octaviaIV_lover

I am from the EU, I think it's the same for everyone

Sorry to hear it's different. Such a shame they changed the solenoid but managed to still use a part that get broken, seems like you have the newer version. Can you specify the exact model you have and year and month of make? I am yet to take apart my selector lever module, the warnings are annoying but I don't want to do anything about it if not really necessary, I have the NX5 version

This is the email I just got: Dear erWin User, We would like to inform you that, as of 18-12-2025, the erWin Webshop will no longer be available to private customers but exclusively to business customers. Of course, you may continue to use your active flatrate subscriptions until the end of their contractually agreed term – even beyond the above-mentioned discontinuation date. Should you have any questions, please contact our support team at https://volkswagen.erwin-store.com/erwin/showRequestSupport.do . Thank you for your understanding. Kind regards, Your erWin Team Volkswagen Aktiengesellschaft

They are going to discontinue it ! Dear erWin User, We would like to inform you that, as of 18-12-2025, the erWin Webshop will no longer be available to private customers but exclusively to business customers. Of course, you may continue to use your active flatrate subscriptions until the end of their contractually agreed term – even beyond the above-mentioned discontinuation date. Should you have any questions, please contact our support team at https://volkswagen.erwin-store.com/erwin/showRequestSupport.do . Thank you for your understanding. Kind regards, Your erWin Team Volkswagen Aktiengesellschaft

Just letting you know they will end support for private customers! Such a shame! Dear erWin User, We would like to inform you that, as of 18-12-2025, the erWin Webshop will no longer be available to private customers but exclusively to business customers. Of course, you may continue to use your active flatrate subscriptions until the end of their contractually agreed term – even beyond the above-mentioned discontinuation date. Should you have any questions, please contact our support team at https://volkswagen.erwin-store.com/erwin/showRequestSupport.do . Thank you for your understanding. Kind regards, Your erWin Team Volkswagen Aktiengesellschaft

Hi, this was actually my exact experience! Though I am not sure what loud noise you are talking about, maybe I wasn't paying attention. It started occurring now more often. Before I could not read the error with VCDS but now I can. This error matches what I read online elsewhere. You could most likely fix this by bending the contacts on the solenoid for the park. The deal with the park button is - if I remember correctly, that when the solenoid is active, it prevents you from pressing the park button - this is in the instances where the car would be moving and the computer would want to prevent you from engaging the park gear. There should be no issues with driving and while driving connected to this I think - unless it would make it possible for you to engage the park gear while driving, I did not test this for obvious reasons. Maybe just take extra care to not press the park gear button. You can google "P27F5 00 – Shifter Lock Solenoid 1 (Stuck Open)" to find the contact bending solution I mentioned. It's most likely this.

My problem is that with VCDS I don't read any error ... One time I even left the car running with the error on display, got my VCDS, connected, and still no error.

I also saw some Russian guides how to do it yourself. Supposedly it is trivial - there is just some contacts that need bending. But I don't think this is the issue with my car since this only appears during driving ... I am not that much bothered by the error that I would go and try to fix it myself. SK_RU_2207_03_4_я_версия_Ремонт_селектора_КПП_OCTAVIA_A8_Событие-1.pdf

So this issue was fixed on your MK3 Octavia? Not mk4? There is supposedly an update for the MK4 octavia as well

Thanks for sharing this. Below is the update from my car, data from 22nd December 2024. Charge related ageing down 6%, performance related ageing down 4%. Total recharge was only 210 Ah from battery replacement and around 100 Ah from last update. So in the span of 36 days this decrease occured. On thing to not is that the other values still look fine and that I did not drive my car a lot in this time.

Another update Surprisingly, the car computer estimated charge and performance degradation has already increased ... Like wtf after only 100 Ah of total re-charge. Also, the adapted capacity shows up as 84 Ah although its was and still is coded as 72 Ah. This number automatically went up from last time (see first post). The internal resistance also shows up as a bit increased I will be posting further updates about the battery here:

Hi, about 2 weeks ago I got my EFB+ car battery replaced for a new AGM battery. This were the stats from the computer on that day: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Now, about 14 days later: Battery capacity should be adapted to 72 Ah So far, based on the stats from the computer, I am not impressed with the AGM battery but time will tell. I think I might have done only about 1000 - 2000 km in this time. Also, the adapted capacity shows up as 84 Ah although its was and still is coded as 72 Ah. This number automatically went up from last time. One important change however is the weather, 2 weeks ago it was like 15 °C, now it's below 5 °C, so the battery is taking the cold weather well Related post of mine:

I can also add something to this but I can't say for 100%. I built a testing rig to measure charge and discharge of the used 12V EFB+ battery, supposedly 72Ah when new. I am a bit surprised and for this reason doubtful but seems like the battery only has about 25 Ah capacity left, so about 35%, while the on board system was showing as it having 83% of capacity left - usable battery capacity when full. Sadly I do not have a brand new battery to test this out and see how much charge I can put in and take out, so take this with a big amount of salt, but basically I did this 2 or 3 times now, measuring how much energy in Wh and Ah I put in and get out and it seems to be at the 20 - 25Ah range. In the screenshot you can see all the curves, altough because of some error the top left is marked "Wh", it actually represents the voltage, I current in amps, and below power and amper hours, This is the discharege of a fully charged battery. And here are the charging charts of a fully discharged battery (around 11.6V empty) For anyone wondering - this was done with INA211current sensor and ESP32 microcontroler, the dummy load was a heater element. I also did another test where I connected the used battery to a 12V to 230V inverter, connected a handheld vaccum machine to it, and it was able to put out about 500W, powering the vaccum, while the voltage on the battery dropped to 10.8V, so about 2V, if I can trust the voltage indicator on the inverter. Using a much smaller 12V battery, that with my tests puts out about 12Ah of capacity, the vacuum would not even start because the voltage drop on a much smaller (not a car lead acid battery) battery is so high, the inverter doesn't work. I am planing to use this used battery with an inverter for camping reasons or for a portable 12V refrigerator I have, should be able to power it for like 2-3 hours.

Of course I did not miss his post but I was more curious about how to do it with VCDS since it has a SFD lock. Maybe it would even be possible to do with VCDS but I did not know I need to manually clear the errors before setting up a new battery in the computer. Also, for me personally there is a big difference if 1 person says I don't need to keep power or if 5 people say that. Would make me more confident.

Soluiton:

Solution:

Hi, writing this out since nobody replied to my previous posts with any information that would help me and will also possibly clarify some things to others. I went to get my car battery replaced by a mechanic that was recommended to me, supposedly he had equipment necessary to code a new battery for a Škoda Octavia Mk IV. When I met him I told him my concerns and he guaranteed me that he is able to do it. He simply disconnected the old battery and reconnected the new one, without any power supply keeping the car modules powered. He also needed to take out part of the air filter intake assembly for putting in a new battery, then he "coded" the new battery on some red tablet with a proper looking OBD cable. The tablet put out some beeps that would indicate that the coding was not a success but I didn't say anything since I didn't want to be a smart ass. When the car was turned on there were of course 20 warnings but after driving for like 50 meters they all disappeared. When I came home I connected my VCDS only to find out that nothing was coded. I did not want to go back to that mechanic since he obviously didn't know what he is doing. I tried buying a SFD token service (one more shady looking than VAG logins) but it did not work, got scamed for 10€ but whatever. My friend came over later today and he has a CARISTA evo module with a subscription. At first we couldn't change the battery coding, but when he read and deleted all the diagnostic error codes, he was able to change it, and I was able to verify it with my VCDS clone from aliexpress. I am pretty sure a OBD11 would also work for this - random tip, on the OBD11 website, register, put OBD11 with the VAG subscription in the cart, and don't buy it. Wait for an email from them and they will give you a 10% discount. I am now very happy and satisfied. It is very noticable that the engine starts up quicker (like 1/2 second sooner), and with the VCDS I also looked at the analysis of starting behavior, and the starter draws a much higher current, while also creating a smaller voltage drop on the battery. The internal resistance as shown by VCDS is also much lower. Will keep you updated how long the AGM battery will last me. Cost-wise, the 72 Ah AGM battery was 160€ while I could get an EFB battery of similar capacity for 100€. Dealer's garage would charge me around 300€ without them being able to tell me if they will put a cheapo EFB or an AGM battery.

Anyone have info/experience regarding to replacement on octavia MK4? I know that for coding i need to get a SFD token with VCDS or buy an OBD11

I can not help you with this but I am wondering, what is the process of changing the steering wheel like? My has a normal one I guess, but the guy doing the coding was able to activate adap. lane assist anyway, I just need to steer the steering wheel like 5 degrees ever 12 seconds so it doesn't shut down but its kinda annoying.

Hi, has anyone tried to replace their car battery themselves? Maybe changed EFB+ to AGM? Do you need to provide the car with power supply while doing it? Cheers

To clarify, the website wants me to buy credits, and the minimum is 30€ which should be enough for 2 unlocks (1 unlock is supposed to last 90 minutes before the module locks itself back), but I also read that OBD11 has integrated SFD unlock if you buy the 12 month PRO VAG subscription, but that's much more expensive.

Hi, my 2020 škoda octavia IV I bought preowned needs a new battery, the current one (EBF+) is degreaded which also shows up by some systems giving errors on car boot up, but they go aways after like 15 seconds, I think because of the voltage drop. The local dealer here in Slovenia wants 300€ for the repair (battery included) and they can't even tell me if they will put in EBF+ or AGM battery (wtf?). I bought a AGM battery for 160€ and a chinese VCDS clone for 40€ and some OBD connector with aligator clips, that is supposed to help with keeping the car modules powered so they don't lose power. I have discovered today, while trying to change the coding before swapping the batteries, that I can't change the coding, and everything points out to me needing SDF unlocking to change it. I found some random site which I do not know if it is trustworthy, who supposedly gives you the correct SDF string to paste in VCDS to unlock the modules and modify them. I can give the address of the site if this is allowed and you want. But what I am wondering is should I even do it? I think I have the technical knowledge to do it but most importantly I am wondering if anyone has done it before since it is quite complicated. Best regards