leolito

They are on my radar ... I am at 60k km time for them. Would this be ok for mine (our) engine type?

Now I am thrown in disarray ... this subject is more than what it seems ... A link to illustrate that this what you are mentioning is really more under the surface: Not to hijack too much, probably in the case of a car wheel we might never reach a lever of catastrophic failure ... there are 100s of other things in a VAG product that will probably fail earlier! 😁 But now I am really re-thinking the approach ... Hex TechnologyBolt Lubricant and Torque: A Comprehensive Guide - Hex Te...Bolt lubricant plays an important role during both the assembly and disassembly of a joint. Learn proper lubrication techniques and how they affect torque

I bought instead 10mm from Eibach and also longer bolts, however after a quick fit, I don't mind winter tires to "tuck in" so it reduces the amount of road spray and overall dirtiness (here winter is ... winterish, and especially dirtiesh!) so for now they stay on the shelf. Will see in spring, hoping I don't misplace them by then!

And is not a small "unknown" ... so it makes sense to stick to the spec, but I would also consult on what basis they advice the change, after the tuning.

I had a function in mine that was something like "gesturing don't know what" and it was making things happening like if you do not touch something but it takes the action ... I do not know how to explain it, but it was together with the echo one of the very first settings I changed and I never had issues since ....

All the above advice is applicable - as usual! But it is a minefield ... it is not difficult to find a xW40 oil that will meet the VW504/507 spec, it is impossible. There are none ... only 0W-30 and 5W-30, in both "normal" and "long life" variantes. There are a number of topics debating the subject, mine theory is that VW geared the engines and the specs towards LL oils that are of lower viscosity and thus diminish emissions and consumption ... and probably fitted a "lighter oil pump" i suspect. The owners manual states: Petrol engines: VW 504 00, VW 502 00, VW 508 00, ACEA A3/ACEA B4 or API SN, (API SM) Keep in mind VW504/507 is the manufacturer approval, but not the lubricant specification, which is the ACEA A3/ACEA B4 or C3 for Diesel ..... a good oil matching that should be equivalent. You also have to cross-check the "approvals" for example, because an oil corresponding to 504/507 like the Edge 0W-30 or the Shell Helix Ultra are both "approved" 504/507 but then are C3 which is NOT listed in the OM as the spec for petrol engines ... since are NOT A3/B4. Yo should also cross-check with relevant other approvals, like equivalent MB 229.51/229.52 or Porsche C30, because it is not a given that the same oil manufacturer "offered" to all car manufacturers their oil for "approval", of they might not be in bed with them to promote a specific product/brand! Like see the French with their Elf/Total, Fiat with Agip and so on. If all this has been enough to give you a headache, you're welcome! I have never been so confused by something so simple in an industry that has managed to complicate even the simpler aspects of their basics! For now and the cold season, I found a good offer for OE VW LL in 0W-30 and will put this, then when the hotter period comes will think again ... Probably the Fuchs Titan SuperSyn in 0W-40, which is not 504/507 but it is A3/B4 Here are the specs to compare with the OE oils, I would do it now but the dog is dragging me to go take her for a walk 😁 https://www.vantagelubricants.com/upload/product/declaration/gbr/pds/SSLL04.pdf

In my car the clock is displayed when the infotainment unit is off, that should be the first "button" on the screen on the left side. Can it be that for some reason the unit switched off, or it did not start together with the car? If I leave mine off, it stays off and displays only the clock. If I leave it on, then it starts with the car, takes a while to load the profile and then the menu appears. The speech echo thing I took it off like immediately on the first trip with passengers and never reactivated since, so I cannot tell....

A driveshaft could very well produce such vibration (just had a mate replacing the front one on his Def 90), and as "power induced" would stop when the driving force (engine power) stops. Not having a clutch we cannot try it otherwise ... How much is the mileage? Since this is not a very high demand item, I guess the price is high ... you could try to source one a second hand from a breaker, cheaper than the new option eventually?

😬 I was not into the details of that, I honestly never had an issue in years ... will keep in mind, I can try cleaning well the threads next time instead

DSG oil replacement made, I took it to a service that works only on these things and recommended by reliable sources, according to them it was in good condition and good for the driven 60k km .... they said according to them no adaptation was needed, that sometimes would work worse when done if no component was replaced. This is new territory for me so no idea on that. For now, it works well so do not risk breaking what is not broken ... PS: the bill came close to 500 euro ... original VW oil used (seen in action) ... oh well. It makes around 1 eurocent per km traveled 🙃

I have no idea, but here is a link to the diagram where the microphone is shown https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/0/035/35003 Try to search in the "projects" or "guides" sections, maybe someone has taken the trim off and this can be of use.

That is impressive!! 🫡

I just did this replacement yesterday, but since I had fit the other set myself everything came easy. I always use a long piece of pipe as a breaker bar to loosen anyway, so I save the effort of the power tool (accu parkside from lidl is actually good). Before refitting, a dab of copper grease on the nut threads and on the flange surface of the rim to hub is ideal to prevent corrosion and to make the job easier next time! When refitting, I go first by hand a couple turns, then power tool or by ratchet as it comes. If you have access to a torque wrench, try to tighten "by hand" and then measure how you did, this will give you an idea for that day you will be replacing a flat tire .... This time I decided to use only the car tools, to know what to expect in case of a flat tire, as I've never use the jack before ... good to try 🙃

Time for spark plugs ... any recommendations? I am also for oil change, being ... "winter" I will go back to the 0W-30 spec.

Long absent from these pages, finally I had time yesterday to fit the winter wheels/tires, as these protrude OK on the sides I decided not to put the spacers - will see next spring! Before fitting, I have coated the rims with this Carbon Ceramic product, nothing to "shine" like to make photos, but time will tell how they resist road grime! Checked the front brakes and soon will be time for them as I did the rears, pads have OE/VW markings on them, so if swapped, at least +20k km .... as I have lost the way from my mentor 😁 will continue with the ATE Ceramic as I like how they go! I forgot to do this before - at least at each season change, ideally - so I checked the space saver tire and it was less than half of the recommended tire pressure... easy to forget, bad thing. I also noticed the "normal sized" tires do not fit the wheel well because of the plastic lip, which I will trim but will have to wait when I start to insulate the boot, soon I hope. Tonight I got DSG fluid replacement, its first! Will see how it goes! Edit: next should be Haldex and diff ....

Well, if the "beam" area did not cave in with the weight of the car, no, I believe you did not damage anything 😄 I would however haved moved the stand forward than you did, to have the car rest on the bolt of the subframe, which I believe is structurally more robust.

Mine does the same "coastal wind" noise, not always, but very annoying when it does. Initially it sounded like a tweeter was failing and thus like a "gr gr gr gr" noise, but it is not that. The area is right behind the tweeter/door handle, I checked wing mirror, not that. Should check the door seal. On mine the noise is on passenger side - driver's side for those with the steering on the wrong side ... 😁

Going very technically, a well done elimination of exhaust components reduces "obstacles" to the flow of gasses out of the car, which would theoretically assist in increasing extraction speed and help the turbo spool earlier and better. In performance applications, of course. Other than bringing annoying drone and noise, of course! 😄

I do not know where the antennas for the kessy are located in our cars, I had to work time ago on an A8 D3 which had problems and I found four outside antennas, two each behind the bumpers, and the other two at the sides - around the B-pillar. This in addition to the handle buttons. If a similar setup is used, there is no way a key left in the boot would not be detected by the antenna there. And no, if it is ramdom you can open/close a zillion times, and will not do it, just to drive you mad ...🙃

You can hold up the B.S. sign on that. As described, the auto/re-lock feature - which isn't an exclusivity to Skoda or VAG cars, works the same on whatever brand with keyless systems, the only variation is some vhicles offer the option to set the interval, like 30s, 60s, and so on. If the key is in AND is detected, car should beep upon trying to lock or should indicate a mis-lock, either visually or acoustically, depending on how is set up. I have other two kessy cars in my stable, the most primitive being a K12 Micra which is 21 years old, and the system works as described, flawlessly. However, the #$@@#$# Superb has started on this random locking as indicated in all the posts above over the past few weeks, whether is with me inside or no, sometimes when closing a door, and so on. Example: open the car - with button or handle don't matter - oper rear door, leave my bag or jacket in rear seat, close door, STRAK! car locks. Now if you leave rear door open and open front door, then it does not, although sometimes it will attempt if I close the driver's door AND another door is open. I have already been left outside a couple times and had to resort to external assistance to get another key brought to me or go get it, so now I NEVER ever leave the darn key inside. Armed with VCDS, I've scanned the car a few times, first couple would not get anything, but last time I got the following faults: 196665 Switch for Central Locking - Signal Implausible 196652 Mirror selector switch - Signal Implausible Now, since I also noticed the Mirror switch is acting up, sometimes mirrors would not deploy or retract on command - they work normally if the car is opened or closed with the locking system, I have to find some time and look into the door itself, switches and/or possibile the lock in the door. I would suggest to those with this problem to plug in a diagnostic and check if there is not a fault that can be traced back to some component or the wiring, regardless of any software update that might be. It has to be a pretty interesting "bug" that would allow this to happen, but I put my coin in an electric failure of some kind. Update will follow! Sorry for the long post ...

We wait for developments! I believe with better components, as many have done replacing, this aspect of the car can be much improved! @cnc I also like comfort, but the bounciness is not really desirable, besides being uncomfortable, it stresses many components in an unneccessary manner... the Superb's suspension - at least mine with DCC - allows too much body movement, i had a similar case on one of my earlier Audis and it was not very pleasant, especially when towing 🫣

It would be hilarious hear the report on your conversation with an officer that inquires what are you doing lurking in the mall parking lot around other people's property 😄 Mine is floaty, bouncy, and I believe severely underdamped for such a large and heavy barge (DCC). It would be interesting to hear if someone has had a ride on a higher-spec richer cousin of the VAG family like an Arteon to see if this is really a design shortcoming or was simply installation of cheaper components ... I suspect the latter, as the car in Sport mode is reasonably firm and very balanced (I am in Sport 90% of the time, also to prevent the dreaded DSG retarded driving mode). I also plan to upgrade when the moment comes, pity we are still in the dark for the slider mod ... ☹️

I noticed this as well, and my theory is that they designed the system with a brake "bias" to load first and more the rear to minimize dive on braking, especially when ACC/PCC controls the car and applies brakes at its will. Why I wouldn't say, but I suspect to minimize the terror in the passengers unaware of simple physics and vehicle dynamics and going at each time for the "Oh Jesus" handle which probably does not hold weight "like they used to" 😁 If you drive, even with ACC/PCC on, more "proactively", for example say you are coming up on the motorway to a bottleneck - typical HGVs passing each other with a 0.6km/h speed difference 😄 - lowering the target speed earlier I feel car uses only throttle closed/engine braking, and does not touch, or touches very lightly the brakes, and in that case I still suspect are only the rears.

If you can trust this - so far is been reliable - it states same oil for front and rear, 75W-90 however. https://ato24.de/en/oil-finder-page?type_id=107784

@zacko_O those are very nice! 😁