OccyVRS

Halfords.

As I said, you don't need to replace both tyres if the other is in good, new condition. I don't know about you, but my tyres wear pretty evenly on both axles - anything else is an alignment issue. The reason for putting new tyres on the rear of the car is not because it loses grip first, but rather because of the event losing grip at the rear causes. Understeer is reasonably predictable and straightforward to recover. Oversteer, on the other hand, can be sudden and is much more difficult for the average driver to recover from. I've done my ARDS course, along with a few other things, and would far rather understeer than the snap oversteer my vRS exhibits at the limit. The Karoq is indeed not a performance vehicle, but driving through standing water at 70mph on a soaking wet motorway, I know which tyres I'd rather have. As with everything, every example is unique and requires the application of common sense. The general rule of thumb, as I said above, is to not mix tyre brands, types or wear, and to fit new tyres to the rear axle.

Do you have any photos? It might be that the material is scuffed.

Part-time audiophile here. Firstly, I'd suggest that hunting for some headphones that can do the regular stuff, in addition to amp stuff, is a bit tricky. The music you listen to from Spotify, YouTube or whatever is processed and adapted for that use, whereas the signal coming out of an amplifier is 'raw'. Even if you stick a pair of Audeze into the back of an amp, without going through a DAC or other interface, it won't sound amazing. My advice with the guitar would be to pick up some cheap £40 open back headphones and call it a day. I think mine are old AKG ones - they wouldn't have been over £60. Regarding the more simple use for headphones, there are a few options. I wouldn't bother with on-ear. They're the worst of both worlds. My favourite earphones are the Apple AirPods Pro 3. They just do a really, really good job. I've had other options - Sony WH-1000XM6, Bose QC Ultra, and I prefer the AirPods. Although, to be fair, that might just be because of the interface and ease of use with my phone. For running and cycling I use some Shokz OpenFit - mainly because they allow me to not be run over. Headphones are a fair bit more complicated. My daily drivers, rather annoyingly, are the AirPods Max 2. The sound profile is pretty good and, for me, they're the most comfortable headphone I've ever worn. That being said, they are very expensive, the noise cancelling isn't great and the ear cups fill with moisture during use. I like them, but I'm not sure I'd recommend them, yet. I found the noise cancellation of the WH-1000XM5 to be much better, but I also found them horribly uncomfortable. I've tried the XM6 and they feel better, but by this point I'm used to the APM - particularly the fabric ear cups. My next favourite would be the Bose QC line (be it the Ultra or 35s) - either these or the Sony would be my pick for travelling. I haven't had great experiences with Sennheiser, and feel that there are better options out there. I like B&O, Bowers and Wilkins and, just like their speakers, the JBL Tour One. I also really enjoy my gaming headphones - some Steelseries Nova Pro. They're noise cancelling, 2.4, bluetooth or 3.5mm aux compatible, and are really comfortable. Anyway, I could go on for hours. For your son, I'd probably suggest some AKG open-back headphones for the guitar, and then... well... whatever your son wants! Find out if he wants headphones or earphones - I suspect earphones will get far more use and be far more convenient for him than a set of bulky, expensive headphones. Okay, yes, if used at high volume earphones can be a bit damaging (I limit mine to 80db, maximum), but so too can headphones! If I were 16 again (and it's not that long ago), I'd probably fancy some AirPods over headphones. The Pro 2 are good value in a deal, or the Pro 3 if not (there's not any difference between them that he will miss out on). FWIW, the regular AirPods are terrible - thoroughly do not recommend! Happy to offer anything more specific.

Honestly, I don’t even hate the Soundaktor - I just hate that it’s installed into a dashboard so cheap it rattles the whole thing! Aside from that, it’s a great drive. It’s faster than it should be, handles better than it should (for a 2.0 FWD saloon) and in general is a nice car to drive. Sure, it’s not as planted or as tight as a “hot hatch”, but it’s also nowhere near as uncomfortable or attention-seeking. Even as someone in their 20s, I love how understated and interesting the car is. You do see them on the road, but nowhere near as much as a hot Golf or A3. I actually have nothing bad to say about the driver aids in my 3.5. The ACC is amazing, I’ve had no issues with the braking assist or lane assist (beyond it seeing seams in temporary motorway works as white lines). The TSR was a nightmare, but I coded it out not long after I bought the car. That being said, I have had issues with the braking assist in both my parent’s cars and the Ibiza (2022). In particular, the SEAT likes to give lots of false warnings. The BMW lane assist is also a bit aggressive. I’ve driven lots of new cars and I can’t say the Skoda systems are anything but identical to SEAT, Cupra, Audi or VW. Indeed, I can’t say they’re any different to anything from France, BMW, Ford or Japan, either. I will say that I do believe the systems are perhaps toned down a little for performance models. I’ve had the least issues in an M340i and my vRS, but that may just be placebo. I’ve had no issues in my mate’s GTI, but that might be because it’s an 8v from 1985, and doesn’t even have power steering.

What he said. While modern AWD systems can easily cope with differences in tyres (Haldex, Torsen, xDrive, 4MATIC, PTM, Magna, etc) it’s always best practice to keep things as similar as possible. This isn’t just for safety and symmetry with regard to grip, but also for making the system work less. Think of it this way - the system already works hard enough to put the power down evenly, depending on which wheel has the most traction, etc - why make it work even harder by having different tyres with different levels of grip, etc? As a rule of thumb, new tyres should always be fitted on the same axle, unless the “old” tyre is the same brand and in almost new condition. New tyres should always be fitted to the rear of the vehicle.

Would be interested to know how the ADAS calibration and the like went. I’m hoping I get a crack in mine soon - it’s scratched to hell.

Shame they didn’t do this for the Mk3.5 and Mk4 - they sound absolutely horrible. Part of the change on the Mk4.5 is less that they added a different system to the GTI/etc, but more that they just stuck that one in. I think it has one fewer resonator, wider tubing and less restrictive back boxes than the old design. I love the vRS. It’s not a fast car. In today’s world, honestly, it’s not even really a quick car. It just does everything so well - it’s fast enough and handles well enough, but yet is also practical and comfortable enough. I don’t believe it is the master of anything, but I do believe it is one of the ultimate jack of all trades. While other cars from the MQB platform are more practical, faster, better handling, more comfortable, etc, I don’t believe any of them do everything as well as the Octavia vRS (except for maybe the Cupra ST and Golf R Estate, purchase price aside).

Be careful with a dealer installed dashcam - make sure it’s done properly. For theft protection, your best bet would be a ghost immobiliser. That said, is a vRS really a hot target for car thieves? Not really, IMO. They either want something tasty with a Porsche or RR badge, or they want something basic that will do a job. The only real attraction of a vRS is that it can either be used as a taxi for a crime, or broken up for more expensive S3/R/etc. I wouldn’t say you’re being paranoid, but it’s definitely a cost/benefit analysis. Regarding protection of the vehicle, this is something I know a lot more about. Firstly, make sure they will take the wheels off of the car to ceramic the calipers, barrels and suspension components. I’m not sure which coating they will be using, but ideally you would have one with a high heat resistance - something like Q2 RIM EVO. This will keep exhaust trim, calipers, brake bells/hubs and stuff looking nicer for longer. Secondly, while they should already be doing this, make sure the whole car gets a paint correction. If you plan to keep the car for a while, it would also be worth installing some PPF (before ceramic coating!). Ceramic is good stuff, but it won’t offer any scratch or chip protection - think of is as an extra layer of clear coat. I wouldn’t bother with the whole car, but the front may be a candidate. Finally, it may be worth looking at a proper underseal job. The underside of these cars leaves something to be desired, so some cavity wax and lanoguard may be welcome. Enjoy it! What colour did you go for?

Running a staggered setup isn’t ideal on a vehicle that isn’t designed for it, but a 1% difference in rolling speeds shouldn’t have any significant effects on ABS/ESP/TCR. I wouldn’t bother changing for any other reason than 235/35R19 is cheaper than 225/35R19.

Plenty of posts about EA888.3 tuning available all over the internet. I would personally prefer a custom tune - QST are probably the nearest in Haywards Heath. If you wanted to look at a flash map, my money would be on Revo or Racingline. VAS Motion for the former, and The Phirm for the latter. You don’t need any hardware, beyond a car that is in good, healthy condition. Make sure you’ve had a DSG service and VAQ if applicable.

Allowed in terms of what? The Octavia 5E is not approved to have any tyre size larger than 225/35R19. If you mean is it possible, then sure - as long as it’s not an AWD TDI. Most performance cars run a staggered setup. Some cars (like the RS3) even run a reverse staggered setup with 265 up front and 235 at the rear.

Zero relation between the headlight level sensor and ride height. DCC only adjusts the shocks - nothing to do with the springs or ride height. Most likely a knackered spring, although potentially a collapsed top mount and suspension issues (LCA and strut come to mind).

+1 Kopacek.

First mistake was going to Halfords. Take it somewhere else and get the new battery checked, and then coded in correctly. My parents had similar symptoms in their A3 - random no locking, horn, etc. It turned out that Halfords had somehow managed to incorrectly code the battery in.

Revo have 40% off currently - not sure if that's applicable in Egypt.

It’s the standard VAG 340mm pad, unless it’s a TDI.

I see you haven’t mentioned it, but you can get 75kg onto the roof rack, including the rack system itself. Roof bars are rated around 100kg and a Thule UpRide can do 20kg. It is quite close to the limit, but provided you can lift it up there, it’s definitely possible. I’ve had six downhill bikes on the roof of a 5 series.

I’ve no idea how I’ve never noticed this before! It’s a black sticker covering a hole in the c-pillar door shut. It’s on the drivers side (UK) but not on the other. Any ideas? Assembly hole? Cavity wax? PDR?

So they do - I've just spoken to some people and yep, rear diff on the 8V S3 and Mk7 R. Bugger. Makes me want a Cupra 300 ST even more.

My understanding is that the previous generations of cars (8Y S3, RS3, Mk8 R, etc) simply use Haldex - made by Borg Warner. The newer generation cars, IIRC, do away with this and instead use a “torque splitter”. It’s still made by BW, but once the power is sent to the back, uses clutch packs to split the power between the rear wheels. They don’t market it as Haldex, but it’s essentially the same system, with a VAQ differential at the back. I’m not sure what cars have it - I know the R, S3 and RS3 do.

Cupra R ST > Cupra 300 ST > Golf R Estate Bikes are a different ball game. Fastest I've been on is an MV Dragster RR, and that was utter insanity. Someone I know rides an M1000RR... on the road... I would say the feel of a car is far more important. The Octavia vRS is a reasonably soggy car - especially compared to something like an i30N or GTI CS. Even the normal GTI feels tighter at the back, and more composed. That said, the Octavia doesn't feel wayward or unstable, and the Golf is by no means uncomfortable on long journeys like the i30N is. They're all the same, or similar, on paper - 250bhp to 300bhp DCT hot hatches, yet they couldn't feel more different. The vRS isn't perfect, but as someone that needs a car to sit happily for thirteen hours to Scotland, it's absolutely perfect for me - whether I'm doing that drive, or hooning around the mountains once there. Personally, I like that it's a bigger car, but still retains the chuckabilty of a hatchback. Something like an S4 or whatever, defintely feels bigger. Not slower, but you are aware of that extra weight.

If you’re attempting 0-100km/h times then you’ve bought the wrong car! Plus, I think @travs may disagree on the sporty part. Yes, but the lower dogbone mount does also ruin compliance and nothing you do will stop the wheel hop. I love my car, but standing starts are never good. I think mine would be dropped by my mates R32, and that’s 100bhp down and 20 years older. I don’t think the standard vRS really has enough power for an AWD system to make a difference - standing start aside. The FWD is more engaging, and results in less drivetrain loss. I’ve had mine up against a mate’s A45s and, to be fair, wasn’t instantly dropped - which is very impressive.

They did - it's called the Superb 280. If you want and AWD vRS, it's called a Golf R Estate/Cupra ST. The LSD makes my car handle far better than it has any business to. Is it a GTI TCR? No, but for a FWD MQB saloon, it does a very good job of pretending to be a hot hatch. That being said, it's not magic - I've yet to launch my car with any success, 245ps or 350ps. Frankly, below 30mph it does struggle a bit - but that's just FWD or RWD in a nutshell.

No, it is absolutely worth doing. To cut a long story short, I currently only run a TCU tune on my car and, honestly, it's absolutely fine. I must get up to Ecotune sometime soon... Where the wool may be pulled over your eyes is for the supporting mods. For a simple remap, there is no hardware required. Many people will do an air intake and whatever else, but the truth is - there's no point. The only restrictive part of the intake (not at Stage 1) is the elbow, and that can be sorted for £100. I have an R600, but anyway. Ditto with the brakes - the stock system works very well up to 400bhp. You can't increase stopping power with 340mm discs on 225mm tyres.