. That difference of 17p per litre is a cost of £25.50 per year. That cost reduces slightly because I get a small payback through marginally better MPG when using premium fuel. Even without the payback it is less than the cost of 2 bottles of Cataclean. Key thing though: does it do the job? I've had the car from new for 7 years, done 67k miles, never seen the DPF warning light come on in anger and have passed every MOT. In addition, over the first 3 years I didn't risk voiding my warranty by using fuel additives against the manufacturers recommendation. All that said, the best way to keep a diesel engine running sweet is to warm it up then drive like you rented it for 20-30 miles every month or so. I do that as well!

You have completely misunderstood my post. I am most certainly not advocating the 100% use of premium diesel. The 52k on standard and the 15k on premium were NOT consecutive. Occasional fills of premium, 2 or 3 at a time, have been spread across the whole 67k. That rules out engine loosening up as a reason for the slightly improved mpg, that I fully agree does not alone justify the extra cost. An unknown factor is how much the cleaning effect of periodic fills of premium have on the subsequent fills of standard so the effect could be greater. And as I said in my caveat, I also can't rule out driving that little bit more economically when I had a tank of Premium. Your bottles of Cataclean at £23 a pair? Add a bottle every 3 months or so? You are spending much more on your engine cleaner than I do, and I have a a strong indication that I get a partial payback on my expenditure. Also, in my user manual Skoda recommend that you do not use fuel additives... As you say, You pays your money and you takes your choice!

I am an MPG geek! Here are some of my "real world" figures. I give my 1.6Tdi the occasional few fills of premium diesel on the basis that it won't harm anything but my wallet and it may help keep things clean. I have done 67k miles from new. 52k miles on standard diesel at 54.1mpg and 15k miles on premium at 55.5mpg. All data is from brim-to-brim not from the trip computer. Now clearly I don't completely drain the tank between fills so there will always be around 10 litres of t'other type of fuel when I fill up. I usually fill up when the gauge drops below 1/4 so in general my fill-ups are 45-52 litres into a "55" litre tank that I reckon holds 58 litres at a squeeze. Can't say I've noticed any performance difference and DPF regeneration is every 200-350 miles irrespective of fuel. Oh, and my car has NOT had the dreaded emissions "fix". Caveat! Whenever you do fuel comparisons you have to be very careful of unconscious bias causing skew of results. One such could be "I've paid an extra £8 for that fill of premium to see if I get better MPG and/or better performance" and then subconsciously drive that little bit more gently to prove your point and convince yourself that the engine really is running quieter and smoother than it does on that supermarket crap. You know, the same as people taking a rat-run short cut always drive that bit faster to prove their route really is quicker! That is why the pro's do blind testing! It may also contribute to the extra 1.4 mpg I get from premium fuel.

Sounds like a sticking brake. After driving a few miles stop the car and put your hand near to each wheel in turn (don't touch they may be very hot!!) if you can feel heat coming from the wheel then you have a seized brake on that wheel.

There is a firm of undertakers in this neck of the woods with a fleet of cars that are all Hnn EAT. They are clearly not Monty Python fans or alternatively have a very sick sense of humour. Google "Monty Python undertaker sketch" if you are younger than or have a shorter memory than me!

You can also slide them back and forward from inside the boot using the pull straps - easier to pull them back than move them forward though. The varioflex seats are, for my money, the most useful feature of the Roomster and the Yeti. Shame they have been dropped in the K-----q models.

I have an elderly relative with limited mobility who reckons the Roomster is the best car she has ever experienced for getting in and out. That is only for the back seats though. Combination of higher roof line and higher seat. Only issue she has is fastening the seat belt. She won't be reading this so... She is rather broad in the beam and struggles to find the buckle to plug the belt in! When we take her for extended journeys I remove the centre seat and move the outer 2 towards the middle. That makes a lot of difference! The high back seat also makes for much increased leg room even when the rear seats are moved forward to increase the already enormous boot. I have done this on a couple of occasions when carrying 4 adults and luggage to allow larger wheeled suitcases to be stowed "north-south" making it easier to pack it all in. Here's another great advantage of the Roomster... The high roof line means that you can tip back and drain the last drops from a 500ml Coke bottle without doing contortions with your neck. 😄 Try doing that in a Polo!!

You have Maxidot - reset is an absolute doddle!! No contortions or fiddly multiple button presses and you most certainly do not need VCDS! Switch on the ignition and wait until the maxidot initialises. Press and hold the rocker switch on the right hand stalk - either up or down position - either will work. You will get a menu Not 100% sure where the reset is from memory but I am pretty sure it is in "Settings" Scroll using the rocker switch and select "settings" using the button under the stalk. In the next menu scroll down and select "service" Reset is an option in there.

That is 20 hours of driving, not 20 hours from the last reset. I have a Roomster but it has the same dash as the Fabia. Those figures I quoted are from the User Manual though to be pedantic it actually resets after 19hrs 59min.

To add to the other 2 replies... Memory #1 is for your current journey. It resets if the engine is off for more than 2 hrs. Memory #2 is the cumulative memory. If you have the standard LCD type dash it resets at 20hrs or 1999 miles. If you have the maxidot dash it resets at 100hrs or 9999miles. In reality it hits the time limit long before the miles unless you average 100mph for the whole time! A short press on the button under the right hand stalk switches between memory #1 and #2. A long press manually resets the currently selected memory.

Stopping the engine during a regen shouldn't cause a problem. I do it frequently. What is NOT right is that you are getting the shaking and white smoke on restart. After an interruption my 65k mile old 1.6TDi doesn't restart the process until the engine is warm - after 4 or 5 miles, I never get any smoke and the engine never shakes. The signs I get when a regen is in progress are: tickover rises to 1000rpm oil temperature (maxidot) climbs very quickly to 10-20 degrees above where it is in normal running a change in engine note on gentle acceleration - sounds a little as though the exhaust is blowing across the top of a bottle the exhaust smells like the smell of burning aviation fuel you get around airports there is a smell of hot rubber, only noticeable if you get out of the car immediately after interrupting the regen. very occasionally, the cooling fan runs on after the engine has stopped and key removed.

That doesn't sound right to me! Dealers do NOT service and MOT their stock until it is sold. Reason being, they don't know how long it is going to sit on their forecourt. If it doesn't sell and they move it on through the trade why would they take a loss on the cost of the test and service? I would walk away from this one! Could be that someone else was on the verge of buying and backed out, maybe due to the water leak or maybe because they discovered how much it was going to cost to repair.

Good example today. Car not used so much over last week or so. Just short shopping trips. Set off with around 3/4 tank showing 410 mile range. Drove for 20 miles on A road and motorway. Trip now shows average mpg for trip was 62.5 and remaining range now 475 miles. Fuel gauge hardly moved.

Sounds to me like your car is suffering from acute constipation. Modern diesels are totally unsuitable for short journeys around town. They need frequent motorway trips or at the very least a good long A road run at 50+mph. Take it out and drive it like you rented it for at least 50 miles. Accelerate hard - foot to the floor, taking it up to around 4000 rpm on each change. You need to do this every couple of months or so. As for your fuel range "anomaly", the remaining miles is calculated using the fuel consumption over the previous 20 miles. So if you take a drive and cover the last 20 miles at 50mpg and you have 10 gallons in your tank your range will show as 500 miles. If you then drive your next 20 miles in crawling traffic at 40 mpg your range will drop to 380 miles. The opposite is also true - many times I have set off on a motorway trip after a period of town driving and arrived at my destination 100 miles later with more range in the tank than when I set off!! Also, don't forget that miles remaining is only displayed to the nearest 5 miles. So you may drive 100yds and that it just enough to flip it over the next 5 miles.

Thanks Admins for sorting out the Roomster MkII section and shifting all the posts into MkI. Hopefully nobody will read this and think I was advocating closure of the whole Roomster section! If a replacement for the Roomster ever does surface I reckon they should call it the KWERQ

I think the noise would tell you if the cat had been nicked! Unless Welsh thieves kindly reconstruct the exhaust! 😂

Mine is a factory fit in a 2013 Roomster but should be similar; I don't have Bluetooth. It turns on with the ignition as soon as the key is turned but doesn't turn off until I take the key out - so when I switch off the ignition all the way anti-clockwise the Amundsen stays on. Then when I take the key out of the ignition the Amundsen switches off, the doors unlock and the interior lights come on. I can also switch it on with no key in the ignition by pushing the on/off but in this case it auto shuts down about 20 minutes after you last adjust any control.

On mine the Skoda splash screen shows for a few seconds every time on start up, then the screen goes to where it was when you switched off (except for the Nav which never goes back to the map, always the Nav home-screen). Also if it is returning to Nav then there is a few seconds delay with message something like "Navigation is starting up, please wait"

The Roomster was never fitted with a 6 speed box. The later models all had 5 speed manual boxes or a 7 speed DSG available on the 1.2TSi 105PS only.

I have the 1.6TDi and say you can forget the DPF. After 65k miles I hardly even know it's there. Mine has NOT had the emissions "fix". That said... The 1.6TDi is only Euro 5 standard for emissions. With the demonization of diesels and in particular anything less than Euro 6 I would personally go petrol. But of course widespread views like mine have pushed down the price of diesels so if you are prepared to take the risk and don't intend going into Bristol any time time soon they may be a bargain buy. I've had mine for 6.5 yrs from new and love it. I intend keeping it until it dies or until the anti-diesel lobby make it impossible to run. As someone else has said, if your 1.4 is running OK I would be tempted to keep it until it dies or until you can get a nice fat scrappage payout.

The car does not "go into passive mode", it goes into active mode when passive regeneration isn't clearing enough soot. There are 3 types of regeneration: Passive Mode - while running at motorway speeds the engine generates enough heat to burn off the soot captured by the filter. Active mode - if there has been insufficient motorway running then the electronics detect the build up of soot in the filter and start the regeneration process you have noticed. The engine management system injects a small amount of fuel on the exhaust stroke. This fuel is carried by the exhaust into the DPF where catalysts cause it to burn, raising the temperature and burning off the soot. This process occurs every 150 to 350 miles depending on how the car is driven. It usually takes around 10 miles driving to complete, preferably at a steady 40+mph. The DPF gets very hot during this process. If you are doing insufficient long runs so that active mode cannot clear the soot then your warning light comes on. At this point you need to take the car out and drive it hard for 10-15 miles until the process is complete. The easiest way to see that it has completed is that the tickover drops from around 950-1000rpm back to 750-800rpm. If you continue driving on a cold engine for short trips with the light on you pass the point of no return and the car will go into limp home mode - you then have to take it to a suitably equipped mechanic for a forced regeneration Forced Mode - the car is wired up to a computer that runs a special program to clear out the soot. It involves a lot of high rev static running and a lot of smoke! As well as soot being captured by the DPF there are other fine particles in the exhaust that cannot be burnt in the regeneration process and remain as ash. This ash builds up over time to the point where the DPF is so clogged that it has no capacity left for soot. That is when it must be replaced or cleaned by a specialist process. These particles are from 2 main sources: microscopic traces of metal from engine wear in the oil burnt on the cylinder wall - if your engine burns a lot of oil then your DPF life will be dramatically shortened. This is why oil changes must be done to the recommended schedule and oil used must be as recommended. Fuel contains minute traces of metal and silica none of which burns and ends up as ash in the DPF. The amount is in the parts per million range but over time these tiny amounts build up to a significant amount. It is why VAG recommend that you do not use fuel additives - if the additive contains traces of metals in the formulation then that will build up in the DPF. Next time your DPF light comes on take the car out on quiet M or A roads and give it good thrashing for 20 or so miles. Measure the saturation with your app before and after. I don't know what the figures should be but somebody around here will. Ways to improve/maintain your DPF health: Do not drive like a granny to improve your MPG. The 1.6TDi needs to be used across the rev range. Drive it like you stole it for 20 miles at least every month. Not only does that help your DPF it also stops the EGR valve and the turbo vanes getting gummed up. Change the oil as per the schedule and use good quality oil. If your engine is burning oil then find out why. Burning engine oil is a real fast track to DPF death! One final point in this long ramble! Has your car had the emissions "fix"? If it has then you can expect more frequent DPF active mode regenerations and much lower tolerance to short, cold engine trips!! I have had my 1.6TDi from new, for over 6 years and almost 65k miles. I do frequent motorway journeys including 1 or 2 100 mile plus trips each month. Car has been main dealer serviced every 12 months or 9.5k miles. It burns almost zero engine oil: never put a drop of oil in between services. I get an active regeneration every 200-350 miles and have never seen the DPF warning light come on in anger except when the car was 5k miles old and a sensor failed.

What I suggest is that FROM THE FACTORY a car should have controls fitted that match the equipment fitted. I think that is somewhat further from a "ridiculous proposal" than fitting redundant and/or mislabelled controls on the off-chance that a future owner may want to retrofit some extra equipment!! Hardly "cosmetic" when a switch is labelled as a function it doesn't perform! You'd be pretty annoyed if the light switch had a windscreen wiper icon on it! I would suggest that fewer than 1 in every 1000 bother to retrofit bluetooth so why annoy/confuse 999 people to save 1 person a few quid on his retrofit or having to live with the wrong label on his switches. Where would it end? My car has a cruise control stalk fitted because it had cruise control factory fitted? So should they fit the same stalk to all cars just in case a future owner may chose to retrofit? Judging from Briskoda there are plenty of folk that do that - far more than retrofit bluetooth to an Amundsen+. They could make the switches operate something unrelated I'm sure - maybe the hazard flashers or rear wiper. No! Anyone retrofitting a cruise control needs to buy a different stalk to suit; and not just the one stalk either - the whole stalk assembly! My car has a button on the centre console for the tyre deflation warning system (an optional extra when I specified my car)? Should they fit the same button to all cars but, say, make it operate the interior light? My car doesn't have front fog lights. The lighting switch doesn't have a redundant position and front fog icon. It is a specific switch that has a single pull for the rear fogs. If, like many on Briskoda, I choose to retrofit front fog lights I need a new switch. and on and on and on... To be honest, after 6 years I just live with the "phone" switch that is not a phone switch but a mute switch, but at the time I was pretty p'ed off that I had paid £800 for the upgrade and they couldn't even label the buttons correctly!