OccyVRS
FREEDOMLite
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Everything posted by OccyVRS
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From VWHub
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This is from VWHub.
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We can find you a crashed S3 and get the subframe from that. Don't forget to change your signature - standard rear pads, RS3 brake ducts, Rieger rear diffuser, the new droplinks/LCAs/FARB and, of course, the modified helicoil gearbox casing.
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Cairus is the person I'd tag to ask about any electrical issues, or DTCs. Seemingly while it's normally white for a 230 and red for a 245, there are exceptions. A definitive answer will be found on the rear axle - vented, or solid. I wouldn't say it's a bargain, but provided everything checks out, that's absolutely on the cheaper end of the market, IMO. In reality, there isn't much of a price difference between the 245 and 230 (or, indeed, the GTI and GTI PP) /4/5. Wait and see what codes are produced. It's entirely possible, but I'd be very suprised if someone can't fit two jubilee clips and a bit of corrugated pipe.
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@Cairus any ideas? I've had issues with the infotainment systems in all my cars. The Leon would literally freeze up in the winter, the Octavia needs a reboot every few days, CarPlay randomly freezes with some kinda red/white flash thing, and the system in the BMW constantly stutters the audio coming out of the £1600 option HK system. Best solution? Phone mount and a bluetooth speaker.
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Following. Nothing major as I check my nuts (and bolts) regularly, but still worth knowing. I'll ask around with my main dealer friends.
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Sorry - read this last night and then got sidetracked. Please let me know if I've missed anyting. A FL Octavia vRS 230 does not have the VAQ diff. The easiest and most foolproof way to check is to confirm that the interior stitching is white, and that you have solid rear brake discs (which will be 272mm), rather than vented (310mm)? Did you get a good deal? How much did you pay, and what is the mileage? I'd normally avoid buying from Cinch as the majority of their stuff is part-ex/leasure return stock obtained from BCA and WBAC (their parent company). If it's a good deal, however, then that's a different story, provided you know what you're buying. An EPC light can mean a million things. In the simplest form, it means the car has detected a fault with the throttle, engine management or the electronic system. The first step is to see what DTCs have been thrown. I doubt it's the battery, given your description of events. My money would be on an ignition coil having an issue under load, a boost issue, or potentially a fuelling issue. At high RPM (above 5k) these cars can also suffer with oil pressure problems. Reading everything, it does potentially indicate a car that hasn't been cared for that well. Two cut tyres, one over-worn and one being the incorrect size... none of these are good things! The oil seperator is interesting though, as that's part of the PCV system that is a) known to be an issue and b) could be relevant to the EPC light. The boost pipe is also intersting, see my above point on a boost issue. I'm a bit confused about the first point on their list... leaking engine oil, so the water pump/therm housing was replaced? Eh? For context, these engines, along with many, many more, have a plastic housing on the thermostat/water pump. Over time, and many heat cycles, this housing becomes weak, cracks and leaks coolant. I think my car (a very tidy 2020 on 40k miles) may have this issue developing. Okay, sure, the housing is right next to the oil filter, etc, but there's no relation. I think the car had a coolant leak (hence the new pump) and an oil leak (hence the new VVT seals and timing cover). What would I do? That's a tricky one. I purchased my car as part of an agreement with a main SEAT/Skoda/CUPRA dealer as a replacement for a previous car they sold me with hidden crash damage. I wouldn't trust them as far as I could throw them, and checked everything myself, before having my mechanic tear the car apart too. Hell, I was sat on the forecourt running diagnostics and checking the specs list against the PR codes and VIN. It's good that you've done your research and checks. None of these issues are great, but they're also not terrible. Crap tyres, leaky shock, knackered water pump and some dinged body panels are par for the course on an eight year old Skoda. I would see what they say about the cause of the EPC light, and go from there.
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Unless it's a hybrid, it should be 340/310. It'll be 340 up front regardless, and the 310 are vented, while the 272 are solid. Easy.
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The vRS 245 is a GTI PP, so in addition to the DSG (DQ250 at 40k, DQ381 apparently 80k, but realistically 40k too), the LSD will need to have been serviced too (every 30k).
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As with everything, if you know what you’re buying, you’re probably going to get a great deal. If you don’t, then sometimes it’s best to err on the side of caution. As said, the same factory can product different qualities (and, often, you’ll find that the lower quality items end up as different brands - take Hisense and LG, for example). @Cairus I meant to tag you, but clearly don’t seem to have managed it!
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I thought all the Haldex AWD stuff was made in Sweden, Hungary (and Mexico)? There are lots of things I would buy Chinese-copies of. Body panels, exhaust components and other such things. There are only one or two factories that make carbon Golf bonnets, for example, so whether you pay £300 on AliExpress or £3000 from ECS, it'll be the same item. A safety critical, mechanical item, with no background, such as a differential though... The only such item I've seen with any success are the BONOSS bolts @travs uses. They're actually a pretty nice item, with rolled threads and (some) proof of being TUV tested.
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It'll be interesting to see what the cause of the DTCs is - @travs was fairly rigorous with the mallet, but I will be suprised if one glancing blow onto the dust shield or knuckle would knacker an ABS sensor. In all fairness, it was a joke of a day. Absolutely nothing played ball, and everything required three hands and a lot of "well, what if we...". Knackering the thread was disappointing, but by 10pm I think we were both pretty tired. Certainly, it's been the worst day of ratcheting since getting the BMW stuck in neutral after triggering an airbag failure the day before a fourteen-hour drive. I don't understand why VW would fit external corrosion-prone components with small triple square fixings - absolutely useless. Bear in mind, too, that the car isn't exactly old, or that high mileage. Sure, we aren't mechanics, but with decent capability and the correct tools, it should have taken less than four hours to do two rear droplinks. Quite why one side required the weight of the car to push the bushing in, while the other just popped in, we shall never know. Oh, and for those wondering - yes, you can drive a mile or two with the locking wheel bolt key fitted to the wheel ;)
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Cause aside, make sure to try and dry the carpets every day. Stick some dehumidifier bags in there, and even consider pulling the carpets/underlay. The problem is temporary, but any mould and mildew will be permanent.
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@victor123 It's not ideal, but this is absolutely something you can sort yourself. You know what equipment you have and roughly what you touched, so you should be able to work out what doesn't belong where. @Alasdair1 is correct, however a lot of empty slots do still have contacts in them, and some are even hot - I know this, as that's how I powered my dashcam. This should help you https://www.startmycar.com/gb/skoda/octavia/info/fusebox/2019#anchorfusebox1 If the car isn't starting, there are only a few things that will cause that.
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Hey All, I've been down this road before, but am trying it slightly differently this time! I've started a Skoda group on WhatsApp. There's only 20 of us or so currently, but I'm looking to expand. We're from all over Europe (UK, Poland, Germany, Cz, Serbia, etc), and the group is really just to make friends with cool Skoda people! A meet(s) might come of it, but for the moment we're interested in making new friends, talking and having fun. I've no idea if it will interest anyone on here, but if it does, please drop a reply below, or send me a PM and I can add you. Occy
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Can’t comment on him, but I travel over an hour to get to my usual service place. I pass about three dealers on the way!
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Find a decent VAG Indie. I wouldn't trust a dealer as far as I can throw them. I've been sold a crash-damaged car, and lied to more times than I can count. You're paying more money for garbage!
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The only person a locking wheel nut/bolt stops, is you. I had a rounded key on my first car, and sorted the issue with a blank socket and a mallet. I've kept the lockers on all cars since, as the wheels don't come off very regularly, but different designs have varying levels of usability. Usually, the BMW/VAG ones are pretty good - but the two-piece design, like on Ford, are horrendous.
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Yum… stickers for my tool box
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To be fair, you’d be able to check the oil on any flat surface, be it the cargo hold of a 747 or the deck of an aircraft carrier.
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What he said ^ Everything has been superseded by G12 Evo although, to be fair, I would personally just use what the car left the factory with, unless it’s a G13 car. If you Google it, there is a chart for mixing that shows what you can, and can’t, mix together.
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Just be careful with the subframe alignment kit. Everything is designed to move a little bit, so that in a low-speed smash, a lot of the important stuff is protected. By sticking in those collars, you’re reducing any flex or wiggle room that oval holes and the like introduce, transferring the full energy of an accident to the subframe and more critical components. You’ll also find that, unless the car is brand new and has never been into a pothole, you will need the adjustment to get the car aligned! My car has never been in any sort of incident beyond a wheel kerbing, but without replacing half the steering and suspension system, it wouldn’t align properly were the subframe to be locked in place.
