MrSecretPotato

Highly doubt it's tyres, as I swapped mine and the noise is still there. Tyres don't care about RPM, but speed. You can do 50mph with 1300, and also 10mph with 1300.

I have the same in my older 2018 plate, 1.6 TDI manual at around 1300 RPM. Gets worse when the car is going uphill around said RPM, but almost nothing when the engine is not under load. Had it since I got the car, usually I just work around it. It's similar to the sound what you would have if you're in too low gear for your speed but just the vibration part, the car is not shaking. No vibration between 800-1200, present around 1200-1300, and nothing again over 1300. I don't know much about cars, but I also noticed a quite noticeable jolt when starting the engine, as it cranks, which makes me think something might be up with the engine mounts.

Ah I get it now. There might be an option within VCDS to disable this screen but I don’t think.

I don't think it's possible to remove that summary screen. You can individually turn off screens from the scroll menu on the driver display through the infotainment, but you cannot remove the screen at the end. But if you don't mind me asking, how are you obsessed with consumption but not wanting to see the data?

The only way to disable this behaviour would be to code it out via VCDS or alike. I've got Bosch wiper on the back, no sound at all, even on a dry glass.

Ah you want to disable it permanently. If I remember correctly I saw something related to this when I was looking through the VCDS options. The only downside that this would turn it off completely until you code it back in again, you wouldn't be able to just turn it on-off in the settings.

I believe there should be a small arrow on the right side of the overlay, which is visible on the left side of the screen to "collapse" the parking sensor view.

If you're using the remote lock/unlock feature, pay for it, otherwise it's pretty useless as your phone does everything what the car, but better and for free.

VCDS is not the same as a simple OBD2 scanner. To my knowledge, Carista, Carly or OBDEleven is not capable of coding these functions, but I might be mistaken. Not sure if this is working, as the post said it needs confirming, but here are the steps for Lane Keeping Assist: #6 (clubskodakaroq.es) This is the link to enable Traffic Sign Recognition: #10 (clubskodakaroq.es) You can find many more features that you can enable, however do everything at your own risk. Before you do any changes to any coding using VCDS, do a full Auto-Scan and save the file securely in order to be able to revert any changes made. VCDS is fairly smart and makes it very hard to mess up the coding, but sometimes it can happen that you code something badly, and it won't work properly,

I've only had experience with WV (Skoda is same or very similar) and Peugeot with AdBlue. Latter is horrible with it. It's a company car, and almost every time it's time to fill the AdBlue tank, throws all sorts of errors and emission faults. Garage visit needed to fix it (not sure what they're doing with it). Also on the Peugeot, the range is a lot less than on the Skoda. On my Karoq, 10litres of AdBlue is for around 5-7000 miles depending on the usage. I do service every 6k miles, with that the AdBlue gets topped up. Not a single fault or issue so far with the system on the Karoq, apart from the reminder message from the 1000 mile mark. It is certainly possible to map it out, but until it's giving me a headache, I'm not planning to do it.

There's a fairly thorough thread already about it on the Guides sub forum, visible below. Give it a quick read, and please note the position of the curtain airbags if you decide to route your cable like that. Most people use fuse 47 for ACC(Rear wiper - ignition switched), fuse 40 for BAT(Rear 12V socket - always live). The GND is a bolt, visible in the thread's first post, just below the main fuse box. Alternatively, you can use the suggested OBD port power cable as suggested above for an easier install.

FLAC files can be played on mobile devices. You might need an additional app to play them, but they definitely support FLAC. VLC is one of those apps for example. You put the files onto your phone, start the playback in VLC and you can still utilise Waze and Android Auto/Carplay with a wired connection. This option requires a bit of setup, like moving the files, learning to use the app and configuring it, same for Android Auto/Carplay but it doesn't cost anything. The other option is to use a 12V usb charger for your phone. This is around a few £ only, you can get them on Amazon, eBay, even petrol stations. The headunit replacement is an absolute nightmare. Many of the Cara functions are tied to the headunit. You would get countless faults of the ECUs not being able to communicate with the system and so on. Most expensive and there most difficult if not impossible option.

Why not play the music from the phone while connected via cable (or wirelessly) to the car for Android Auto or Apple CarPlay? You can also use Waze for navigation, make calls easily, and play whatever music you want in whatever order. If you absolutely need to use the media player, then you need a 12V charger and a cable to keep your phone topped up so that the USB slot stays free for the media player.

Does your car have the front camera installed? THIS is what it should look like, notice the one triangle shape cut-out and the smaller circle shape below. If it's the circle only, You don't have the camera. It is possible that somebody tried to retrofit the camera and enabled the settings in the infotainment system and instrument cluster menus, but they won't actually do anything if the camera is not present, and it would produce the result what you described by not able to "grab" the ON position. If you have the camera, you might need to plug in a code reader to see what the problem really is. All you might be missing is a fault code reset (make sure to save the existing codes before deleting them).

I'm not sure what parts Skoda is using to replace the brakes, doubt that it's "Skoda" branded, but most likely it's the lower end of the choices as usual for cost savings. I usually get Bosch discs and pads. Never failed me, and they don't squeak. For thehandbrake bit: the car autoapplies the handbreak when you get turn the engine off, or open the driver side door with the engine running.

£500 is daylight robbery just for the front pair of pads and discs. The discs should be around £50-60 / wheel, and a set of 4 pads should be around the £50 mark too. The job is an hour worth roughly, especially just for the fronts. We're looking around £150 for parts, not the cheapest but also not the most expensive options. Paying a garage £350 for an hour worth of work is extortionate. Especially that you're not even paying the bloke who's sweating with your breaks, just some greasy haired guy in the office chair somewhere. I didn't even pay that much for labour for a gearbox replacement on my older car... Most other garages will do all 4 brakes for that much. You don't need to take the car to the dealer to do the servicing to keep the warranty.

Solution is to use Android Auto or CarPlay, so you don't have to sync.

The clock spring is a fairly old thing in the cars, the horn and steering wheel airbag was mostly done with these before the smart features. I'd say not turning the wheel lock to lock is a good way to prolong their life as this puts less stress on the wire. There is some slack built into them, around an extra half turn worth of wires, but not turning the wheel until it locks definitely helps.

It's basically how the steering wheel controls and anything that turns with the steering wheel connects to the rest of the car. This includes the horn, airbag, and all the buttons on the wheel itself, excluding the stalks which are stationary compared to the steering wheel. It's a spool of ribbon wire which allows you to turn the wheel about 2.5-3 full turns in each direction. When this ribbon wire breaks, the car cannot communicate with the modules on the wheel and that's what causing the errors to show up.

I have recently tried various stalks in order to retrofit AAC, the clock spring was included with the stalk assembly. Parts were from broken down cars, so used but they were around the £50-70 mark (spring and stalk assembly together). Fitting the spring only is around a 15 min job. I needed coding some extra coding and my VCDS was not capable to do the full coding, so I replaced the original parts for now.

Many of us have chosen a 3D printed replacement from Etsy/Ebay: Here's the search link for the Etsy page: Skoda Karoq Cup Holder - Etsy UK

If you feel a bit adventurous, you could give AliExpress a go, they offer the pair for £140. Looks like a simple replacement too based on the videos I looked at. I would definitely try this before. While I cannot check myself right now, according to the pictures the length looks identical, so you should be fine with replacing it with a gas operated one. The other question if it's going to show any sort of faults on the dash.

I'm fairly certain it's just a straight up module swap, no coding needed. If you would switch to the newer USB-C type, then you might need coding. Search "Skoda Karoq USB port" on eBay, you'll see a few results at around £40-50.

It'll be the port most likely. Can you see some debris in it by any chance? Cleaning it might help, but make sure not to use any metal or conductive material as shorting the pins might cause a fuse to blow or permanently damage it.

So what you're saying is basically the Auto Hold button controls the automatic handbrake application upon engine shut ott too? That is an interesting finding. I have my car for a year now, I turned Auto Hold on on the way home from the dealer and never turned it back off. It is such a convenient feature, that I don't have to worry about the handbrake anymore together with the Auto Hold. I can see how it can become a problem if you don't use the car every couple days, the handbrake mechanism can get stuck or stiff, especially in a climate like the UK has.