leolito

Pity for the mishap, at least it was recovered!

Interesting topic ... I have noticed the "shortening" of the brake fluid interval and I wonder if it can be influenced by the more use of the brakes themselves by the ACC/PCC systems. My front wipers are starting to leave streaks, they are 2yrs Bosch ones, so each case is different ... woman Lexus, 2.5yrs/23-24k km Denso OEM. I am replacing the coolant for another vehicle, Dynamax and in the label it says "replace every three years" and I am wondering howe conflicting all these information are, imagine if you are uaware and rely like the OP in a less-than-stellar dealer ... mah

Don't despair! Provided that the leather is still in place, this means no visible "cracks" on it, or patched areas where it is gone, it is possible to coat it with specific paints for leather. I have done this multiple times on mine and customer's vehicles, and with good quality products you can recuperate the "new look" appearance, paints are available in both matt and shiny finish depending on the car spec. It requires professional application, with proper paint gun, hardener, etc. I use the services of a "leather clinic" that specializes only in this. Also seats and door panels can be brought back to new, much better solution especially when you want to preserve the original materials and patterns of the trim, not always available to people that make upholstery, and it will thus look "remade" .... Provided you take good care of it*, the results are years of operation no problem. I started dealing with these like 15yr ago and I am yet to see a bad result. You guys in UK got a tremendous tradition of restoration and bespoke works, I am sure there must be someone there that can do the job. To make life easier, I usually take out the wheel or seats/panels and take them to thw workshop, they always appreciate it so I get discounts and somewhat "prefential treatment" .... 😁 * keep it clean, but don't use the wet wipes you use for the hands! if you have sweaty hands (I do) consider mittens or keep a towel/rag handy and wipe them often; take jewellery out if you can. when I am doing "dirty work" i often remove watch and ring, and now most of the times I am without them (less things to worry about) use a leather cleaner/conditioner at least yearly if you use the car little, or 6 months if you daily have the same towel/rag to put on the wheel when you leave it parked in the sun Simple steps that take no effort and prolong life of your equipment, always a saving at the end of the day 🙂 Sorry for the long post

Mine is also well so far, on its 5yr and 55k km, but the OP is correct you can "sense" a certain lack of robustness in some materials. Is not just a "Skoda vs. Audi" thing, if you have the opporunity like I had to compare carefully the interiors of a 1991 W126 S-klasse with those of a 2021 W223 S-klasse, after the initial "wow" effect because of the cacophony of technological features it emerges the same impression of flimsiness and plasticky feeling that makes you say "this will not last 30 years of use and abuse". Sign of the times, we have to go along with it as well. I've had indiect experience with the dreadful "chrome peeling" on mates Superb 2, Octavia 3, etc.

I quote only part of the post, but very informative overall. I have finally taken the time to do these tasks - except the "coating", read further - when season comes, and swapping of summer/winter trains takes place. After the recent rear pad replacement in the 280, I am going to add also "remove caliper pins, check and grease them" at least every couple years ... However, I am lacking in the 'coating department'. While I have no issues with the car itself (I have this covered) I was wondering about adding more to the rims' aspect. Is not that I want "showroom" or "looking perfect", is that having wheels refurbished has become insanely expensive, and nevermind the deterioration of the quality of the work has followed suit. So is not just "to look good", but also to delay to the maximum extent the inevitable .... On another place I have been recommended this product, what you guys say? Carbon Collective | Ceramic Coat...Platinum Wheels Ceramic Coating - Carbon Collective | Cer...

If your car has also DSG, there are also interconnectivity problems with the gearbox as well, but I think your is manual, right? You best chance, if you really want to embark in thar journey (heed the advice written above!) is to replace your unit with an equivalent "family" powerplant. This way, you minimize issues arising from a different engine management system, etc. In your case, I would look for a 2.0tdi of the same lineage, would certainly not "downgrade" to an older PD unit - nothing about about them, just too older a powerplant for your vehicle.

On a recent trip, I've noticed I cannot alternate between heat/ventilation for the passenger, but it works fine for the driver. Diagnostics does not show any errors ... mistery.

Different situation, but same question, I was thinking could it be that fitting Scout parts to a regular SIII makes it a "lifted" Superb? I think only shocks and coils are the difference ... maybe suspension arms? I doubt it ... I think they just "elongated" coils and shocks and slap all that plastic cladding around and .. that lovely wood inside, unfortunately not available for other trim options ...

I wanted since a while to ask this, but I always forget. Last time when I made our equivalent to the MOT I was asked for the fire extinguisher, which was in a plastic zipper bag under the main luggage floor deck, it is one of these easily available in the stores ones, nothing special. But it gor me wondering and gave the idea to ask fellow members here, who have one - either because it is mandated or because of choice - and if you do, where do you keep it? I also noticed Skoda offers an OE accessory option for this, here is the diagram https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/0/011/11011 and I can imagine this fits under the drivers' seat, like ze German counterparts. Driven by impulse, I went ahead and order one of these brackets but now I got wondering that I have the Canton system and might not fit, also another question to whoever who eventually does have this fitted. Thanks!

I'm (not) that thick, but if you got a broken seal you should have a leak, even a weep, from there. I did %$#% a EPB caliper once by not doing the right procedure, but I was lucky not to have hydraulic damage - a 2nd hand motor was needed instead, plenty bad. I have one of my resto projects with ruined rear seals, and they do weep, and when you act on the brakes fluid just gushes out. Or am I missing something?

My grandpa used to say that even the best hunter sometimes loses its game ... oh well. I second the above, do not despair and run a full bleed before going around to swap parts, but I think you need VCDS for that as well, if you got air inside the ABS I believe is not self-purging. Someone here has done this job and hope chimes in.

I've done a few swaps in my "nut&bolt" career, both in auto shops and of the "shade tree mechanic" variety, and while never on such a newer car (newest was at least 10y), the only case in which I witness a "plug&play" situation was with a CLK W209 which went from 240 M112 to 500 M113 reutilizing the same engine loom, all the other cases always needed some electrical attention. And even this case required the donor car's ECU, keys complete with ignition switch to overcome immobilizer, and proper diagnostic tools to "reprogram" the car's system to accept the new powerplant. So I would suggest that at least you would a donor car complete with that to start with. You could try to run another engine with your ECU, but is a gamble as it depends on the "closeness" of the two units. I've modified Audi AANs (S6 2.2 20vt 230cv) into "ADU" RS2 configuration (315cv) just changing the necessary hardware and swapping the ECUs, but those engines are/were enough "dumb" to deal with a simplified send/receive/accept data. If you deal with an ODB-compliant unit swap, you will need surely to have VCDS or equivalent to synchronize the other car's ECUs to it, and there is not guarantee you will succeed if your car has the dreadful SFD or other component protection active. In my experience, VAG cars are a mixed bag, some things are straighforward, some others a nightmare.... not the easiest to play with, but there is plenty info around. Make some homework and then decide. However .... reading the above I can't understand who diagnosed and repaired your engine, that still does not work fine. Unless your engine condition is terminal and the overhaul is extremely costly, or you desire higher power unattainable by some hardware/software tuning work, I would look into getting your unit properly repaired before an improbable swap ... Don't forget also whatever you find out there might need work as well! Unless you are extremely lucky to find a cherished car with low miles that had the bad luck of a bad crash - rear better, most cars in a junk yard are past their prime, and there is a reason why they were thrown there ...

My experience with 3rd party warranty is that you must hammer them at every opportunity, as they try to find any escamotage to avoid honor said warranty ... I would file a claim and put them to work!

Described above the boundaries of engagement of the system, but what it cannot be "predicted" is when the reaction will occur, since it depends on speed (both of the vehicle and relative to the other vehicles), distance to close objects, etc. I have had situations in which the system gave the warning "Brake!" when close to other vehicles at speed, but some other times in similar situations it hasn't, so there must be some calculations that the computer makes before taking action. The total complete and utter stop I have only experienced in manouvering, the first time was the first ever drive ... I put reverse getting it out of the tow truck that brought the car and a guy dashed right behind me, beeps and blinks and the car just squatted down and stop ... it was love at first moment 🥰 I had on the summer a funny situation, I had a parking cell on a place where i had a steep ramp to go, while at the same time negotiating a 90 tight turn, all in reverse, but with 2-3 corrections forward as needed. Superb-a was not liking it at all ... I had to disable the parking system every time I flick in R. Is good to know car has some form of self-preservation ... just to stay like that and don't go Skynet on me and "terminate" the driver when he makes silly manouvers 😁

Don't have pics, but it is easy to explain .... on the rear of the calipers, you must access the bolts. You can see the "end" of the bolt in the outer area of the caliper, one above it, one below it. There are two plastic covers, then the bolt is accessed, in my case was a hex 6 or 7. The bolt is actually a threaded pin ... here is what it looks like: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/251615219sad-set-of-guide-cases-european-union-27191.html and the pin slides back and forth in the rubber, which if greased it allows sliding, if is not, it restricts or inhibits proper movement of the caliper ... that is all 🙂

Forgot to mention about the brakes ... the slider pin section of the caliper bolts were bone dry, with a solidified hint of a dab of grease put long time ago. Once properly cleaned with scotchbrite and greased, the movement within the support was like .... night and day. I was surprised because usually I see this in much much older and more "traveled" vehicles .... I recommend to all of ya that have passed some years or mileage, set aside some time, especially if your swap tires, to remove bolts and verify, and ensure are in proper maintained condition! It is a simple job, does not require specialized tools, just some patience and care.

JR, obviously I went off with a bad start by not reading properly what I was getting into. This said, after my initial - negative - impression I left it aside in a limbo. Later on I will pick it up again as see what to do with it and how to continue, if 😉

No ... I always imagine those moments with the typical boardroom meeting and someone asks the head of stock - "how much is left of the old stuff?" - "plenty!!" - "phase it out evenly then!"

I apologize to my mates for delaying so much, I had forgotten about posting the photos with the 'summer' 18s, running 225/50 Against big thanks to Carlston whose details and information are always exemplary, to help me choose the right combo ... love the way these wheels look, and the balance of perfomance and comfort of the /50 profile is .... Superb! Only one drawback though - as we had discussed preventively https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/478950-what-size-wheelstyres-will-fit-to-superb-iii/page/5/ - these are too much tuck in ... I am not a fan of spacers, but are there any which are slim enough to fit with the OE bolts? Being these rims ET43, just to bring them to the edge of the wheelarches and get a "chunkier" look, maybe will also behave better on the road but can't tell ... In any case I am delighted ❤️

Mentioned elsewhere, now running Fuchs GT1 on 5W-40.

Besides engine oil, mentioned elsewhere, I replaced rear brake pads, installing ATE Ceramic - I am following travs' steps, but there are a loooot of steps 😁 Old pads were worn to the middle where the "indent" disappears. I have no idea of when they were replaced, they were ATE so I guess not original? Although the car was in warranty? Mistery .... They could have lasted a while more, but I got several long-distance journeys planned ahead and I might not be able to plan maintenance when required, so I had the chance now and leave it out of the list. I had seen where somewhat worn when I put the summers, so it was in the list "to do". Brake feel has instantly changed - more responsive, exactly what I was kind of "missing" if you understand ... When I get the swap to winters with check fronts - begininning of the season were ok - and plan accordingly. I got also the coolant "ready" from VW but I was at my friend's service and had forgotten to take the VCDS with me, so I could not know if there is an option to open any valves/pumps, so worked with the vacuum pump we must have done what I reckon is an incomplete drain/fill, circa 4 liters went in against ... I could not find what the capacity is. Well, the type is the same, for now it'll do. If I have time will go at it again.

Yes, different oils could "work" differenlty, sometimes engine is noisier, sometimes is not ... lubricant mistery! I am now running Fuchs Totan GT1 Flex 3 on 5W-40, which responds to both ACEA C3 and API SN required ... will see how it goes, in any case will not last much as I expect quite a lot of traveling in the next few months.

No, hurt no, but is bothersome to pay to buy something and then to keep paying for using it. I pay a good sum to get OBD11 thinking it would make things that VCDS can't do, or do them easier, and I've found out not only it does not do them, but also requires you pay yearly for it ... so what is the advantage? We are not talking like a subscription to a service, or a memebership like FREEDOM, where you (gladly!) pay a sum to receive a benefit, we are talking just to use it to do more than any cellphone app can do with a Chinese OBD BT port, worth a few quid ... mah. The oher 4/5 times I've tried in other vehicles, only once succeded to connect, so it proved also unreliable. My experience is thus negative, compared with others - see Martini how many adaptations he has made in the years - but is just me ... I see it soon in the marketplace .... when I get the time for it. Not that VCDS is all roses! For around 15 years now, I have always been a supporter, but the move to a "selectable user category" business model leaves me quite bitter, and I believe is a setback for non-professional users but that still deal with more than one vehicle. The limitation to three vehicles is too restrictive, other diagnostics - say Nanocom for example - work with up to 5 vehicles, which in my view is it way more than reasonable to still deter "car repairers wanabees" from over-doing it. But whatever, is Ross-Tech's business decision and they must have calculated wins and losses .... two of my mates have gone elsewhere ... the pity is that they spent similar money, so it is not the price per se, but the way.... Whatever - end rant. This reminds me I still need to post my old VCDS as well, time for it so serve a new master 🙂

Sure is not the way you "feel" it? I initially thought like you, but then I see traveling long journey, thus with enough time to try well all three settings, that there is no variation in the "flow", o "suction", so probably is the heat impression we have ... I remember reading that FL brought the 272 engine version, without the flaps, and then in some moment it became again 280 with the GPF, with a 'D', but I believe the first two are 'C' thus Gen3.

I am wondering on what JR wrote above .... if is so complicated to find Odis Modus and Otis to get this forsaken slider mod done, what about stuffing the entire Passat/Arteon module "as is" and see? Probably will need only VCDS for adaptation, or again is "protected"? I do not even know tow hom to ask ... but I could look in the breakers for a module.