kokosal

Disconnect thick cable and try to start the engine. You will hear the bendix. or extend thin cable and ask another person to break connection. I think its mechanical.

Guys dont look at piston shiny marks. I have put pads in any configuration during experiments, proper, wrong, left wheel, right wheel. I know that kolbenseite should go to the piston. I need dismantle it again and understand what was the poet trying to say while designing that inner spring. I assume he wasnt an idiot. When we expand it with pliers and then slide back into the piston we ruin the holding force.

I will try Brembo and Textar pads. I dont believe in "lose rubber sleeve" theory. Tomorrow is day of the days. I start fight at 8oo. I need some results. Im going to Germany soon. I wonder why I dont have cable for worn brake pad sensor alarm 🙄 Pads comes with cable and socket. Scary movie part 3. Chat gpt told me that peoples solution for rattling is to swap knuckle for 288 disc, removable caliper carrier and caliper with spring here is similar problem

fight with brakes: day 46 any ideas welcomed guys rattling noise inner pad should be that lose?

So it depends on electronics. Semiconductor and temperature right? The hotter the longer? If communication switch --> car is by bus I would go why is there no communication. What supress the bus down. If there are only simple cables from switch to central control I would try to check why there is no voltage around switch. (Im just electronics technician I dont know what is solution chosen by skoda designers) Basic simple things to check: cables in rubber close to hinge and dismantle of drivers door and looking for green monster eating copper😉 I guess that module in drivers door is ill.

I cannot imagine you are not able to undo that bolt. Maybe some Terminator thight it. Torque is not big stretch bolt. "12 point with ribs": 70Nm + 90deg turn, "12 point without ribs": 200Nm + 180deg turn. Maybe he did 200Nm with ribs 😉 More heat close to bearing? hmm 🙄 Use good 3/4 socket King Tony, Proxxon, BGS and T-Handle Socket Wrench 3/4 Inch with steel pipe

lamp has little paddle. Maybe broken and lost. bulb is always connected to +12v Other end is controled by mosfet PWM to the ground.

Did you put smartphone in to check it? LED there = problem. Bulb has very low resistance and works well with the PWM driver. Another problem there is unreliable switch.

red LED needs less than white. What current did you set 10mA or 50mA? You shouldn't touch resistors but check with an old value first. Even all dead white LEDs should not cause red wheel. Maybe you damaged cables to angle sensor?

after one year I'm sure: winter - normal quiet start 650rpm, summer - heat, strong sun on the engine bay, elevated 1200rpm.

Big mistake was to replace whole unit. First step is to replace aluminium block (modulator only). If you have an old pump replace electronics back.

In my other car (vw passat) key problem or key without immo chip does not start engine and icon appears on the dashboard. Can you hear fuel pump working when you turn key in first position?

Hi guys My Octavia 2 FL makes rattling noise on rough asphalt, exposed stones, small cracks. Brakes, system ATE, disc 280mm, pads Febi 16328. When I press brake pedal quiet. When release rattling comes back. I even replaced one rubber sleeve. New Febi sleeve is more loose than orginal ATE Skoda OEM sleeve. I replaced guide pins for brand new ATE. MOT in March nothing in suspension. I know sway bar link clattering noise. I think left side is louder than right or it is noise from left wheel. Any ideas guys?

Water from sprinkler pump is a killer. This is a poor design. If you want to sleep well do not connect hose to the new mechanism. Plug hose and leave disconnected.

as radiator has only two connections top hose cannot get hot without warm water going from bottom hose and through radiator. I assume that if radiator is cold and top hose getting warm there is a premature opening of thermostat. It is unhealthy to sink thermostat in the boiling water. I would rather buy two three wahler behr vernet and compare opennings in the pot to chose the narrow one. I replaced thermostat recently. Im driving to my work 4km without warming up. Hand goes to 90'C after 3km. While there is demand from heater core hoses never get warm so I assume big circuit remains closed.

I fixed my mechanism, removed water but it does not fit properly to glass. I think I have mechanism from COMBI version. Do you guys know proper OEM number for liftback version O2 FL 2011

I just replaced thermostat in my 1.6 BSE and Sun is shining stronger again. Engine reach 90 deg after 2 km now. 😊 I hope for lower oil consumption aswell. In my other car it helped.

no nothing nas been changed I would not cut my hand but as I remember elevated rpm came in May with this summer and heat wave. On Saturday - Sunday I will try to disconnect negative terminal for a whole night, in the morning make sure battery is 12.6v and I will try to start cold engine. I will connect laptop and see if any errors are registered in memory and check coolant temperature sensor readings. I'm really confused if this is normal behavior (in some rare circumstances) or malfunction. Thanks

Yup. 60mA is too high to me. My other car Passat takes 30mA :( I will try to pin point it. But I swapped in the morning that new Varta 60Ah for another new battery charged all night with 14v and did not helped. I locked car, put screwdriver in the hood latch and I was waiting for a 2 hours :( Maybe that Octavia 2011 do not tolerate battery bigger than specification? I think should be 55Ah or 45Ah? My vintage passat B5 do not care about capacity. Or maybe power steering is current hog?

hi guys I'm trying to find out what is the cause. 1.6 MPI BSE 2011. Elevated idle 1200rpm for about 30 seconds only when I start cold engine. I'm doing 8km daily. Charging 14.4v, charging 650rpm 13.8v, in the morning 12.2v, ignition on 11.9v, start 10v. Varta 60Ah. Leaking current at stand by 60mA. I replaced it for another fresh fully charged 12.6v battery 66Ah. No luck the same. I'm running out of ideas. I don't remember when it happened for the very first time. I think I would say last summer engine started without rising rpm. video cold start at 7 o clock, 20 'C

I would check for sure if the timing chain did not jump. It is common. "I can't accelerate over 50mph" is a sizeable loss of power.

Hello all. New Octavia 2 (petrol) driver here. Love to dismantle cars and put it back