leolito

This is quite correct also ... I was discussing this just yesterday with one of my mates, a good wrencher-turner ... it has become quite difficult to navigate in between the choices available today, good, bad, and with so many commercial channels available ... a quest in itself!

Yes, considering the general random packaging, is good to disguise the items ... "honey don't worry for the delivery pickup/collection (depending on your case), I will pass by/I will be home!" 😁

True, but since you also get always good advice, you end up not wasting it in the wrong products ... I do not know how that could work as a justification, but ... I keep it handy 😄

No less than that ... i got Kodiaq wheels (cannot find the post, sorry) with a smaller channel and ET43 and I will add spacers come spring, as they look a bit "too in"

That is correct, we lost the valve, gained a gear, and the GPF and more restrictive options. Some win, some lose.

Any garage that specializes in modern cars can run a quick "autoscan", to be sure. But you could also be missing some update ... to the maps maybe? Any of the gurus in the forum, how do the maps' info and the cruise interact? If they do at all, that is ...

I have the same message in some opportunities, and when traveling across Europe in entering some of the countries (say SRB, for example). However in my case, I have noticed the PDCC works anyway, in what regards speed/distance control, but it does not work interactively with the road itself, which I never managed to understand how it does - probably by GPS. In some newer sections of the road network, or when I travel "West", it works without messages, and the car will, for example, dimish the speed approaching turns, etc. - and it shows in the display. You could run a diagnostic check to exclude any fault in the system, but this is my case.

Only suggestion is to calculate the smaller width of the rim against the ET, to make sure you do not foul the calipers when fitted, specially the fronts. Better test would be "live", but this requires other efforts as you can imagine 😄

Beyond looks, it makes wonders to keep the vehicle in order. I am a 'converted, as I have seen that a good coating protects the skin of the car much more than just "shine"* Unfortunately I do not have the tools of place where to do this myself, but I was lucky to find very good professionals at this, and they do not overcharge me as I also give them some work from third parties ... * to give you an idea, years ago I had to "resuscitate" a W126 which had been sleeping for years in a enclosed are where they were also doing paint and metal work ... paint, but also glass and chrome had all a "crusty" feel, like sandpaper. Luckily no stain or damage to the finish, but horrible to see and touch. My man looked at it, frowned a little (always does it!), said "I will need a couple days more than the usual", and returned the Merc looking like it came out of the showroom ... marvelous. Yes, I believe in good detail and proper "waxwork" 😁

I am also noticing the (positive) effect of the ceramic coating, recommended! 😉

Hi, probably you can check these two - one link was embedded inside, I put it here separately: https://www.drive2.ru/l/659269097233580313/ And finally, yes the Canton is nice system, but it does lack "punch". It is inevitable, most modern systems go into this "balanced ambiance theater effect" which is fantastic, but obviously misses the "stadium rock" feel .... Play with the settings and see if you can make it a lil better. It is also very sensible to whatever music you play, how it is encoded, and so on. In any case, I have a friend that works with some pro audio stuff (both car and home/studio) and has mentioned to me it seems to be undersized, so to expect a "support to sound" but not really to take the stage as a main driver...

I've stopped smoking in cars since a million years ago, exactly because of the foul smell. I've also quit numerous times, but I always get back ... darn ☹️

Alas, not knowing in detail how the suspension setup is made, it is difficult to tell. Everything depends on what makes the suspension travel "end" in extension - wether is the coil, or the shock. On most of the cars I have worked, the shock is longer than the coil, which means even at full 'drop' you will not be able to release the pressure of the coil. Must detach first the shock, and then you can have the suspension arm "free" which means the top can be released without launching of parts everywhere, which can be very dangerous. On my older Audi C4s the shock is incorporated in the strut, and accessible from the top ... you can even renew shock or upper bushes with the wheels in situ! I think an easy check is to, lacking anyone that has done it who can fill in, to lift one corner and with a breaker bar to "push" further down the suspension ...you kinda get a feeling. Me I would in any case release the shock if possible, I always get a bad feeling when they are at the maximum extension ...

After I got the Superb, I was forced to upgrade to a newer VCDS. I kept this for occasional use here and there with my older Audi and friends' cars, but now it is time for it to move on. This is the HEX-CAN version which was before Ross-Tech came up with their fangled approach to limit VINs. This one is exempted, I bought this new from Gendan, it has had very little use as support to my business when I was dealing with cars, not everyday torture in any case. Cable is in excellent condition, no bent/corrored pins. Most of the time I was using the older 2x2 adpater and this has taken the brunt of the effort. Transporter cable has never been used. I provide all the paperwork and obviously to another Briskodian will provide full support in case anything is needed later on with Gendan. Maket for these varies all over the place, but I am looking at 200GBP as a reasonable price. I am open to sensible offers. Price includes the delivery to England and Scotland for sure, need to ask for the rest of the UK. Ask me for details, is logistically not very simple, but it is in, and hope will make the sale more palatable. Thanks!

That is def not normal ... but more than the return spring sticking, sounds like a valve or switch as mentioned above.... Try to do the same test but this time using your hand instead of the foot? This way, first you are closer to the source of the noise, and second with the hand is usually easier to "modulate" the effort and try different levels of said effort. For this is necessary to - here I get to my favorite part 😄- make sure the footwell and area is clean - pedal as well - you can remove the floor mat and use it for your knees, and then assume the ritualistic posiiton of kneeling down in position to Mladá Boleslav and enter part of the body in the driver's hole. Based on your experience and interest, and also physical size and atheltic shape, you can enter in the basic kneel/prone position, or you can employ the side-snake approach, or in extreme cases - say when you have to deal with a brake switch, ask me how I know - you get to the highest level of contorsionism, the break-your-back over the door sill, standing on your back and propping your butt up. Besides releasing a flush of swear energy and thoughts about yourself and your place in the order of things in the universe, making a mental note to call immediately your chiropractor to sort your back, better still, some nice and gentle masseuse, it makes also a good leg workout! Making this in your driveway with neighbours passing or popping by makes it for an interesting scene, and will cement your status among them as a weird individual, a person with too much of a problematic car, or in any case someone perhaps to avoid - which is not necessarily a bad thing! Sorry the tone is just to remove drama ...🙂

Never enough time, but I managed to do a quick one fitting the rubber 'z' seals on the leading edge of the front doors, and a thicker 'c' rubber (with a metal strip) on the leading edge of the rear doors. Will try to make some decent photo .... So far, after a few dozen km in inclement weather, all remained in place, and the door pillars stay clean! Been unable to notice improvement in the noise though .... I noticed, to my horror, that the central vent grille above the screen has a broken 'lever', this means the right vent does not move side to side, only up and down. Tell me is not a dash down job and I can lever the vents' assy outside... I have only the "General body repairs workshop manual", but this is in some other section .... Next in the list: spark plugs, haldex screen, maybe finally the dogbone ...

All the above written is correct, except 'Ferodo' and not 'FeRRodo" but we forgive him because he has left us ... 😁 I have never seen "long life" brake/clutch fluid ... don't trust that. Some brands come in 500ml containers, also useful, considering the limited shelf-life of the product once opened ...

I am not surprised ... I am lil above 5-0 and dealing with cars half of those years, and sometimes I still embattle with "people in the trade" who sustain things like "coolant is for life" and such ... oh well. So it is ... Unfortunately you will not find this in the owner's manual, as it is "left to the dealer". For fluid, any good DOT4 will do (I favor ATE or Febi, in any case renown products). Capacity should be ... with one liter you will have more than enough, I seem to remember overall fill from empty was 1-1.15lt, but there is alway some left. You need diagnostic system to open/close the ABS pump though, so maybe some assistance will be needed.

This topic borders the surreal 🙃 But then again, brake (and clutch, by extension) fluid is something rarely taken care outside of the realm of the "fanatics" ... pity. Because the consequences can be dramatic. A point not extensively explained after the earlier topic referencing an accident, is that by being hygroscopic, the fluid will absorb moisture in the air (not the air), which will not only diminish the boiling temp of the fluid, but will act like an accelerated corrosive element especially in the most critical, closer to the calipers, and the one that heats the most in hard braking. At minimum, you an see the fluid color ... if lot limpid and honey-like, is well enough past replacement. And its cost is negigible .... Another extremely neglected item: coolant! But let's leave that for another topic.... Amazing ZJZ you escaped for so long this aspect of motoring ... 🤪

The power of music!!! 😁 Great topic, thnks!

Here in my very dirty latitudes, I took a habit I've learned from professional autowashing centers, this is to open the doors while you are washing, and go well around the edges of the doors, and in between the pillars and doors as well. If you do it right, or if the powerwash has an power on-power off option so you can lower the pressure, very little water will get in, but you go along cleaning as much as you can difficult areas, like this one reference here. Great tip to "feel" the seals, thanks!

I have always loaded as you say ... traveling in places where the various administrations and border controls are very ... curious about everything, the less is on sight, the better it is. Even if you have nothing to hide, is just a hassle. The best setup: not to pass the luggage cover level, and no bulky stuff on the seats 😉

That is another valid option. Thanks to your traitorous departure 😄we can get some insight on the Kodiaq ... kidding! Always a pleasure to see you around here, should come more often! I agree, on all points, you could consider a Kodiaq 1 some sort of .... enlarged Tiguan. And there appears a few coming in the used car market. Out of the crowd in my apartment's complex, I got a neighbour with a Kodiaq 1, two with Tiguans, one normal one Allspace, and myself with the Superb. Interior wise, between the two Skodas there is not much of a difference, space is very similar. I though the rear legroom would be more, but the higher roofline of the SUV makes up for it. As for the cargo area, it is shorter, but taller. You make your choice, for certain things is better. The loading area is higher though, keep in mind for heavy things. As opposed to Bap above, I almost never take off the vario floor, on long trips I distribute there everything that I can "separate", is practical like that. Takes a bit more time to load and unload, with lots of "fragmented" pieces of luggage, but it keeps the boot tidier, in my opinion. I think you could look for some adverts in the region and tell your daughter to go for a test drive on one of those as well, to put in the mix another option. Personally I would have gone for such - makes sense as the earlier runabout was a P38 Range Rover, very similar in size overall to the Kodiaq - but I wanted to move away from a SUV.

I can only offer some insights from my almost 20 months' ownership, and I had over the holidays a Tiguan as a rental, a 6-speed DSG Allspace which was either a 1.4 or 1.5 150cv, for like 10 days.... Space-wise, the Superb will be more than adequate, it is cavernous for both people and cargo. Sometimes the boot's length means awkwards contorsions to get to stuff on the far end - towards the backrest. Having a lower roofline, the capacity to put "tall" stuff (say, a suitcase on its short end) is compromised. Overall, being 4 persons and associated luggage, the Tiguan did not disappointed me. Seats (even in basic trim) were comfortable, the layout was the classic one, all easy to use. Pity I my car was missing the cruise due to a reservation mishap, but it was ok. Dimension-wise, there is a distinct difference in the size of the two vehicles ... the Superb is noticeable larger, and more of a barge when comes to manouver. I recommend a test-drive to get to familiarize somewhat with its girth. After more than 20K km, I still find myself sometimes at odds to manouver "in a loose manner" ... compared to that, I still feel my P38RR like a glove, even if wider and much less prone to easy manouvering than the Superb, for obvious technical reasons 😁 The rear doors, so practical, are also vey large - watch more carefully opening in tight spaces, is easy to bang it on its edge - I havent't done so yet, but came close a few times.... In the driving, the higher driving position of the VW is a plus, here you are lower, with less visibility. The ground clearance is also reduced, a bit more care is needed. I personally found myself very easy to adapt to the Tiguan, I think the other way around is more challenging, because also the Superb is setup quite "soft", which is comfy, but not so sporty/responsive. As for the performance, true that I am pampered by the fact mine's a 280, but driving the 150cv Tiguan, fully loaded, on mountain 2-lane (that is overall 2+2 lanes) roads was frankly ... appalling. To keep up with my lead vehicle (a 2.7 V6 4Runner) to keep a brisky pace, I was honestly gunning the engine most of the time, who gave its all very honestly, but it was a tiring exercise. And all in manual, as the 6-speed DSG seems programmed by the same imbecil that did the later 7-spd, with its too early upshifts which simply kill the engines' response ... from this point of view, it your daughter was satisfied with the performance of the Tiguan, I do not believe there will be an issue making the jump! In the city or in normal driving, the engine was sufficient and ideally suited to go about and keep up with normal traffic, I assume the Superb will be similar ... Only thing to watch is to drive a little to get a feeling of the different size ... 😉

In my (almost) previous life dealing with reconditioning cars and what not, I learned to be gentle with these things, way before I got to the Superb. Exactly noting how the spring makes the cover retract with excessive force, you realize is not something destined to last ... I keep always a word out to be gentle with almost all mechanisms in a car ... pulling a handle, opening glove compartment, and such ... most people take me as a "fanatic" or whatever, but when things fail, they cost much more than a nanosecond of attention ... sometimes I wish it was not so needed, but ...