OccyVRS

Good luck. It just pulls out, but getting it back in was impossible. I took a nice chunk out of the door card.

I've seen it done, although it was a custom system on a 1.0 SE. This also had vRS badges along with a full vRS interior and wheels, which tells you all you need to know, really.

You'll find the A-Pillar trim to be far more exciting than the glove box! I've attached a photo of my dashcam setup, to show you what some cloth tape, a Dremel and an hour or two can achieve 🙂

+1 I would assume 3/4 of VAG cars on the road have 'a light misting of oil' - it's nothing to worry about. Sure, they aren't fresh, but they still have plenty of life in them. Lowering springs will have a different compression rate, and ideally the shock will need a different rebound rate to suit. Some people don't change them but really, you should.

Different tyres will fit differently, depending on the rigidity of the carcass, if they have rim protectors, etc. I have PS5s on mine and it's a very nice fitment, even if I do need to get the wheels refurbed (previous owner, not me). I'm not sure what you mean about built in spacers - they either have spacers or they don't. The wheel is a standard ET51. If you post a photo here, we should be able to tell you if the poke looks standard or not. I wouldn't be laying a wheel down - always keep it upright until you have something to put underneath, just in case. Ultimately, you shouldn't be relying on a tyre to protect the wheel from a kerb... arguably, I'd rather chunk a metal alloy than chunk a bit of safety critical rubber. It might be worth using the mirrors dropped when parking, or maybe avoiding tight car parks until you're used to the car? I always open my door when parking by a kerb, and take my time in car parks. People might laugh, but I've never kerbed a wheel.

We need more info on the engine. Because the TDI vRS isn't as powerful as the TSI, so the larger brakes aren't really needed. PFL Mk3 cars had 340mm fronts and 272mm rears, regardless of engine. The FL 245 had 340/310, the 230 had 340/272 and then the TDI had 312/272. The vented 340/310 setup isn't cheap, so it makes sense they swap to solid rears and smaller fronts on cars that don't need them.

Yeah.. using a Dremel to cut a notch in a £5 part isn't going to affect your warranty. I replaced several trim pieces on my vRS and Skoda still did related warranty work. It was, as I said, just an idea. Just because Skoda couldn't be bothered to change the port location on RHD cars doesn't mean people need to have unsightly cables. The USB-C on the mirror is ignition only, so if someone wants to run their camera in parking mode, it will need to be hardwired regardless. My point was that doing this can still be done very neatly.

Yep. FYI, clearing a fault code isn't always the best thing. Most of the time, ifd the issue is still present it will come back, but sometimes the car will see it as the 'new normal', which causes issues.

I'm a huge fan of CarPlay and the like (makes my life much easier), but the phone stays in the glove box. If something disconnects - tough. In the UK, at least, even touching a mobile device while the engine is on, is actually illegal. Not sure about smart watches, mind.

I think so - on the oil pumps at least.

Hopefully you'll be able to find some stuff in the Octavia Mk4 forum!

Bottom line is that as long as the chosen wheel and tyre combo is type approved by Skoda, OP is fine.

FYI there is a reason OE wheels are more expensive. You don’t want to be running one wheel different to the others. Gemini’s shouldn’t be that expensive.

FYI. You can route through the mirror housing. My Mk3.5 has the camera/sensor unit in the housing, and while it’s hardwired in, I have it coming out of a dremel hole. Just an idea, as you could potentially take tbe USB-C port to the other side.

I don’t hate the rear wing - ditch the silly lip spoiler and mount it an inch lower like the BMW GTS ones and maybe I’d forget it was FWD for a second. The fitment is iffy, the wheel choice questionable, the F1 rain light a non-starter and I love how the kit completely ignores the body lines. The issue is, despite OP clearly attempting to rage bait, he’s just missing the point. If you want DSG farts and a Maxton diffuser, buy a Golf R. If you want a track weapon, get a GTI CS. VAG make a performance-ish MQB car for everyone - the vRS is the practical, understated, all rounder. FYI - unlike some vRS owners here, I’m in my 20s. This doesn’t look good. The only cosmetic stuff these cars need is a Rieger rear diffuser with some proper exhaust tips. Aside from that, I like it how it is. Nobody is buying a widebody for a GTI, let alone a vRS.

It will probably invalidate the drivetrain warranty, if not under the CoC specifications, but then again most stuff will invaldiate the warranty. In terms of the effect of handling, yes, the dealer is correct - smaller diameter wheels will reduce the unsprung weight and improve handling, however increasing sidewall height will increase the tyre flex, and have the opposite effect on handling. That being said, going from 18" to 17" on a 1.5 crossover won't make any real difference. Sticking with OE Skoda wheels within CoC is not a modification. Anything else is, however when I swapped from OE to Revo I paid an increase of a £9 admin fee. Depends what Skoda list as suitable, however a 215/50R17 is the equivalent to a 215/60R16, depending on wheel width (I assume anything from 6" to 7").

You need to keep the circumference the same, so to increase the profile you’d need to decrease the wheel size. Tyres make a big difference, although maybe not to the extent you need. Most of these cars are developed and come with Bridgestone, however there’s a reason you see them with Conti or Michelin.

I think it's a lost battle - OP was asked for this eleven hours and thirty comments ago. That being said, I think I've found the petroleum/oil company -

This is news to me. We've two DQ200 cars in the (wider) family and have heard nothing. TPS/TVS say nothing - do you have a copy of the letter? 140k for the belt is normal for an EA211. Again, which oil company? They are not correct as for the last time, the oil in a DQ200 cannot be checked. The only way would be to warm it, drain and refill which, to most people, is known as an oil change. Yes, the oil does break down, but without clutches in it, this period is usually north of 100k miles. I'm confused - the mysterious oil company claim the oil needs changing between 40k and 100k (which is vague enough as it is), mysterious DQ200-using manufacturers say to 'inspect' it at 20k, and now Skoda are telling you it's between 40k and 60k? Which one is it? At this point, I'm more curious than anything else - you're giving me a headache lol

If it's all still working fine today, you'll be alright. These forums exist for questions like that! Most of the less-waterproofed electronics are nice and high in the engine bay, along with the intake - lower lip of the bumper is fine. At that level I doubt you were even up to the exhaust, and remember most of the stuff lower down is designed to be waterproof with you hitting puddles with a lot more force at 60mph. The only real damage you can do in your situation would be to get water onto a hot turbo or hot brakes - that can cause some issues. Next time you wash the car, I'd suggest just doing the underside too - there might have been oil, fuel or whatever in the water, and it would be nice to take that off. I do the same thing in winter if there has been salt on the roads. I remember the first time I drove through a similar level of water a few years ago in my Leon - I was so worried I even went back to check where the water came up to! I wouldn't make a habit of going into water, as it's always better not to, but occasionally and to the level you did - you'll be absolutely fine.

It could be - depends if the bag had split though.

Still not entirely sure about the Harry's Garage vs Insurance/Warranty company (maybe I didn't watch enough of the video), but anyway. Bottom line is that, for all those reading this in eight years time at 3am, there is currently no prescribed service interval from Audi, VW, Skoda, SEAT or Cupra for the DQ200. Some wish to service them, as mentioned above, but TLDR is that OP's comments about 40k-100k service seem to be from thin air, and you physically cannot check the oil level on a DQ200 box. I'm not sure if OP was told this by a mysterious 'oil company', Skoda UK, or a Chimera. Despite our best efforts, we may never know.

So Skoda UK are informing you that the DQ200 needs servicing between 40k-100k, with other DQ200-using brands (Audi, VW, SEAT or Cupra) saying it needs to be inspected every 20k (which simply isn't possible, FYI)? Once again, we aren't disagreeing with your comment per se - we are simply asking where you were told this, because this just isn't true. There is no DSG gearbox that VWAG (Borg Warner) supply, make or use that require an inspection every 20,000 miles. That being said, you also said you were told this by 'an oil company', but it's now Skoda UK? It may be an interesting comment, but after a quick Google search I can't find it. Are you able to post a link, etc? It is, and that's sort of what we're all trying to do here... figure out where you got this information wrong, potentially educate you or ourselves, and leave another valuable thread in this forum for others to find. I fear someone is making that journey quite difficult.

I mean, if you were swapping the wheels out then of course you would tell your insurance. If you were powder coating originally grey wheels luminescent orange, I might be tempted to do some digging and maybe phone them up to ask the question. If they were simply being refurbed from silver to grey, black, diamond cut, or any other OE colour, I wouldn't bother. I mean, where is the line drawn? Technically if you get them refurbed in the exact same colour, they are still non-standard. Would swapping out 18" Gemini for 19" Xtreme be non-standard? That being said, for the £10 it cost me to do 'non-standard alloys' with Admiral, I'd probably just tick the box.

Saving Salvage has also recently put a DAZA into a Mk3 Octavia here. Doing it without fault codes, however, is probably impossible in reality. Anything is doable, mind, but it won't be a quick job. I know someone with a 3.2 V6 in an AWD converted Octavia. It's possible.