Bodge

Nice one, cheers Bowders. Looks like I just have to tease the end up by about a cm to replace the front end caps. Nice and easy by the sounds of it then. Thankfully they are dirt cheap too. £2.14 for both LH and RH. Lets see how long this screen lasts before I get another massive stone chip! The last one looked like a boulder as it kicked up off the opposite side of a dual carriageway. Scared the hell out of me! Back to a grey tint top screen now too. Quite liked the green top on my last screen. Matched the brakes!

Had another front screen fitted today (thermal shock from the awesome AC caused the screen to shatter thanks to a stone chip)....... The guy snapped the little plastic doober that fits in the front end of the black roof rail. PN: 1U6853292 Here's an image (random polish parts website!): http://www.autodilyhh.sk/koncovka-stresni-listy-predni-prava-1u6853292-sk?brand=0 Anyone changed one of these before? Skoda workshop manual makes it sound very easy. Basically pop up the black roof strip with a plastic wedge, slide out old end cap and slide in new one. Didn't bother to argue with Auto Windscreens as he did a good job other than that. Hoping a new one is only a couple of quid!

ASR actually uses two methods of traction control, depending upon your speed. Under 25mph it uses the EDL (electronic differential lock) function. So it pulses the brake caliper of the slipping wheel, which diverts power to the wheel with more grip. It feels pretty harsh when it happens and you can hear the high frequency banging. Above 25mph it does what you guys have mentioned. When it detects slip at a wheel it backs off the throttle via the electronic throttle body, until traction is regained. I'd agree with turning it off for aggressive driving because nobody wants unexpected throttle changes mid-corner when you're on the limit! I do find it actually helps in the snow at low speeds though. It's also great at detecting tiny amounts of aqua planing on the motorway at high speeds and giving you an early warning (in the form of a flashing light)!

_BODGE Mine's full of cats and rally cars! Plus a few of the Skoda.

The RS body shell has a surprising amount of additional welding and stiffening brackets too. It's not just a normal shell with some decorations stuck on it like most people think.....

On cold start, in conjunction with the SAI system. On a cold start the pump pulls fresh air through the airbox, then blows it down the exhaust system via the combi valve on the head. At the same time the VVT activates, putting the valves into massive overlap mode and allowing unburnt fuel to pass down the exhaust. The unburnt fuel and fresh air then combine to cause a post-combustion event in the catalytic converter. Which forces the cat to heat up quickly, reducing emissions from the cold engine.

Italian tune up required! Mine failed on emissions on the first try as the car had just been pottering around town on short trips for a week. Took it out for a boost/load heavy drive to get exhaust temps right up and it sailed through with flying colours 30mins after it failed.... The MOT tester couldn't believe the difference in results. I think it's just a side effect of an old cat (mine's 12 years old).

Twin 3" slash cut rounds on mine. Fits the bumper void perfectly. But it was custom made. Thinking of painting the tips satin black currently...

Have you tried Skoda yet? I bought a new front drivers side one in September last year and it wasn't too expensive. There seem to be some myths about having to buy a complete set or that they can't be bought any more. I just walked into my local dealer and asked for one. Turned up after a couple of days.

Huh?! Might need some more information there! I'm going to assume it's a pre-warmed aluminium crack pipe. Buy 2.

Feels harder to jack the seat up while your fat butt is on it now, so I'm guessing it's a helper spring for the seat height adjuster. Still adjusts though... I've filed mine in the corner of the garage somewhere.

Continental say the belt you need is a 6PK1120 (Non-AC Mk1 RS). I fitted a 6DPK1195 (with AC) a few weeks back, which I got from Conti, so I trust their online catalogue. I don't think you need anything other than the shorter belt and to get the compressor out of the way. The pulley on the compressor is pretty big, so I'd imagine the belt is a fair bit shorter.

I have one of these in my toolbox for this situation: http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.asp?x=0&y=0&productdescription=heavy+duty+wiper+arm+puller&pageindex=1&gotonode=DoProductSearch&method=mProductSearch&IndividualTypeID=&category=0&requiredresults=16 I've come across some tight ones in my time...

Been using Castrol EDGE 5W-30 or Quantum LongLife III 5W-30 (they are the same thing) for almost 7 years in my car. I'll never use anything else. It's more expensive than 5W-40, but will last much longer if it needs to.

Ahh I can feel all the Mk1 love flowing here! I will have had mine for 7 years come September. It had about 72k miles on it when I got it and now it's around 152k. Bought it with the original cambelt, so I've had it changed twice under my ownership. Worst things to happen were the clutch slipping (previous owner had no clutch control), front spring snapped (corrosion) and PAS pipe burst (corrosion). Other than that I've had nothing major. Everything is cheap to fix anyway. Bombproof car that goes like stink! As a package, it's extremely hard to beat.... There aren't many cars this cheap that can do 150mph, be fun on a track day, carry massive things (fridge freezer, washing machine, interior doors, bikes etc.), carry 5 people with luggage, return 36mpg average, destroy most other cars on the road, remain understated, cheap to maintain etc. etc.

I fitted the MANN activated carbon filter on Friday. Think it was a CUK 2862. Will check later.... The CU 2882 that you fitted is listed as for cars "without air-conditioning system" on the MANN website. http://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/vehicle/MANN-FILTER%20Katalog%20Europa/Vehicles/CARS%20%2B%20TRANSPORTERS/SKODA/Octavia%20I/1.8%20T%20RS%20(%20(1U))%20AUQ%20(T26785) I've had the standard white filter several times before in the car and yeah they do go totally black! I have noticed my car smells much nicer inside now...

Yeah I mentioned it to Ben and Mikko at Shark Performance while I was there and they didn't find it to be affecting the performance at all. General opinion was to not be concerned by it. My car made healthy power and torque, so I'd imagine yours will be fine. I had a tussle with a friend in a mapped E92 335d yesterday (test track) and he was impressed with how quick the old Skoda was and how stable it was at 130+! Nothing I could do about his mountain of torque though!

Like you're saying in your Seat Cupra thread, it's not actually knocking. It's something else going on.........

Hi Adrian! No worries resurrecting the old thread. Lots has changed over the past 4 years, but this error code isn't one of them!! My engine is the AUQ (180bhp standard), but the knock sensor system should be the same as the BAM. Sounds like we have the same issue. My car even spent a day on Shark Performance's rollers having a custom remap and no issues were flagged with knock or timing. The code just seems to pop up once a month or so, but with no running issues or other symptoms. Can't seem to link it to anything. I don't worry about it any more as it doesn't actually cause any issues. I'm assuming it's a gremlin in the system. I've checked/changed everything I could think of to fix it. I'm only amazed that I seem to be the only Mk1 Octavia RS owner that has this error code. Seems to be a common 20vT issue that nobody has ever resolved..... If you ever get rid of it let me know

I might have missed something, but this sounds like a 17705 error to me. If you drive the car and it has the flat feeling, pull over and key off and on again. Does all the power magically come back? Do you have a boost gauge? Might be worth plumbing one in temporarily to diagnose the issue. The 17705 error code limits boost to 5psi, so gives you a strange flat feeling on some days. But on other days the car will be fine and boosts normally. It wont throw a light, it'll just log the code. So can you do a code scan? Replacing the N75 is a classic! People always seem to jump at the chance to waste money on buying a new N75, when the reality is that they rarely fail. Anyway, at least you have a nice new shiny one now!

I'd drive the dead Turbot straight down to the chippy for battering and deep frying. Mmmmm turbot. Obviously if you were emotionally/romantically attached to said Turbot, I'd leave a couple of days for mourning before driving again.

You just beat me on the peak torque there! Mine's producing 261lbft on a Shark Stage 1 (standard mechanicals).

Only just seen this thread. Good result! Few points...... Standard boost should peak at 0.16-0.17MPa (absolute). Which equates to 8.51-9.96PSI (gauge). The WG actuator on this car operates on positive not negative pressure. Placing a vacuum on the can will only damage the diaphragm. I also suffered from 17705. Cleaning the TB, replacing all the vac/breather hoses and getting a good quality remap from Shark removed the issue...

If it's been made by Garrett in China, then it's absolutely fine. If it's a copy of a Garrett turbo made in China, then I wouldn't trust it to hold a door open. Watch the footage of the containment testing in this video by Holset: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6p8WWOXckH4 You don't really want a turbine wheel burying into your chest at 200,000rpm if it breaks free at full chat........

If you have a good look at the tensioner it's pretty obvious what you have to do. Spanner on the lug and small allen key/drill bit to lock it in place. Belt can be easily replaced from above with no need to remove any plastic panels or a wheel. Nice 2 minute job.