allias

Defo worth it as long they knowwht they doing. Please ask for print-out and caster reading as its getting missed out a lot and its quite important if someone drops subframe to do job like on yours.

Fsa Caster check should be done with every vehicle (even one that doesnt have it adjustable) to make sure that nothing is bent. Who does it? Everyone who cares enough or acctualy know what to do with it. Rest is to dicretion of garage. I cant imageine to align suspension with out. Its as important as camber and toe. On top of all, first place used Hunter which is farmore accurate and I would trust it more then second place which only confirm what I said before.

Hi Wagdog Sound like your mechanic did half of job. I wont be sloging him because I dont know him and Im always thinking that someone else might be doing the same thing about me/us. Your acceleration pull might be down to engine mounts. I did suggest how to check it at home on this forum few times. 8 of 10 times its a problem with "dog bone" bush as there cars seems to have more torque that those bush can handle. It will create left pull under heavy acceleration. One more thing I would like to point out that if had your console bushes replaced then most likely you need proper full alignment to do to make sure subrfame is in right place. Bolts that hold subframe have some slack and when you work on subframe there is a big chance it goes in wrong place. You are actually local to me so if you want check few reviews about ABC CAR Service on this forum. We had quite good results with finding and fixing faults on VAG suspensions.

That is true as you adjust it on steering rods on steering rck while you have tracking/alignment done.

Going back to readings: They are very, very close to eachother. To me looks like they both got very low understanding of angles on geometry and that is why second pointing wrong work that first garage did, second one is so ****ed it dont want to talk about it anymore. First place adjusted toe but if there was no wear on tyres and wheel was straight then adjustment wasnt needed. Second place have different camber readings which might be down to type of machine of fact how heads have been mounted on wheels. They adjusted toe to 0.18' which I think with your camber will cause slight wear on outside edges within next 2000-5000 miles. With more speed on turns you might feel "like rubbing" from tyres. Depend on tyres it might result in sawtoothing on front tyres. I would say that if there was nothing wrong with steering wheel and driveablility was fine then they should charge you for check - not adjustment. I dont think was needed. Im not sure if you aware of it or not but your rear beam is not adjustable so they only done front tracking (not even alignment) as there was no caster reading taken which should be included on this car. Job like that is usually done by Kwik-Fit and I wouldnt pay more then £30 for job like that on old equipment. Just to add on end of it... Hard to judge them as I dont know them and I dont know what equipment they use, but I think better job was done by first place.

Good for you that you happy with look. Not my style but its you drive it and when you happy with it - that all what matter. As far as alignment I can only suggest to you to check readings like-a-like with numbers and check how much is it off between. I found when you deal with "old style machines" they tend to have slight misscalculations compering to new rigs. If in your case both use Snap-On or Hunter equipment then I would really like to see both print-outs to compare diffrences. Newer equipment will work with much bigger accurancy but it does need calibration once a while. Other thing I would like to point out - if you are checking printouts - make sure you read numbers - not "red-green" graphs as it might be missleading as there could be slight diffrences in spec between brands of machine. If you can post your readouts - please do so, so we could give you "third " opinion.

"You are going right direction but I dont think you know your destination" :p If tyre like the one we discuss is Temperature A then it will have quite good temperature resistance and will only heats-up so much to raise pressure from 40 to 50 PSI only while racing or driving with speed over 120mph. That create questions? 1. How often do you race with your car? 2. Do you drive lots of miles over speeding over 100mph? If so then 40PSI will be to high. If you use your 19inch wheels for "blink" then I doubt it you will risk them on English pot-holes. For daily driving even at temperature 30 Celcius deg with speed 70mph you will hardly go over extra 5PSI. Why ~40PSI? Yes you right sidewall is stronger but edges of tyres are the same. If you will check brand new tyre tread you will find 8mm across ~70% of tread. On edges you will find more like 3-6mm (depend on size and brand). How long do you think will take to wear down part or tyre that has about 50-70% less of tread? On top of that - 235 vs 215 in size of tyre? With load on tyre it will require different conditions to make tread to touch road across entire rim. This is why its almost impossible to tell what you should run. You need to find your own pressure by "reading tyre". Bigger rims require more pressure - that is why it was ok to use 29PSI on 14inch and 32 on 15ich wheels. Below 35PSI on 18inch tyres? Bad idea - trust me on that. 42PSI on 19inch? Dont know, better check if it works for you. Play up or down 2-4 PSI and it will make a difference. It will change driving comfort, MPG, steering responce, tyre wear and overall handling. Start somewhere and check it again after 200-500 miles. That is best way. PS. Do me a favour and can you check TEMPERATURE TREADWEAR & TRACTION of your tyres and load index so it will be easier for me to know what tyre we are dealing with.

So what... If you would know how many Ihave done when they were all in green and after adjustment customers felt difference. Its not about setting in green but to understand why you have to change it. I know its different topic but I want to change this myth... If you want I can set angles in red and belive me it will be all better to drive when its "all in green". :p Are you anywhere close Leeds so I could check it for you?

Im not supprised. Many times drop of 3-5PSI in one tyre will effect mpg. Thats why Ialways stress about tyre condition and tyres pressure. It save you loads of £££ on longer run when you maintain it properly.

Depend on tyre and current handling but I would look for something between 37 and 42 PSI - maybe higher with really soft rubber. If you have soft tyres and decide to go lower then you risking damaging sidewall or excesive wear on side/sides. With sizes bigger then 18 you can forget about manufactures recommandations - its useless.

Have suspension checked again and make sure you got no play in bushes or ball joints. Then get tracking/alignment with print out and I will analize it for you. Other then that its hard to give you advice online.

Fuel door pressure is just a guideline. You need to find one that will suit you. From Expierience I would say dont go below 32PSI if you dont want ruinyour tyres. With tyres like yours I would leave at what you got and check wear in few k miles. If you need to change it - go 2-3 psi higher or lower and see results. I doubt it you will ever have any problems while riding on 35PSI even with just you as a driver alone.

From your description sounds like engine mounts are loose or damaged. I would get extra person to "try rock our engine with hand brake" and you look for any movement on engine. If you notice play bigger then 1-2cm then you found your problem. Check all mounts because its hard to diagnose which one is faulty the internet. If you dont know how to "rock it", then pull h/b and let your friend to drive off with open bonnet. You just need to put some torque on engine to see it moving. Try in 1st and reverse.

Despite opinion alignment does effect a lot aspects of your plesure of driving.

It turns out it was well messed up. Front was almost perfect. Rear had 2deg negetive camber and 0 toe which is a killer for daily driving car. No supprice rear tyres where worn down to cords. BTW tyres looked much worst then on those pictures. Really lucky those didnt poped while driving. Changed rear camber from -2deg to -1.2(-1.3) and felt much different. I dont want to speak on behalf of Dan but I thin it really needed this adjustment long time ago.

Mikey VRS. I work for ABC CAR Service and you easly can find few reviews here about our work. We are in Leeds, Pudsey. DBT85 - front wheels is just toe or additional cradle shifting but noone will do it and I doubt it you will need it at this age. Rear Suspension will have camber and toe adjustment. All others will require "different approach" if needed.

Would you like to book in? :p hehe

Rear camber can be adjusted on new Octavia's. Other then that toe adjustment on front and rear.

Either to much toe out or to much negetive camber. Good to see those pics.

Yes you will need doing it again. As far as spec it might slightly change.

No. First of all is to make sure camber is symetrical on both sides. Then you need to set toe acordingly to amount to neg camber. This is why few places make a mistake. Put gauges on, set it "within green" and we are great. No that is wrong. You need to understand how to set it with lowered vehicle. Read tyres condition and see what works for your setup. Many times angles being out of spec doesnt mean its wrong. Its a case of making it individual for vehicle - specialy with lowered setup.

Low camber and factory toe would create wear like this. You need someone who knows what to do with lowered suspension.

Yes. Ive seen many VAG with engine/gearbox mounts causing wondering on road - mostly under acceleration. Do you have alignment print out?

No problem