OccyVRS

There should be a search function at the top of your page.

What’s the point of this post? Are you concerned it’s not WBAC but a scam? Are you unhappy with the valuation?

If you need any service work while under warranty, visit Meadens in Brockenhurst. If you need anything out of warranty, visit VAS Works in Poole. Don’t bother with Snows or Richmond (whichever the one is in Botley).

I understand that, but it just seems like a slightly pointless exercise - unless for some reason you already have paint matched A4 side skirts. There are options that require no modification, headache and hassle to fit!

The A4 is longer - it’s only a bit longer than the Octavia in total length, but the wheelbase is a good 10cm longer. All of this aside, am I missing something? Why are we trying to fit OEM A4 sideskirts to a Skoda Octavia? There are options out there that are designed to fit the car. Sure, you can do it, but if you try hard enough, you can also fit 22” 11J Vossen wheels while you’re at it.

What he said ^ You accepted the terms at the point of sale. I’m not saying you don’t have an argument, but I highly, highly doubt they’re going to take the car back because of a missing key. Have you contacted them? That’s probably what I would do. It’s easier for them to sort a problem when they know they have one to fix.

What he said. Also, instead of doing a bodge, what's wrong with Maxton or Reiger?

Or, if you fancy anything else, Kopacek. They are genuine badges, with various finishes to suit. They are a standard size for the Fabia, but not across all models, so you’ll need to make sure it’s for the Fabia. www.skoda-parts.com are very good - the UK representative, Jan, is extremely helpful, if you do need any assistance with finding the correct part.

Factory. It’s pretty crap to be honest - gets brittle and starts to peel. It’s worst on the jacking points if someone has ever used an emergency jack, or one with the incorrect pad. For the most part, it does the job well enough.

Discs definitely do warp, but to do that on a TDI Octavia you would have to be descending a switchback on Everest. My money is on uneven pad material - is it during gentle braking, hard braking, or both? Have you gotten up to speed and sat on the brakes a few times?

Do you mean PPF, or actual underseal?

Kopacek.

His has the pop-out style ones - I think it’s a 5dr, but could be a 3dr. Either way, they’re a bit crap and aren’t the best moisture barrier I’ve ever seen. Aside from that, no complaints. Skoda Citigo, VW Up! or SEAT Mii, all perfectly good little cars.

My mate has one. The rear window seals are a bit dodgy, but aside from that it’s a perfectly good little car. MOT history also isn’t everything - I’ve had two previous cars that turned out to be lemons, both with pristine MOT histories going back 6 and 8 years respectively.

Yes, but with the way I drive, that would mean rotating every 1,000 miles. I’m not paid enough to do that!

These cars are generally EFB or EFB+. AGM batteries are often only in more expensive, or larger cars (with larger engines that need to be turned over). The SOS unit won’t be a paralytic draw. I suspect the battery is knackered - mine went after three years. I’m very kind to it now and regularly charge it. Get it drop tested at a local garage - don’t bother with Halfords, they’re most often a bunch of clowns, with increasingly fewer exceptions.

Or, as everyone around us (London) does, just install some bollards if the car is worth keeping. My car lives in the garage so theft isn’t really a concern for me. We have other cars on the driveway, etc, but if someone wants them, they’re welcome to them - that’s what insurance is for. One of them wears a steering lock, and the keys are put in faraday pouches. Aside from that, we’ve done all we can realistically do.

It’s also worth saying, regarding tyre rotation, that this isn’t always possible. My Octavia has standard geometry, but even then, the front camber (at least with the driving it sees) has a reasonably significant impact on tyre wear patterns. I wouldn’t put my fronts on the back. I’ll be getting two new rear soon, and those tyres will be going on the front. The front will be binned. There is a good 4-5mm on the outside shoulder, but I’m below 3mm on the inside shoulder. I’ll probably run them until autumn as the car doesn’t really go anywhere at the moment, and it’s nice and dry.

You can also repair scuff marks with heat, but I would do some research before attempting this - it’s very easy to overdo!

Literally anything would be more useful than this. If we’re talking about the subframe bolts, note that these are stretch bolts and should really be changed.

We have the same in the UK market - it’s a non-cost option. My car has it ticked. I personally wouldn’t bother ticking it - one more thing to go wrong (as I’ve just found out) and the only time I use it is during slow traffic in heavy rain. I’m currently deciding whether to get a new motor or just delete it. Still not sure!

What he said ^ I wouldn’t bother doing it every 5k - it’s not remotely a performance engine and with newer oils, you get a fair bit longer before degradation. I just use the standard C5 0W-20 in mine. I spent a fair while thinking about swapping to 0W-30, before realising it didn’t really matter and I wasn’t really bothered. As long as you’re using decent oil (Millers, Castrol, OE, whatever), you’ll be fine. Opie Oils has some good information.

Photo, please. I’ve had the front one off on my Octavia and Ibiza - I think I know the part you’re referring to. You need to remove mirror surround first, then the panel, and then the interior light panel. Be very careful and slow with it all. You do not want to damage any of the SOS wires.

I wouldn’t worry about where you get them from. If I can be bothered, I’ll get mine from ECP or online, but only because the specific low profile sedan rear wiper is hard to find. I’ve always used Bosch, but Valero are fine too (which are what OE ones are). You might find that the smearing is due to contaminants on the glass. The easiest thing to do would be to use some glass cleaner (or IPA, anything like that) on the windscreen before using the wipers. Perfectly clean glass doesn’t need anything on it for water to come off perfectly - and on a brand new windscreen, there shouldn’t be any streaking or issues @travs

He’s a perfectionist 😉