OccyVRS

Plenty of fish in the sea.

I think they ran out of money halfway through the restoration/rebuild. IIRC it was the bit on the side that collapsed - you can see on Google Maps the damage, followed by the hand-finished repair. It's a shame - the building was very old :(

In the dry, low tread is actually better! It's in the wet that you have a problem...

Do you mean the one on the triangular grass green on the hill? Grasshopper on the Green I think. As far as I know it’s still open - I don’t live at home anymore, but it can’t have been more than 6 months since I was last through Westerham! If you mean the larger Westerham Inn out on the main road, then IIRC that had a structural collapse a few years ago, and the owners ran out of money to fix it. Not sure what’s happened to it, but I think it’s in the same state since 2021.

Speaking from experience, get some bin bags and stuff them over the discs/calipers anyway. Don’t ask😆

Drop a join in the group then, be great to have you! I spent a while working between Biggin Hill/Westerham, lots of classic cars on the hill there. Definitely thinking scenery, food, maybe even a BBQ - as opposed to anything on an industrial estate at 2am!

Wants a vRS then - stiffer springs to negate the weight in the back. The other difference is that, in terms of airports and suitcases, having the estate gives you a higher load space to stack bags. It’s the one thing for mine - I don’t care, but the last two foot of boot isn’t that high.

I don’t know how I missed that, apologies! I had it set to “estate” on AutoTrader, so I didn’t check. Mind you though, the hatch is no cheaper so the comparison still stands. @travs I bought a vRS hatch after finding out it really was a hatch! The only reason I can see for getting the estate is adults in the back (barely any difference IIRC) and roof rails. I’m a mountain biker so sometimes regret not getting a car with rails, but aside from that the hatch is as practical as the estate.

You’re in the UK aren’t you? We aren’t in the EU anymore! By few miles I assume because it’s a special car, etc, rather than being driven around town only? EBC BrakesECE Regulation 90 – What’s it All About?New titanium shims are a must-have for high-performance braking.

Welcome! This might be of interest to you - a fair few of us local to you.

Completely, but as I was attempting to say a few posts ago, I would hope that most people would consider what the police say is safest. Interesting you mention about puncture repairs - as long as it is a decent quality permanent repair, then it is just as strong as the rest of the tyre. Certainly, this has nothing to do with remaining tread depth, internal soundness (within reason), or any of the issues you might find in a part-worn. What about the third option to your question, buying a new part-worn tyre? The possibilities are endless, but I know what I would recommend to any member of the public!

I thought the international language of love was USD🤣

I assume you're on about this one here? For £1,000 less there is this one (although no details yet) 20,000 miles fresher, or for the same miles this one for £2,500 less. At 80k you ideally want the Haldex/DSG service info. That being said, I would assume virtually every VAG independent that would do a DSG/4x4 service would have updated the service records digitally... is there nothing there?

Interesting they don't say the gauze needs doing on the pump - everywhere I've spoken to regarding my diff service has listed that right underneath changing the oil. Sounds like its the same as the DSG filter then...

For someone (you) that joined the forum when I (Occy) was six years old, I (Occy) rather hoped for something more constructive (from you). I apologise - I see your location now. I should have been less eloquent and more straightforward in my humour.

I meant more in terms of being on the force - although I have also done a fair bit of racing. I'm not beholden to a brand at all - nothing wrong with budget tyres (I run Rainsport 5s on another car and have for several years). My issue is with the 'gamble' of part-worn tyres, as OP commented on with those Michelins. I fear I'm repeating myself. TLDR - speaking from my experience and position, I do not think part-worn tyres are worth the potential gamble, and therefore could not recommend them to anyone on a public form.

@J.R. if you read it again, with your glasses on, you might find that I was referring to you, rather than me. @Ootohere My mistake - I was simply trying to figure out if OP going down the previous service history (re intervals) was worth it or not. From what you're saying, it isn't and the only thing that really matters, history wise, is if Skoda serviced the diff at POS 18 months ago.

But you joined the forum in 2007, so that doesn't make sense...? I don't think even you know what you are talking about - hijacking yet another thread with your hypocrisy and repeating the same question for a third time!

Although this extended warranty is only the 12 month approved used warranty (which OP is out of)?

If you'd read my post carefully, you might realise I'm speaking from such a position... I'm very happy being judgemental, when I am in a position to do so. I'd love to know your vast knowledge of this topic, beyond your own limited experience, because of course you know significantly more than I do about it! It's not as though I've any first hand experience, training or otherwise.

And this is funny because...? I know this is the internet, but for someone that joined this forum when I was six years old, I rather hoped for something more constructive!

Can't help with specific part numbers, but the DS2500 pads on my vRS have been the best pads I've used out of EBC, Pagid and OE. I haven't tried Mintex - they're next.

The first thing I would say is not to worry - there will be a solution! You aren't the first to go through something like this, and you won't be the last. I haven't dealt with this exact scenario, but I have dealt with a main dealer selling me a crash damaged car. Out of interest, which Skoda is this? I see you're West Sussex - not too far from the lot that sold me that car. As above, there will be digital service records. Any independent can also access these records. IIRC the 4x4 Haldex system is the same as the LSD in vRS cars - the service interval called for is 20,000 miles. Someone else will know for sure, but I think I'm correct in saying that all Skoda parts come with a 2 year warranty. Of course, a service isn't exactly a part, but I think there would be an argument that if the diff was inspected and serviced before sale (it should have been), then it blowing up now some 8,000 miles before the service interval isn't anything to do with you. The first thing you need to do is access this service history. If the correct intervals were not adhered to, at any point in the vehicles life, then I believe you have a case against the dealer. If the intervals were stuck to, and it was serviced before you bought the car, then I still think you have an argument. Of course, it's not black and white. Simply put, you are outside of the used warranty period by 8 months. In theory, the dealership can tell you where to go (and it sounds like they have). I'd covered 25,000 miles in the 28 months I owned my car. I was prepared to do all sorts (I still did, after I'd picked up my vRS and made them return it to factory condition), but I only had to suggest going down that route and suddenly they were on the same page as I was. Okay, in my case the sales guy was absolutely fantastic (I still owe him), but my point is that dealerships have insurance for this sort of thing. I know for a fact my car was sold for 50p at auction (and appeared at a used dealer in West Sussex for £11,500 six months later, with no repair done). First step is the service history, and report back here. Depending on what it says, there are various routes to go down (from Skoda UK, independent reports, motor ombudsman or even legal paths). It's maybe not going to be the easiest process in the world, but I honestly believe you will be able to get a satisfactory solution here.

Do you mean the silver coloured strip (with the led lighting strip)? If so, this is a plastiwelded piece (been there, done that, thanks dealer for scratching mine). The only removable bits on the door card are the switches, switch cover thingy on the passenger side, and the outside of the grab handle. Everything is else is part of the door card. What @varaderoguy is suggesting is to remove the entire card (it's a couple of fixings) and see if it's anything behind there. It could be the lighting strip is a bit loose, etc. It's not difficult to do, however if it's your first time then I would exercise some caution - they come off much easier than they go back on!

For what it's worth, I had this issue on a 2013 Focus. Okay, I had the key, but it was almost completely rounded out. I managed to get one nut off before it failed, and took it down to the local (large) Ford dealer, who quickly confirmed there were hundreds of patterns and that they could order one in a month or two. Quick pit stop to ECP on the way home, one blank socket and a mallet later, and I had the remaining three nuts off in about 25 seconds each. Nobody steals wheels anymore. When did you last see a car on bricks? All locking wheel bolts do is cause issues for you, the owner of the car. I'm not saying I'd get rid of the ones on my vRS, but if there was an issue with them, I wouldn't hesitate to pull them off. I'm not sure how VAG works, but as suggested I would try and get some help from a supplier - it doesn't hurt to ask. Failing that, it's definitely not a £500 job to remove them, unless your wheels are special (they do look quite deep, to be fair).