leolito

What Stratos replica ? 🙃 Not standard, I think it was optional extra. This is how it looks ...

Thanks for bringing up this subject, among the looong list of things to look at, I was thinking what is the relative PCV failure rate, and wether a oil catch can, either recirculating or just "collector" type, would be a smart addition.

Difficult to say not knowing what really ticks you ... You can do soundproofing .... metal covers for the pedals, including footrest. Mudflaps for keeping bodywork cleaner or additional spoilers/lips all around like Gandalf above. Add rubber lips/door seals, wind deflectors, mats ... list if endless! Also there are a few tweaks, if you have access to diagnostic software!

Very nice! I like a lot the way the Scout looks, pity choices for interior and options made not possible for me to find a nice car. My L&K is loaded as I want it, and that it is. This said, I would not mind the extra ride height, topic upon which I will ponder shocks' replacement time, either by misting or when I will get fed up of the undersprung suspension. And I seriously envy the 'wood' Scout interior trim, instead of the awful cheap plasticky "piano black" trim on the L&K. That is another crazy mod idea ...

Yesterday I catched my neighbour, who happens to be a Webasto/Eberspacher sale and repair centre, has a Tiguan with aux heater, and services my SIII who has one as well, and we discussed your case. It is puzzling, because upon three unsuccessful starts, the aux heater unit "locks" to prevent damage, and only diagnostics can unlock it. If you have tried to start it more times, as I believe you had, and it did not fire, but at the same time you got no errors and it did not "lock", then probably there is a mis-communication between car and heater, the latter not recognizing has a fault. You said you run diagnostics (what?) on Module 18 Aux Heater, could you be able to run also on the Engine ECU and on the Gateway - think it was Module 19? This would highlight a possible comms issue. The heater needs to know engine status to know when to ramp-up, idle or maintain its firing/heating cycles, so if it says 'not recognized' this is another indication there is a signal missing somewhere. Lastly, you say when you start "manually" by pushing the button, the blower comes on but the heater does not start. What does the indication light do? Stays on, flashes, or turns off like after a second or two? And what about the indicator in the remote? More info to keep digging on this interesting case...

Usually the VAG group adds a suffix to differentiate successive versions of the same part/component, however this does not imply they are compatible. For example, a mirror switch might be "A" for normal el mirrors, "B" for folding el mirrors, "C" for folding + mem el mirrors, and so in. The 1T part should be the small eye, which is according to the parts' catalogue, a Superb II part, whereas you should have the "long" towing eye ... If someone can measure it, I have no access to my car presently, I think you will find the difference, nevertheless at equal options, I would get the "A" suffix and not suffer too much ...

Yeah, I shoulda asked first, I was preparing myself to do that "before" the fact, but then my friend with the service had a "easy" Sat morning with the car lift free ... and he called me up to do the job and it was all in a rush and we just did it. Will keep in mind for next time ☺️

I did not know you could 'push' them in, I use the winding tool ... hope did not made trouble. All seems to work fine.

more shelving = more options for junk gathering! don't do it, don't do it! 😁

I stop long ago to follow to the letter maintenance instructions when they no longer seem connected to the technical aspects of said maintenance ...

Interesting but ... I have no idea when I will do so, and not sure the map will be able to erradicate this. Both VCDS and OBD11 have failed to exclude this system ... so we will fool it 😃

Finally had some time to fit these things, that were laying around since weeks ... must take phots next time, it became dark quick and they did not look very good ... I used the "ali" 'z' profile on leading edge of both front doors, and also on woman-mobile (CT200h). Good trick is in this cold weather to warm them up with a heat gun or similar (carefully! is not needed to "cook" the rubber!) to soften a bit the adhesive. After a couple days of use, seem to hold well. I am not so much targeting noise reduction as I am targeting "muck reduction", but will see, have not gone out on the highway to check. I tried to use the remaining 'z' profile but I am not really keen in fitting them to the bttom of the doors, I do not like the result on Calskil's car above. Tried in different places, but there is nowhere else to put them but on the leading edge of front doors really. At 1 euro per car, a bit less than 2m ... good I say. I will try next the "sloping D" from Martini and see, this exactly to keep clean the sills. In between the doors I used these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007437544971.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.4.7b23YDC4YDC4qE&aem_p4p_detail=202510282354586620434343926620000396726&algo_pvid=fb0d42a2-391c-452e-b597-31eab4724403&algo_exp_id=fb0d42a2-391c-452e-b597-31eab4724403-3&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%226%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22search%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%2131.83%2115.87%21%21%2136.21%2118.05%21%402103129017617208984936252ebfe2%2112000040754026618%21sea%21SI%210%21ABX%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29910%3Bd%3A9c01a61%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895%3BpisId%3A5000000190286789&curPageLogUid=X0ehZxL2Ym00&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005007437544971%7C_p_origin_prod%3A&search_p4p_id=202510282354586620434343926620000396726_1 instead of the ones suggested, I believe this is a firmer grip and larger edge for sealing. No issues whatsoever with door closing, and no "pull" (when you see the door edging out). The CT200h had already this originally from the factory! I am next try to order some "P" rubber to fit in the upper edge of the tailgate, another area prone to muck gathering ... the 'z' there remains partially compress and bent, so is not a good idea - will collect water and dirt towards the adhesive part, useless. Photos next time!

What module did you go for? I am thinking to put one, I do appreciate and use the SS system regularly, but not at often as the car "wants" me to .... time has come.

Eat a loooot! So you can save on media for the blaster 😁

I like that garage.... a total mess!!! I am ahead of you - I've got a thin line where you can cross from one end to another ... some sort of 'Maginot Line' surrounded by ... minefields of junk 😁 I have started efforts to clean up, though - I have the ambitious plan to make the area usable for a car again, enter a small EV there and be able to charge it on home electricity.... someday! By then perhaps we will be already on hydrogen 🤣

I believe a kit for walnut blasting is a reasonable option, sooner or later will get one .... Here spark plugs are at 60K km, 60K mi sounds like a long interval.

I am not familiar with the iv, the hatchaback nor the UK market, but I think if you like the car, and it can suit your purpose, it is a clever idea. I have done this in the past in a ouple of occasions, getting your "work" car as personal (going through the proper channels of course) and it has been always a smart choice. Obviously, you are also lucky you like the car the company selected as a company car ... 😄

Noooo .... it is next on my list 🙃☠️

Always complicated, eh? 🙃

Waiting to hear ... this is more than "normal" indeed. I have occasionally some rough idling after cold start, and the 'bump' of the DSG when in Sport especially, but in general there is smoothness ... unlike your tale. Hope the dealer finds some bush or something that makes like a "resonance" and thus generates the effect you describe!

Dont' want to add a polemic statement, but when reading the entire OP I was "shuddering in horror" hoping the highlighted situations as mostly for testing purposes and not the usual ... call me mechanically old fashioned, but I think the recipe of: a) revving up a b) petrol c) turbocharged engine from d) 1100RPM (practically a fast idle!) in e) 4th gear (a high gear) f) on an incline at g) 30MPH, and maybe h) cold before oil temp reaches at least 70C .... well I guess when you cook all that in the oven, minimum you can expect is some vibration 😁 I rarely drive the car below 1500RPM, around 2k is its sweet spot for relaxed driving and proper response. Obviously this implies driving on Sport or Manual, thanks to the imbecil programming of the DSG ****box, with its too early upshifts and inexistent downshifts ... and the malevolent eco idling coasting ... someday its day will come as well.

Yeah, I would recommend to try to isolate transmission from engine, when it is revved or kept in that range in N does it also? True that with an auto you cannot really "detach" engine from driveline as you would with a manual, but is a start .... Also you did not say if the same problems occur in other shifts modes, or in manual?

I was browsing around also in parts catalogue and no I cannot find confirmation of this, so I guess will have to the the typical "pull it out and see" method 🙃

I seem to remember a chart in the 'bob is the oil guy' forum, but now I cannot find it ... very negigible differences in cst ... the difference is "up high" when the temp increases ...

Tend to dissent on this, having driven more than a few "high mileage" cars, I would not want to cheap out on maintenance including lubricants... many assume "is worth little so I don't want to give much" but then complain when failure time comes ... which sometimes it is independent of maintenance, but why add another risk factor to the equation?