MrSecretPotato

Blindspot detection is an optional extra only on the Sportline trim. I used a few vehicles with it, it's handy but it's more like a helping hand, and than a necessity for me. My 2018 Karoq doesn't have one, and I'm completely fine without it. It does have a camera, which is a lot better than just the sensors.

I think if it's heated you can actually see the heater element lines on the screen. Just like on Fords, they would look like wavy lines running top to bottom. You can only see them up close and would not disrupt the view in normal driving position. By the looks, that doesn't seem to be a heated screen. Alternatively, turn it on, and give it a minute and two you should feel a difference with your hand compared to the side windows. Edit: Ignore, completely missed the fact that this was opened in June and didn't notice the previous comments.

Have you tried rebooting the infotainment system by holding down the power button until it restarts? (~15 seconds)

While I don't have standard Wireless Carplay or Android Auto in mine, I use a 3rd party adapter, namely Carlinkit 4.0. Out of all the VAG cars that I used with wireless connection (hire or company), the connection was hit and miss. Sometimes working for weeks, then failing multiple times in one journey. With this specific adapter, Android Auto is working most of the time, a quick unplug-replug would solve any issues, Carplay works almost every time. It Carplay framework to get Android Auto working, so even if you use an Android phone, it would show up as Carplay on the car. I don't think it's anything to do with your specific unit, it's just the way the connection works. On my commute, there's a specific bridge that I cross, the music skips every time when I drive over it, Android Auto or Carplay, no matter what but only on wireless.

It's either a contact within the actual button module, which I believe just pops out with a plastic pry tool somehow, should be fairly cheap to replace compared to the second option, which is a bit more likely as there are people with this issue: clockspring. This module lives between the steering column and steering wheel and allows you to turn the wheel while having wires connected to it. It's basically a wound up spool of wires, which overtime can become frail and crack and break, resulting in the intermittent issue what you're experiencing. First the controls go every so often, then it happens more and more, then you'll start seeing issues with the airbags appear on the dash, horn stops working as the connection fully separates. It's possible to fix the problem, there are people fixing clockspring modules, most of the time just bridging the break, but they won't be as good as a fresh uninterrupted ribbon. You can find them on ebay or maybe your local mechanic knows somebody with similar pricing. You can also get second hand ones, based on the part number listed on the clockspring for the fraction of the cost. With second hand ones, try getting one from a car with low mileage. Second hand ones and the repair service should be right around the £70 mark, while brand new ones can cost around £300, without labour, and stealers charge upwards £600+ for fixing it. If you go down the replacement or repair route, you need to disconnect the battery, pop the airbag out (you have videos online on how to do it), remove the steering wheel (it'll be tough to take off, make sure to mark it, but it should also be marked from factory), then remove the steering column switch assembly which includes the clockspring and also the various arms and levers like indicator, wiper control and the cruise control arm. They can be separated from the clockspring, and you can easily order a new one and fit that, no coding required. After battery disconnection, there will be some errors, some will go away after you start driving, some remain for the duration for the first ride, but after the second start everything should clear.

Roll the rollers on the right of the steering wheel until you see the desired screen. If you can't see it, you have to turn it on using the big screen, within the Settings.

I believe MIB-Helper lets you download all sorts of stuff: MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0480 - Skoda Bolero / Amundsen firmware Edit: Go to here: https://mibsolution.one/ Log in using "guest" for the name and password. Go to mib > MQB_Solution > MST2 - TechniSat Preh > Firmware > SKODA_ZR > EU Download "MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0480T.7z" On the first link you'll find the information on how to actually update the firmware.

No, nothing like that. VAG cars use coding and adaptations for features and internal settings, and you're simply changing that with the software like VCDS or Carista. Don't get me wrong, it's still a lot of options and it can be dangerous if you don't set it up right, or brick your car until it's sorted, but when you know what you're doing, it's almost as simple as ticking a box here and there.

These are just simple switches within the software. Pretty much you just need to untick a box to disable an already enabled feature. Adding a feature is a bit more difficult as you don't know exactly what other things you need to change in order to get it working and on newer models they made it more difficult to enable features.

It is entirely possible to code out the advanced functions of the cruise control and lane assist, leaving you with the absolute minimum of both. VCDS is capable of doing so, at least on older models. Whether it affects warranty and insurance is a different topic.

Call your nearest dealer to book an appointment for a software update regarding this. It's called 57NL campaign, it's meant to fix the locking issue with the software update. Wait time at the dealer I chose was around 2 week, the update itself took less than an hour and it was completely free, even though I was out of warranty. No issues with the locks ever since.

Do you not have a USB port at the mirror trim? The trim between the red and green wires pops out. You can insert a plastic(!!) pry tool at the line on the top of the red line not too deep (1-2 cm) and pop it out. Then you'll be able to see which way you can route the cable exactly to not obstruct the airbag at all. The side of the dashboard which is between the door and the dash on the picture also pops out with the same tool. You can also slide it between the top and the headliner in the car to create enough opening to tuck the wires away, you can hide it all the way to the fusebox without any wires visible.

Have you had any low adblue message pop up on the dash before? Maybe that would help it to show the appropriate screen afterwards. (Just guessing)

I have to ask, it is definitely a diesel, right? Older model 4x4 diesels didn't have adblue, not sure if this is the same now.

That looks like an adaptation channel name, try searching for "adblue" in the list of adaptations for the 5F module.

You could try resetting the infotainment to the factory settings to see if that brings it back. Not the whole unit, just that section.

Not sure on these newer ones but on the older ones you can enable/disable things you wanted with the infotainment system, like range, average speed, average fuel consumption etc.

I believe on newer models the key actually goes into a sleep mode after a few minutes of not being moved around. On older ones, the RFID pouch is a solution to this.

You can definitely buy the Type C module for the car, but without coding and some wiring, it won't work with CarPlay / Android Auto. It'll charge the phone no problem, but you have to change the wiring for the data pins. The best option for charging only is to use a 12v Charger, like THIS (2x Type C) or THIS (if you want 2x Type C and 1x USB-A). They can fast charge 2 phones at the same time without any problems. You can also get an adapter like THIS, then use a cable to be able to close the cubby almost completely, or get a longer version of the USB A to C cables, and the charging adapter, and use the 2nd row 12v socket with the longer cables routed to the front. If you want to connect your phone to the car via the existing USB A port to use CarPlay or Android Auto, you'll need an A to C cable, or a small A to C adapter.

I noticed a fair amount worse consumption in the winter too. I can do my commute with around 50-55mpg during warmer month, but on winter it drops to around 35-40 with heated seats, aircon blasting heat to defrost and defog, heated mirrors and rear screen going. I recently tested a longer journey. Motorway driving, with CC set to 75, an average of 45mpg. Coming back dropped to 60, didn't make much difference to the arrival time, but avg. consumption was 60+. It doesn't like the 70-75mph speed, but extremely happy doing 60, with revs exactly at 1500 which seems to be the sweet spot for the 1.6 TDI engine.

It is indeed possible to do it with VCDS. I've done it on mine (in the UK, but rarely use it, only when it's really cold and need a few mins to warm up). You can do it via VCDS or even with OBDEleven, or Carista. On VCDS, it's just a Bit you need to enable (ticking a box), then submitting the coding. On Carista is a button to press. That's about it. Works straight away, no need to re-connect the battery or restart the engine. If you have VCDS, you can do it with that, otherwise it's cheaper to get a Carista adapter and do it via the app.

Some of my settings, including all the custom light settings made via VCDS got reverted back to stock yesterday, coincidentally on the 1st of January. I no longer had Scandinavian DRL, nor custom cornering light settings, nor DRL only on Auto. I think it's something to with the 1st of January, I don't think this would happen every time with frost.

-delete please-

Are you sure you don't have it? I think if you have the cruise, you have the limiter too. If you have the cruise settings on your indicator stalk, you should have a button on the bottom of the stalk which toggles between the limiter and cruise.

I'm aware, just sharing my experience with my model, which might be relevant to his issue.