OccyVRS

You need to tell the car if you are changing the battery, even if it is the exact same thing.

Then you can’t active ACC.

They didn’t notice my car was crash damaged 😂 Don’t trust a main dealer as far as you can throw them.

Oh I thought you were on about enabling TSR, which is a bit more straightforward. You’ll need the ACC controls too.

@Cairus It was a while ago. I remember we did stuff with the front camera module, instrument cluster and infotainment.

I do? I didn’t think their car ran RoadRage software though… TVS are a little more considered with their clamping pressures - any idiot can stick 20 bar onto the clutch pack and see how long they take to disintegrate. I agree with the above, however I would also add that it depends how you drive it. If you’ve got some random Superb with a BONOSS wheel retention method, and only floor it in a straight line once a week, then you’ll be absolutely fine with a flash map. If you’re sending the engine to the moon on a daily basis then I would try to get the best you can get, with a custom tune. For Stage 1, really, it’s not massively important. It’s only when you start getting to Stage 2 and above that the tune really matters. You could go for Revo, Racingline, APR, Cobb, IE or anything and be absolutely fine, I think. Frankly, if I was sending my car I’d want to invest in a DSG cooler, larger intercooler and some other bits, starting with a RARB and ending with stiffer springs.

EA888.3 2020 vRS here. I would go for a TVS TCU tune and then, personally, a custom tune for the ECU. Offerings from APR, Racingline, Revo, etc are very good, but they just can't match the work of a tune that is developed and customised for your specific engine. I'm not too sure who is available in Eygpt, so it may be that the safest bet is to use one of the former 'flash maps'. Of the two, I would probably go for Racingline - they tend to be a bit more conservative than Revo (from what I know, anyway). Something that I am keeping an eye on... https://roadrageperformance.co.uk/vag-vaq-fwd-tuning/

Yeah... that's not a 'known' or 'common' issue - that's more of a 'this is a dangerous issue, get to the bottom of it immediately' rather than seven months down the line. You can fit all manner of springs, coilovers and the like, and absolutely none will cause the car to lurch to one side. An instability is a problem, but an imbalanced instability points to something that is pretty wrong. Does the car sit evenly - are the springs seated properly? Are the top mounts done correctly? Are the drop links fitted properly, with no play? Are the ARB bushes all good - no twisting or deformation as a result of incorrect install? Something is not right on that side.

If that's a vRS then it's very impressive 😂 The 2.0 TDI claims something like 70mpg, with the 1.6 seeing upwards of 80, apparently.

That sounds like a plan. As long as you are careful with WOT, I would try a few things, speak to a few people and get some more logs before throwing money at it. These sorts of problems can have strange causes, and there's no point replacing the LPFP and other parts if a sensor, or sender, is bad.

I would change the sensor and see what happens. The DTC logged is saying there is a mismatch between the pressure commanded and the pressure recorded. I don't believe in coincidences, so I would absolutely change the sensor. I suspect the LPFP is still a bit knackered, given how the pressure drops during acceleration and then recovers, however the sensor could be at fault. That said, I would also be prepared to change the LPFP itself, and keep an eye on things. I'd certainly take it easy to be honest - the HPFP is doing a lot of work. Stick an upgraded LPFP while you're at it - can't hurt, and offers some future-proofing.

If you have to ask someone on the internet to diagnose an issue for you, then you need to take it to someone that knows what they're doing. However, that being said, I did have a go with Google Translate. We're interested in the red, orange, yellow and pink lines. Red is the LPFP pressure, orange is the HPFP pressure, yellow is the HPFP target pressure and pink is the LPFP target pressure. The HPFP seems good - orange and yellow lines are matching well. However, the LPFP looks less good. At one point, the controller is requesting 7bar of pressure, but only getting 4.34bar. At the same time, it's asking for 92% duty, which is pretty much WOT. No system should be 2.6bar below the requested pressure. The HPFP is doing a good job of hiding the problem, but it will be putting more strain on itself in the process. As you get to the top of the pull, you can see that the red line dips below the pink - the LPFP simply cannot keep up with demand. Once you lift off, and throttle falls from 75% to 25%, the LPFP pressure begins to stabilise. To me, that looks pretty indicative of a pump that can't cope. Whether that is due to the tune, a knackered LPFP, or both, remains to be seen. I am not a mechanic, and if asked to change the LPFP would get as far as taking the seats out. However, I understand a fair bit, and can read a graph. I would speak to the place that mapped the car - they will be able to suggest the next steps. That being said, I would be interested to see a WOT pull in 3rd gear or so, if you could post the logs here afterwards. The ECU can sometimes do weird things, and we don't see boost, airflow, etc.

To be honest, putting your phone on the dashboard and playing from it would probably be an upgrade. The Canton option was, by all accounts, terrible - but, again, anything is better than the standard system. Some sound proofing would go a long way.

Yes - my parents have been Audi fans, but after the treatment from the local dealer on the last car, they won’t be going back. Ditto with Porsche - how can a mistake by a Porsche main dealer technician mean the Porsche warranty isn’t valid, and that any issues are now between the dealer and you? Shame, as the 2.0 Macan was quite attractive. Pre-GPF cars are always nice… much more tuning potential, and way better sound!

Plenty of time to pick one up once they’re gone - my dad traded his R32 and S3 for a 325i Touring when I was born. It was a good car, but never had the same poke - or so I’m told. I do know that the M340i/d are pretty expensive for what they are - indeed, bar the hybrid 330e, most of the 1/2/3 series are quite overpriced. IIRC dad paid just under £30k for his 1 Series, and it’s not even a hot one. My next car, if possible, would be an S4 - but they’re just impossible to find in TFSI guise. It’s the same for all the hot Volvo estates - I think it was a V60 or something - big dad wagon with 450bhp or similar. Going approved used is always nice. I was sold an approved car that had been in an accident, so a dealer isn’t gospel, but at least it gives you someone to shout at when things go wrong. I hope you enjoy it - they’re very well put together cars, and I personally think the 43 is a sweet spot… the 63 is just too much!

Very nice. Any reason you didn’t consider an M340i? I think they’re pretty similar in terms of power and price. The C43 is a nicer package though, and a bit more grown up than the CLA45. I think you chose well though. If we move up from the R/Cupra Estate size of cars into something a bit bigger, and remember that any decent S4 is diesel, you’re pretty much left with those two cars for fast estates. Not sure about a 540i but a friend has a 640i. It shifts, but it’s not really geared up for anything aside from motorway driving. It’s got the power, but it’s a big car, and everything is just a little soggy. It’s like comparing a 330i to an Octavia vRS. They have the same performance on paper (drivetrain aside) but in reality they couldn’t be more different.

A lot of the bodywork stuff will need respraying.

Always start larger and work your way down when it comes to Torx bits. You’ll find that a T25 will loosen a T30, but it’ll knacker it in the process.

This doesn’t sound like carbon buildup to me. I don’t know that much about this side of engine maintenance, but surely if carbon buildup was to affect things enough to fail emissions, OP would be seeing a lot of other symptoms? I.E. issues with idling, fuel economy and performance?

That’s really nice! I left a note by the cabin filter in my previous car that was returned to a main dealer, warning a new owner of the crash damage, as well as the people involved at the dealership. Always check a new car, even if it’s from somewhere reputable. In this case though, it sounds like the buyer will be getting a well-loved car. Wish you all the best with the Tiguan, and hope to see you around - it is, after all, a Karoq!

Is it a 230 or a 245? I’m assuming the latter, but always good to ask. Rear pad part number for 310x22mm appear as - 1K0 698 451 A/B/E/F/K/M 4F0 698 451 A/B/J

Potentially just the new parts settling. These cars do like to throw out their rear alignment.

What he said. The only thing not adjustable, really, is the caster.

After two years of ownership, I've finally got round to using the MySkoda app. I've got a very late Mk3.5 (Jan 2020 build) and it has all of the features I wanted - mainly, I just wanted it to check the car was locked, as someone didn't spec folding mirrors. Anyway. It was bit of a pain to get it working inside the car, and it's raised a question about connectivity in the car. The car has WLAN, a wireless hotspot and then the SOS/service/information call button. The hotspot is a hotspot - pretty pointless unless you have a SIM in the car. My understanding is that the WLAN requires either a standalone SIM, or to be connected to your phone? In other words, without being connected to your phone, or having a separate SIM, the infotainment system in the car has no connection to the internet - shows by the red globe icon? Does this mean that the SOS/etc buttons work on a separate system, with the MySkoda app also utilising this? I know some part of the system has to be 3G, so I'm just trying to work out if I might have any problems down the line with connectivity. I'm just curious, as it seems strange that they would have two separate systems, with the infotainment side of things only needing connectivity for setup, store and traffic/map updates? I don't know why I didn't use the app sooner. I was always resistant to it, but after using the MyBMW for a few weeks, I decided to make the jump. Okay, I can't start my car with the phone like I can in the BMW, but it's close enough.

Over a year ago, I noticed that the underseal was peeling from the offside front jacking point on the car. I've not really had a chance to get round to sorting it, until now - I've got some free time, and figured I should finally redo it. Upon inspection, the fix is as expected - wire brush, rust converter and then redo the paint/underseal. The issue is, the offside rear is a fair bit worse. While the front has just been lifted with the emergency jack a few too many times, the rear has been lifted with the wrong/no pad/in the wrong place. It's bent the pinch weld a bit, in two places. I'd like to get it sorted properly, but heating and tapping it back into line is a bit out of my comfort zone. The question is, where should I go? I'm thinking a bodyshop, as it isn't that severe, but perhaps a specific underseal or rust place would be worth a look too? As for finding a bodyshop, I'm planning on just emailing a few BMW/Audi/VW approved places near me. Thanks ^rear ^front