Sampolainen

Well as long as we're on the subject of brakes... How about bigger brakes for the 2.0l petrol engines? IIRC they're 280mm as standard, with FSIII callipers. Any chance I could just slap on the same 312mm rotors?

Mines an early 2001 model, had it for 2 years now and done 40K Km on it. Total Km just came up to 200000 and she's still very nice apart from a few minor things but those aren't really worth mentioning. Very reliable car all in all.

Well I guess some might consider it a special tool but all that is needed is a tool such as this http://www.allproducts.com/manufacture97/yuyaojindu/product2.jpg The joint makes it a lot easier to use. Correct size, can't remember what it was... perhaps 16mm?

I found out that some relays are under the steering wheel. Does anybody have a list of what does which one control? Apparenty 'relay 109' is the main relay... And any info on the fuse# for the fan? This I couldn't find out yet. It's got to have a fuse, right? It should consume quite a lot of power to run it What controls the fan spinning? Does it have an independent module built in and a sensor that connects to watertemp? Or is it just a dumb fan that gets turned on by some electronics? Any info/tips greatly appreciated!

I just arrived home from work. Around 15km on the highway, first I did around 5km in 3rd gear about 95kmh. Then I increased speed to 115kmh and nearly 5000rpm and like I guessed, no change in temperature . This would rule out waterpump failure, yes? Besidees, it shouldn't fail quite yet, only done 35000km on it.

I arrived at my parking lot the other day and stepped out of the car, left the engine running, no A/C. I had the driver's door open and as I was conducting my business I heard the notice gong go off. I thought it was the low gas warning since it was running low already and so didn't pay any attion to it. A few moments later the gong sound came again, this time continuous. :confused: I hadn't heard that before so I jumped in the car to see what's it about and noticed the lit temperature warning and the temp. meter almost reaching the red zone. I turned the heat up and blower to the max and the temp gauge stopped rising. I noticed there was no fan noise when obviously there should've been so I took off and sure enough, as soon as I had driven around 400m @ 60kmh temp gauge back to 90 and all was well. I gather that since the temp dropped down right after I started moving the thermostat should work, right? Also, hot air is coming from the heater if needed. No other problems than overheating after some time standing still with engine running. I've tried to search the forum for info on cooling fans but haven't found a lot so it doesn't seem to be a common failure point. I'll gun it this morning going home from work so I get to see if high speed highway cruising will lift the temp. On a side note, the smaller AC fan does work as I tested it, even without the engine running if I push the AC button the fan turns on. Should the larger fan turn on as well? As I did some tests I noticed that after the temp rises above 90c the car automatically turns off the AC, the smaller fan still keeps running though. How should I start checking what has failed and where? I already checked all the fuses on the drivers side panel and the three that are with the battery. Are there any more? And also it's not mentioned in the manual which fuse if for the radiator fan. Where can I find the relays? I appreciate any help you guys can give Edit: I've changed the temperature sender about 3 months ago, could this have had an effect like this? Also, the larger fan rotates freely, no jamming.

Like I said, in the water tank. I have 2 motors there, one for the windscreen and the other for headlights. Ofcourse it could be that yours is different

Do you mean the washer pump motor? Mine's in the watertank itself. I don't know about removing it, I just disconnected the leads when I removed the washer jets altogether.

I probably got this problem. Is there a common fix for it or do I just take the whole assembly apart, clean it and put it back together?

Any news on this fault getting fixed? It's always interesting to read these stories, there's stuff to learn although at the expense of others :rotz:

Mine is doing this as well. I'm sure it won't be covered under warranty over here. Perhaps the part can be changed? Anyone happen to have a part number handy ?

I believe that the rear lights are a direct replacement. Front lights however also require the new bumper. I don't know it those are otherwise just snap-on replacements but I do know it can be done, I know one car that has had this done to it. Edit: To quote KenONeill from another thread: "Main things that changed that you'd notice are front and rear bumpers, wings and lights. So to make a pre-facelift car look post facelift you'd need new bumpers, all exterior lights, front wings, bonnet and grilles (all 4)." Well, that pretty much sums it up then...

I voted no, 2001 LHD, 2.0 engine AQY

Front wheel bearing maybe?

Drain from satnav and phone charger is so little it doesnt really matter. Unless ofcourse you leave your car unattended for a perioid of time it might drain the battery. I'm guessing a phonecharger and satnav (both idle) would be around 300mA max. With a number like that its around 8days before the battery is empty. I may be wrong though

ARB Bushes indeed most probably. Radiator mounts are easy to check too

Yea it's probably gonna be pretty expensive at the dealer. I had mine done in an independent garage with parts I had sourced my self. Probably saved 50%. Edit: For a front wheel bearing I paid 34€ and it was ~1h job. So total was something around 85€.

Yes but depending on how it's gone, it might not wiggle at all. Mine didn't and it was still shot pretty well.

Is the sound coming from the front or the rear of the car? Which side? It might be easier to find out if you get a friend and he gets in the back and tries to locate the sound. Does the sound change during acceleration/braking? Does slight veering to left/right change it? Really high pitched sound or slightly lower?

Yeah I agree. This is down right silly what the chap has done Had his first post been along the lines of "sorry I dont think its our fault but we'll help" everybody would've been happy. I remember reading a poll about customer service. The most customer satisfaction was achieved from situations just like this. Something went wrong, the business took charge and rectified the problem and the customer was happy. Well, I guess in this case the customer was not very happy.

Hehe I agree especially if it's the sedan version, definately much better without rear wiper

This is very interesting, I'm waiting to see them pictures and read that guide. I especially like the quicker steering.

Even if there is no play, it might still be the bearing. Mine had no play and bearing was past its prime. Changed it, noise gone.

I disagree. When it's done properly nothing will break. Ofcourse it will require stronger parts in the engine but it's not like you can just slab a huge turbo charger on and think that it's ok. Nitrous oxide is only a chemical way of getting more oxygen into the engine and thus allowing more fuel to be burt -> more power. Just as a turbo charger pushes more air into the engine and thus more power can be produced.

Just a suggestion since I don't know about the legal issues of where you live but how about a nitrous oxide system? You could get a decent system in your price range and it would be pretty nifty. Extra power only when you need it.